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THE  LIBRARY 
OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


^  ^^z  < 


EUROPEAN   LIFE   AND   MANNERS; 


FAMILIAR    LETTERS    TO   FRIENDS. 


VOL.    1. 


EUROPEAN    LIFE  AND  MANNERS; 


FAMILIAR  LETTERS  TO  FRIENDS. 


By  henry  COLMAN, 


AUTHOR  OF  EUROPEAN  AGRrCULTURE,  AND  THE  AGRICULTURE  OF  FRANCE, 
BELGIUM,  HOLLAND,  AND  SWITZERLAND. 


IN     TWO     VOLUMES. 


VOL.  I. 


BOSTON: 
CHARLES   C.   LITTLE   AND  JAMES    BROWN. 

LONDON: 
JOHN    PETHERHAM,    94,    HIGH    HOLBORN. 

1849. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1849, 

By  Henry  Colman, 

as  Author,  in  the  office  of  the  Clerk  of  the  District  Court  of  the  District  of 

Massachusetts. 


CAMBKIDGE  : 
PRINTED   BY   BOLLES  AND   HOUGHTON. 


XI 
v./ 


THESE    VOLUMES 
ARE  KESPECTFUI.LY  INSCRIBED  TO 

THE   RIGHT    HONORABLE   LADY   A.    NOEL    BYRON, 

AS  A   MEAIORIAL  OF  THE  PUREST  ESTEEM    AND  REVERENCE 

FOR  THAT  WHICH   IS  MOST  EXCELLENT   IN  MIND   AND   CHARACTER, 

MOST  CLEAR  IN   ITS  PERCEPTIONS  OF  TRUTH, 

AND   MOST  ACTIVE  AND   FAITHFUL  IN  THE   PERFORMANCE  OF  DUTY  ; 

AND   OF   A   FRIENDSHIP, 

WTIICH  HE   DEEMS  AJIONG  THE  HIGHEST  HONORS 

AND   FELICITIES  OF  HIS  LIFE, 

BY    THE    AUTHOR. 


iS9C15 


PREFACE, 


The  person  who  introduces  another  into  respectable 
society,  is  answerable,  in  a  high  degree,  for  the  character  of 
the  individual  whom  he  thus  presents.  The  same  respon- 
sibleness  applies  to  an  author,  who  presumes  to  offer 
his  productions  to  the  pubhc.  In  the  present  crowded 
state  of  literary  society,  when  authors  and  pubhshers 
are  daily  becoming  more  numerous,  and  Avhen  the  com- 
petition for  pubUc  hearmg  and  favor  is  full  to  excess, 
there  is  not  likely  to  be  that  exact  discrimination,  which 
would  take  place  in  a  more  sparse  condition,  and  among 
fewer  candidates.  But  this  does  not  absolve  an  author 
from  his  obhgation  to  do  his  best,  nor  from  his  responsi- 
bleness  to  an  improved  taste,  to  the  cause  of  public 
improvement  and  gratification,  and  of  good  morals. 

Under  a  sense  of  this  obligation,  I  have  great  diffidence 
in  presenting  these  volumes  to  the  public.  I  have  no 
anxiety  as  to  their  moral  tendency.     Indeed,  I  Avould  not 


Vlll  PREFACE. 

have  published  them,  had  I  not  had  the  most  entire  con- 
fidence that  they  will  be  not  merely  innocuous,  but 
salutary ;  whether  they  will  meet  the  refined  taste  of 
the  community,  and  aiford  them  a  gratification  which 
will  repay  the  trouble  of  a  perusal  —  of  this,  I  am  not 
so  certain  ;  and  an  author  is,  perhaps,  as  incompetent  to 
form  a  correct  opinion  of  his  own  productions,  as  a  partial 
parent  is  to  form  a  just  judgment  of  the  characters  of 
his  children.  The  vision  may  be  bhnded  or  perverted 
by  parental  fondness  and  natural  affection,  and,  under 
such  circumstances,  the  standard  of  right  or  excellence 
is  often  affected.  Not  only  defects  become  tolerable,  but 
faults  are  converted  into  virtues.  Having  heretofore 
experienced  much  kind  indulgence  from  the  public,  I  do 
not  approach  them  uncheered  by  hope ;  and,  while  my 
work  makes  no  claims  to  applause,  it  will,  I  trust,  be  found 
as  little  obnoxious  to  censure  ;  and,  while  it  may  not  be 
thought  even  worthy  of  the  severity  of  critics,  it  will,  at 
least,  be  sure  of  the  partiality  of  friends.  To  this  par- 
tiality these  volumes  owe  their  birth,  and,  if  they  give 
pleasure  to  my  friends,  I  shall  be  fully  satisfied. 

A  cursory  glance  at  them,  will  satisfy  any  one,  that 
these  Letters  were  not  designed  for  pubhcation.  Until  my 
return  from  Europe,  I  did  not  even  know  that  they  had 
been  preserved.  Many  friends  expressed  a  strong  wish 
to  possess  them,  and  that  is  the  reason  of  their  publication. 

I  had  proposed,  from  the  beginning,  after  the  comple- 
tion of  my  European  Agriculture,  a  graver  work  than 


PREFACE.  IX 

this,  upon  European  society,  embracing  larger  views  of 
its  politics,  religion,  education,  manners,  and  morals.  I 
have  begun  such  a  work.  I  have  collected  for  this  pur- 
pose large  stores  of  materials  ;  and,  if  my  life  and  health 
are  spared,  I  design  presently  to  give  it  to  the  public. 
In  the  meantime,  I  pul)lish  these  two  volumes,  m  order 
to  give  a  picture  of  private  and  domestic  life.  They 
relate  to  and  embrace  many  topics  that  could  not  be 
properly  introduced  into  the  work  wliich  I  design.  They 
may  be  said  to  form  a  personal  narrative  of  my  residence 
abroad,  and  further,  to  give  what  may  be  called  proof 
impressions  of  scenes,  objects,  persons,  and  places,  as 
they  passed  before  my  mind.  I  am  quite  aware  that  first 
impressions  are  not  always  to  be  trusted,  but,  m  gen- 
eral, if  they  are  more  vivid,  they  are  also  more  exact. 
If,  in  the  end,  there  should  be  found,  in  any  case,  a  wide 
discrepancy  between  the  first  judgments  and  the  truth,  it 
will  not,  I  believe  be  found  oftener  to  occur,  than  where 
we  attempt  to  modify  and  alter  these  impressions  by  much 
after-study  and  care.  I  would  not  be  thought  in  any  way 
to  recommend  hasty  and  premature  conclusions,  but  I  have 
great  respect,  in  most  cases,  excepting  where  scientific 
inquiry  is  directly  involved,  for  first  impressions.  The 
mind  is  then  more  wakeful ;  its  observations  are  more 
'distmct ;  and  it  has  no  prejudices  or  false  impressions  to 
obstruct,  pervert,  or  cloud  its  perceptions.  An  enthusi- 
astic painter,  when  first  he  attempts  to  sketch  from 
nature,  w^th  the  objects  full  before  him,  is  hkely  to  give  a 


X  PREFACE. 

trae  portrait ;  but  when,  afterwards,  in  another  situation, 
removed  from  the  objects,  he  undertakes  to  correct  this 
picture,  he  draws  generally,  not  from  Avhat  it  is,  but  from 
what  he  wishes  it  should,  or  tliinks  it  ought  to  be  ;  and, 
though  the  hncs  may  be  much  more  artistical,  and  the 
coloring  more  skilful  and  brilliant,  yet  the  likeness  is 
very  sure  to  be  gone. 

The  greatest  difficulty  in  the  publication  of  these  Let^ 
ters,  has  been,  that  they  may  be  deemed  too  personal ; 
and  my  anxiety  has  been,  lest  they  should  be  thought  to 
approach  a  violation  of  private  confidence.  I  know  few 
things  that  could  give  me  more  pain,  than  to  be  justly 
obnoxious  to  such  a  charge.  I  hope  it  will  not,  in  any 
degree,  be  found  so. 

I,  at  first,  determined  not  to  pubhsh  a  single  name,  but 
I  found  tliis  an  idle  attempt,  and  that  individuals  would 
be  traced  by  circumstances,  as  certainly  as  if  distinctly 
announced.  I  have  reported  no  conversations,  and  passed 
no  free  opinions  upon  any  persons  or  characters,  except 
public  characters;  and  upon  these  only  in  their  pubHc 
relations  and  acts;  and  though,  in  speaking  of  private 
individuals,  I  have  spoken  m  the  language  of  respect  or 
praise,  I  can  only  say  that  the  terms  are  most  general ; 
I  had  constantly  to  restrain  the  grateful  utterance  of  my 
convictions,  and  it  is  not  a  tithe  o'f  the  eulogy  which  I 
might  have  honestly  pronounced.  As  to  the  accounts 
which  I  have  given  of  the  style  of  living,  in  particular 
places,  and  among  particular  classes,  I  have  only  to  say 


TREFACE.  XI 

that  pains  were  most  kindly  taken  to  initiate  mc  into 
these  particulars ;  that  this  information  was,  though  en- 
tirely without  ostentation,  most  kindly  given  ;  that  written 
lists  of  servants,  and  written  and  pruited  rules  of  domestic 
management,  were  repeatedly  placed  in  my  hands,  with. 
a  full  and  expressed  liberty  to  use  them  as  I  pleased ; 
and  that  the  style  of  living,  though  wholly  diflFerent 
from  that  wliich  prevails  among  us,  is  everywhere  of  a 
common  type,  so  that  the  description  of  one  of  these  estab- 
lishments is,  in  the  main,  a  description  of  all.  I  know  my 
English  friends  wUl  smile  at  the  simplicity  Avith  which  I 
have  detailed  some  small  matters ;  but  they  must  live  in 
a  condition  and  organization  of  society,  totally  different 
from  then'  o-vvti,  in  order  to  understand  the  interest 
which  is  taken  on  this  side  of  the  water,  in  these  minute 
details. 

But,  after  all,  my  great  reason  for  the  various  details 
of  persons  and  places  which  I  have  given,  was,  as  seemed 
'only  just,  to  record  my  most  grateful  and  cndurmg  sense 
of  the  extraordinary  and  most  exemplary  kindness  and 
hospitality  which  I  everywhere  experienced.  This  hos- 
pitality presents,  in  English  life  and  society,  the  most 
beautiful  traits  of  character,  and  makes  one  proud  of  his 
descent  from  a  race  of  men  so  truly  noble,  so  generous, 
so  kind,  so  poUshcd,  and  so  enlightened  ;  and,  with  every 
liberal  mind,  it  cannot  fail  to  command  esteem  and 
respect.  It  must  excite  to  reciprocity,  and  to  a  generous 
emulation  in  land  offices,  as  well  of  a  public  as  of  an  indi- 


Xll  PREFACE. 

vitlual  character ;  and  this  is  the  golden  chain,  by  which 
two  great  nations,  sharing  the  same  blood,  speaking  the 
same  language,  and  allied  by  innvmierable  common  inter- 
ests, can  be  bound  indissolubly  together. 

I  make  no  apology  for  inserting  some  few  letters  in  the 
volume,  which  may  be  deemed  strictly  personal  and  pri- 
vate. I  claim  for  them,  and  they  are  not  many,  the 
indulgence  of  every  kind  reader,  as  marking  events  of 
the  deepest  interest  to  myself,  and  hkely,  as  I  am  assured 
by  many  impartial  friends,  to  have,  under  the  same  cir- 
cumstances in  which  they  were  Avritten,  —  circumstances, 
alas  !  painfully  common  to  all,  —  an  interest  with  others. 

P.  S.  In  apology  for  many  imperfections  in  the  work, 
it  is  only  proper  to  state,  that  during  its  preparation 
and  passage  through  the  press,  the  state  of  my  eyes  has 
been  such,  that  I  have  not  been  able  to  read  a  single  line  ; 
and  painful  experience  alone  can  teach  us  how  incon- 
venient it  is,  even  under  the  best  circumstances,  to  be 
obliged  to  use  another's  eyes  for  one's  own.  It  has 
brought  with  it,  however,  one  alleviation,  in  the  most 
generous  and  exemplary  kindness  of  friends,  in  proffering 
and  rendering  every  practical  aid ;  a  kindness  which  I 
desire  most  gratefully  to  acknowledge. 

Salem,  Mass.,  April,  1849. 


SECOND   roSTSCRTPJ". 


Since  the  foregoing Avas  printed,  it  has  occuncHl  to 
me  that,  in  order  to  avoid  a  very  false  impression,  the 
reader  shoukl  understand  this  is  not  intended  as  a 
full  or  continuous  narrative  of  my  residence  abroad. 
Very  far  from  it.  It  n-cords  only  a  small  portion  of 
the  kindness  shown  me.  It  contains,  in  fact,  mere 
sketches  of  particular  incidents,  circumstances,  and 
objects,  and  these  selected  from  a  large  mass  of  letters, 
under  gi-eat  disadvantage,  on  account  of  the  imperfect 
state  of  my  sight. 

I  hope,  also,  that  the  reader  will  not  fail  to  bear  in 
mind  that  these  letters  were  wholly  private,  and  never 
expected  in  this  way  to  see  the  light.  Nothing  is  said 
in  them  for  the  sake  of  effect ;  and  their  character,  as 
private  letters,  must  serve  as  an  apology  for  many  im- 
perfections. 

I  have  been  most  anxious  not  to  offend  any  rule  of 
propriety.     To  have  omitted  ovorything  personal  would 


SECOND    POSTSCKIl'l'. 

liave  destroyed  the  peculiar  interest  wliich  tliey  might 
otherwise  have;  and,  as  nothing  is  said  in  them  which 
the  most  scrupulous  would  have  hesitated  to  express 
in  any  company,  and  in  the  freest  conversation,  I 
cannot  think  any  just  cause  of  offence  will  be  given  by 
their  appearance  in  this  incidental  form.  Few  things 
would  give  me  more  pain  than  to  have  forfeited,  in  this 
respect,  in  any  degree,  the  good  will  of  my  friends. 

I  might  have  honoured  and  adorned  my  pages  with 
innumei'able  other  names,  of  persons  both  titled  and 
untitled ;  but  they  will  not  infer  from  this  omission 
that  their  kindness  is  not  recollected,  or  the  less  grate- 
fully appreciated.  There  are  grateful  hearts  on  both 
sides  of  the  Atlantic,  who  will  feel  that  every  act  of 
kindness  shown  to  a  friend,  or  fellow-countryman,  is 
in  no  inferior  sense  shown  to  themselves. 

II.  C. 

J.oildn],,   M(tii.   lSl,i). 


CONTENTS     OF    VOL.    I 


LETTER   I. 

(Page  1.) 

London  ;  its  extent  and  vastness ;   its  population  and  public  buildings ; 
Visit  to  the  House  of  Lords ;  English  courtesy. 

LETTER    II. 

(Page  7.) 

Visit  at  Barton ;  Funeral  of  the  Duke  of  Sussex  ;  Lodgings  in  London ; 
Contrasts  in  human  condition  ;  Civilities ;  Agricultural  visits. 

LETTER  III. 

(Page  12.) 
Windsor  Castle ;  Squares  and  parks  in  London ;  Hampton  Court. 

LETTER   rv. 

(Page  14.) 
Agricultural  Society  ;  Smithfield  and  Corn  Market ;  Visits. 

LETTER   V. 

(Page  17.) 

Environs  of  London ;  Epsom  races. 

LETTER   VI. 
(Page  18.) 

Human  miseries ;  Conservatism  ;  Neatness  of  English  women ;  Manners 
in  society. 

LETTER   VII. 

(Page  21.) 

Windsor  Terrace  ;  the  Queen  ;  the  Princess  Augusta ;   Charity  cluldren 
at  St.  Paul's. 

b 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

LETTER    VIII. 

(Page  23.) 

St.  George's  Cliapel ;  Eton  School ;  Donkeys  and  ponies. 

• 

LETTER    IX. 

(Page  25.) 

London  breakfasts ;  American  repudiation ;  Sir  Robert  Peel. 

LETTER   X. 

(Page  27.) 
Visit  at  Althorpe ;  Visit  at  Ingesu-^; ;  Visit  at  Goodwood ;  Style  of  living. 

LETTER   XI. 

(Page  33.) 

London  season ;  Dress,  milliner)',  and  jewelry  shops  in  London ;  Wedding- 
dress  of  Princess  Augusta, 

LETTER    XII. 

(Page  35.) 
Post-office  arrangements ;  Visit  to  Horsham ;  Pentonville  pr'.son. 

LETTER    XIII. 

(Page  38.) 
Visit  to  Doncaster  ;  Picture  and  sculpture  gaUeries  ;  Rural  scenery. 

LETTER   XIV. 

(Page  40.) 

General  condition  of  society. 

LETTER    XV. 

(Page  42.) 
Chatsworth ;   Haddon  Hall. 

LETTER   XVI. 
(Page  45.) 

Value  of  letters ;   Visit  at  Belper ;  Agreeable  interview ;  Matlock  ;  Shef- 
field. 

LETTER   XVn. 

(Page  50.) 
Chatsworth;  English  ladies. 


CONTENTS.  XV 

LETTER   XVIII. 

(Page  52.) 

Agricultural  Excursion  at  Doncaster  ;  Remarkable  unprovements. 

LETTER   XIX. 

(Page  55.) 

Agricultural  Show  at  Dundee ;  Lodgings  at  Dundee  and  Edinburgh ; 
Grouse  shooting  ;  Sunday  in  Edinburgli ;  Condition  of  the  people. 

LETTER   XX, 
(Page  62.) 

Sunday  in  the  rural  districts  in  Scotland  ;  Arthur's  Seat ;  Roslin  Castle 
and  Chapel ;  Auchternuchty  ;  Agricultural  excursion ;  Church  mili- 
tant ;  Markets  in  Edinburgh. 

LETTER   XXI. 

(Page  66.) 
Farms  and  farmers  in  Scotland. 

LETTER   XXn. 

(Page  68.) 

European  scenery  compared  with  that  of  New  England  ;  Railroad  trav- 
elling ;  Climate. 

LETTER   XXIII. 
(Page  71.) 

Melrose  Abbey ;    Abbotsford ;    Farms  and  farming  near  Edinburgh  ; 
Farm  laborers. 

LETTER   XXrV. 
(Page  73.) 

Melrose  Abbey ;  Village  to  Melrose  ;    Cowdin  Kuowse  ;  Dryburgh  Ab- 
bey ;  Tomb  of  Scott ;  Abbotsford ;  Galashiels  ;   Stirling  Castle. 

LETTER   XXV. 

(Page  83.) 
Scott's  Monument ;  Monuments  at  Edinburgh. 

LETTER   XXVI. 

(Page  84.) 

Lambton  Castle ;  Servants  and  arrangements  at  large  establishments ; 
Breakfasts  in  London  ;  Manners  at  tlic  Palace  ;  Reception  of  tlie  Queen 
at  Brighton ;  Snuff-taking ;  Manners ;  Foot-race  at  Duckingfield. 


XVI  CONTENTS. 

LETTER   XXVII. 

(Page  92.) 

Agricultural  Society  at  Manchester ;  Newspaper  accuracy ;  Visits  con- 
templated ;  Manchester  at  night ;  Lancashire  dialect. 

LETTER   XXVIU. 

(Page  95.) 

Manchester ;  its  trade  and  population. 

LETTER  XXIX. 

(Page  97.) 
York  Minster ;  Went  worth  House. 

LETTER    XXX. 

(Page  102.) 
Visit  at  a  Rectory  in  Nottiughamsliire  ;  Luxury  in  England. 

LETTER   XXXI. 

(Page  105.) 
Donkeys  ;  Dog-carts ;  Goat-carriages ;  Fox  hounds. 

LETTER  XXXII. 

(Page  108.) 

Incomes   and  wealth  of  individuals ;    the  Duke  of  Portland's  improve- 
ments ;  Earl  of  Yarborough's  plantations. 

LETTER  XXXin. 

(Page  112.) 
Education  of  Young  Ladies ;  its  importance. 

LETTER  XXXIV. 

(Page  114.) 

Visit  atWelbeck  Abbey;  Ruins  of  Hardwick  Castle  and  Hard  wick  Hall ; 
Style  of  living. 

LETTER  XXXV. 

(Page  118.) 

Importance  of  good  hand-writing ;  Characteristics  of  a  merchant ;  Visit 
at  Bransby  ;  Shops  in  Loudon,  Edinburgh,  Manchester,  and  Glasgow  ; 
Regent  Street  in  the  evening. 


CONTENTS.  XVII 

LETTER  XXXVI. 

(Page  121.) 

Visit  at  Stamford ;  Agricultural  excursions ;  Boston  ;  Lynn  ;  SwafTham  ; 
English  hospitality  ;  Dinner  at  Swafi'ham  ;  Queen's  entrance  at  Cam- 
bridge. 

LETTER  XXXVII. 

(Page  125.) 
Reception  of  the  Queen  at  Cambridge. 

LETTER  XXXVm. 

(Page  128.) 

Reading  Rooms  ;    Arrangement  at   Edinburgh  ;    Visits  contemplated  ; 
American  politics. 

LETTER  XXXLX. 

(Page  131.) 

Intelligence  of  the  death  of  friends  ;  Lodgings  in  London  ;  Bills  ;  Duties 
of  the  Maid  of  all  work  ;  Expenses  of  travelling  ;  Fees  of  servants. 

LETTER  XL. 

(Page  135.) 

Strawberries  at  Dundee ;     Other   fruits ;     Holkam ;     Babrahani ;     Mr. 
Webb's  sheep  ;  Ball  at  Wirapule  ;  Royal  state  beds. 

LETTER  XLI. 

(Page  137.) 

Goodwood  ;  Style  of  living ;  Chichester ;  Union  House ;  Agricultural 
excursions  to  Manhood  and  Boguor;  Extent  of  Goodwood  and  Gordon 
Castle. 

LETTER  XLII. 

(Page  143.) 

Sunday  at  Cambridge  ;  University  Church ;  Chapel  of  King's  College  ; 
Chapel  of  Trinity  College  ;  Hare-coursing  at  Babraham ;  Sporting 
season ;  Toll-House  on  the  Newmarket  road  ;  Neatness  of  English 
servants ;  Dress  and  manners  of  ladies. 

LETTER  XLTII. 

(Page  148.) 
Solitude  in  London  ;   Fruit-.sellers ;    Out  of  season  in  London  ;    Religious 
observances. 
b* 


XVlll  CONTENTS. 

LETTER  XLIV. 

(Pag-e  151.) 

London  ;    ils  populousness ;    its  vastness ;   Security  in  London  ;   Public 
order  and  decency  ;  Contrasts  in  condition. 

LETTER  XLV. 

(Page  156.) 

Death  of   fiiends ;    Christmas  at  Camberwdl ;    Miss  Edgewortli ;    Mr. 
Carlyle. 

LETTER  XLVL 

(Page  158.) 

New  Year's  congi-atulations ;  Scenery  and  objects  of  interest  in  Eng- 
land ;  Cambridge ;  Services  at  King's  Chapel  and  Trinity  College 
Chapel. 

LETTER  XLVIL 
(Page  162.) 

Tweiftii-Night;   Visits  at  East  Sheen ;  Sundry  visits  ;   Opening  of  Parlia- 
ment. 

LETTER  XLVin. 

(Page  165.) 
Fox-hunting;  Jock  of  the  Hunt ;  Game. 

LETTER  XLIX. 
(Page  169.) 

Feelings  of  the  English  in  regard  to  the  United  States ;   Political  parties  ; 
Labor  ;  Opening  of  Parliament ;   English  conservatism. 

LETTER  L. 

(Page  171.) 
Opening  of  Parliament ;   its  magnificence ;  The  Queen's  speech. 

LETTER  LL 

(Page  174.) 

Time  ;  how  passed  ;  Visit  at  Teddesley  Park ;  Marquis  of  Northampton's 
soiree ;   .'rupper  of  the  pupils  at  Christ's  Hospital. 


CONTENTS.  XUC 

LETTER  LII. 

(Page  179.) 

Landseer's  engravings ;  Visiting  parties  iu  London  ;  Education  in  Eng- 
land ;  Political  aspects  of  society ;  American  reputation ;  American 
politics  ;  Irish  agitation  ;  Dress  of  gentlemen  ;  Mr.  Everett's  degree 
at  Oxford. 

LETTER  LIIl. 

(Page  1S5.) 

Landseer's  engravings  ;    English  ladies ;  Observance  of  the  Lord's  Day  ; 
Tlieatres. 

LETTER  LIV. 

(Page  1S9.) 

Visit  of  the  Queen  to  the  Exhibition  of  the  Royal  Academy ;  Queen's 
Drawing-room  on  her  Birth-day  ;  Dress  of  English  ladies. 

LETTER   LV. 

(Page  192.) 

Regimen  for  invalids  ;   Speech  of  Lord  Brougham ;  Speech  of  Sir  Robert 
Peel ;  Character  of  Sir  Robert  Peel ;  House  of  Commons. 

LETTER    LVI. 

(Page  IGf).) 

Value  of  character;   Mercantile  character;  Regatta  at  Oxford;   Gym- 
nastic games. 

.     LETTER   LVn. 

(Page  197.) 
Visit  to  Oxford ;  Bodleian  Library. 

LETTER  LVIII. 

(Page  199.) 

Travelling  in  stage  coaches ;  Visit  to  Blenheim ;  Visitors  and  fees  at 
such  establislimeuts ;  Exliibitioa  of  the  Royal  Academy. 

LETTER   LIX. 

(Page  204.) 
Climate  ;  Culture  of  Flowers;  F^te  at  Chiswick;  American  politics. 

LETTER   LX. 

(Page  207.) 
Martyr  Monument  in  Oxford ;  Monuments  in  London ;  Scott's  Monu- 


XX  CONTENTS. 

LETTER    LXI. 

(Page  208.) 
Fox's  Head  ;  Blenheim  Castle  ;  Study  of  Natural  science. 

LETTER   LXIL 

(Page  210.) 
London  Brewery ;  Military  Review ;  Fete  at  Clii.swick. 

LETTER    LXIII. 

(Page  213.) 
Observance  of  the  Sabbath. 

LETTER   LXIV. 

(Page  215.) 
Edinburgh ;  Agriculture  in  Scotland ;  Language ;  Scotch  Church  secession. 

LETTER   LXV. 

(Page  218.) 

Visit  at  West  Stratton ;   Agricultural  Show  at  Southampton  ;    Visit  at 
Sydney  Lodge ;  Sunday  in  the  country. 

LETTER    LXVI. 

(Page  223.) 

American  politics;   Condition  of  England;   Sunday  in   the  country; 
Preaching  in  London  ;  Unitarians. 

LETTER    LXVn. 

(Page  227.) 
Agricultural  Show  at  Southampton  ;  Season  ;  Farming  at  West  Stratton. 

LETTER  LXVin. 

(Page  230.) 
Isle  of  Wight ;  The  Grange  ;  Autograplis. 

LETTER  LXIX. 

(Page  232.) 

Winchester  Cathedral ;  Isle  of  Wight ;  Portsmouth  ;    Foreign  exclusive- 
ness  ;  Apprehensions  of  farmers. 


CONTENTS.  XXI 

LETTER  LXX. 

(Page  234.) 

Visit  at  Eastbourne  ;  American  Friends  in  London ;  London  Newspapers  ; 
Tiie  Times;  Voyage  to  Dublin;  Dublin;  Irish  Royal  Agricultural 
Society  meeting. 

LETTER  LXXI. 

(Page  239.) 

Chantry's  monumental  statue  in  Litclilield  Cathedral;     Landseer's  en- 
gravings ;  English  politics  ;  Misery  in  Ireland  ;    O'Connell. 

LETTER  LXXII. 

(Page  241.) 
Irish  hospitality  ;  Donny  Brook  Fair ;  Tt22p>'''""^f  plpr[p-p 

LETTER  LXXIII. 

(Page  242.) 

Limerick  gloves ;  Agricultural  excm'sions  in  Ii-eland  ;  Lake  of  Kiliarney 
and  Gap  of  Dunlop ;  Mode  of  Living  in  Ireland ;  Classical  education 
in  Ireland. 

LETTER  LXXIV. 
(Page  245.) 

Travelling  excursions  ;  Kindness  of  IrLsh  friends  at  Dublin  and  at  Cork  ; 
Father  Matthew ;  Blarney  Castle  ;  Killamey ;  Pony  ride  ;  Visit  at 
Ardfry;  SUgo  ;  Templemoyle  ;  Giant's  Causeway  ;  Belfast;  Visit  at 
Dun-Murry  ;  Visit  at  Armagh  ;  Sunday  at  Duu-Murry  ;  Wretchedness 
among  the  Irish. 

LETTER  LXXV. 
(Page  255.) 

Agricultural  inquiries ;    Belfast;  Its  manufactures  ;   Political  condition  of 
Ireland ;    Irish  bishops. 

LETTER  LXXVI. 

(Page  2.58.) 
Ayr;  Glasgow;  Scotch  farming ;  Sunday  in  Edinburgh. 

LETTER  LXXVII. 

(Page  260.) 

Visit  at  Stirling  ;  Visit  at  Argety  ;  Falkirk  Trysle  ;    Scotch  farming  in  llie 
Lothians;  Visits  at  Tynemouth  and  Biddick. 


XXll  CONTENTS. 

LETTER   LXXVII. 

(Page  2G3.) 

Tyneraouth  ;  Bathing  at  Tynemoutli ;  Miss  M 's  residence  ;  Public 

conveyances ;  Carlisle. 

,  LETTER  LXXIX. 

(Page  266.) 
Visit  of  the  Queen  at  Blair  Athol ;  Loyalty  of  the  English. 

LETTER  LXXX. 

(Page  268.) 

Visit  at  Audley-end ;    Agricultural  meeting  at  Saffron  Walden ;   Visit 

at  Babrahani ;  Sundry  excursions. 

LETTER  LXXXI. 

(Page  271.) 
Visit  at  Pendarves. 

LETTER  LXXXIL 

(Page  273.) 
Visits  at  Torquay,  Plymouth,  Truro,  Pendarves,  and  Canibron. 

LETTER  LXXXIII. 

(Page  277.) 
Cornwall ;  Descent  into  a  copper  mine. 

LETTER  LXXXIV. 

(Page  284.) 
Climate  of  England ;  Fruits  and  flowers. 

LETTER  LXXXV. 

(Page  285.) 

Visit  to  Penzance  ;  Excursion  to  Land's  End ;   Visit  at  King's  Western ; 
Visit  at  Tortworth  ;  Visit  at  Painswick. 

LETTER  LXXXVL 

(Page  291.) 

Invitations ;  Death  of  Judge  Prescott. 

LETTER  LXXXVIL 

(Page  292.) 
Visit  at  Tredegar ;  Modes  of  living  at  a  large  establishment ;  Manners. 


CONTENTS.  XXm 

LETTER  LXXXVIU. 

(Page  299.) 
The  Lavvrencia  Villa. 

LETTER  LXXXIX. 

(Page  302.) 

Woburn  Abbey ;  Agriculture  at  Wobum. 

LETTER  XC. 

(Page  304.) 

Visits ;  Twelfth-night  near  Pusey ;  Visit  at ;  Shooting  party  ;  Dress 

and  manners ;  Visit  at  "Woburn  Abbey ;  Description ;  Domestic  arrange- 
ments ;  Opening  of  Parliament. 

LETTER  XCI. 

(Page  315.) 
Sunday  at  Home ;  Charms  of  moral  beauty. 

LETTER  XCn. 

(Page  317.) 
Climate ;  Excessive  cold ;  Miss  Cushman ;  Theatres. 

LETTER  XCm. 

(Page  320.) 
Crowds  in  London  streets ;  Vehicles ;  Shops  ;  Appearance  and  dress. 

LETTER  XCrV. 

(Page  323.) 

Parliament ;  Theatre  ;  Weather. 

LETTER  XCV. 

(Page  324.) 

Controversies  about  religion ;    Crowded  state  of  London ;    Steamboats  ; 
Late  hours  in  London. 

LETTER  XCVI. 

(Page  328.) 
Count  Rzewuski ;  Letters. 

LETTER  XCVII. 

(Page  329.) 
Bal  Costume  at  tiie  Palace. 


XXIV  CONTENTS. 

LETTER  XCVIII. 

(Page  330.) 

Electric  Telegraph  ;  Present  to  Mohammed  Ali ;  Greek  Slave,  by  Mr. 
Powers ;  Queen's  Bed  Costume ;  Polisli  Fancy  Dress  Ball ;  Visit  to 
Northamptonshire. 

LETTER  XCIX. 

(Page  337.) 
Finsbury  Chapel ;  Music  ;  Mr.  Fox. 

LETTER  C. 

(Page  338.) 

Lodgings  ;   Invitations  ;  Adventure  ;   Death  of  Mr.  Saltonstall ;  Private 
tutors  ;  Opera  in  London  ;  Dinners  of  the  Cordwainer's  Company. 

LETTER  CI. 

(Page  343.) 
Weather  ;  Prorogation  of  Parliament ;  The  Queen. 

LETTER  CII. 

(Page  345.) 

Death  of  a  friend  ;   Illness  of  a  friend  ;   Power  of  religion ;   Visit  to  the 
Old  Bailey;   True  Christianity. 

LETTER  cm. 

(Page  348.) 

Weather ;  School  at  Norwood  ;  Dinner ;  Farming  at  Croydon  ;  Excur- 
sions in  London  ;  Sunday  in  the  country ;  Letter  from  an  unknown 
friend. 

LETTER  CrV. 

(Page  353.) 
Wenham  Lake  ice ;  Religious  controversy ;  "  A  Live  Apostle." 

LETTER  CV. 

(Page  355.) 
Personal  independence ;  Growth  of  London ;  Visit  to  the  Old  Bailey. 

LETTER  CVI. 

(Page  359.) 

Remembrances  of  home ;  Peril  of  late  marriages. 


ERRATA. 

Many  mistakes  have  beyond  doubt  occurred  through 
my  incapacity  of  revising  the  press.  A  friend  has  pointed 
out  a  few,  which  appear  worthy  of  notice  : 

PAGE      LINE 

Vol.  I.       29  3  ybr  home-farm  rearf  home-estate 

39  5  —    Sevre's  read  Sevres 

—  —         19  —  games  read  game 

Vol.  II.       V  19  —  Calefornia  read  Caledonia 

—  vi  39  —  Smith  read  Swift 

—  133  13  —  have  reac?  brave 

—  140  10  &  16  after  divine  and  affords  read  •,fcir  . — 

—  —  19  ybr  prayers  read  progress 

—  154  —    for  exjnatiore  read  expiatoire 

—  160  18    — feme  read  /ewwe 

• —  162  16  for  conjugality  read  conjugiality 

—  164  IS    —  contribute  read  contrive 

—  183  29    iorfemexea-iiifemme 

—  235  27   for  approval  read  arrival 

—  386  31    —  fourth  reat?  forth 

—  387  7    —  hinderance  read  hindrance 

For  others,  my  blindness  must  claim  indulgence. 


EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNEKS. 


LETTER  I. 

London,  15tli  May,  1S43. 
My  Dear  Sir: 

I  HAVE  been  here  now  about  ten  days,  have  seen  every 
thing,  and  yet  in  truth  have  seen  nothing.  I  liave  stu- 
died the  maps  over  and  over  again  ;  I  have  thumbed  my 
guide-books  until  they  look  as  if  they  had  served  half  a 
dozen  classes  at  a  country  school,  where  they  live  by 
borrowing  and  there  is  not  more  than  one  book  to  a 
class ;  and  yet  so  sure  as  I  leave  the  great  thoroughfares 
I  am  lost.  It  is  a  perfect  wilderness  of  houses  and 
streets,  and  lanes,  and  courts,  and  kennels,  and  I  was 
two  hours  the  other  evening  in  finding  my  lodgings  at  a 
distance  of  half  a  mile  from  where  I  had  been  visiting. 
The  people  are  not  wanting  in  civility,  but  they  seem  to 
me  to  appreciate  very  imperfectly  the  difficulties  of  a 
stranger.  Frequently  when  they  tell  you  to  go  straight 
along,  you  will  have  half  a  dozen  corners  to  turn,  when, 
as  to-day,  it  happened  to  me,  there  were  seven  streets, 
all  radiating  from  one  centre,  and  when  you  reached 
that  centre  there  were  four  to  choose  from,  all  "  straight 
ahead  ;"  and  you  will  frequently  have  to  follow  one  as 
crooked  as  a  cork-screw,  and  then  dodge  into  some 
1 


'Z  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

court,  where  the  passage  is  so  narrow  and  obscure  you 
would  scarcely  think  it  led  anywhere,  and  then  you 
become  involved  in  a  perfect  labyrinth,  and  after  various 
turnings  and  processions,  and  recessions,  you  have  the 
felicity  of  coming  out  exactly  where  you  entered.  Some 
of  the  streets,  lined  with  shops  full  of  the  most  brilliant 
collections  and  varieties  of  goods,  and  others  stretching 
through  long  ranges  of  stalls  and  shops  full  of  meats, 
vegetables,  fruits  and  groceries,  are  actually,  by  my  own 
measurement,  not  in  width  more  than  a  foot  beyond 
what  I  could  reach  with  my  outstretched  arms  ;  and 
these  places  so  thronged  with  people  that  it  requires 
considerable  skill,  and  a  constant  movement  onward  to 
avoid  running  other  people  down  or  being  run  down 
yourself.  A  street  twice  as  wide  as  Theatre  Alley  in 
Boston,  at  its  entrance  from  Milk  Street,  with  a  gutter 
in  the  middle,  and  lined  with  stores  as  thick  as  they  can 
stand,  and  a  torrent  of  people  pressing  through  them  in 
opposite  currents  side  by  side,  is  a  specimen  of  some 
of  the  busiest  thoroughfares  in  this  modern  Babylon. 
But  this  is  one  side  of  the  picture.  If  London  has  its 
narrow  streets,  it  has  likewise  its  broad  and  magnificent 
passages,  of  a  width  a  third  greater  than  Broadway  in 
New  York,  in  its  widest  parts,  running  for  miles,  with 
stores  and  shops  of  almost  unimaginable  splendor,  and 
in  their  richness  and  magnificence  realizing  the  brightest 
fictions  of  poetry. 

Then  again,  the  extent  of  London :  It  is  absolutely 
impossible  to  communicate  to  one  who  has  not  seen  it 
any  just  idea  of  it.  I  have  said  to  myself  several  times, 
"well, now,  I  have  seen  the  whole,"  yet  I  soon  find  out 
that   I  have   seen   nothing.     You   can   travel   eighteen 


LETTER    I.  3 

miles  from  Brentford  to  Strafford,  through  an  unhiter- 
rupted  succession  of  thickly-planted  houses.  I  have 
walked  until  I  have  had  to  sit  down  on  some  door-steps 
out  of  pure  weariness,  and  yet  have  not  got  at  all  out 
of  the  rushing  tide  of  population.  I  have  rode  on  the 
driver's  seat  on  omnibuses,  and  there  has  been  a  con- 
stant succession  of  squares,  parks,  terraces,  and  long  lines 
of  single  houses  for  miles,  and  continuous  blocks  and  single 
palaces  in  the  very  heart  of  London,  occupying  acres  of 
ground.  I  do  not  speak  of  course  of  the  large  parks, 
which  for  their  trees,  their  verdure,  their  neatness,  their 
embellishments,  their  lakes  and  cascades,  their  waters 
swarming  with  fish,  and  covered  with  a  great  variety  of 
water-fowl  which  they  have  been  able  to  domesticate, 
and  their  grazing  flocks  of  sheep  and  cattle,  and  their 
national  monuments,  and  the  multitudes  of  well-dressed 
pedestrians,  and  of  elegantly  mounted  horsemen  and 
horsewomen,  and  of  carriages  and  equipages  as  splendid 
as  gold  and  silver  can  make  them,  are  beautiful  beyond 
even  my  most  romantic  dreams.  I  do  not  exaggerate, 
I  cannot  go  beyond  the  reality. 

Then  again  the  crowded  state  of  the  streets  in  the 
great  thoroughfares,  the  main  arteries  of  this  mighty 
body,  beating  continually  with  tremendous  pulsations : 
I  have  stood  two  or  three  times  in  situations  where  I  had 
an  opportunity  of  looking  up  a  long  line  of  street,  and 
the  carriages  and  the  people  seemed  absolutely  piled  one 
upon  the  other.  If  you  want  your  ease  in  such  cases, 
get  into  a  carriage,  but  if  you  want  to  make  despatcii 
then  go  on  foot,  for  the  carriages  on  both  sides  are  com- 
pelled to  keep  in  line,  and  can  advance  only  as  their 
predecessors    go    on.     Yet    with    all    this    there   is   no 


4  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

incivility  and  no  rudeness  ;  and  though  I  have  been  a 
great  deal  in  the  streets  and  in  crowds  without  number, 
and  have  seen  vexation  enough  in  passing,  I  do  not 
think  I  have  heard  a  single  oath  since  I  have  been  in 
the  city. 

Then  come  the  palaces  and  the  public  buildings.  I 
cannot  describe  them.  It  is  idle  to  attempt  it,  and  the 
guide-books  give  you  very  imperfect  accounts  of  them. 
One  would  think  you  could  see  all  the  public  buildings 
in  London  in  a  week.  I  do  not  believe  they  could  all 
be  gone  over,  by  working  every  day,  in  six  months,  so  as 
to  have  any  adequate  idea  of  them.  Some  of  the  pub- 
lic buildings  are  of  very  inferior  appearance,  but  elegant 
in  the  interior,  and  all  of  them  are  more  or  less  discolored 
by  the  weather  and  smoke,  which  upon  the  whole  does 
not  really  injure  their  looks.  Everybody  has  heard  of 
St.  Paul's,  and  Westminster  Abbey,  and  Westminster 
Hall,  and  grand  indeed  they  are,  but  they  are  only  one 
item  in  the  long  list.  Every  one  has  heard  of  the  mon- 
ument, designed  to  commemorate  the  great  fire  in  Lon- 
don, but  London  is  full  of  monuments,  some  a  single 
fluted  column,  others  a  simple  shaft,  and  others  adorned 
with  an  equestrian  or  a  civic  statue.  Some  people  talk 
of  seeing  London  in  a  week.  I  verily  believe  its  objects 
of  curiosity  could  not  be  gone  over  by  an  intelligent  and 
observing  individual,  so  as  to  obtain  a  just  idea  of  them, 
in  a  year.  I  confess,  notwithstanding  my  raised,  and  I 
had  supposed,  my  exaggerated  expectations,  the  vast- 
ness  of  London,  its  population,  its  immense  wealth,  its 
palaces,  its  monuments,  its  bridges,  its  parks,  over- 
whelm me.  But  I  have  not  yet  seen  the  Tower,  nor 
the  National  Gallery,  nor  the  Museum,  nor  the  Zoolo- 


LETTER    I. 


gical  Garden,  nor  the  &;c.  he.  Yesterday  I  went  to 
church  at  Westminster  Abhey  in  the  forenoon  ;  at  noon 
at  St.  Margaret's  Church,  where  the  Lord  Bishop  of 
St.  David's  preached,  and  in  the  afternoon  at  the  Temple, 
one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  town,  and  built  by  the 
Knights  Templars,  after  the  model  of  the  Church  at 
Jerusalem.  It  was  with  a  good  deal  of  difficulty  in  the 
former  and  the  latter  place  I  could  get  admission.  In 
the  morning  I  had  to  stand  through  the  whole  service. 
To  give  you  some  idea  of  the  latter  church,  it  has  been 
undergoing  repairs  for  the  last  thirteen  months,  at  an 
expense  of  only  £100,000  sterling.  Its  magnificence 
is  extraordinary.  The  service  in  both  these  churches 
is  chanted,  not  read  ;  and  there  is  a  formality  in 
regard  to  beadles,  and  constables  in  waiting,  with  gowns 
and  bands  on,  and  others  with  gold-laced  coats  and 
epaulets,  and  officers  carrying  the  mace,  and  all  that, 
which  is  in  itself  all  beautiful,  and  operates  powerfully 
upon  the  veneration,  but  which  is  very  foreign  from  the 
naked  simplicity  to  which  we  are  accustomed.  The 
Church  here,  however,  is  altogether  a  political  establish- 
ment, and  as  much  an  integral  part  of  the  government 
as  the  House  of  Commons. 

I  have  had  very  poor  success  in  getting  into  the  House 
of  Commons,  from  the  crowd  waiting  for  admission.  I 
merely  got  a  peep  at  the  close  of  one  evening  session 
about  twelve  o'clock.  Many  persons  wait  five  and  six 
hours  with  exemplary  patience,  and  then  are  perhaps 
disappointed.  I  had  my  name  entered  this  afternoon 
for  admission,  possibly,  next  Monday  ;  and  then  only  pro- 
vided all  the  seats  engaged  are  not  taken.  This  after- 
noon, in  the  House  of  Lords.  I  hari  the  pleasure  to  hear 
I* 


O  EUROPEAN    LIFE     AND    MANNERS. 

Lord  Brougham,  Lord  Wharncliffe,  the  Duke  of  Wel- 
lington, Lord  Londonderry,  and  others,  I  could  scarcely 
have  been  more  fortunate.  The  debate  was  incidental, 
and  on  the  condition  of  Ireland.  Lord  Brougham  speaks 
extremely  well,  and  is  by  no  means  so  homely  as  the 
pictures  of  him  represent.  The  Duke  of  Wellington  is 
bent,  and  appears  like  an  infirm  old  man,  his  teeth  gone 
and  his  voice  tremulous.  His  speech  was  short,  broken, 
and  decisive.  Everybody  listens  to  him.  The  House  of 
Lords  appears  less  dignified  than  our  Senate  of  the 
L^nited  States.  Many  of  the  Lords  wear  their  hats, 
and  many  of  them  are  lounging  on  the  seats.  There 
was  great  decomm,  however,  in  their  manner  of  speaking 
and  addressing  each  other.  The  Lord  Chancellor  pre- 
sides in  the  House,  but  he  has  no  authority  to  command 
order,  and  can  only  put  a  question.  The  speakers  do 
not  address  him,  but  the  Peers,  as   "my  Lords." 

Good  manners  here  are  evidently  a  universal  study, 
and  this  renders  your  intercourse  most  agreeable.  Per- 
sons talk  of  English  coldness  and  hauteur.     Three  of 

us  Americans,  Mr.  M ,  Mr.   T ,  and   myself, 

agree  that,  as  far  as  we  have  seen,  no  charge  was  ever 
less  founded  —  that  we  never  met  with  persons  more 
accessible  and  communicative  ;  that  we  have  found  them 
universally  polite ;  and  that  in  every  case  where  they 
have  recognized  us  as  strangers,  in  public  places  and  in 
the  streets,  without  an  exception,  they  have  gone  out  of 
their  way  to  answer  and  gratify  our  curiosity.  A  gentle- 
man, whom  I  found  out  afterwards  was  of  the  House  of 
Commons,  volunteered  to  point  out  to  me  the  most  dis- 
tinguished members  of  the  House  of  Lords,  and  to  give 
me  various  information. 


LETTER    II. 


The  letters  which  I  have  dehvered  have  been  duly 
honored.  I  have  not  yet  delivered  a  quarter  of  those  I 
had.  I  cannot  leave  London  until  probably  the  middle 
of  June. 


LETTER   IL 


London,  IfMli  May,  1843. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  WROTE  to  you  a  long  letter  from  Liverpool  by 
steamer  ;  and  by  a  vessel  which  sailed  about  the  same  time 
I  sent  you  the  journal  of  my  voyage.  I  have  written  this 
evening  to  Mr.  M.,  and  propose,  if  I  have  time,  to  write 
to  other  friends  :  If  I  have  time  ;  that  is  well  added,  for 
never  before  in  my  life  has  time  so  much  been  wanting, 
and  have  I  found  so  little.  It  is  now  one  o'clock  at  night. 
My  room  is  in  a  court  near  one  of  the  great  thoroughfares, 
and  the  carriages  are  driving  as  flist  almost  as  they  have 
been  any  time  in  the  day,  and  the  streets  are  alive  with 
people.  The  business  shops  close  at  ten,  in  general,  but 
the  ale  and  wine  shops,  the  saloons,  and  the  dmggists' 
shops,  I  believe,  are  open  all  night ;  and  the  fire  of 
intemperance,  I  should  infer,  was  nourished  as  faithfully 
as  the  vestal  fire  at  Rome,  and  never  permitted  to  go  out 
or  to  slacken.  When  the  cabmen,  or  when  the  poor  horses 
get  any  rest,  it  would  be  difficult  for  me  to  imagine. 

You  would  like  to  know  something  of  my  where- 
abouts. After  leaving  Liverpool,  I  proceeded  to  London 
by  the  way  of  Barton-under-Needwood,  where  Mr.  M.'s 
letter  directed  me,  and  where  Mr.  Birch,  who  had 
received  notice  of  my  coming,  was,  with  his  carriage, 


8  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

waiting  to  take  me  to  his  house.  It  was  impossible 
for  me  to  receive  a  more  friendly  welcome.  Mr.  B. 
is  an  eminent  surgeon  ;  his  patients  averaging  from  forty 
to  fifty  per  day,  and  his  circuit  extending  many  miles 
round,  so  that  he  has  constant  occupation  for  five 
horses  for  his  own  personal  use.  I  remained  and  went 
to  church  with  them  on  Sunday.  On  Monday,  they 
invited  company  to  dine  with  me,  and  he  gave  me  a 
long  drive  over  the  country  ;  and  on  Tuesday,  against 
their  persuasion,  I  left  for  London,  being  anxious  to  see 
the  state  funeral  of  the  Duke  of  Sussex,  which  took 
place  on  Thursday.  I  was  successful  in  getting  a  good 
situation,  having  walked  seven  miles  out  of  town  before 
breakfast,  as  the  tickets  would  not  admit  persons  to  the 
cemetery  after  eight  o'clock.  It  was  fortunate  for  me 
that  I  went  on  foot,  for,  on  account  of  the  long  line 
of  carriages,  many  of  those  who  rode  had  to  get  out 
and  walk  two  miles  to  the  gate,  and  then,  after  it  was 
over,  the  public  carriages  were  compelled  to  wait  some 
hours  for  the  procession  to  return,  as  none  were  suffered 
to  move  from  the  place  where  they  stood,  until  all  that 
was  done.  Kensal  Green  Cemetery,  about  seven  miles 
from  town,  covers  an  extent  of  ground  larger  than  Bos- 
ton Common  ;  is  tastefully  laid  out  and  decorated  ;  has 
a  handsome  chapel,  where  the  burial-service  is  per- 
formed, and  is  full  of  elegant  monuments.  The  Duke 
was  always  the  friend  and  favorite  of  the  people,  and 
for  that  reason  was  not  looked  upon  with  so  much  favor 
by  the  royal  family  ;  but  he  preferred  being  buried 
among  the  people,  rather  than  to  repose  in  the  royal 
vaults  at  Windsor.  The  concourse  of  people  was 
immense.     The  sides  of  the  road,  for  the  whole  distance 


LETTER    II.  9 

from  TiOndon,  where  it  was  possible,  were  covered  with 
stagings,  all  crowded  with  people,  and  where  the  canal 
skirted  the  road,  as  it  did  for  some  distance,  boats  were 
stationed,  which  were  also  crowded.  No  person  was 
admitted  to  the  cemetery  without  a  ticket,  nor  unless 
in  mourning.  My  situation  gave  me  a  favorable  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  many  distinguished  persons,  Prince 
Albert,  Prince  George,  the  Dukes  of  Wellington,  Cam- 
bridge and  Devonshire,  and  other  eminent  individuals. 
The  parade  A\as  matter  of  curiosity,  and  must,  of  course, 
be  pronounced  magnificent,  but  it  was  not  altogether  to 
my  taste.  The  coffin  was  covered  with  crimson  velvet 
and  golden  or  gilt  mountings  as  ornaments ;  but,  after 
all,  it  contained  what  the  meanest  beggar  would  not 
accept  as  a  gift,  and  that  which,  however  brilliant  in  life 
or  decorated  in  death,  could  not  be  distinguished  from 
the  remains  of  the  poor  wretch  who  was  never  covered 
but  with  tatters,  and  died  upon  a  bed  of  straw.  Such 
are  the  contrasts  in  human  condition.  I  was  glad,  how- 
ever, to  witness  this  great  parade.  It  flatters  the  vanity 
and  pride  of  the  higher  classes,  and  for  the  others,  as 
they  say,  makes  trade  brisk.  The  hearse,  with  its 
various  decorations,  drawn  by  six  black  horses,  with 
waving  plumes  on  their  heads  and  mantles  of  rich  black 
velvet,  and  led  by  grooms,  in  black,  with  staves,  pre- 
ceded by  mutes  with  their  staves  covered  with  weeds, 
surrounded  and  followed  by  the  military  and  the  state 
carriages,  was  really  a  superb  affair. 

But  I  will  quit  this  subject,  and  come  to  something 
more  personal.  On  my  arrival  in  London,  I  went  to  a 
hotel,  where  I  remained  five  days,  and  then  souglit  pri- 
vate lodgings.     I  went  to  various   ])lac(\s  where  I  had 


10  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

been  recommended  to  go,  and  at  last  took  the  matter 
into  my  own  hands,  and  have  got  one  of  the  best  places 
in  the  town  for  its  central  and  convenient  situation,  and 
for  its  airiness  and  quiet,  and,  I  will  add,  for  its  neatness 
and  comfort.  I  have  a  parlor  and  bed-room,  neatly  and 
handsomely  furnished,  and  for  these  I  pay  thirty  shil- 
lings per  week,  or  about  six  dollars  sixty-seven  cents, 
and  for  this  sum  they  also  provide  my  breakfast  and  tea, 
when,  and  as  I  want  them,  and  my  dinner,  if  I  choose, 
charging  me  the  cost  of  the  articles.  Fire  and  candles 
are  an  extra  charge,  at  cost,  and  one  shilling  for  boots, 
and  errands,  and  such  douceur  as  I  please  to  the  cham- 
bermaid. It  is  impossible,  anywhere,  to  have  a  nicer 
establishment,  though  I  could  have  had  one,  quite  as 
good,  for  twenty  shillings  per  week,  but  over  the  river, 
which  would  not  have  been  convenient  for  me.  I  shall 
remain  here  certainly  until  June.  My  course  afterwards 
is  not  quite  determined,  but  I  am  promised  the  best 
advice  and  assistance. 

London  altogether  exceeds  my  expectations  in  extent, 
in  population,  in  magnificence.  In  neatness,  excepting 
undoubtedly  some  of  the  most  wretched  parts  of  the  old 
city,  it  is  most  remarkable.  In  rainy  weather,  of  course, 
there  is  mud  in  the  streets,  but  the  crossings  are  swept, 
and  all  the  courts  and  by-places,  which  are  innumera- 
ble, and  great  thoroughfares,  even  where  the  butchers' 
and  market  shops  and  stables  are,  are  very  clean.  I 
hardly  know  how  it  is  effected.  There  is  wretchedness 
enough,  beyond  all  question,  and  you  meet  constantly 
with  the  most  pitiable  objects  of  charity.  The  most 
melancholy  sight  in  London  and  Liverpool,  and  one 
which   is   heart-rending   to   a   benevolent  mind,   is  the 


LETTER    II.  11 

number  of  women  of  the  town  ;  poor,  miserable,  pitiable 
victims  of  vice,  abuse,  treacliory  and  ignominy.  In  the 
principal  streets,  I  verily  believe,  during  the  evening,  if 
you  stand  still,  you  will  be  passed  by  one  every  minute. 
The  wretchedness  to  which  such  poor  creatures  are 
doomed,  must  be  beyond  all  expression,  and  what  is  the 
remedy  or  preventive,  if  any  is  to  be  found.  Heaven  only 
knows.  The  extreme  of  degradation  I  saw  in  Liver- 
pool ;  where,  I  believe  I  mentioned  to  you,  I  saw  repeat- 
edly women  collecting  manure  at  the  horse-stands,  with 
their  hands,  in  their  aprons  or  in  baskets.  The  extremes 
in  human  life,  from  that  of  one  of  the  noblesse  to  that  of 
one  of  these  poor  women,  are  certainly  very  striking. 

Tell I  have  little  chance  of  obtaining  for  her  a 

King  Charles'  poodle.     The  lady  of ,  who 

had  a  well-educated  one,  told  me  the  price  was  thirty 
guineas ;  and  it  had  no  doubt  been  stolen  from  her,  a 
very  common  trick,  by  the  man  who  sold  it  to  her,  and 
she  had  to  pay  him  eight  guineas  more  {oy  finding  it. 

There  are  in  London  a  great  many  things  connected 
with  my  objects  which  I  must  see :  The  Smithfield 
cattle-market,  the  milk  establishments,  the  horticultural 
establishments  and  the  markets.  You  can  have  no  idea 
of  the  consumption  of  time  in  London. 

Mr.  Everett  is  very  civil.  Earl  Spencer  promises  to 
mark  out  a  route  for  me,  and  told  me  that  it  was  not 
necessary  to  have  brought  any  credentials.  Lord  Ash- 
burton  invites  me  to  dine  on  Thursday,  at  a  quarter 
past  seven,  and  writes  a  civil  note,  saying  he  is  anxious 
to  serve  me  in  any  practicable  way.  Lord  Morpeth  has 
been  very  attentive.  Mr.  Bates  took  me  to  his  beauti- 
ful villa,  six  miles  from  London,  to   pass   Sunday  with 


12  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

him.  The  Earl  of  Hardwicke  desires  me  to  inform 
him  when  I  will  go  to  his  place,  as  he  shall  he  anxious 
to  render  me  every  attention.  The  Agricultural  Society 
meet  every  Wednesday,  and  have  invited  me  to  attend. 
Several  other  gentlemen,  members  of  Parliament  and 
others,  have  been  polite  to  me.  Mr.  Dickens  has  called 
twice  without  my  seeing  him.  Dr.  Outram  has  called,  but 
I  was  out.  I  have  a  pile  of  letters  as  yet  undelivered. 
Mr.  Everett  says,  the  great  difficulty  here  is  the  want  of 
time  and  the  constant  occupation  of  everybody  ;  so  that 
there  are  no  idlers,  for  even  the  mere  pleasure-hunters 
have  their  hands  more  than  full. 


LETTER   III. 

TO    A    YOUNG    FRIEND. 

London,  IGtli  May,  1843. 
My  Dear  C : 

The  head  of  my  sheet  presents  one  view  of  Wind- 
sor Castle,  and  this,  I  think,  you  would  like  to  see.  I 
went  there  a  few  days  since  with  Mr.  T.,  of  Boston.  Un- 
fortunately for  us  it  was  on  Friday,  and  as  this  is 
the  cleaning  day  of  the  state  apartments,  we  could  not 
be  admitted  to  view  the  palace  inside,  but  had  the 
pleasure  of  looking  at  its  exterior,  and  walking  in  its 
courts  and  terraces.  The  situation  is  elevated,  and 
commands  a  view  of  the  country  to  a  great  extent,  cm- 
bracing  cultivated  fields,  plantations  and  forests,  cities  and 
villages,  and  the  River  Thames  and  the  Eton  School,  —  a 
view  of  the  beauty  of  which  it  would  be  quite  impossible 


LETTEH    111.  13 

for  me  to  convey  to  you  an  adequate  idea.  Tlie  rail-cai-s 
took  us  there  in  half  an  hour,  and  brought  us  back  as 
speedily,  about  eighteen  miles  from  London  ;  and  though 
I  like  despatch,  I  should  have  been  glad  of  a  little 
longer  delay  in  passing  through  the  beautiful  country, 
which  surrounds  this  ^reat  city. 

But  the  parks  here  have  impressed  me  as  much  as 
any  thing.  In  every  part  of  the  city,  both  the  old  and 
the  newer  parts,  there  are  large  squares,  some  as  large, 
and  some  much  larger  than  Salem  Common,  enclosed  in 
handsome  iron  fences,  and  filled  with  trees  and  flowers, 
besides  being  adorned  with  monuments  of  some  great 
event  or  some  distinguished  individual ;  but,  besides 
these,  there  are  several  great  parks,  containing  three 
and  four  hundred  acres,  each  kept  in  the  neatest  man- 
ner, with  lawns  and  gravel  walks,  full  of  trees  and 
shrubs  of  the  most  beautiful  description  ;  and  what  per- 
haps will  more  surprise  you,  large  herds  of  sheep  and 
cattle  grazing. 

The  parks  and  squares  in  London  embrace,  I  have 
no  doubt,  full  fifteen  hundred  acres.  Lincoln's  Inn 
Fields  is  said  to  be  of  the  size  of  the  base  of  the  great 
pyramid  of  Egypt,  being  at  least  several  acres. 

I  have  visited  likewise  Hampton  Court  Palace,  of 
which  I  shall  be  glad  to  send  your  father  some  engravings 
which  I  obtained  for  him. 

The  grounds  here,  I  think,  are  more  beautiful  than  in 
any  other  place  I  have  seen.  Here  I  saw  large  herds 
of  deer  quite  tame,  at  least  a  hundred  in  a  herd.  Here 
likewise,  I  saw  a  vine  more  than  seventy  feet  long,  which 
produced  last  year  two  thousand  pounds  of  grapes.  But 
it  would  be  quite  idle  for  me  to  undertake  to  describe 
o 


14  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

all  that  I  have  seen  that  has  interested  me  and  would 
interest  you  ;  and  yet,  I  can  scarcely  be  said  to  have 
begun  to  see  London.  This  will  furnish  matter  for 
some  long  Peter  Parley  stories,  when  I  get  home,  an 
event  which  seems  to  me  at  present  very  distant,  though 
time  moves  on  with  inconceivable  rapidity. 

What  has  particularly  delighted  me  here,  is,  that 
which  cannot  be  too  strongly  impressed  upon  your  mind 
as  matter  of  duty,  and  that  is  the  universal  attention  to 
good  manners  and  the  courtesy  which  everywhere  pre- 
vails. It  seems  to  me  impossible  that  persons  should  be 
more  civil,  especially  if  they  see  you  are  a  stranger. 
Above  all,  the  decency  and  neatness  of  the  better  classes 
of  people  delight  me.  I  have  scarcely  seen  a  smoker, 
and  as  to  a  tobacco-chewer,  not  one.  You  can  hardly 
tell  what  a  delightful  change  this  is  to  me  after  leaving 
Western  New  York.  I  am  not  surprised  at  any  com- 
plaint or  disgust  which  Englishmen,  well-bred  English- 
men, manifest  or  suffer  in  this  matter,  while  travelling  in 
our  country. 


LETTER   IV. 

London,  29th  May,  1843. 
My  Deak  M : 

I  HAVE  just  received  and  read  with  delight,  your  letter 

of  the  13th  of  May  ;  and  it  certainly  establishes  one  most 

agreeable  point,  that  although  we  are  a  great  way,  we 

are  not  a  great  while  apart.     The  steamer,  I  am  told, 

had  only  nine  days  from  Halifax,  and  eleven  and  a  half 


LETTER    TV.  15 

from  Boston,  which  seems  httle  short  of  flying.  I  can- 
not express  the  pleasure  I  have  had  in  seeing  the  myr- 
iads of  objects,  that  are  continually  arresting  attention  ; 
and  not  a  day  nor  an  hour  passes  that  something  new 
does  not  present  itself. 

The  parks,  the  churches,  the  gardens,  the  theatres, 
the  markets,  the  people,  the  streets,  the  carriages,  the 
bridges,  the  exhibitions,  the  fairs,  the  bazars,  the  cus- 
toms, the  manners,  all  are  full  of  interest,  and  keep  one's 
senses  and  imagination  continually  upon  the  stretch ; 
and  yet  I  have  scarcely  begun  to  see  what  is  to  be  seen. 
It  has  rained  every  day,  and  I  have  been  caught  in  the 
wet  again  and  again,  but  having  become  amphibious, 
have  not  had  a  cold. 

You  will  want  to  know  where  my  business  is;  well, 
all  I  have  to  say,  is,  that  I  have  not  yet  made  much 
progress  in  it.  Though  I  have  not  been  idle,  I  have  not 
yet  arranged  my  plans.  I  have  sought  an  acquaint- 
ance with  several  gentlemen  interested  in  agriculture ; 
and  this  I  have  accomplished.  I  have  attended  several 
meetings  of  the  Agricultural  Society,  and  on  Monday 
last  Lord  Spencer  called  me  up,  when  I  barely  acknow- 
ledged the  honor  the  Society  had  conferred  upon  me  in 
enrolling  me  among  their  members,  and  stated  the  objects 
of  my  mission,  and  this  has  procured  me  several  invita- 
tions. The  Earl  of  Hardwicke  has  invited  me  to  visit  him. 
The  Marquis  of  Devonshire,  in  Ireland,  desires  I  would 
come  to  see  him.  The  Bishop  of  Exeter  invites  me  to 
make  him  a  visit.  Lord  Morpeth  offers  me  any  aid  in  his 
power,  and  has  been  very  kind.  Mr.  Pusey,  member  of 
Parliament,  proposes  that  I  should  make  him  several  visits, 
and  that  I  should  go  on  an  agricultural  excursion  with  him 


16  ETTROPEAN    LIFE     ANB    MANNERS. 

in  his  county.  Earl  Spencer  has  invited  nie  to  make  a 
visit  to  his  place  at  Althorpe,  next  Monday,  and  see  his 
farm,  and  attend  a  Cattle-Show  near  it,  on  Wednesday  of 
next  week.  He  offers  to  introduce  me  to  several  farmers 
in  the  neighborhood.  But  this  is  only  a  part.  To-day  I 
spent  my  morning,  from  seven  o'clock  until  two,  in  the 
cattle  market  and  the  corn  market.  The  cattle  market  is 
held  in  the  very  middle  of  London,  in  a  public  square 
where  John  Rogers  was  burnt  at  the  stake  ;  and  there 
were  there,  this  morning,  more  than  three  thousand  oxen 
and  thirty-six  thousand  sheep  and  hogs,  &c.,  enough  to 
make  up  forty  thousand  animals.  The  Corn  Exchange 
is  a  very  large  market  for  the  sale  of  all  sorts  of  grain 
by  samples. 

I  have  dined  with  Mr.  Dickens  ;  a  most  agreeable  din- 
ner with  Mrs.  Reid ;  a  dinner  as  agreeable  with  Mr. 
Teschemacher ;  and  with  Lord  Ashburton,  with  a  party 
of  gentlemen  and  ladies.  Here  were  splendor  and  ele- 
gance enough.  I  have  made  a  good  many  other  visits 
equally  agreeable,  and  declined  several  invitations.  I 
have  drank  tea  with  Mr.  Carlyle,  in  a  most  pleasant 
manner,  and  I  am  to  dine  on  Saturday  next  with  Mr. 

Colquhoun,  a  particular  friend  of  Mr.  G ,  of  Canan- 

daigua.  I  have  not  delivered  a  third  of  my  letters, 
for  I  find  if  I  do  my  time  will  be  wholly  used  up. 

I  continue  to  think  my  accommodations  as  good  as  a 
man  could  ask  for.  The  family  are  trades-people,  but 
keep  my  rooms  in  the  best  possible  order,  and  do  every 
thing  they  can  for  my  comfort.  As  to  sending  you 
my  journal,  as  was  proposed,  you  know,  it  is  entirely 
out  of  the  question.  After  this,  as  I  shall  probably  be 
in  the  country,  I  shall  find  it  more  difficult  to  write. 
However,  I  shall  not  let  a  steamer  go  without  a  letter. 


LETTER    V.  17 

Mr.  M and  Dr.   H are  at  housekeeping^ ; 

that  is,  they  hire  five  furnished  rooms  witli  attendance, 
and  then  pay  all  expenses. 


LETTER  V. 

Lonilon,  1st  June,  1843. 
My  Dear  S : 

Time  never  seemed  so  scarce  with  me  as  just  now  ; 
but  I  am  not  willing  to  let  this  opportunity  pass  without 
writing  to  you. 

I  have  seen  so  much  that  is  interesting,  and  curious, 
and  beautiful,  that  I  hardly  know  where  to  begin 
and  where  to  end.  London,  in  all  respects,  alto- 
gether surpasses  my  expectations.  It  is  far  more 
beautiful  than  I  expected  to  find  it ;  and  as  to  the  coun- 
try in  its  neighborhood,  and  the  cottages  and  fields,  I 
greatly  admire  them.  They  are  so  tasteful,  they  are  so 
green,  the  lawns  are  so  smooth,  the  hedges  are  so  neat, 
and  now  in  full  flower,  the  flowers  are  so  abundant  and 
so  gracefully  arranged,  the  trees  are  here  and  there  scat- 
tered about  with  so  much  negligee,  if  I  may  use  the 
expression,  and  are  so  beautiful,  that  a  ride  or  a  walk  in 
the  country,  is  a  perfect  scene  of  enchantment.  Yes- 
terday I  went  to  the  races  at  Epsom,  about  eighteen 
miles  from  London.  I  was  much  urged  to  see  them, 
and  had  a  strong  inclination.  I  found  I  could  ride  nine 
miles  on  a  railroad,  and  walk  the  remaining  distance 
with  a  gratification  much  more  than  a  compensation  for 
the  fatigue.  Such  a  concourse  of  people  I  never  saw, 
2* 


18  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

nor,  indeed,  half  as  many  at  a  time.  The  horses  that 
contended  for  the  prizes  were  more  than  twenty.  The 
purse  run  for,  was  twenty  thousand  dollars.  The  sums 
which  actually  changed  hands  on  the  occasion,  were, 
probably,  full  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  pounds, 
or  more  than  seven  hundred  thousand  dollars.  I  stood 
directly  under  the  judges'  stand,  and  the  excitement,  as 
the  horses  came  up  and  passed  the  stand,  was  beyond 
any  thing  you  can  think,  and  would  be  likened  to  nothing 
but  the  breaking  of  the  waves  in  a  violent  storm  along 
the  whole  line  of  a  beach  of  several  miles.  But  one 
race  is  enough  for  me.  I  got  home  in  good  season,  and 
was  glad  to  have  witnessed  the  spectacle.  I  saw  no 
great  disorder  on  the  occasion,  but  the  whole  distance 
from  London,  on  the  road,  seemed  to  be  only  one  con- 
tinuous line  of  carriages  and  horsemen  of  every  possible 
description. 


LETTER  VL 

London,  l.st  June,  1S43. 
My  Dear  A : 

I  MUST  confess  myself  delighted  with  England,  and 

altogether  agreeably  surprised.     There  is  misery  enough 

no   doubt,   and   instances    of   distress    that  make   your 

heart  ache.     Here  are  sixteen  millions  of  people  in  this 

little  island,  and  two  millions  in  this  single  city.     Now, 

that  there  must  be  a  great  deal  of  misery,  and  poverty, 

and  vice,  and  sin,  and  untold  suffering,  there  can  be  no 

question,     I  wish  to  Heaven  it  was  not  so ;  but  how  is 

it  to  be  cured  ?     I  know  not.     Things  are  not  ordered 


LKTTER    Vr. 


19 


exactly  as  I  could  wish  they  were ;  for  then  I  would 
have  no  suftermg  ;  hut  instead  of  complaining  of  what 
I  cannot  help,  I  feel  bound  to  admire  what  deserves  to 
be  admired,  delight  myself  with  what  is  agreeable  and 
charming,  and  take  pleasure  in  seeing  such  a  vast 
amount  of  improvement,  knowledge,  enterprise,  skill, 
wisdom  and  goodness  as  is  here  congregated,  and  in 
witnessing  the  progress  of  society  in  the  humane  arts,  and 
in  all  that  makes  life  agreeable.  I  cannot  estimate  how 
much  I  have  lost  in  not  seeing  England  before ;  and  I 
have  certainly  had  more  pleasure  compressed  in  the  last 
three  weeks,  than  in  any  three  years  of  my  life. 

Some  things  would  strike  you  as  very  remarkable. 
In  our  country,  every  thing  is  new  and  every  thing  is 
changing.  Here  the  spirit  is  conservative,  and  things 
are  altered  with  great  difficulty.  The  judges,  for  ex- 
ample, and  the  lawyers  wear  wigs,  as  they  did  centuries 
ago.  The  liveried  coachmen  wear  wigs,  and  the  charity 
boys  wear  leather  breeches,  blue  or  yellow  yam  stock- 
ings, shoes  with  buckles,  long  coats  and  bands,  which  I 
presume  was  the  dress  of  two  hundred  years  ago.  So 
the  court  dress,  in  which  you  are  to  be  presented  at  the 
levees,  is  the  same  that  was  worn  in  the  days  of  Queen 
EHzabeth. 

The  neatness  of  the  better  clfisses  of  women  is  quite 
striking.  The  majority  of  them  wear  white  cotton  stock- 
ings, without  those  dirty  pantalets  which  you  see  bob- 
bing about  the  ancles  of  our  women,  and  they  have  too 
much  good  sense  under  an  affected  modesty  to  let  their 
clothes  draggle  in  the  mud  ;  but  they  raise  their  skirts  a 
little,  and  you  will  see  them  elegantly  dressed,  and  walk- 
ing throutrh,  and   crossino;   the   muddiest  streets   in   the 


20  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

rain,  and  not  a  speck  of  dirt  upon  their  shoes  or  stock- 
ings. I  wish  our  ladies  at  home  could  take  some  les- 
sons from  them.  Another  thing  shows  their  good  sense. 
They  all,  in  walking,  wear  pattens  or  thick-soled  shoes, 
as  thick  as  cork  shoes,  or  else  galoshes.  India  rubbers 
are  not  seen.  They  have  another  practice  which  I 
greatly  admire.  They  seldom  wear  false  curls  ;  but 
women  whose  hair  is  gray  wear  it  gray,  and  seem  to 
take  as  much  pains  with,  and  as  much  pride  in  their 
silver  locks  as  the  younger  ones  do  in  their  auburn 
tresses.  I  have  met  a  good  many  ladies  in  company, 
but  I  do  not  find  them  to  differ  greatly  from  those  I  left 
at  home,  among  the  well-educated  classes.  Manners, 
however,  are  certainly  much  more  a  study  than  with  us, 
and,  upon  the  whole,  make  society  much  more  agreeable ; 
for  they  are  not  put  on  for  the  occasion,  but  grow  up 
with  them  as  matter  of  course.  Every  thing  in  society 
proceeds  much  more  quietly  than  with  us.  From  what 
I  can  see,  the  English  women  must  be  excellent  house- 
wives, as  nothing  can  exceed  the  neatness  and  comfort 
of  their  establishments.  I  do  wish  I  could  show  you 
my  bed-room  and  parlor,  and  let  you  see  how  neatly  I 
am  served. 

P.  S.     Tell  Miss  D Dr.  Outram  has  been  very 

polite  to  me. 


LETTER    Vir.  21 


LETTER    VII. 


London,  Ist  June,  1843. 

I  THINK  very  often  of  you,  my  dear  E and  G , 

and  think  how  much  pleasure  I  should  have  in  seeing 
both  of  you  ;  but  it  is  quite  idle  to  wish  that  which 
is  impossible,  and  at  present  I  must  be  content  with 
writing  to  you,  and  hearing  from  you.  There  is  no  end 
to  sight-seeing  in  this  great  city,  and  I  believe  several 
years  might  be  fully  occupied  in  observing  its  various 
objects  of  curiosity  and  interest.     I  sent  one  view   of 

Windsor  to  C ,  and  now  I  send  another  to  you,  but 

it  is  impossible  to  depict  on  paper  the  extraordinary 
beauty  of  the  landscape  from  the  terrace  at  Windsor, 
which  runs  round  the  palace.  The  inhabitants  of  this 
celebrated  mansion  I  have  not  yet  seen.  I  mean  the  little 
Queen.  Prince  Albert,  I  have  seen  several  times  ;  but 
the  Queen  is  rather  shy  since  she  has  been  twice  shot 
at  in  the  crowd  ;  what  but  utter  and  deplorable  madness 
could  induce  any  one  to  attempt  her  life,  I  cannot  con- 
ceive, as  she  is  quite  inoffensive  in  her  manners,  is  very 
much  beloved  by  the  people,  and  is  one  of  the  best 
sovereigns  that  has  ever  sat  upon  the  throne  of  England. 
I  am  told  to-day,  by  a  member  of  Parliament,  that  she 
rises  early,  walks  in  the  garden,  takes  care  of  her  child- 
ren, attends  punctually  to  the  important  state  business 
which  every  day  devolves  upon  her,  and  is  a  well-in- 
formed, intelligent  woman.  Her  cousin,  the  Princess 
Augusta,  who  is  to  be  married  to  a  German  Prince,  I 
have  seen  several  times.     She  is  about  as  larce  as  Miss 


22  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

D ,   and    not    unlike    her,   though    younger.      She 

dresses,   at   least   in    public,   as   plainly   as   almost  any 
young  lady. 

The  most  interesting  sight  which  I  have  yet  seen  in 
England,  was  the  meeting  of  the  charity  children  in 
London  and  its  vicinity  in  St.  Paul's  church.  They 
were  from  about  eight  to  ten  years  old  ;  the  girls  all 
dressed  in  neat  white  caps,  the  boys  all  in  dark  long 
coats  and  shirts  of  different  colors,  according  to  the 
school  to  which  they  belonged  ;  the  girls,  some  with 
their  caps  trimmed  with  red  ribbons,  some  with  white, 
and  some  with  blue  ;  and  here  were  from  seven  to  ten 
thousand  of  them,  all  arranged  in  the  centre  of  the  cathe- 
dral, on  seats  rising  one  above  another  on  three  sides 
of  an  oval,  with  the  audience  in  the  centre,  and  stretch- 
ing along  through  the  great  aisle.  During  the  service, 
I  went  into  the  whispering  gallery,  which  is  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  dome,  extending  all  round  it,  and  directly 
over  their  heads,  about  two  hundred  feet  from  them. 
We  could  hear  them  distinctly,  and  saw  them  to  the 
greatest  advantage.  They  resembled  a  beautiful  bed  of 
variegated  flowers,  and  indeed  it  seems  to  me  nothing  on 
this  earth  ever  appeared  one  half  so  beautiful.  I  was 
greatly  excited,  and  was  half  tempted,  in  a  state  of  deli- 
rium, to  throw  myself  over  the  railing.  How  much  I 
wished  that  you  and  your  mother  could  have  seen  it. 
After  the  service,  the  schools  went  out  in  different  pro- 
cessions and  directions,  it  requiring  a  long  time  to  clear 
the  chapel  ;  and  I  went  up  to  the  cupola  of  the  church, 
from  which  we  could  see  them  winding  off  in  different 
directions,  and  threading  the  different  streets  like  so  many 
beautiful  ribands.     These  children,  by  the  benevolence 


LETTER    VIII.  .  23 

of  good  christian  men  and  women,  are  taken  from  home- 
lessness,  and  poverty,  and  destitution,  and  all  the  expo- 
sures to  vice  and  misery  which  attend  them,  and  receive 
a  good  and  useful  education  to  fit  them  for  respectable 
conditions  in  society. 


LETTER    VIII. 

TO    A    BOY. 

London,  1st  June,  1S43. 
My  Dear  N : 

Here  is  another  picture  from  Windsor.  This  is  St. 
George's  Chapel,  near  the  palace,  in  which  the  royal 
family  are  buried,  when  they  die  ;  for  kings  and  queens 
and  princes  die  as  well  as  the  rest  of  mankind. 

St.  George's  Chapel  is  built  in  exquisite  taste,  is  very 
curious  in  its  construction,  and  most  extraordinary  for 
the  work  which  has  been  done  upon  it ;  particularly  its 
beautifully  groined  arches,  which  support  the  ceiling, 
and  its  carved  stalls  in  the  choir.  The  banners  of  the 
Knights  of  the  Garter  were  suspended  from  the  walls,  and 
under  them,  over  their  respective  stalls,  are  placed  their 
helmets,  caps  and  arms.  The  painted  glass  windows 
are  from  subjects  given  by  West,  and  executed  by  some 
other  person.  The  Lord's  Supper,  the  Visit  of  the 
Magi,  are  among  the  subjects,  and  the  pictures  want 
nothing  but  antiquity  to  give  them  a  high  value.  Here 
is  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  the  Princess  Charlotte, 
who  died  at  the  birth  of  her  first  child,  in  the  very 
flower  of  her  youth.  She  is  represented  in  full  size,  in 
the  act   of  ascending  to  heaven,  lifted   up   by  angels. 


2A  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

Her  infant  child  is  also  represented.  Several  figures  with 
their  faces  veiled  are  weeping  at  the  foot  of  the  monu- 
ment. The  ascension,  in  every  rational  view,  would 
seem  rather  matter  of  rejoicing  or  congratulation,  than  of 
grief.  Who  would  think  it  cause  of  lamentation  to  go 
directly  to  heaven,  even  from  a  throne  ?  Several  of  the 
kings  are  buried  in  this  chapel.  We  were  shown  the 
queen's  pew,  or  stall,  and  the  door  at  which  her  majesty 
usually  enters  the  church.  She  now  seldom  attends, 
preferring  her  private  chapel,  to  avoid  publicity. 

Cathedral  service  is  performed  here  twice  a  day. 
There  are  eight  canons  and  one  dean.  Six  knigfit  pen- 
sioners, in  their  military  dress,  are  required  to  attend 
the  daily  service  or  lose  their  bread.  This  considera- 
tion, no  doubt,  has  some  influence  on  their  piety. 

A  short  distance  from  Windsor  is  the  Eton  School, 
where  the  sons  of  the  nobility  and  gentry  are  educated, 
and  where  from  time  immemorial  they  have  been  made 
good  scholars  by  frequent  floggings,  a  system  of  disci- 
pline that  I  cannot  think  would  be  much  to  your  taste. 
Their  play-grounds  consist  of  hundreds  of  acres  of 
park,  with  a  turf  as  smooth  as  if  it  had  been  cut  with  a 
pair  of  scissors,  and  then  combed  with  a  fine-tooth  comb, 
without  any  fences  in  sight,  except  by  the  road.  Here 
there  were  a  good  many  of  the  scholars  practising  at 
their  favorite  game  of  cricket. 

I  have  seen  a  good  many  sights  which  I  think  v>'ould 
amuse  you.  On  Monday,  I  saw  at  Smithfield  market  a 
cow  giving  milk,  and  from  appearances  as  much  as  most 
cows,  well  formed  and  handsome,  over  which  I  could, 
without  any  difficulty,  have  put  my  leg.  She  would  do 
very  well  to  bring  into  the  kitchen  over  at  Elfin-glen. 


LETTER    IX.  25 

But  one  of  the  most  amusing  sights  is  the  donkeys  in  tiie 
carts.  They  are  many  of  them  not  larger  than  u  calf  a 
year  old,  and  they  are  tackled  into  small  carts  and 
driven  about  by  men  and  women,  who  carry  vegetables 
and  fruits  and  flowers  to  sell,  and  indeed  other  and 
pretty  heavy  burdens.  They  cost  from  five  to  ten  or 
fifteen  dollars  apiece,  and  are  kept  for  a  very  small  sum. 
But  besides  these  there  are  a  great  many  ponies,  some  sin- 
gle and  some  driven  in  pairs,  not  higher  than  for  you  to  rest 
your  chin  upon  if  you  stood  by  them,  and  many  of  them 
extremely  beautiful  and  docile.  I  think  if  your  mother 
had  a  little  pony  phaeton,  with  a  handsome  pair  of  well- 
broke  ponies,  she  would  enjoy  riding  out  with  G.  and 
driving  herself,  very  much. 


LETTER   IX. 

London,  2il  June,  lS-13. 
My  Dear  Sir: 

To  your  care  I  entrust  several  letters,  which  will  pro- 
bably come  under  your  notice  in  part,  and  acquaint  you 
with  my  whereabouts. 

I  have  a  great  deal  to  add,  but  no  time  now.  I  have 
every  attention  which  I  could  desire,  and  the  offer  of  a 
great  deal  more  than  I  can  avail  myself  of.  On  Monday, 
I  start  on  my  explorations  in  the  country,  though  I  think 
I  shall  return  to  London  for  a  week.  If  my  health  con- 
tinues, of  which  there  is  a  fair  prospect,  I  have  the  best 
hopes  of  accomplishing  my  objects  ;  but  it  will  be  no 
sinecure.  I  have  met  a  good  many  gcnilcmcii  of  the 
3 


26  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

highest  distinction,  who  promise  me  every  aid  and 
kindness. 

Mr.  M seems  to  me  disposed  to  look  a  Httle  too 

much  on  the  dark  side  of  things,  but  he  is,  I  beheve, 
much  gratified  with  his  visit.  How  can  it  be  otherwise  ? 
Never,  it  seems  to  me,  were  so  many  interesting  objects 
congregated  in  one  place  before. 

This  morning  I  breakfasted  with  a  large  party  of  gen- 
tlemen, members  of  parliament  and  others.  This  is  a 
charming  mode  of  visiting  and  very  common.  You  go 
at  ten  and  usually  sit  until  twelve.  Three  days  since  I 
was  at  a  splendid  breakfast  at  Mr.  Pusey's,  M.  P.,  with 
a  "  topping  off"  with  delicious  strawberries  and  grapes. 
This  morning  an  agreeable  party  and  a  very  substan- 
tial meal,  at  Mr.  Kenrick's.  American  repudiation 
often  comes  up  to  my  annoyance,  but  I  do  my  best  to 
make  them  understand  the  difference  between  Amer- 
ican and  State  repudiation.  They  say  the  American 
government  ought  to  maintain  and  vindicate  the  honor 
of  the  States.  I  wish  they  would.  It  would  be  worth 
infinitely  more  to  the  country  than  the  cost. 

Night  before  last,  I  had  a  great  treat  at  the  House  of 
Commons,  in  hearing  Sir  Robert  Peel.  He  is  capital 
in  point  of  talents  and  dignity  of  address. 

I  have  this  moment  got  a  very  kind  invitation  from 
Earl  Talbot,  whom  I  have  not  seen,  to  visit  him  in 
Staffordshire,  one  of  the  best  agricultural  districts.  I 
have  a  hundred  things  I  want  to  say  to  you,  but  must 
spare  you  as  well  as  myself. 


LETTER    X.  27 

LETTER   X. 

London,  ICth  June,  1S43. 
My  Dear  M : 

By  the  invitation  of  Earl  Spencer,  to  which  I  have 
already  referred,  to  visit  him  at  Althorpe,  about  sixty 
miles  from  London,  and  attend  a  Cattle-Show,  I 
went  there  and  received  every  polite  attention.  His 
home-place  consists  of  ten  thousand  acres,  all  lying 
together,  in  wood,  meadow,  pasture,  gardens,  parks,  and 
every  thing  in  a  style  of  superior  beauty  and  order. 
There  is,  first,  a  very  large  house,  forming  three  sides  of 
a  quadrangle,  and  furnishing  sleeping-rooms  for  seventy 
guests,  with  extensive  halls  for  servants  ;  the  entries  and 
rooms  are  filled  with  pictures  and  statues ;  a  gallery  of 
pictures  one  hundred  feet  in  length,  containing  many  of 
the  works  of  the  first  masters,  and  a  library  of  most  val- 
uable books -in  elegant  binding,  covering  the  high  walls 
of  eight  large  rooms  and  halls,  and  making  together 
more  than  fifty  thousand  volumes  ;  said  to  be  the  finest 
private  library  in  the  world.  Then,  besides  that,  there 
are  extensive  ranges  of  stables  as  elegant  as  private 
dwellings,  and  equally  neat ;  and  greenhouses  and  con- 
servatories, and  the  gamekeeper's  house,  and  the  dairy- 
house,  and  the  dog-kennels,  and  the  porter's  lodge  at 
the  entrance  of  the  park,  and  how  many  farm-houses  I 
cannot  say.  No  fences  are  to  be  seen  from  the  house, 
excepting  a  light  "  invisible "  iron  fence  to  keep  the 
parterres  of  flowers  from  the  cattle  ;  and  there  are  hun- 
dreds of  sheep  and  cattle  of  the  finest  description  graz- 


28  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

ing  round  the  house  and  park.  Several  gentlemen, 
members  of  parliament,  were  of  the  party,  and  were 
all  furnished  with  horses  to  go  over  the  country  and 
to  examine  the  farms  and  stock,  in  which  excursion 
we  spent  Tuesday  ;  and  on  Wednesday,  was  the  Cat- 
tle-Show and  the  Ploughing-match  at  Northampton, 
a  beautiful  town  larger  than  Charlestown,  about  three 
miles  from  Althorpe,  where,  after  the  show,  a  large  party 
of  gentlemen  sat  down  to  an  elegant  entertainment. 
I  was  obliged  to  leave  on  Thursday  morning,  to 
proceed  to  Ingestre,  to  visit  Earl  Talbot,  one  of  the 
first  noblemen  in  England,  and  for  several  years  Lord- 
Lieutenant,  or  Viceroy  of  Ireland,  who  had  previously 
sent  me  an  invitation.  This  was  likewise  to  be 
an  agricultural  show  and  festival.  Here,  too,  I  was 
received  as  kindly  as  possible,  and  after  the  show  we 
had  a  most  agreeable  dinner  with  more  than  a  hundred 
farmers  and  the  neighboring  gentry  in  the  palace  hall. 
The  next  day,  his  son  took  me  about  six  miles  to  spend 
the  day  on  one  of  his  best-managed  farms,  and  to  show 
me  every  thing  about  the  place  ;  and  on  Saturday,  when 
I  returned  to  town,  his  lordship  himself  took  me  six 
miles  to  the  railroad  station  (not  called  depot,)  to  show 
me  the  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  (a  most  admirable  and 
well-conducted  institution,)  and  many  other  things  which 
he  knew  would  gratify  me.  While  at  Lord  Spencer's,  I 
received  a  note  from  the  Duke  of  Richmond,  addressed  to 
Lord  Spencer,  giving  me  an  invitation  to  accompany  him 
on  Monday  to  his  place  at  Goodwood,  sixty  miles  from 
London,  and  see  his  farm  and  the  farmers,  and  attend  a 
sheep-shearing  and  a  meeting  of  an  association  for  the 
reward    and    encouragement    of  honest  and  industrious 


LETTER    X.  29 

laborers.  On  Monday,  at  10  o'clock,  he  called  for  me 
in  his  carriage,  and  we  went  to  his  place  through  a  most 
delightful  country.  His  home  farm  consists  of  23,000 
acres,  and  besides  various  other  farms,  he  has  between 
two  and  three  hundred  thousand  acres  of  land  in  Scot- 
land, where  he  goes  in  the  summer,  and  where  he  has 
invited  me  to  make  him  a  visit.  Of  the  beauty  and 
magnificence  of  this  establishment  I  cannot  give  you 
any  adequate  idea.  It  is  beyond  any  expectations 
which  I  had  formed.  He  himself  was  kind  enough  to 
show  me  over  his  whole  house.  He  was  bred  a  soldier, 
has  been  wounded  in  the  breast,  of  which  he  still  feels 
the  effects,  and  has  been  in  thirteen  pitched  battles, 
finishing  off  with  the  battle  of  Waterloo.  Few  men  in 
the  kingdom  rank  higher  than  he,  and  no  man,  in  his 
manners,  can  show  less  hauteur  or  pride,  be  his  rank 
what  it  may. 

Here,  too,  we  had  a  public  dinner ;  one  hundred  and 
five  meritorious  laborers,  who  were  to  receive  premiums 
for  good  conduct,  dining  with  us,  and  a  very  large  party 
of  noblemen,  gentlemen,  farmers,  and  at  least  sixteen 
clergymen,  with  the  Lord  Bishop  at  their  head.  Here, 
too,  were  toasts  and  speeches,  which  I  lived  through,  in 
spite  of  the  cheering,  three  times  three  and  one  more. 
The  dinner  at  Goodwood  was  given  in  the  Tennis-court, 
a  spacious  room  ;  a  part  of  which,  at  the  end  of  the 
room  was  separated  by  a  wooden  grating,  behind  which, 
scarcely  visible,  a  party  of  ladies  were  assembled  to 
hear  the  speeches.  In  reference  to  this  circumstance,  a 
gentleman,  I  cannot  say  with  how  much  gallantry,  but 
with  no  little  cheering,  gave  as  a  toast,  "  The  hens  in 
the  coop."  This  was  on  Tuesday,  and  on  Wednesday, 
3* 


30  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

the  Duke,  after  carrying  me  to  several  farmers,  and  two 
poor-houses  and  houses  of  correction,  brought  me  back 
to  London,  and  tendered  me,  in  the  kindest  manner, 
every  service  in  his  power.  Now,  it  is  impossible  to 
convey  to  you  on  paper  a  just  idea  of  the  magnificence 
and  beauty  of  this  palace  and  residence,  filled  with 
books,  pictures,  statues,  curiosities,  conveniences  and 
elegancies.  One  of  the  large  halls  is  covered  with  yel- 
low silk,  and  with  pictures  in  tapestry  of  the  most  ex- 
quisite workmanship,  and  splendid  furniture.  Then,  the 
extensive  parks,  through  which  you  literally  ride  for 
miles  and  miles,  and,  what  was  singularly  beautiful,  the 
herds  of  deer,  of  sheep,  of  cattle,  and  twenty-five  race- 
horses in  the  stable,  with  a  groom  for  each  of  them ; 
together  with  an  aviary,  an  enclosure  of  six  acres,  with  a 
high  wall,  a  pond,  a  grove,  a  grotto,  which  the  ladies  of 
the  house  were  seven  years  in  adorning  with  varied  shells, 
a  keeper's  house,  and  places  for  the  parrots,  canary  birds, 
gold  and  silver  fish,  peacocks,  and  above  all,  the  beautiful 
golden  and  silver  pheasants,  making  one  of  the  most  roman- 
tic and  delightful  spots  that  can  be  imagined.  I  told  him, 
as  soon  as  there  should  be  a  vacancy,  I  should  certainly 
apply  for  the  situation  of  the  keeper.  The  distance  to 
Goodwood  is  sixty  rniles,  which  we  easily  accomplished 
in  six  hours,  having  rode  post,  as  it  is  called  here,  chang- 
ing horses  every  ten  miles,  in  about  three  minutes,  and 
never  getting  off  our  seats  until  we  reached  the  end  of 
our  journey. 

You  will  be  glad  to  know  something  about  the  man- 
ner of  living  in  these  places,  and  in  this  rambling  letter 
I  will  tell  you,  that  in  respect  to  convenience,  comfort 
and  ease,  it  is  near  perfection.       As  soon  as  you  an'ive 


LKTTKR    X.  31 

at  the  house,  your  name  is  announced,  your  portman- 
teau is  immediately  taken  into  your  chamber,  which  tlie 
servant  shows  you,  with  every  requisite  convenience  and 
comfort.  At  Lord  Spencer's  the  watch  opens  your  door 
iii  the  night  to  see  if  all  is  safe,  as  his  house  was  once 
endangered  by  a  gentleman's  reading  in  bed,  and  if  he 
should  find  your  light  burning  after  you  had  retired, 
excepting  the  night  taper,  or  you  reading  in  bed,  without 
a  single  word,  he  would  stretch  out  a  long  extinguisher, 
and  put  it  out.  In  the  morning,  a  servant  comes  in  to 
let  you  know  the  time  in  season  for  you  to  dress  for 
breakfast.  At  half  past  nine  you  go  in  to  family  prayers, 
if  you  find  out  the  time.  They  are  happy  to  have  the 
guests  attend,  but  they  are  never  asked.  The  servants 
are  all  assembled  in  the  room  fitted  for  a  chapel.  -They 
all  kneel,  and  the  master  of  the  house,  or  a  chaplain, 
reads  the  morning  service.  As  soon  as  it  is  over  they 
all  wait  until  he  and  his  guests  retire,  and  then  the 
breakfast  is  served.  At  breakfast  there  is  no  ceremony 
whatever.  You  are  asked  by  the  servant  what  you  will 
have,  tea  or  coffee,  or  you  get  up  and  help  yourself. 
Dry  toast,  boiled  eggs,  and  bread  and  butter  are  on  tlu^ 
table,  and  on  the  side-table  you  will  find  cold  ham, 
tongue,  beef,  he,  to  which  you  carry  your  own  plate 
and  help  yourself,  and  come  back  to  the  breakfast-table 
and  sit  as  long  as  you  please.  All  letters  or  notes  ad- 
dressed to  you  are  laid  by  your  plate,  and  letters  to  be 
sent  by  mail  are  put  in  the  post-box  in  the  entry,  and 
are  sure  to  go.  The  arrangements  for  the  day  are  then 
made,  and  parties  are  formed  ;  horses  and  carriages  for 
all  the  guests  are  found  at  the  stables,  and  each  one  fol- 
lows the  bent  of  his  inclination.      When  Ik^  returns,  if  sit 


32  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

noon,  he  finds  a  side-table  with  an  abundant  lunch  upon 
it  if  he  chooses,  and  when  he  goes  to  his  chamber  for 
preparation  for  dinner,  he  finds  his  dress-clothes  brushed 
and  folded  in  the  nicest  manner,  and  cold  water,  and 
hot  water,  and  clean  napkins  in  the  greatest  abundance. 
At  Lord  Spencer's,  Lord  Ashburton's,  Earl  Talbot's, 
there  was  a  good  deal  of  gold  plate  on  the  table,  and  the 
dishes  and  plates,  excepting  the  dessert  plates,  were  all 
of  silver  ;  at  the  Duke  of  Richmond's  they  were  of  porce- 
lain, the  dishes  of  silver.  Servants  are  without  number. 
I  have  never  dined  out  yet,  even  in  a  private  untitled 
family,  with  less  than  three  or  four,  and  at  several  places 
eight  or  nine  even,  for  a  party  hardly  as  numerous ;  but 
each  knows  his  place ;  all  are  in  full  dress,  the  liveried 
servants  in  livery,  and  the  upper  servants  in  plain  gen- 
tlemanly dress,  but  all  with  white  cravats,  which  are 
likewise  mostly  worn  by  the  gentlemen  in  dress.  The 
servants  not  in  livery  are  a  higher  rank  than  those  in 
livery,  never  even  associating  with  them.  The  livery  is 
of  such  a  description  as  the  master  chooses  ;  the  Duke  of 
Richmond's  were  all  in  black,  on  account  of  mourning 
in  the  family  ;  the  others  various,  of  the  most  grotesque 
description,  sometimes  with,  and  sometimes  without  wigs, 
and  always  in  shorts  and  white  silk  or  white  cotton 
stockings.  Many  persons  request  you  not  to  give  any 
gratuity  to  the  servants.  Others  forbid  them  accepting 
any  under  pain  of  dismissal  ;  and  at  the  house  of  a  noble- 
man of  high  rank,  I  found  a  printed  notice  on  my  dress- 
ing-table to  this  effect :  "  The  guests  are  particularly 
requested  to  give  no  gratuities  to  the  servants." 


T.KTTER    XI.  :V^ 

LETTER    XL 

London,  27lli  June,  1S43. 
My  Deae  M : 

A  FELLOW-PASSENGER,  Mr.  C ,  of  Baltimore,  lias 

just  called,  and  promises  to  deliver  this  in  Boston.  T 
hope  you  will  see  him.  I  have  nothing  in  particular  to 
inform  you.  Some  person,  whom  I  do  not  know,  scnit 
me  a  report  of  the  meeting  of  fanners,  at  Northampton  ; 
so  I  send  it  to  you.  Every  thing  of  that  sort  is  here 
taken  down  by  reporters,  and  published,  so  that  one 
must  be  careful  what  he  says.  I  am  more  than  full  of 
engagements  and  occupation,  and  my  great  difficulty  is 
to  find  time  for  any  thing.  This  is  what  is  called  the 
season  when  London  is  full  of  people;  it  is  always  full, 
but  now  I  believe  it  runs  over.  Where  all  the  peo- 
ple get  bread  and  lodging.  Heaven  only  knows.  No- 
thing like  the  msh  of  human  life  which  I  see  here,  ever 
before  met  my  eyes,  or  even  entered  my  imagination. 
Li  a  few  weeks  Parliament  adjourns,  and  tlien  I  am 
told  the  West  End  of  London,  at  least,  is  quite  still. 
It  has  been  altogether  important  to  remain  here,  with  a 
view  of  forming  acquaintances,  and  getting  instructions. 
I  leave  to-morrow  morning,  in  acceptance  of  several  invi- 
tations from  country  gentlemen,  and  shall  be  so  constantly 
cruising  about  until  winter  sets  in,  that  I  shall  hardly 
know  how  to  communicate  with  you ;  but  I  shall  do  it. 
I  go  to-morrow  to  visit  a  gentleman  in  Horsham.  Mr. 
Dickens,  to  whom  the  Duke 'of  Richmond  introduced  nic 
as  a  private  friend  of  his,  and,  as  they  say  in  England,  a 


34  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

very  clever  man.  After  that,  I  go  into  Hertfordshire,  to 
visit  a  Mr.  Antony  ;  then  I  go  to  Barton,  to  visit  Mr. 
Birch ;  then  to  the  great  Derby  Cattle-Show ;  then  with 
Lord  Spencer  to  Mr.  Childer's  in  Yorkshire  ;  then  to  the 
North  of  England,  to  Edinburgh,  and  farther  on  ;  then  in 
Staffordshire  a  week  with  Lord  Hatherton ;  then  into 
Cornwall  with  Mr.  Pendarves,  M.  P.,  and  lady,  among  the 
most  agreeable  and  kindest  people  I  ever  saw ;  then  into 
Cambridgeshire,  to  see  Lord  Hardwicke's  property  and 
family  ;  then  into  Norfolk  and  Wiltshire,  to  fulfil  engage- 
ments ;  then  into  Ireland,  to  be  at  the  Belfast  agricultural 
show,  and  so,  and  so  on,  engagement  after  engagement, 
with  gentlemen  who  have  invited  me,  whose  names  I  do 
not  remember,  but  who  have  promised  to  settle  the 
arrangements  at  the  Derby  Cattle-Show,  where  I  expect 
to  meet  the  largest  assembly  of  the  kind  ever  held  in 
England.  They  provide  for  more  than  fifteen  hundred 
at  the  public  dinner.  My  objects  continually  occupy 
me,  but  what  success  will  follow  the  execution  of  them, 
remains  to  be  seen.     I  shall  try  to  do  my  best. 

I  made  yesterday  some  visits  which  were  quite  unex- 
pected.    Mrs.  P made  me  promise  to  go  with  her, 

and  called  for  me  in  her  carriage,  at  2  o'clock,  with  a 
young  lady,  to  show  me  the  most  fashionable  millinery 
and  fancy  store,  and  the  largest  jewelry  store  in  the 
world.  The  capital  in  one  of  the  stores  is  £200,000 
sterling,  or  one  million  of  dollars  ;  in  the  other,  £300,000 
sterling,  or  a  million  and  a  half  of  dollars.  I  saw  a 
mere  envelope  case,  price  sixty-five  guineas ;  a  blotting 
book  for  a  lady's  table,  ninety  guineas ;  and  one  single 
set  of  jewels,  necklace,  broach  and  earrings,  £37,000 
sterling,  or  ^'185,000.     We  sober  people  in  America 


LETTER    XII.  35 

can  have  no  idea  of  such  extravagance,  and  yet  here, 
they  say  they  will  soon  find  a  purchaser  for  these  thinnjs. 
I  concluded,  after  considerable  self-restraint,  not  to  buy 

the  earrings  to  send  to  S ,  as  I  believe  she  does  not 

wear  them. 

I  have  talked  so  much  of  writing  in  haste,  that  I  will 
make  no  apology.  I  fear  I  shall  have  no  time  to 
write  to  any  other  person.  I  depend  on  hearing  from 
you  by  every  steamer  while  I  am  in  England.  I  shall 
become  homesick  presently,  I  know  ;  but  there  is  nothing 
to  be  said.  I  have  nothing  in  the  world  to  complain  of 
but  my  separation  from  my  family  and  friends.  God 
bless  you,  and  pray  for  me. 

P.  S.     I  forgot  to  mention  that  Mrs.  P took  me, 

yesterday,  to  see  the  wedding  gown  of  the  Princess 
Augusta,  the  Queen's  cousin,  who  is  to  be  married 
to-morrow.  The  gown  alone,  cost  only  200  guineas,  or 
more  than  a  thousand  dollars.  It  is  of  silver  and  silk, 
interwoven  and  covered  with  Brussels  lace. 


LETTER    XII. 

London,  2d  July,  1843. 
My  Deae  M : 

The  post-office  arrangements  here  are  capital.  Your 
letters  are  brought  to  you  six  times  a  day,  and  you  can 
send  to  any  part  of  the  city  six  times  a  day,  a  letter  less 
than  half  an  ounce,  for  one  penny.  There  are  post-offices 
in   every   principal    street.      Invitations    are   sometimes 


36  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    BIANNERS. 

received  and  answered  by  post ;  but  it  is  not  considered 
quite  polite,  unless  you  arc  on  a  footing  of  great  intimacy. 

I  have  such  a  variety  of  adventures  that  I  hardly  know 
where  to  begin,  and  do  not  feel  certain  that  I  shall  not 
tell  my  story  over  more  than  once. 

I  believe  I  gave  you  in  former  letters  an  account  of 
the  style  in  which  they  live  in  the  best  houses,  and  of 
some  jewelry  shops  I  had  seen,  and  likewise  the  wedding 
dress  of  the  Princess  Augusta.  These  I  know  are  very 
small  matters,  but  I  dare  say  such  little  details  have  an 
interest  with  you.  I  am,  you  see,  again  in  London,  having 
returned  here  last  evening,  from  a  delightful  visit  in  the 

country.     M may  set  down  what  she  pleases  to  my 

enthusiasm,  but  I  assure  you  I  color  nothing,  and  things 
are  really  as  beautiful,  as  tasteful  and  charming,  and  the 
people  as  intelligent  and  polite,  and  agreeable  and  kind, 
as  I  describe  them  to  be  ;  only  I  feel  I  cannot  do  the 
things  or  the  people  half  justice. 

I  went  on  a  visit  to  Mr.  Dickens,  whom  I  met  at  the 
Duke  of  Richmond's.  He  married  the  sister  of  the  Mar- 
quis of  Northampton,  and  occupies  a  family  seat  of  Lady 
N.,  the  wife  of  the  former  Marquis.  He  has  a  large  for- 
tune, gives  himself  to  agriculture,  horticulture,  literature, 
the  fine  arts,  and  all  that  constitutes  the  highest  and  most 
refined  delights  of  life.  There  were  eight  or  ten  persons, 
gentlemen,  lords  and  ladies,  staying  in  the  house  at  the 
same  time.  The  courts  were  in  session,  in  the  village, 
and  we  had  the  lawyers  to  dine  one  day,  and  I  dined 
with  the  court  and  bar  another  day  ;  and  you  may  be 
sure  all  that  could  be  done,  to  make  my  visit  agreeable 
and  instmctive,  was  done. 

The  ride  between  Horsham,  the  village  near  his  resi- 


LETTER    XII.  37 

dence,  about  thirty-three  miles  from  London,  wliich  I 
took  on  the  outside  of  a  stage  coach,  was  but  a  succession, 
for  the  whole  distance,  of  fine  gardens,  magnificent  parks, 
neat  villages,  beautiful  villas,  and  country  houses,  in  the 
irrimediate  vicinity  of  each  other,  with  trees  scattered 
around  them  in  the  most  tasteful  manner,  with  gardens 
as  pretty  as  they  could  be  made,  with  porticos,  windows, 
and  fences  and  yards,  filled  and  adorned  to  overflowing 
with  flowering  shrubs,  and  geraniums,  kalmias,  rhodo- 
dendrons, roses  perfuming  the  air  almost  to  satiety  and 
filling  the  eye  with  delight. 

Now  you  may  think  how  beautiful  they  are,  and  how 
much  pains  is  taken  to  adorn  even  the  humblest  cottage 
of  the  humblest  laborer. 

We  had  some  ladies  staying  in  the  house,  though  the 
lady  of  the  house  was  too  much  indisposed  to  go  out,  who 
invited  me  to  accompany  them  to  lunch  at  a  gentleman's 
seat  a  few  miles  off.  Here  my  imagination  would  be 
widely  at  fault,  to  conceive  of  grounds  laid  out  with  more 
taste  and  beauty,  a  house  better  filled  with  the  most 
elegant  books,  the  most  exquisite  drawings,  more  striking 
pieces  of  sculpture,  and  prettier  gems  of  souvenirs  and 
bijouterie,  or  a  lady  more  fitted  to  adorn  all  this  by  the 
cultivation  of  her  mind  and  the  elegance  of  her  manners. 

From  this,  after  an  agreeable  visit  at  Mr.  Dickens's,  I 
returned  to  London,  and  to-day  has  been  passed  in  a 
most  interesting  manner.  The  Duke  of  Richmond,  who 
has  been  most  kind  in  his  attentions,  took  me  to  visit 
Pentonville  model  prison,  three  miles  out  of  town,  and 
of  which  he  is  one  of  the  principal  governors.  The  great 
object  of  this  prison  is  to  see  what  can  be  done  for  the 
reformation  of  the  unfortunate  persons  who  are  subjected 
4 


38  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

to  its  penalties.  There  are  about  three  hundred  of  them. 
We  attended  service  in  the  chapel  where  they  were  all 
assembled  and  were  arranged  so  that  not  one  of  them 
could  see  another,  though  they  could  all  see  and  hear 
the  minister.  The  sermon  was  upon  Lying,  was  full  of 
practical  good  sense,  and  given  in  the  most  affectionate 
manner.  Being  so  situated  that  I  could  see  every  pris- 
oner, I  was  much  stnack  with,  as  I  thought,  the  evident 
emotion  discovered  when  the  prayer  of  the  litany  was 
offered  that  God  would  have  mercy  upon  "  all  prisoners 
and  captives."  I  could  not  help  observing  the  starting 
tear  in  several  eyes.  Most  of  them  are  young  men,  and 
are  to  be  transported  to  Australia,  after  being  confined 
here  a  year  or  eighteen  months  in  learning  some  profit- 
able trade. 


LETTER   XIIL 

Doncaster,  30th  July,  1843.     Cantley  Hall,  Yorkshire. 
D^AR  J : 

I  CAME  here  yesterday  to  visit  Mr.  Childers,  M.  P.  He 
is  largely  engaged  in  agriculture.  He  is  a  man  of  wealth, 
and  his  establishment  quite  princely.  Several  noblemen 
and  gentlemen,  members  of  parliament,  are  here,  and 
others  are  expected  to-morrow.  We  are  to  remain  here 
until  Thursday,  to  attend  the  cattle-show  and  agricul- 
tural fair,  which  lasts  from  Tuesday  until  Thursday  night. 
To-morrow  a  party  of  a  dozen  gentlemen  are  to  go  on 
horseback  to  visit  some  extensive  agricultural  improve- 
ments about  twenty  miles  off.  Mr.  Childers  mounts  us 
all.      It  is  difficult  to  exceed    the  luxury   and  elegant 


LETTER    XIII.  39 

comfort  in  which  these  people  live,  at  the  same  time 
leaving  their  guests  to  adopt  their  own  arrangements, 
which  are  generally  fixed  at  breakfast  for  the  day,  or  if 
those  do  not  suit,  to  make  their  own.  There  are  horses 
for  those  who  choose  to  ride  ;  pleasure-grounds  for  those 
who  choose  to  walk ;  books  for  those  who  like  to 
read ;  ladies  for  such  as  prefer  the  luxury  of  agree- 
able manners  and  elegant  conversation,  and  your  own 
chamber  always  furnished  with  writing  apparatus  and 
books  for  such  as,  like  me,  prefer  to  spend  to-day,  as  nearly 
as  I  can,  with  my  own  friends  over  the  watej .  I  have  felt 
that  keeping  house  to-day,  —  as  to-morrow  is  the  last 
mail,  —  was  more  of  a  duty  than  going  to  church  ;  so 
here  I  am  in  as  much  quiet  and  solitude  as  if  I  were  on 
an  island  in  Lake  Superior. 

I  got  your  letter  by  Mr.  Snyder.  It  was  of  an  early 
date,  and  much  shorter  than  I  like,  but  very  welcome. 
I  have  seen  many  things,  of  which  I  wish  I  could 
communicate  the  impressions  that  I  have  had  while 
fresh  ;  but  I  have  not  looked  upon  a  charming  landscape, 
a  fine  picture,  and  an  exquisite  piece  of  sculpture,  without 
having  you  in  my  mind  and  thinking  that  I  would  even 
cheerfully  resign  all  the  delight  which  they  have  given  me, 
to  you,  if  I  could  by  any  possibility  put  you  in  my  place. 

The  picture  galleries  at  Hampton  Court,  but  above 
all,  at  Chatsworth,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire, 
and  still  more  the  sculpture  gallery  at  the  latter  place, 
so  much  transcend  my  humble  notions  as  to  leave  me 
without  words  to  express  my  admiration.  Indeed, 
I  might  string  together  all  the  superlatives  in  my  vocab- 
ulary, and  they  would  do  no  more  than  justice  to 
the   beautiful   sculpture.     The    sculptured   wainscoting, 


40  KUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

made  of  cedar,  and  the  paintings  on  the  walls  and  ceil- 
ings, are  most  splendid.  One  or  two  statues  of  Venus 
and  some  Cupids,  with  others  which  I  cannot  particular- 
ize, and  the  painting  of  the  Capuchin  Chapel,  a  copy  of 
which  I  believe  you  saw  in  Boston,  are  triumphs  of 
human  genius  and  taste.  I  had  only  a  half  day, 
whereas  a  month  would  hardly  afford  sufficient  time  to 
examine  all.  I  saw  the  place  under  some  disadvan- 
tages, but  with  admiration  and  delight. 

The  scenery  in  many  parts  of  this  country,  picturesque 
and  beautiful  as  it  is,  is,  after  all,  inferior  to  a  great  deal 
we  have  seen  together  in  our  own  country  ;  but  here  you 
see  what  art  and  taste,  with  the  most  ample  wealth  at 
their  control,  are  able  to  accomplish.  The  income  of 
the  Duke  of  Devonshii-e  is  said  to  be  two  hundred 
thousand  pounds  sterling,  or  one  million  dollars  per  year, 
and  he  wishes  to  spend  the  whole.  There  were  fourteen 
hundred  deer  and  four  hundred  head  of  cattle  in  the 
open  park  round  the  house. 


LETTER    XIV. 

Doncaster,  30lh  July,  1S43.    Cantley  Hall. 
My  Dear  Friend: 

I  RECEIVED  your  letter  of  the  14th  inst.  this  evening. 
It  is  an  exceedingly  impudent  letter,  in  your  usual  style, 
and  just  like  you,  and  as  I  know  what  it  means,  I  sin- 
cerely thank  you  for  it. 

I  have  not  said  of  England  any  thing  more  than  it 
deserves.  I  like  my  own  country  and  its  institutions 
better  than  England  ;  but  I  do  not  know,  therefore,  that 


LETTER    XIV.  41 

it  is  at  all  necessary  to  undervalue  the  institutions  of  this 
country,  to  deny  the  excellent  qualities  of  persons  whom  I 
see  here,  or  ungratefully  to  disdain  the  kindness  and  hos- 
pitality with  which  I  have  been  treated.  There  is  here  a 
vast  amount  of  poverty  and  vice  and  misery.  Wherever 
extreme  poverty  exists,  vice  is  its  natural  concomitant, 
and  where  vice  is  there  must  be  misery.  I  do  not  at 
present  see  the  remedy.  Would  you  recommend  an 
entire  and  bloody  revolution  ?  This  would  be  a  fright- 
ful prescription.  I  am  not  certain  that  that  w^ould  cure  ; 
it  might  kill  the  patient,  or  leave  him  in  a  much  worse 
condition  than  before.  Most  persons  here  are  Malthusians, 
and  presume  to  say  that  the  human  race  is  propagated 
too  fast.  I  have  no  faith  in  these  unnatural,  miserable 
doctrines,  but  I  do  most  certainly  wish  and  pray  that 
some  means  could  be  devised  by  which  a  more  just  divi- 
sion of  the  products  of  industry  could  be  made,  and 
that  those  who  grow  the  bread  could  have  their  proper 
share  of  it.  I  do  not  think  they  have  it  here,  and 
hardly  in  any  other  country.  In  the  opinion  of  many 
persons,  there  is  little  chance  for  the  elevation  of  the 
lower  and  laboring  classes  until  the  rights  of  entail  are 
broken  up,  and  lands  are  brought  freely  into  the  market 
as  other  property.  On  our  side  of  the  water  we  think 
that  the  aristocracy  should  be  abolished,  and  a  new  aris- 
tocracy, not  of  rank  or  wealth,  but  of  talent  and  virtue, 
created.  Tliis  is  a  mere  dream  ;  and  until  human  nature 
is  greatly  altered  and  improved,  such  a  result  is  not  tp 
be  hoped  for,  even  under  the  most  favorable  circum- 
stances. 

The  great  consolation  in  the  case  is  that  philanthropy 
is  everywhere  most  active,  and  nowhere  more  active  thai^ 
4# 


42  EUROPEAN    LIFE     AND    MANNERS. 

in  some  of  the  higher  classes  here  to  devise  means  for 
improving  the  condition  of  the  humble  and  friendless, 
for  educating  them,  and  multiplying  their  comforts  and 
lessening  the  evils  under  which  they  suffer. 

But  I  shall  not  undertake  to  give  you  a  lesson  on 
political  economy.  It  is  very  late,  and,  as  you  see,  I  am 
very  sleepy.  I  hope  you  will  write  me  often.  You 
know  how  much  pleasure  you  can  give  me  if  you  will. 
I  am  thankful  for  a  while  to  be  free  from  the  political 
squabbles  which  prevail  in  America,  and  the  constant 
excitements  which  leave  no  man  at  rest. 


LETTER   XV. 

Doncaster,  Yorkshire,  30lh  July,  1843. 
My  Dear  Sir: 

I  THANK  you  for  your  kind  letter.     In  my  letters  to 

A I  have  mentioned  my  visit  to  Chatsworth,  the 

seat  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire.  I  have  a  book  which 
gives  prints  and  an  account  of  the  place,  but  I  cannot 
send  it  to  you  as  I  should  be  glad  to  do.  The  place 
probably  exceeds  any  other  in  the  kingdom  for  its  splen- 
dors within,  and  above  all,  its  beauties  without.  There 
is  a  kitchen-garden  of  twelve  acres,  filled  with  fmits  and 
vegetables  in  the  greatest  abundance  and  perfection. 
There  is  an  arboretum  of  a  great  many  acres  in  which  it 
is  designed  to  place  a  sample  of  every  tree  which  grows 
and  can  be  naturalized  to  this  climate.  Then  there 
is  a  conservatory  of  glass,  with  a  passage  large  enough  to 
drive  a  carriage  through,  three  hundred  and  eighty-seven 


LETTER    XV.  43 

feet  in  length,  one  hundred  and  seventeen  feet  in  breadth 
and  sixty-seven  feet  in  height,  with  seventy-six  thousand 
square  feet  of  glass  covering,  and  seven  miles  of  pipes  for 
water  with  which  to  heat  it.  There  is  an  aquarium  in  it, 
where  water  plants  are  raised  in  perfection,  and  there  is  a 
gallery  running  round  the  building  from  which  you  get  a  fine 
view  of  the  whole.  The  plants  are  among  the  most  rare  and 
beautiful  which  can  be  found,  and  the  Duke  has  one 
plant  merely  a  flowering  shnib,  for  which  he  sent  a  spe- 
cial messenger  to  India,  and  which  he  values  at  £2000. 
This  value  of  course  must  be  fictitious. 

A  peach  tree  in  the  green-house  measures  seventy  feet 
in  extent,  and  produced  this  year  eighty  dozen  peaches. 
The  vine  Wisteria,  on  the  back  of  the  stable,  extends 
forty-four  yards. 

There  are  two  oak  trees,  one  planted  by  Victoria  before 
she  came  to  the  throne,  and  one  by  Prince  Albert,  which 
are  watched  over  with  great  care  and  are  in  a  flourishing 
condition, —  a  happy  augury,  I  tmst,  for  a  union  so  pro- 
pitious to  the  best  interests  of  England. 

The  water  is  thrown  by  the  great  fountain  two  hundred 
and  seventy-six  feet,  considered  the  highest  jet  d'eau  in 
the  world. 

Chatsworth  embraces  thirty -five  hundred  acres.  The 
Duke  owns  in  the  county  of  Derbyshire  ninety-six  thou- 
sand acres. 

The  grounds  are  laid  out  with  surpassing  taste  ;  in  one 
part  you  see  a  Dutch  garden,  formed  in  square  lines  and 
alleys,  even  the  trees  shorn  and  shaped  to  a  particular 
form ;  in  other  places  the  natural  form  is  adopted  and 
presents  every  variety.  He  is  now  bringing  rocks  from 
a  considerable  distance,  some  of  them  said  to  weigh  ten 


44  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

or  twelve  tons,  with  a  view  to  make  an  extensive  fonnation 
of  grotto-work,  having  the  appearance  of  nature,  as  an 
entrance  into  his  conservatory.  The  grounds  round  the 
several  houses  embrace  six  or  seven  thousand  acres,  and 
the  park  is  as  beautiful  as  can  be  imagined.  There  are 
several  fountains  near  the  house,  a  river  flowing  in 
front,  some  artificial  ponds  set  like  mirrors  in  frames  of 
living  green,  and  besides  these,  some  waterfalls,  where  the 
water  descends  from  a  very  high  hill,  first  down  a  preci- 
pice of  perhaps  twenty  feet,  then  it  is  hidden  in  the  trees 
and  you  see  it  coming  down  another  about  thirty  feet  in 
a  different  direction  ;  then  it  is  seen  pouring  over  the  top 
of  a  high  tower,  in  a  single  large  sheet  of  sixty  feet  descent ; 
then  it  boils  up  over  a  grotto  in  several  beautiful  jets  d'eau  ; 
then  it  comes  down  in  a  rushing  cascade  over  a  broken 
inclined  plane  of  two  hundred  or  three  hundred  feet  in 
length,  and  sinks  into  the  ground  at  your  feet  and  dis- 
appears. 

The  interior  of  the  house  is  exceedingly  splendid  ;  the 
windows,  (most  of  them  of  only  two  panes,)  of  perhaps 
six  feet  in  length  by  four  in  width.  The  glass  is  of  such 
perfect  clearness  and  transparency,  that  you  can  scarcely 
believe  that  there  is  any  thing  to  intercept  your  sight  until 
you  put  your  hand  against  it  and  find  the  resistance. 
Indeed  the  long  galleries  of  most  beautiful  designs  in 
painting  and  sculpture,  the  magnificent  vases  of  the  most 
brilliant  spar,  the  exquisite  statues,  which  do  every  thing 
but  speak  and  breathe,  and  the  various  and  superlatively 
beautiful  bijouterie  and  souvenirs,  together  with  the 
mosaic  pavement,  the  carved  wainscoting,  the  inlaid 
oaken  floors,  and  the  splendidly-painted  ceilings,  form 
altogether  such  a  combination  of  the  productions  of  genius. 


LETTER    XVI.  45 

taste  and  skill,  as  is  quite  overpowering.  The  library  at 
Chatsworth  contains  thirty-one  thousand  volumes. 

I  went  after  this  to  see  Haddon  Hall,  an  ancient  castle, 
once  the  seat  of  elegance  and  luxury,  of  revelry  and  ban- 
queting, now  in  ruins,  its  halls  empty,  its  tapestry  defaced 
and  hanging  in  shreds,  its  turrets  overhung  with  ivy,  its 
paved  courts  overgrown  with  weeds,  and  all  its  magnifi- 
cence and  glory  departed,  a  most  striking  contrast  to  the 
other  scene.  So  human  pride  rises  and  sets  and  the 
fashion  of  the  world  passes  away.  I  dare  say  there  is  as 
much  happiness  at  Elfin  Glen  as  ever  was  in  these  gay 
halls,  when  illuminated  with  all  the  splendors  of  art  and 
honored  even  by  the  presence  of  majesty  itself. 

I  shall  not  go  into  winter-quarters  until  November ; 
although  we  have  had  but  one  warm  night,  more  than 
sixty  days  of  rain  since  I  have  been  in  England,  and 
weather  as  sombre  and  cold  as  October.  As  to  sun  and 
moon  they  have  quite  cut  my  acquaintance. 


LETTER    XVI. 

Doncaster,  Yorlcshire,  30th  July,  1843.     Cantley  Hall. 
My  Dear  A : 

I  REACHED  this  place,  about  one  hundred  and  seventy 

miles  from  London,  and  had  the  delight  of  finding  your 

joint  letter  and  others  waiting  my  arrival.     No  one,  who 

has  not  been  from  home  some  time,  can  appreciate  the 

value  of  such  documents  for  the  intelligence  which  they 

communicate,  the  assurance  which  they  give  us  that  we 

are  not  forgotten  by  those  by  whom  of  all   others  in  this 


46  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

world  we  would  most  wish  to  be  remembered,  and  for 
the  interchange  of  kind  affections  and  sympathies,  of 
which  they  are  the  medium.  While  I  am  occupied  in  the 
immediate  observation  of  what  is  new  and  curious,  I  get 
along  well  enough  ;  but  there  are  some  hours  of  solitude 
and  homesickness,  which  I  confess  in  many  cases  more 
than  balance  all  the  pleasure  which  one  at  other  times 
enjoys.  However,  there  is  no  use  in  this  sort  of  moral- 
izing, and  I  should  be  most  ungrateful  if  I  gave  in  any 
way  an  indication  of  disregard  or  indifference  towards 
the  extraordinary  hospitality  and  kindness  which  I  have 
received,  and   am  constantly  receiving.     My  last  letters 

to I  think  were  dated  about  the  16th  inst.  at  Barton, 

where  I  remained  until  Monday  last,  bringing  up  my 
journal  and  getting  a  little  recruited  from  the  fatigue 
which  I  had  had  the  week  previous.  On  Monday  I  left 
for  Derby,  fifteen  miles,  and  after  visiting  the  friends 
with  whom  I  had  lodged  the  week  previous,  found  a 
gentleman  waiting  for  me  to  visit  him  at  Belper,  about 
ten  miles  from  Derby,  the  seat  of  extensive  cotton 
manufacture,  and  where  the  famous  Arkwright  laid  the 
foundation  of  his  immense  fortune.  I  went  on  and 
passed  the  night  at  my  friend's  house,  in  the  midst  of  a 
populous  village,  and  yet  surrounded  on  every  side  with 
green  lawns,  with  shade  trees  of  the  most  beautiful  de-* 
scription,  with  parterres  of  flowers  in  all  their  pferfection, 
and  green-houses  and  conservatories  and  other  channing 
embellishments,  with  a  house  filled  with  books,  pictures, 
works  of  art,  and  some  other  works  of  a  divine  art,  far 
higher  than  human  skill  can  reach,  and  far  surpassing 
all  the  splendid  triumphs  of  genius  with  which  the 
grounds  and  the  house  abounded  ;  I  mean,  of  course,  some 


LETTER    XVI.  47 

very  agreeable,  intelligent  and  accomplished  women. 
My  adventures  with  two  of  them,  if  it  is  proper  to  call 
them  adventures,  have  been  rather  amusing.  One  of 
them,  about  thirty,  exceedingly  pleasing  and  gentle  in 
her  manners,  and  in  the   perfect  neatness  of  her  person 

and  dress,  not  unlike  our  friend M.  R. ;  the  other 

about  twenty-eight,  pretty  and  extremely  shrewd,  and 
what  is  certainly  very  rare  in  English  women,  with  a 
great  deal  of  fun  about  her.  We  had  staid  a  week 
together  at  Mr.  Fox's,  in  Derby ;  I  then  took,  as  I 
supposed,  a  final  leave  of  them,  not,  I  will  assure  you, 
without  a  good  deal  of  regret ;  but  on  going  to  Mr. 
Strutt's  at  Belper,  lo !  there  I  found  them  again.  The 
next  morning,  however,  they  were  leaving,  and  so  was 
I,  in  opposite  directions  ;  and  I  said  to  myself  this  must 
be  the  last  time ;  but  two  days  after,  when  I  was  wait- 
ing the  train  for  Rotherham,  who  should  make  their 
appearance  in  the  coupe,  that  is,  the  forward  car,  with 
only  room  for  three,  but  these  two  agreeable  ladies  again, 
with  one  spare  place,  which  I  occupied  for  about  an  hour, 
when  we  again  separated.  Three  days  after  that  we 
met  again  in  Gainesboro',  where  one  of  them  resides,  and 
yesterday,  on  my  return  from  Bransby,  I  had  again  the 
pleasure  of  crossing  their  path,  and  another  most  agreea- 
able  hour  with  them.  Now  there  was  neither  design  nor 
arrangement  in  all  this  ;  and  when  you  recollect,  in  a 
country  full  of  strangers,  how  glad  you  are  to  see  an 
agreeable  and  kind  face  which  you  have  seen  before, 
you  may  congratulate  me  upon  my  good  luck. 

After  leaving  Belper,  I  proceeded  by  train  and  coach 
to  Matlock.  This  is  a  seat  of  mineral  springs  and 
baths,  and  a  place  of  great  resort  for  the  pleasure-hunt- 


48  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

ing  world.  The  county  of  Derbyshire  is  regarded  as 
presenting  the  most  picturesque  scenery  of  any  portion 
of  England,  and  Matlock  the  centre  of  that  which  is 
most  beautiful.  It  is  indeed  extremely  beautiful,  and, 
excepting  in  its  populousness,  and  the  buildings  and 
churches  and  improvements  which  it  contains,  not  alto- 
gether unlike  the  scenery  between  Deerfield  and  the 
Hoosic  Mountain,  which,  I  dare  say,  you  have  not 
forgotten,  but  at  the  same  time  in  other  respects  inferior 
to  a  great  deal  of  the  scenery  in  our  own  country. 

Besides  the  natural  scenery  here  to  be  seen,  there 
were  many  other  objects  of  curiosity,  such  as  a  lead 
mine,  where  I  followed  the  excavation  more  than 
seventy  yards  under  ground  ;  and  two  other  caves  and 
quarries  of  much  larger  dimensions,  exceedingly  disagree- 
able from  the  cold  and  dampness  and  blackness  and 
holes,  and  caverns,  which  occasionally  indistinctly  pre- 
sent themselves  before  you,  and  exceedingly  beautiful  in 
many  cases  from  the  brilhancy  of  the  rock  crystals,  which 
often  presented  clusters  of  diamonds  in  one  splendid  and 
radiating  point,  and  from  many  curious  stalactites  which 
were  foraied  in  different  parts  of  the  caverns.  In  the 
Devonshire  cave  the  guide  brings  you  by  gradual  steps 
into  a  large  room,  which  is  lighted,  to  your  great  sur- 
prise, by  several  clusters  of  candles  arranged  in  different 
parts  of  it ;  in  another  place  you  fumble  your  way  along 
with  your  own  torch  and  your  head  inclined,  if  you  mean 
to  save  your  brains,  until  you  are  at  last  ushered  into  a 
large  apartment,  where  you  see  indistinctly  a  girl  moving 
about  in  a  high  gallery  several  feet  above  you,  when  pre- 
sently she  kindles  some  Bengal  lights,  lasting  for  a  few 
moments,  illuminating  every  part  of  the  cavern,  and  pro- 
ducing; a  striking  scene. 


LETTER    XVI.  49 

I  remained  at  Matlock  through  the  day,  and  went 
over  to  a  village  called  Bonsai,  where  they  were  holding 
a  wake.  Many  of  the  principal  villages  have  this  kind 
of  holiday,  which  begins  commonly  on  Sunday,  and 
lasts  through  the  whole  week.  The  villagers  give  them- 
selves up  to  frolicking  ;  the  neighborhood  turns  out ;  the 
tramps  and  vagabonds  come  from  the  country  round  ;  the 
gipsies,  have  an  encampment  near ;  and  in  general  the 
lowest  class  of  people,  for  no  others  attend,  devote 
themselves  to  play,  and  frolic,  and  drunkenness.  There 
is  nothing  very  inviting  about  these  wakes,  and  there 
can  be  no  doubt  that  they  lead  to  a  great  deal  of  immo- 
rality ;  but  every  thing  here  is  conservative,  and  the 
people  would  reject  any  proposition  to  abandon  these 
customs. 

From  Matlock  I  came  on  to  Chatsworth  by  private 
conveyance,  one  of  the  seats  of  the  Duke  of  Devon- 
sliire,  and  one  of  the  wonders  of  England,  if  not  of  the 
world  ;  but  of  this  I  have  already  given  an  account  in  an- 
other letter.  From  Chatsworth  I  went  on  to  Chesterfield,  a 
dismal  manufacturing  town,  or  rather  one  of  coal  quarries, 
and  thence  to  Sheffield.  Sheffield  is  next  to  Manchester 
in  point  of  populousness,  and  is  among  the  largest  towns 
in  the  kingdom.  The  town  is  exceedingly  dirty,  and  it 
seems  to  be  peopled  almost  exclusively  with  men  engaged 
in  manufactures,  and  seldom  washed,  and  with  women 
the  fit  companions  of  such  men,  I  of  course  give  you 
only  the  impression  which  the  streets  presented.  There 
are  in  the  suburbs  some  few  elegant  residences,  and  a 
public  botanical  garden  of  more  than  twenty  acres,  ex- 
tremely beautiful,  well  arranged  and  well  stocked  ;  and 
I  found  some  very  kind  people,  who  offered  me  every 
5 


50  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

attention.  I  had  no  letters  to  Sheffield,  but  in  coming 
from  Springfield  to  Boston  last  spring,  I  met  with  a 
Mr.  Moss  and  lady,  belonging  to  Sheffield,  whom 
I  found  agreeable  and  intelligent  people,  and  with 
whom  I  exchanged  cards.  I  aftei-wards  called  upon 
them  in  Boston,  and  offered  them  all  the  attention  in 
my  power,  which  was  not  much,  as  I  myself  was  just 
then  preparing  to  leave.  I  promised  to  call  upon  them 
in  Sheffield,  and  found  that  they  had  two  days  before 
arrived  from  America.  They  gave  me  a  kind  welcome, 
and  pressed  a  great  many  more  attentions  upon  me  than 
I  could  accept,  waiting  upon  me  often,  showing  me  the 
factories,  wishing  to  introduce  me  to  several  people  in 
the  town,  carrying  me  to  the  college,  the  botanical  gar- 
den, &c.,  he.  So  it  is,  that  an  attention  paid  to  stran- 
gers is  never  lost ;  and  much  time  as  I  have  devoted  to 
others,  as  you  know,  whom  I  have  met  with,  I  have  been 
much  more  than  compensated  in  the  kindness  shown  to 
me.  I  was  somewhat  amused  at  the  college  with  a 
marble  bust  of  Whitfield,  in  which  two  glass  eyes  were 
inserted,  so  as  to  exhibit  his  well-known  squint.     Adieu. 


LETTER    XVII. 

Doncaster,  30th  July,  1843. 
My  Dear  S : 

You  have  not  yet  favored  me  with  a  letter,  but  I  hope 

it  will  come  soon,  if  it  is  not  already  on  its  way.    You  see 

your  mother's  letters,  and  what  is  addressed  to  her  you 

know  is  joint  stock ;  but  on  the  contrary,  you  will  remember 


LETTER    XVII.  51 

that  what  she  writes  is  not  to  be  considered  as  your 
contribution. 

I  keej3  no  copies  of  my  letters ;  indeed,  1  have 
scarcely  time  to  write,  much  less  transcribe.  I  am  here 
to  attend  an  agricultural  show,  which  lasts  from  Tuesday 
until  Thursday  night.  My  host  is  a  member  of  Parlia- 
ment, and  the  house  is,  and  is  to  be,  full  of  gentlemen  of 
rank  and  character.  Here  agriculture  is  regarded  as  the 
prominent  interest  of  the  country,  and  gentlemen  of  the 
highest  standing  in  education,  political  influence  and 
wealth,  take  a  direct  and  personal  interest  in  it,  even 
in  its  minutest  details,  and  not  a  few  ladies  likewise. 
At  the  Duke  of  Devonshire's  place  a  Mr.  Paxton  is  his 
principal  agent  —  a  man  of  learning,  taste,  and  stand- 
ing. He  was  absent  when  I  was  there,  but  his  wife,  a 
very  energetic  woman,  was  about  going  out  to  look  after 
the  hay,  as  she  said  she  had  a  great  many  men  at  work, 
and  a  good  many  loads  cut,  and  she  was  going  to  see  if 
it  were  fit,  and  if  so,  to  order  it  got  in.  She  takes  the 
whole  superintendence  in  the  absence  of  her  husband. 

Col.  Perkins  advised  me,  by  all  means,  to  see  Chats- 
worth.  Should  you  see  him,  do  not  fail  to  tell  him  how 
much  I  have  been  gratified.  I  had  letters  to  the  Duke 
of  Devonshire,  who  called  upon  me  in  Derby,  and 
invited  me  to  visit  him.  Lord  Morpeth  likewise  obtained 
for  me  letters  and  introduction  to  the  place.  The  Duke 
was  absent,  but  I  received  every  civility  from  Mrs.  Pax- 
ton,  who  put  a  man  at  my  disposal  through  the  day.  You 
can  have  no  idea  of  the  beauty  and  improvements  of 
the  place  outside,  and  the  splendor  and  magnificence 
inside.  But  I  must  find  some  other  means  or  opportu- 
nity to  give  you  an  account. 


5^  EUROPEAN    LIFE     AND    MANNERS. 

After  the  cattle  fair  and  festival  here,  I  go  to  Dundee 
to  attend  the  Hij^hland  Show.  I  had  determined  to  go 
thence  to  the  north  extremity  of  Scotland,  but  I  hesi- 
tate, lest,  by  spreading  over  too  much  ground,  I  may 
fail  to  effect  my  purpose.  I  now,  therefore,  leave  my 
route  undetermined  until  I  reach  Edinburgh,  and  shall 
be  then  governed  by  circumstances.  We  have  rain 
almost  every  day,  cold  as  October.  We  have  had  only 
one  warm  night  this  season.  They  say  here  the  weather 
is  very  variable,  but  I  tell  them  it  is  quite  constant. 

I  have  met  with  a  good  many  Americans  abroad,  who 
in  general  seem  as  much  pleased  with  the  country  as  I 
have  been.  Those  persons,  however,  who  merely  travel 
in  railroad  cars  through  the  country,  can  see  it  to  very 
little  advantage. 

The  English  ladies  impress  me  very  agreeably.  I  do 
not  think  they  are  better  informed  than  the  same  class 
of  people  among  ourselves,  but  if  I  may  use  an  Hibern- 
ianism,  which  I  think  you  will  understand,  they  seem  to 
me  much  more  manly  than  most  of  our  women,  and  far 
more  independent.  They  have  quite  as  much  delicacy 
and  modesty,  but  no  affectation  or  fastidiousness. 


LETTER    XVIII. 

Doncaster,  31st  July,  1843. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  FEAR  you   will   think  it  extraordinary,  after  having 

sent  off  a  large  packet  of  letters,  one  for  yourself  among 


LETTER    XVII I.  53 

the  number,  that  I  should  write  to  you  again  to-day  ; 
but  what  pleasure  in  this  world  have  I  so  great  as  com- 
municating with  a  friend  of  forty  years  standing  ?  and 
in  our  separation,  what  substitute  can  I  find  for  personal 
intercourse,  but  communi(;ation  by  letter  ? 

Though  I  wrote  to  you  last  evening,  a  good  deal  has 
transpired  torday  to  interest  me,  but,  in  any  event,  you 
are  not  obliged  to  read  it.  I  will  give  you  an  account 
of  one  of  the  pleasantest  days  I  ever  passed  ;  and  though 
I  have  been  rather  fatigued  with  a  ride  on  horseback  of 
about  thirty-five  miles,  which  to  me,  so  unaccustomed 
as  I  have  been,  for  the  last  three  years,  is  no  small  effort ; 
yet  the  enjoyment,  upon  the  whole,  has  predominated 
over  all  fatigue,  and  I  find  myself,  just  having  left  the 
dinner-table,  at  11  o'clock,  quite  fresh. 

The  arrangement  was  made  last  evening,  to  breakfast 
at  eight  o'clock,  and  to  start  as  soon  after  as  practicable  on 
our  tour  of  observation.  Eight  of  us  were  mounted  by 
our  host  at  half  past  eight  o'clock,  and  off  we  galloped,  a 
sort  of  steeple  chase,  with  all  the  exhilaration  of  a  fine 
day,  and  with  capital  objects  in  view  ;  our  excursion 
was  altogether  agricultural  ;  and  our  first  visit  was  to  a 
meadow,  where,  by  a  movable  railway,  large  amounts 
of  loam  were  to  be  removed  on  to  peat  or  bog  land,  and 
the  meadow  brought  into  cultivation.  The  result  of 
what  had  been  done  exhibited  this  as  a  successful  and 
beautiful  experiment.  The  next  object  was,  an  experi- 
ment on  a  very  bold  scale,  no  other  than  the  redemp- 
tion of  four  thousand  acres,  in  one  body  of  peat  and 
bog  meadow,  into  arable  land,  and  this  all  undertaken  by 
the  capital  and  energy  of  one  individual.  On  this  place 
is  the  dry  bed  of  an  old   river,  filled  with    rich   alhn  ial 


54  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

deposites.  He  has  undertaken  to  excavate  this  bed  of 
mud  to  the  extent  of  eleven  hundred  feet  in  length, 
three  hundred  and  sixty  feet  in  width,  and  twenty-eight 
feet  in  depth,  all  of  which  is  to  be  dug  out  and  carried  by 
railroads  and  cars  the  necessary  distance,  and  spread  upon 
his  meadows  at  the  rate  of  eight  inches  in  depth.  He 
accomplishes  four  acres  per  day.  This  is  an  astonishing 
work  and  will  surely  succeed,  because  many  acres,  which 
have  been  already  redeemed,  present  the  appearance  of 
very  fine  crops.  The  next  object  was  several  miles 
further  off,  to  see  a  process  by  which  the  waters  of  a 
very  muddy  river  were  made,  by  dikes,  &;c.,  to  overflow 
extensive  tracts  of  land,  in  which  there  is  left  a  deposit 
of  eighteen  inches  of  mud  a  year.  This  is  called 
warping.  These  were,  you  may  be  sure,  most  interest- 
ing and  valuable  experiments,  and  prove  what  may  be 
done  for  land,  otherwise  worthless,  by  skill,  labor  and 
capital,  and  show  an  extraordinary  expenditure,  which, 
in  the  end,  fully  remunerates  the  proprietor. 

We  returned  through  a  beautiful  country,  to  dine  at 
seven  o'clock,  which  means  eight,  the  time  at  which  we 
actually  sat  down.  The  house  is  quite  full  of  noblemen 
and  gentlemen.  Lord  Morpeth  is  here  ;  Earl  Spencer  is 
here  ;  several  members  of  parliament ;  and  several  more 
are  expected  ;  and  the  party  being  highly  intellectual 
and  educated,  and  all  as  much  interested  in  my  objects 
as  if  they  were  tenant  farmers,  you  may  be  sure  there  is 
no  want  of  instruction  and  gratification.  There  are  only 
three  ladies  present.  As  direct  introductions  seldom 
take  place,  you  are  expected,  in  such  visits,  to  put  your- 
self in  polite  communication  with  those  who  are  near  you. 
There  are  some  gentlemen   here  with  whom  I  have  had 


LETTER    XIX.  55 

long  conversations,  and  who  have  asked  me  repeatedly 
to  visit  them,  whose  names  I  do  not  know.  We  have 
had  three  sumptuous  dinners  at  the  house  ;  what  is  to 
come  to-morrow  at  the  public  dinner,  and  the  next  day 
at  another  public  dinner,  where  plates  are  provided  for 
seven  hundred,  I  must  wait  to  see. 


LETTER    XIX. 

Edinburgh,  15th  August,  1843. 
My  Deae  M : 

I  SEE  by  this  morning's  papers  that  the  Caledonia  has 
arrived  in  about  thirteen  days'  passage  ;  and  I  wait  with 
impatience  for  my  letters.  I  hope  this  will  find  you  well, 
and  safely  returned  from  Niagara.  You  see  where  I  now 
am,  I  was  here  two  days  last  week  on  my  way  to  Dundee  to 
attend  the  great  Cattle-Show  and  meeting  of  the  Scotch 
Agricultural  Society,  about  sixty  miles  from  this  place. 
I  reached  there  a  week  ago  on  Tuesday  afternoon  and  re- 
mained until  Monday  noon,  when  I  went  on  to  Perth  and 
thence  to  this  place  yesterday.  While  at  Dundee,  after 
the  show  I  really  wanted  rest,  and  having  excellent 
lodgings  with  a  very  neat  and  kind  widow  woman,  I 
thought  it  best  to  take  that  time  to  bring  up  my  writing, 
which  keeps  far  behind  in  spite  of  my  utmost  exertions. 
Excepting  being  a  good  deal  indisposed  at  Dundee,  I 
enjoyed  myself  very  much,  and  obtained  information 
which  will  be  of  much  use  to  me.  I  am  now  much 
better,  and  intending,  with  the  exception  of  a  trip  to 
Glasgow,  to  remain  here  a  week,  am  satisfied  I  shall  be 


Ob  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

quite  well  again.  I  have  had  a  good  deal  more  fatigue 
and  excitement  than  even  I  can  get  along  with,  and  an 
almost  total  change  in  my  hahits  of  living  has  done  me 
no  service.  At  lodgings  I  live  as  I  please,  because  I 
order  only  what  I  want,  and  having  a  quiet  home  and 
my  old  simple  dinner,  I  have  been  much  better  for  it. 
You  will  be  amused,  perhaps,  in  the  absence  of  something 
better,  to  know  how  I  manage.  At  Dundee,  as  they 
expected  an  immense  crowd,  at  many  .houses  they  de- 
manded a  guinea  a  night  for  lodging  merely,  and  I  know 
some  persons  who  paid  it.  At  others  ten  shillings  (more 
than  two  dollars,)  at  others  five.  The  hotel-keeper  said 
he  was  overflowing,  having  already  forty  out,  but  would 
find  me  lodgings  for  ten  shillings  per  night,  and  meals 
were  to  be  extra,  at  least  ten  shillings  more,  besides  two 
shillings  per  day  for  servants.  I  told  him  I  would  look 
out  for  myself,  and  by  mere  chance  stumbled  upon  this 
good  place ;  the  lady,  a  woman  of  education  and  excel- 
lent manners,  who  had  seen  better  days,  the  widow  of  a 
lawyer,  who  asked  me  for  bedroom  and  parlor  in  a 
pleasant  situation,  two  shillings  six  pence  per  night,  and 
charged  me  with  what  she  purchased,  so  that  my  bill  for 
the  week  amounted  to  only  £  1  6s.  sterling,  a  little  more 
than  six  dollars,  instead  of  a  guinea  a  day.  She  said 
she  was  not  willing  to  be  an  extortioner,  and  was  amply 
paid.  I  am  quite  as  fortunate  here,  where  I  have,  after 
two  hours  search  yesterday,  got  into  excellent  quarters 
at  nine  shillings  per  week  for  my  lodgings,  and  they  get 
my  food,  I  paying  simply  the  cost  of  what  I  choose  to 
order,  whereas  I  could  not  live  at  a  fashionable  hotel 
here  under  a  guinea  a  day  ;  I  am  in  Princess  street,  the 
best  part   of  the  town,  more  comfortable,  and  quite  as 


LETTER    XIX.  57 

respectable.  So  much  comes  of  a  little  pains-taking,  and 
I  hope  after  a  little  more  experience  I  may  become  an 
economist.  Travelling  in  coaches,  however,  is  very  ex- 
pensive, and  though  I  never  ride  inside  when  I  can  ride 
out,  yet  one  gets  to  the  bottom  of  one's  purse  constantly 

much  sooner  than  you  expect  it.     I  send  Mr.  M the 

Dundee  paper  which  contained  my  remarks  at  the  Dinner. 
I  desired  the  Duke  of  Richmond,  as  I  had  now  become 
introduced  to  the  agricultural  public,  and  as  my  object  is 
not  to  make  speeches,  that  this  might  be  my  last  appear- 
ance in  this  way.  I  was  invited  to  the  council  dinner, 
which  consisted  of  about  three  hundred  persons,  but  as 
I  knew  I  should  have  to  speak  I  declined.  At  the  pa- 
vilion dinner  there  were  more  than  1200,  and  the  ar- 
rangements were  beautiful  and  elegant.  I  had  designed, 
after  the  Dundee  show,  to  have  gone  north  to  the  ex- 
tremity of  Scotland,  and  had  engaged  to  visit  the  Duke 
of  Richmond,  at  Gordon  Castle,  the  finest  establishment  in 
the  North,  and  to  go  to  the  Duke  of  Sutherland's,  still  far- 
ther north,  embracing,  as  he  says,  a  territory  so  large  that 
he  hardly  dares  say  how  much  ;  in  fact  about  three  million 
acres.  But  I  find  that  in  this  way  I  should  be  spreading 
over  too  much  ground,  and  so  have  concluded,  after  visit- 
ing some  of  the  best  farms  in  this  vicinity,  perhaps  the  best 
cultivated  in  the  world,  to  go  into  the  south  of  England, 
and  go  through  Scotland  next  season,  making  its  husband- 
ry and  that  of  Ireland,  a  distinct  subject  of  inquiry.  I 
shall,  therefore,  remain  in  Scotland  until  the  last  of  August, 
and  spend  the  remainder  of  the  season  in  England,  where 
I  have  already  engagements,  extending  far  into  the  win- 
ter, though  November  must  be  exclusively  appropriated 
to  writing,  as  I  shall  do  all  I  can  to  send  my  first  num- 


58  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

ber  out  by  the  first  packet  in  December,  and  my  second 
as  soon  after  as  practicable.  I  do  not  see  how  I  can 
effect  it  sooner.  I  have  several  letters  to  deliver  here, 
but  several  persons  to  whom  I  am  addressed,  are  absent 
on  the  Continent,  or  in  the  country,  as  this  is  the  season 
for  travelling,  and  for  grouse  shooting.  The  shooting 
season  is  not  allowed  by  law  until  the  12th  of  August. 
Before  that  time.  Parliament,  if  possible,  always  rises, 
or  the  attendance  becomes  very  thin,  members  of  the 
opposite  parties  pairing  off,  as  it  is  termed,  and  you  would 
be  astonished  at  the  number  of  persons  who  go  into  the 
country  shooting.  The  coach  office  was  yesterday  lite- 
rally piled  up  with  boxes  of  game,  directed  to  friends  in 
London,  as  the  fruits  of  the  first  few  days'  sport.  The 
hunting  season  does  not  begin  until  much  later,  and  un- 
til the  crops  are  off  the  ground. 

I  have  already  talked  too  much  of  myself.  Now  let 
me  say  something  of  this  city.  I  reached  here  last  week 
on  Saturday  evening,  or  rather  Sunday  morning  about 
half  past  one  o'clock  —  we  went  to  several  hotels,  but 
all  were  filled,  and  did  not  succeed  in  getting  housed 
until  about  two,  when  the  first  thing  that  arrested  our 
attention  (for  it  was  a  bright  moonlight  night)  was  a  fight 
between  two  well-dressed  women,  under  the  window, 
with  fists,  scratching  faces,  pulUng  hair,  and  plenty  of 
oaths  thrown  in  by  way  of  variety,  and  a  considerable 
party  of  men  and  women,  well-dressed,  but  of  what 
wretched  class  is  easily  surmised,  to  witness  the  affray, 
without  attempting  to  separate  the  combatants.  No  po- 
lice appeared  on  the  ground,  though  we  cried  out  for 
them,  and  this,  you  may  be  assured,  was  not  a  favorable 
impression  of  Edinburgh   to   begin  with.     In  the  morn- 


LETTER    XIX.  59 

ing,  I  strolled  out  for  church  and  was  led  by  curiosity 
into  the  Canongate,  where  John  Knox  was  accustomed 
to  preach,  and  to  look  into  the  Cow-gate  (gate  means 
way  or  road)  where  was  the  Grass  Market  referred  to  in 
Scott's  Heart  of  Mid  Lothian.  Here,  indeed,  was  such 
a  population  as  I  had  never  seen  before,  and  human 
beings  in  a  degree  of  degradation  and  lower  than  any  in 
which  I  had  supposed  it  possible  for  human  beings  to 
subsist.  The  filth,  the  nastiness,  the  nakedness,  the  drunk- 
enness, the  horrible  condition  of  the  streets,  and  yards,  the 
narrow  wynds,  the  dark  closes,  the  loftiness  of  the  houses 
(some  seven  and  some  eleven  stories  in  height,)  with 
family  piled  over  family,  without  a  foot  of  yard  room, 
or  even  the  most  common  conveniences  of  life,  staircases 
without  a  single  window,  or  any  light,  excepting  what 
was  admitted  by  the  opening  at  the  foot  of  the  passage, 
(for  no  outer  door  is  ever  hung  here,)  presented  a  hide- 
ous spectacle  ;  and  the  street  crowded  with  people,  bare- 
headed and  bare-footed,  exhibited  an  assemblage  of 
thousands  of  miserable,  starving,  drunken,  ignorant,  disso- 
lute, poor,  forlorn,  vvretched  beings,  in  the  midst  of  what 
is  called  a  Christian  community.  After  this  sight,  I  went  to 
church,  and  with  what  heart  I  leave  you  to  conjecture  — 
and  here  I  found  churches  crowded  with  people  full  of 
rancor,  breathing  anathemas  against  those  who  do  not 
agree  with  them  in  opinion,  and  contending  with  each 
other  with  all  the  fury  of  the  ancient  clans,  about  church 
government.  What  a  commentary  suggests  itself  to  a  re- 
flecting mind  !  It  seemed  to  me  to  resemble  nothinf 
more  than  a  contention  between  the  Priest  and  the  Le- 
vite  about  sacrifices  over  the  body  of  a  wounded,  robbed, 
and  bleeding  traveller  by  the  wayside.     These  people, 


60  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

too,  will  spend  their  thousands  and  thousands  for  mis- 
sions to  the  Heathen,  many  of  whom  are  really  more  of 
Christians  than  they  are  themselves,  and  neglect  their 
poor,  suffering  brethren,  wallowing  in  wretchedness  and 
destitution,  and  vice,  at  their  own  doors.  I  went  into  the 
Hospital  or  Almshouse,  where  they  have  provision  for 
giving  relief  to  all  the  poor  wretches  who  apply  for  lodg- 
ings in  the  night ;  and  they  told  me  they  had  received 
eighty-one  on  Saturday  night,  and  that  they  frequently 
had  more  numerous  applications.  I  had  supposed  I  had 
now  got  to  the  bottom,  but  to  the  lowest  deep  it  seems 
there  is  always  a  lower  depth,  and  when  I  went  to  Dun- 
dee, I  literally  found  it.  The  wretchedness  here  is  ex- 
treme, absolutely  extreme.  These  people  are  many  of 
them  engaged  in  linen  manufactories  ;  the  wages  of 
many  of  them  do  not  exceed  four  shilhngs  per  week,  out 
of  which  they  pay  three  shillings  and  six  pence  for  board, 
and  the  rest  goes  for  incidentals  and  clothing,  of  which 
indeed,  they  have  precious  little.  Their  living  consists 
of  oatmeal  porridge  and  a  little  milk  in  the  morning, 
potatoes  and  sometimes  bread  at  noon,  and  porridge 
again  in  the  evening,  and  they  work  fourteen  hours  in 
the  mills,  including  an  hour  and  a  half  for  meals.  Here, 
too,  the  condition  of  their  habitations  is  most  frightful. 
As  they  have  no  yards,  and  cannot  have  a  single  com- 
fort in  their  dark,  stone  dungeons,  they  all  come  into  the 
street  in  the  evening,  so  that  it  is  quite  difficult  to  get  along. 
Hardly  one  woman  or  child  in  twenty,  I  might,  perhaps, 
more  properly  say  one  in  fifty,  has  either  shoe,  stocking, 
bonnet,  or  shawl  on,  and  I  have  some  doubts  whether 
petticoat  either,  and  probably  are  not  washed  once  in  a 
month.    The  ofFensiveness  of  the  place  is  beyond  endur- 


LETTER    XIX.  61 

ance.  I  was  in  the  streets  half  a  dozen  times,  as  they 
were  directly  contiguous  to  my  lodgings,  w  hicli  were  in 
a  court  yard,  near  the  most  public  streets  in  the  town. 
Here,  too,  the  Christians  are  engaged  heart  and  soul  in 
fighting  against  heresy,  and  contending  about  church 
government.  Away  with  such  controversies,  miscalled 
religious,  from  the  earth.  They  spring  only  from  the 
grossest  selfishness  and  pride.  Whether  I  am  to  see 
any  thing  worse  or  not  I  cannot  say  ;  but  I  assure  you 
I  had  no  pleasure,  but  actual  misery,  in  joining  in  a  great 
public  dinner,  with  all  the  wit  and  cheers  and  huzzaing 
connected  with  it,  with  twelve  hundred  gentlemen,  while 
there  were  twelve  thousand  of  those  poor  wretches  out- 
side, who  did  not  get  a  good  meal  once  a  year,  and 
many  of  whom  were  actually  dying  of  slow  starvation. 
It  is  no  wonder  that  such  people  have  no  morals,  and 
as  you  may  see  in  passing  through  the  crowd,  are  utterly 
dissolute  and  vagabond  —  worse  than  all,  there  seems 
no  hope  of  mending  their  condition.  Directly  along 
side  these  places  you  see  shops  filled  with  gold  and  silver 
plate  and  the  most  expensive  jewelry,  and  shop  windows 
crowded  with  silks,  muslins,  ginghams  and  cloths  of  the 
most  elegant  description,  many  of  which  were,  no  doubt, 
made  by  the  very  hands  of  these  people,  and  yet  they 
are  scarcely  suffered  to  look  at  them.  There,  too,  in 
the  midst  of  all  this  wretchedness,  these  poor  creatures 
are  thrust  one  side  lest  they  should  be  run  over  by  the 
carriage  of  the  rich  man,  who  comes  lolling  in  his  chariot, 
with  a  postilion,  a  driver,  and  perhaps  two  footmen, 
with  their  powdered  heads  and  gold-headed  canes,  to 
serve  his  pleasure  or  his  pride.  I  am  quite  satisfied  that 
there  is  no  place  on  earth  which  I  have  yet  seen  or 
6 


62  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

read  of,  where  the  people  are  so  happy  as  in  New  Eng- 
land. 

I  intend  to  write  several  more  letters  by  this  packet, 
but  doubt  my  time  and  ability.  Remember  me  affec- 
tionately to  all,  and  don't  fail  to  write  by  every  steamer, 
for  I  am  constantly  homesick,  from  the  time  I  send  one 
letter  until  I  get  another. 


LETTER  XX. 

Edinburgh,  31st  August,  1843. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  AM  somewhat  concerned  lest  you  should  think  my 
letters  come  quite  too  often,  but  as  I  should  be  very 
sorry  that  a  steamboat  should  arrive  without  letters 
from  you,  it  seems  only  proper  that  I  should  do  my 
part.  As  I  keep  no  copy  'of  my  letters,  I  am  not  quite 
certain  where  I  left  off,  and  there  is  not  a  little  danger 
of  repetition. 

I  gave  you  an  account  of  my  visit  to  Dundee,  and 
my  return  to  Edinburgh.  This  was  on  the  15th  inst. 
On  Wednesday,  the  16th,  I  wrote  to  you.  On  Friday, 
I  went  by  railroad  to  Glasgow,  and  returned  at  night. 
On  Sunday  attended  meeting  all  day,  and  it  is,  I  assure 
you,  no  small  affair  to  get  through  a  Scotch  service ;  in 
this  case,  the  prayer  was  more  than  three-fourths  of  an 
hour  long,  and  the  sermon  two  hours. 

In  the  ruraJ  districts  in  Scotland,  the  two  services 
occur,  with  only  the  intermission  of  a  few  minutes, 
when  the  second  service  commences  with  singing,  prayers, 
and  sermon  as  before.     This  is  done,  that  the  people 


LETTER    XX.  63 

may  get  home  in  time  to  take  care  of  their  cattle,  and 
that  the  minister  may  not  escape  without  giving  them 
the  worth  of  their  money.  In  the  Highlands  the  second 
service  is  usually  in  the  Gaelic  language,  and  the  first  is 
of  the  length  of  two  ordinary  services.  The  preaching 
in  Gaelic,  accompanied  when  I  heard  it  with  the  greatest 
vehemence  of  gesticulation,  seemed  the  most  extraordi- 
nary splutter  you  could  listen  to.  The  congregation, 
however,  sat  very  quietly,  and  many  of  them  went  to 
sleep  under  all  this  hurricane  of  thunder  and  lightning  ; 
and  this  satisfied  me  that  it  was  mere  powder  without 
balls. 

On  Monday,  I  went  with  the  Rev.  Dr.  Richie  to  the 
top  of  Arthur's  Seat,  and  some  other  interesting  locali- 
ties ;  on  Tuesday,  22d,  visited  Mr.  Oliver,  a  very  large 
farmer  in  the  vicinity,  and  dined  in  the  evening  with 
Mr.  Rankin,  the  brother  of  our  friend  at  Canandaigua, 
who  has  been  exceedingly  civil  to  me  ;  on  Wednesday, 
23d,  visited  the  ruins  of  Roslin  Castle,  about  seven  miles 
from  the  city.  The  ruins  of  Roslin  Castle  present  a 
very  dilapidated  and  broken  appearance.  A  portion  of 
the  walls  are  fitted  up  as  the  summer  residence  of  some 
gentleman's  family ;  the  parts  shown  to  strangers  present 
what  were  once  halls,  kitchens  with  immense  fire-places, 
guard-rooms  used  as  barracks  for  the  soldiers  or  armed 
men  of  the  castle,  and  dungeons  for  prisoners,  which 
must  have  been  gloomy  enough.  The  picturesque  beauty 
of  the  situation  is  remarkable.  You  enter  the  yard  of 
the  castle  by  a  very  high  bridge  crossing  a  deep  ravine 
or  gully,  over  which  was  formerly  a  draw-bridge,  raised 
at  pleasure  for  the  protection  of  the  castle.  The  ruins 
of  the  castle  stand  upon  the  side  of  rather  a  high  and 


64'  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

Steep  hill,  the  side  of  which  is  principally  covered  with 
trees  and  shrubbery,  and  overlooking  a  deep  glen,  at  the 
bottom  of  which  runs  a  gurgling  and  gushing  stream, 
the  murmurings  of  which  you  hear,  and  of  whose  waters, 
sparkling  in  the  sun,  you  sometimes  catch  a  glimpse. 
On  certain  days  of  the  week  you  are  permitted  to  follow 
this  stream  on  foot  through  the  charming  grounds,  full 
of  rural  beauty,  of  Hawthornden,  being  the  very  improved 
residence  of  a  gentleman  of  fortune.  The  castle  over- 
looks a  country  distinguished  by  many  forms  and  objects 
of  rural  and  sylvan  beauty. 

But  what  is  worth  seeing  far  more  than  the  castle  is 
Roslin  Chapel,  very  near  by,  a  ruin,  but  much  of  it  in 
fine  preservation.  I  have  seen  no  min  in  England  pre- 
senting so  much  architectural  beauty  and  taste.  Its 
size  is  moderate,  though  actually  much  larger  than  it  ap- 
pears to  the  eye.  Its  arches  and  columns  are  wrought 
with  exquisite  skill ;  so  is  the  window  over  the  altar, 
which  has  been  restored.  Almost  every  part  of  it  is 
crowded  with  carving  in  stone,  somewhat  rude  and  some- 
what defaced  by  time,  but  most  elaborate  and  curious  ; 
representing,  under  allegorical  figures  and  forms,  the 
great  acts  of  mercy  in  the  25th  chapter  of  Matthew, 
and  the  fate  of  the  vices  of  avarice,  dissoluteness,  and 
pride.  What  always  attracts  attention  here  is  what  is 
called  the  apprentice's  column :  it  is  said  that  when  in 
building,  the  architect  desired  to  form  a  fluted  and 
twisted  column  of  peculiar  construction,  he  was  unable 
to  accomplish  it,  and  went  into  Italy  to  get  instruction. 
On  his  return  he  found  his  design  admirably  executed 
by  one  of  his  apprentices,  whose  success  so  much  irri- 
tated him  that  he  killed  him  on  the  spot.     The  head  of 


LETTER    XX.  65 

the  apprentice  is  carved  in  a  niche  of  the  wall  and  tlie 
head  of  his  mother  with  a  tear  dropping  from  her  eye 
for  his  loss. 

Over  a  confessional,  adjoining  the  chapel,  a  roof  is 
formed  of  flat  stones  interlocking  and  supporting  each 
other,  the  firmness  and  ingenuity  of  which  fill  one  with 
admiration. 

Not  one  of  the  least  curiosities  of  the  place  is  the 
guide,  who  in  a  most  peculiar  tone  and  manner  gives 
you  the  history  of  the  place  and  fully  explains  all  the 
columns,  arches,  figures  and  allegories.  It  is  given  in  a 
sort  of  recitative  in  the  most  grave  manner ;  and  be  sure 
you  don't  disturb  the  poor  man  in  his  lessons ;  it  is  fatal 
to  him  if  he  drops  a  stitch,  and  he  must  begin  and  do 
his  work  all  over  again. 

On  Thursday  I  left  Edinburgh  for  Auchternuchty,  to 
visit  Myer's  Castle,  the  seat  of  the  brother  of  our  good 
friend  Mr.  Greig  at  Canandaigua.  On  Friday,  took  an 
agricultural  excursion  with  Mr.  Greig.  On  Saturday 
took  a  second  with  Col.  Miller,  a  very  large  farmer. 
On  Sunday  walked  three  miles  to  church  all  day.  On 
Monday,  28th,  returned  to  Edinburgh  by  coach.  On 
Tuesday,  29th,  dined  with  a  party  of  farmers  with  Mr. 
Oliver  at  Lochend,  and  spent  the  day  on  horseback 
riding  over  his  and  some  of  the  neighboring  farms,  and 
seeing  the  best  cultivation  that  has  ever  as  yet  come 
under  my  observation.  On  Wednesday,  30th,  at  six 
o'clock,  went  to  the  lamb-market ;  at  eight  o'clock  to 
the  cattle-market ;  at  eleven  o'clock  to  the  oat  and  bar- 
ley-market ;  at  twelve  o'clock  to  the  wheat-market ;  at 
two  o'clock  to  the  corn-market ;  afterwards  I  accompanied 
some  American  friends  to  different  parts  of  the  city. 
(5# 


66  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

Now  my  arrangements  for  the  next  few  days,  are  to 
go  to  Dalkeith  to-morrow  by  raih'oad,  with  Mr.  Rankin, 
and  to  return  and  dine  with  him  with  some  gentlemen 
in  the  evening ;  to  go  to  Drummore,  about  seven  miles, 
to  visit  Mr.  Aichison,  a  highly  intelligent  and  extensive 
farmer.  My  further  plans,  however,  I  need  not  detail. 
My  visit  at  Auchternuchty  was  most  delightful.  Mr. 
Greig  is  a  well-educated  lawyer,  and  his  lady  full  of 
good  deeds  among  her  poorer  neighbors,  as  I  myself 
witnessed.  There  are  three  sons  in  America  and  four 
daughters  at  home,  and  exactly  such  people  as  I  like, 
caring  not  for  show,  but  for  substance  ;  highly  accom- 
plished, with  great  taste  for  music,  full  of  curiosity  and 
intelligence,  with  not  a  little  enthusiasm  in  their  religion. 
In  the  great  division,  which  has  recently  taken  place  in 
the  Scotch  church,  when  four  hundred  ministers  all  re- 
signed their  livings  in  one  day,  the  daughters  go,  as 
women  are  apt  to  do,  with  the  anti-government  party. 
The  whole  party  at  present  belong  to  the  church  mili- 
tant. May  they  be  so  happy  as  to  join  the  church  tri- 
umphant !  How  far  such  controversies  will  conduce  to 
that  end,  I  must  leave  others  to  judge.  I  think  there 
must  be  in  that  case  some  qualification. 


LETTER    XXI. 

Edinburgh,  31st  August,  1843. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  AM  quite  satisfied,  that,  in  many  matters,  the  people 
here  are  much  in  advance  of  us.  In  expense  and  lux- 
ury,   in    style    and    furniture,    we,    of    course,    cannot 


LETTER    XXI.  67 

approach  them  ;  but,  in  the  condition  of  their  general 
population,  they  are  behind  us  in  New  England,  and  in 
the  information  and  improvement  of  the  better  classes, 
they  are  not  such  a  great  way  in  advance  as  has  been 
sometimes  assumed.  In  the  elegancies  of  life,  in  ar- 
rangements for  domestic,  or  rather  household  comfort, 
in  works  of  art,  in  the  substantial  character  and  expen- 
siveness  of  their  structures  and  palaces,  in  their  gardens, 
parks,  and  hunting-grounds,  we  cannot,  of  course,  come 
into  comparison  with  them.  You  would  be  surprised  at 
the  extent  of  their  farming.  Mr.  Oliver,  the  farmer 
with  whom  I  dined  on  Wednesday,  pays  an  annual 
rent  of  more  than  five  thousand  dollars  for  his  farm, 
which  he  has  on  a  lease  of  nineteen  years ;  and  Mr. 
Finnic,  whom  I  mentioned,  has  this  year  six  hundred 
acres  under  the  plough  ;  both  of  them,  though  rich  men, 
are  only  tenants.  The  tables  of  some  tenant  farmers, 
who  are  men  of  wealth,  are  covered  with  silver,  and 
furnished  with  wines  of  the  most  costly  character. 
They  took  me  to  visit  the  farm  of  a  Mr.  Hope,  in 
their  neighborhood,  who  also  is  a  tenant,  and  who  has 
made  a  fortune  of  sixty  thousand  pounds,  or  about  three 
hundred  thousand  dollars,  by  farming.  I  never  saw  cul- 
tivation so  fine  as  his  farm,  and  the  extent  of  his  cultiva- 
tion is  absolutely  immense.  The  farmers  here  are  what 
we  should  call  gentlemen-farmers.  They  never  do  the 
slightest  work  of  any  kind  themselves,  but,  then,  they 
are  thoroughly  acquainted  with  their  business,  and  make 
it  as  much  matter  of  study  and  calculation  as  any  pro- 
fessional man,  or  merchant  does  his  business.  They 
have  none  of  their  laborers  in  their  houses,  and,  in  most 
cases,  the  laborers  provide  for  themselves.     You  woujd 


68  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

be  surprised  to  find  how  poorly  they  hve  ;  at  least,  we 
should  think  it  so.  They  have  oat-meal  pomdge  and 
skim  milk  for  breakfast,  bread  and  potatoes  for  dinner, 
with  beer,  and  porridge  again  at  night.  They  cook 
their  porridge  for  themselves,  and  I  was  going  to  add, 
do  their  own  washing,  but  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  a 
Scotch  laborer  never  sees  any  washing,  either  for  his 
person  or  his  clothes.  The  degree  of  dirt  in  which  they 
live  in  a  Scotch  bothie  is  unsurpassed.  I  have  forgotten 
to  tell  you  how  fine  the  small  fruits  are  here  —  goose- 
berries, currants,  strawberries,  and  raspberries.  Straw- 
berries were  in  the  market  when  I  arrived,  or  rather  in 
May,  and  are  still  to  be  had.  They  are  sold  now  for 
about  twelve  and  a  half  cents  a  pint,  and  the  best  rasp- 
berries for  less.  I  saw  strawberries  in  Dundee  of  which 
ten  weighed  a  pound,  and  one  I  measured  was  nearly  as 
long  as  my  little  finger. 

I  have  seen  with  delight  that  the  Acadia  has  arrived, 
and  I  have  sent  to  London  for  my  letters. 


LETTER  XXn. 

Derby,  2cl  September,  1845. 
My  Dear  J——: 

I  AM  not  willing  to  postpone  longer  writing  to  you, 

though,  as  I  am  under  marching  orders  this  morning,  it 

must  be  a  hasty  and  indifferent  letter.     I  was  delighted 

to  find  you  had  once  more  reached  the  blessed  land  of 

New  England,   after  various   perils  of  life   and    health 

by  land  and  sea,  and  to  learn,  by  your  mother's  last  let- 


LETTER    XXII.  69 

ters,  that  your  imperfect  liealth  is  fast  being  improved, 
and  that  you  have  been  re-creating  yourself  on  the 
charming  banks  of  the  Connecticut,  and  among  the  pic- 
turesque mountains  and  valleys  of  New  Hampshire.  In 
point  of  scenery,  within  my  knowledge,  there  is  nothing 
more  varied  and  beautiful  than  the  whole  course  of  the 
Connecticut  River,  which  I  have  followed,  as  few  others 
have  done,  from  its  mouth  to  its  very  source  ;  and  I 
may  almost  say,  with  a  continually  increasing  admiration 
of  its  beauty.  Few  travellers  go  higher  than  Lancaster 
or  Littleton ;  but  there  is  the  Maidstone  valley  and 
meadows,  several  miles  above,  where  the  windings  of 
the  river,  the  rich  intervals,  the  green  and  rugged  banks, 
and  the  bold  mountain  scenery  in  the  background,  com- 
bine to  present  a  landscape  or  coup  cVceil,  on  a  smaller 
scale,  and  exhibiting  far  less  indications  of  civilization 
and  improvement,  but  in  luxuriance,  variety  and  pictur- 
esqueness,  not  surpassed  by  all  the  gorgeousness  and 
splendor  of  the  view  from  Mount  Holyoke.  The  whole 
of  that  region,  and  indeed  the  whole  of  the  eastern  and 
northern  parts  of  Vermont,  in  the  progress  of  luxury 
and  wealth  in  the  United  States,  are  destined  to  become 
as  classical  to  tourists  as  the  lochs  and  glens  of  Scot- 
land, and  some  of  the  most  admii-ed  parts  of  Switzer- 
land, if  railroad  despatch  does  not  destroy  all  taste  for 
the  delicious  recreations  of  other  modes  of  travelling ; 
and  men  do  not  lose  all  patience  for  any  other  way  of 
transition  or  locomotion,  than  riding  upon  the  back  of 
a  flying  dragon,  soaring  in  a  balloon  in  a  hurricane,  or 
being  shot  out  of  a  cannon's  mouth.  For  my  part, 
excepting  the  despatch  and  the  convenience,  I  hold  rail- 
road travelling  in   detestation  ;  and   the  rattling  of  iron 


70  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

wheels,  and  the  whizzing  of  steam-engines,  and,  above 
all  things,  that  unearthly  shriek,  a  railroad  whistle,  are 
become  perfect  objects  of  distress  to  me ;  and  I  regard 
them  with  deep  aversion,  compared  with  a  seat,  in  a 
fine  day,  on  the  box  of  a  stage-coach,  behind  four  well- 
caparisoned  and  well-trained  and  fleet  horses,  up  hill 
and  down  dale  ;  or,  what  is  even  better  still,  an  easy  sad- 
dle, on  the  back  of  a  kind  and  sure-footed  pony,  as  I 
once  went  through  the  Notch  of  the  White  Hills.  In- 
deed, many  parts  of  Vermont  and  the  mountainous 
regions  of  New  Hampshire,  and  the  northern  parts  of 
Maine,  as  far  as  picturesque  scenery  is  concerned,  are 
full  of  romantic  beauty  and  sublimity  to  the  man  of 
taste,  though  unsignalized,  as  in  Scotland,  by  the  remi- 
niscences of  freebooters  and  buccaneers,  or,  as  in  Swit- 
zerland, by  the  daring  deeds  of  an  heroic  patriotism. 
This  country  is  now  much  cut  up  by  railroads,  and  is 
destined  soon  to  be  completely  webbed  over  like  net- 
work, and,  for  aught  I  see,  a  stage-coach  will  presently 
be  a  curiosity  to  be  looked  at  in  a  museum  of  anti- 
quities. 

I  confess,  though  I  used  to  think  the  climate  of  New 
England  was  such  as  a  reasonable  man  might  be  very 
well  satisfied  with,  yet,  when  I  hear  at  one  time  of  the 
mercury  twelve  degrees  below  zero,  and,  at  another 
time,  one  hundred  and  one  above,  in  the  even  tempera- 
ture of  this  climate  I  begin  to  feel  some  little  concern 
about  the  freezing  or  the  broiling  state  of  my  friends  at 
home.     Adieu. 


LETTER    XXIII.  71 

LETTER  XXIII. 

Galashiels,  15th  September,  1843. 
My  Dear  A : 

I  LEFT  Edinburgh  yesterday  noon  on  my  return  south, 
and  stopped  at  this  place  to  enjoy  a  view  of  what  we 
deemed  the  most  remarkable  ruins  in  the  whole  country, 
the  mins  of  Melrose  Abbey,  and  another  sight,  of  even 
more  interest,  the  house  of  Walter  Scott,  at  Abbotsford. 
This  is  in  truth  almost  the  only  day  since  I  have  left 
London,  that  I  have  given  to  objects  having  no  direct 
connection  with  my  great  purpose  ;  but  for  me  to  have 
omitted  a  sight  of  these,  would  be  like  a  traveller  going 
from  Rochester  to  Buffalo  without  turning  aside  to  look 
at  Niagara.  These  places  are  interesting  as  showing 
the  perfection  to  which  architecture  and  sculpture  have 
attained  in  ages,  which,  with  good  reason,  we  pronounce 
the  dark  ages.  They  excite  amazement  at  the  enor- 
mous power  which  superstition  wielded  in  these  periods, 
so  as  to  accomplish  works,  which,  at  present,  the 
wealth  of  a  kingdom  could  hardly  effect ;  and  they  pre- 
sent in  every  pillar,  and  arch,  and  altar,  a  study  for  the 
philosophical  mind  ;  and  reminiscences  of  bygone  days 
and  years  that  are  mingled  in  the  vast  ocean  of  eternity, 
cluster  and  hang  about  tli«m,  like  the  leaves  of  ivy  which 
cover  their  walls.  My  visit  to  Abbotsford  was  deeply 
interesting ;  I  cannot  now  stay  to  describe  it.  The  house 
is  a  curious  structure,  but  by  no  means  so  spacious  as 
the  pictures  represent,  and  in  its  dimensions  far  from 
being  extravagant  for  a  private  gentleman   of  fortune. 


tS  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

But  its  great  interest  consists  in  the  multiplied  mementos 
associated  with  every  part  of  it,  with  that  mighty  mind, 
which  has  wielded,  and  will  continue  to  wield  so  despotic 
an  empire  over  the  imagination,  the  thoughts  and  affec- 
tions, I  may  say  of  the  whole  civilized  world.  Several 
strangers  were  at  the  gate  as  I  entered,  several  had  been 
and  gone  that  morning.  The  register  showed  a  long 
list  of  names  for  every  day,  for  a  long  time  back.  This 
is  the  unbought  homage  to  genius.  Here  is  a  man 
occupying  comparatively  an  humble  position  in  society, 
without,  in  the  beginning,  title  or  wealth,  solely  by  the 
splendor  of  his  talents,  illuminating  as  it  were  the  whole 
hemisphere  of  thought,  and  commanding  the  homage  of 
pilgrims  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  coach  brought 
me  to  this  place,  and  I  have  walked  to-day  about  twelve 
miles,  and  to  save  two  miles  had  to  ford  the  Tweed, 
with  my  trousers  and  shoes  in  my  hands,  not  a  very 
pleasant  operation,  upon  stones  of  all  angles  and  shapes, 
which  the  water,  though  constantly  flowing  over  them, 
had  done  little  to  soften. 

I  was  some  time  in  Edinburgh  and  its  vicinity.  I  made 
several  visits  to  farms  in  its  neighborhood,  which  within  a 
circuit  of  twenty  or  thirty  miles  embraces  probably  the 
best  cultivated  district  in  Great  Britain,  probably  in  the 
world.  On  Friday,  I  went  to  a  farm  where  the  farmer 
pays  about  ^'10,000  a  year  rent,  or  about  £2000,  and  he 
and  his  two  brothers  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of 
each  other,  had  more  than  four  hundred  people  engaged 
in  harvesting  and  threshing.  I  went  into  a  cottage,  where 
one  of  the  laborers  told  me  he  had  lived  on  the  fann 
more  than  fifty  years,  and  another  said  he  had  been  there 
sixty  years.     I  wonder  what  our  laborers  would  say  to 


LKTTER    XXIV.  73 

such  keeping  as  the  Scotcli  laborers  have,  oat  porridge  and 
skim  milk,  or  butter-milk  for  breakfast,  a  pound  of  bread 
and  a  bottle  of  small  beer  at  noon,  and  supper  like 
breakfast,  at  night,  without  lunch  or  any  thing  else  of 
any  kind,  and  a  shilling  per  day  for  their  labor. 


LETTER  XXIV. 

Galashiels,  Sept.  15,  1843. 
Mv  Dear  M : 

I  HAVE  been  very  glad  to  hear  you  have  had  the 
recreation  of  a  visit  into  the  country. 

On  the  head  of  this  sheet,  you  will  see  a  picture  of 
the  ruins  of  Melrose  Abbey,  which  I  have  recently 
visited.  This  picture  does  not  at  all  exaggerate  their 
beauty,  and  indeed  it  is  very  difficult  to  form  a  just  idea 
of  them  without  inspection.  The  Abbey  dates  back  as 
far  as  1176,  and  was  destroyed  in  the  sixteenth  century. 

The  ruins  are  of  a  large  building ;  many  of  the 
columns  and  arches  of  doors  and  windows  are  entire  ; 
they  are  of  a  reddish  sand-stone,  and  exhibit  great  finish 
and  beauty  of  construction,  without  any  profusion  of 
ornament. 

The  ornamented  parts  of  the  Abbey  are  of  a  simple 
character,  being  principally  single  flowers,  and  wreaths 
of  flowers,  though  on  the  chimneys  or  roofs  there  are 
some  grotesque  images.  The  tomb  of  one  of  the  early 
kings  is  pointed  out  within  the  walls,  and  that  of  Michael 
Bruce,  the  celebrated  wizard.  These  ruins  are  indeed 
an  object  of  great  interest.  A  new  roof,  composed  with 
7 


74  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

great  skill  of  flat  stones  taken  from  a  former  roof,  was 
built  over  the  entrance  aisle,  in  order  to  use  that  portion 
of  the  building  for  a  parish  church.  It  is  now  given  up 
for  that  purpose.  The  marks  of  the  balls  from  Crom- 
well's guns,  the  first  Cromwell,  who  destroyed  the 
Abbeys  in  England,  are  shown  upon  the  walls,  and  their 
appearance  would  lead  you  to  infer  that  they  were  very 
hard  knocks,  and  the  dilapidated  and  overturned  statues, 
and  broken  ornaments,  are  witnesses  of  the  ferocity 
of  the  Scotch  Reformers.  The  Presbyterians  seem  to 
have  had  a  particular  spite  against  everything  orna- 
mental, and  the  seceding  churches  which  they  are 
now  putting  up  all  over  Scotland,  the  most  awkward 
and  ugly  erections  you  can  think  of,  show  that  in  this 
respect  they  have  made  no  advances.  The  Cath- 
olics and  Episcopalians  have  always  been  distin- 
guished for  their  architectural  taste,  and  the  exquisite 
embellishments  of  their  churches.  The  Presbyterians 
and  Covenanters  seem  to  abjure  all  taste  ;  and  it  cannot 
be  denied,  that  in  this  respect  they  still  faithfully  adhere 
to  their  principles. 

The  ruins  of  Melrose  Abbey  are  seen  to  great  advan- 
tage. The  guide  recognized  me  as  an  American,  and  I 
am  very  sorry  to  say,  she  complained  that  many  Amer- 
icans who  had  been  there  had  broken  off  and  plundered 
some  of  the  ornaments.  The  only  authority  on  which 
she  could  be  justified  in  casting  this  reproach  upon  the 
Americans,  appears  to  be  from  the  fact,  that  one  Amer- 
ican lady  had  boasted  that  she  had  done  it.  What 
American  lady  it  could  have  been,  it  would  be  rather 
difficult  to  discover. 

The  village  of  Melrose  is  most  picturesquely  situated 


LETTER    XXIV.  75 

in  the  midst  of  a  romantic  country.  At  half  past  six 
o'clock  I  went  about  five  miles  to  dine  at  Cowdin  Knowse, 
with  Mr.  Gilfellan.  We  crossed  the  Tweed  and  reached 
the  Leda,  crossing  which,  above  its  junction  with  the 
Tweed,  we  followed  up  its  banks  until  we  reached  the 
residence  of  Mr.  Gilfellan,  an  old  mansion  of  the  thir- 
teenth century,  with  two  large  watch-towers  still  stand- 
ing. One  of  the  former  owners  was  a  baron  or 
magistrate,  who  had  what  was  called  the  power  of  "  pit 
and  gallows,"  that  is,  of  life  and  death  over  his  vassals. 
The  pit,  or  place  for  the  confinement  of  his  prisoners, 
still  remains  in  one  of  the  towers,  by  the  river  side,  and 
a  few  years  ago,  the  tree  was  blown  down,  which  served 
as  the  gallows  for  the  execution  of  his  prisoners.  What 
a  state  of  society  do  such  facts  disclose ! 

It  would  be  difficult  to  imagine  a  more  beautiful  situa- 
tion for  rural  retirement  than  this  place  presents  ;  raised 
high  upon  a  bank  above  the  gurgling  and  dashing  river, 
and  catching  a  prospect  of  a  fine  meadow  or  rich  lawn, 
formed  by  a  bend  in  the  river  some  short  distance  below 
the  house.  The  grounds  are  laid  out  with  much  taste, 
with  shrubs  and  ornamental  trees,  and  green  banks  ;  and 
the  road  from  Melrose  to  Cowdin  Knowse,  crossing  the 
Tweed  and  the  Leda,  is  delightful ;  presenting,  besides 
green  hedges  and  extended  avenues  of  trees,  much  of  the 
richest  cultivation  which  can  be  found  in  Scotland,  and 
opening  upon  an  extensive  view  of  the  valley  of  the 
Tweed. 

Our  dinner  was  very  agreeable  ;  several  well-informed 
and  most  sociable  persons  being  of  the  party.  From 
Melrose  I  walked  to  Dryburgh  Abbey,,  five  miles,  and 
mistook  the  road  on  returning,  which  made  the  distance 
seven  miles. 


76  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

The  ruins  of  Dryburgh  Abbey  are  situated  near  the 
banks  of  the  Tweed,  where  it  makes,  in  its  passage,  a 
most  beautiful  curve.  These  ruins  date  back  to  1150. 
They  appear  to  cover  a  larger  space  than  Melrose,  but 
are  more  fragmentary,  and  in  no  case  so  perfect. 

There  remain  still  columns,  arches,  windows,  and  a 
chapter-house,  which  is  nearly  entire.  A  modern  statue 
of  Sir  Isaac  Newton  is  placed  in  the  chapter-house,  but 
with  what  propriety  it  is  not  easy  to  discern.  The 
remains  of  cellars,  larders,  and  dungeons  for  the  confine- 
ment of  refractory  monks,  are  shown  by  the  guide,  who 
seemed  disposed  to  get  us  out  of  them  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible. 

A  yew  tree  of  beautiful  proportions,  healthy  and  full 
in  its  foliage,  is  shown,  which  is  said  to  be  of  the  same 
age  as  the  Abbey.  The  ivy,  creeping  all  over  the  walls 
and  climbing  the  tops  of  the  highest  portions  of  the  ruins, 
and  covering  them  with  the  thickest  matting  of  shining 
foliage,  and  hanging  from  every  angle  in  graceful  fes- 
toons, presented  an  unsurpassed  richness  of  vegetation. 

But  what  gives  to  Dryburgh  its  peculiar  interest  is, 
that  in  a  part  of  its  ruins,  called  St.  Mary's  aisle, 
enclosed  by  an  iron  railing,  lie  the  remains  of  Sir  Walter 
Scott,  a  name  destined  to  all  the  immortality  which  this 
world  can  promise.  His  wife  was  first  deposited  here 
by  himself;  and  his  own  remains  were  laid  by  her  side 
in  1832 ;  the  place  is  wholly  unadorned  ;  a  simple  slab, 
raised  two  feet  from  the  ground,  with  his  name  and  the 
date  of  his  death,  is  placed  over  his  grave.  Yet,  the  ruin 
itself  forms,  perhaps  of  all  others,  the  most  appropriate 
burial-place  for  one,  whose  genius  has  given  life  to  all 
these  memorials  of  departed  centuries  ;   who  wielded  a 


LETTER    XXIV. 


77 


pen,  perhaps,  more  graphic  tlian  that  of  any  other,  Hving 
or  dead  ;  and  who,  so  far  as  verbal  description  is  con- 
cerned, for  expression,  for  vigor,  above  all,  for  combining 
images  in  all  their  variety  of  forms,  and  presenting  them 
to  the  imagination,  as  though  they  were  actually  present, 
may  be  pronounced  the  most  successful  of  all  painters. 

We  were  also  shown  a  most  interesting  relic,  which 
was  an  ornament  of  the  high  altar,  and  consists  of  a 
stone  pedestal  about  four  feet  in  height,  on  the  top  of 
which,  surrounded  by  a  wreath  of  flowers,  carved  in 
stone,  lies  the  figure  of  a  dead  lamb,  stretched  out  for  a 
holocaust,  with  the  initials  I.  H.  S.  (Jesus  Hominum 
Salvator)  carved  at  the  foot  of  it.  The  carving  of  the 
whole  is  now  somewhat  worn  by  time,  but  must  have 
been  executed  with  no  inferior  skill. 

I  returned  to  Melrose,  and  visited  Abbotsford,  which 
is  now  open  to  the  inspection  of  strangers  only  two  days 
in  a  week,  Wednesdays  and  Fridays,  from  2  to  5  o'clock. 
Abbotsford,  so  named  because  near  the  fording  place  of 
the  river,  is  three  and  a  half  miles  from  Melrose,  situated 
on  the  banks  of  the  Tweed  ;  but  is  now  so  surrounded 
and  embosomed  in  trees  that  the  river  is  scarcely  visible 
from  the  liouse.  This  plantation,  which  seems  quite 
extensive,  was  stated  to  have  been  made  by  Sir  Walter 
Scott ;  yet  the  size  of  many  of  the  trees  would  indicate 
an  earlier  origin.  The  house  is  of  stone ;  of  a  castel- 
lated form,  and  of  very  moderate  dimensions.  A  crowd 
of  carriages  was  at  the  gate,  and  we  were  obliged  to  wait 
until  some  of  the  visiters  came  out,  as  only  one  party  is 
admitted  at  a  time. 

At  the  gate  hangs  by  a  short  chain,  a  coarse  iron  ring 
called  a  jug.  which  was  formerly  used  at  the  church 
7= 


-7* 


78  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS, 

door,  when  offenders  were  collared  at  the  entrance,  so 
that  the  congregation  might  spit  upon  them  as  they  went 
in  ;  quite  likely  to  call  out  a  temper,  which  certainly  was 
not  in  very  good  keeping  with  the  service  in  which  they 
were  about  to  be  engaged.  Whoever  looks  at  such 
objects  as  these  ;  at  the  instruments  of  torture  in  the 
tower  of  London,  and  above  all  in  the  arsenal  at  Venice, 
reflects  with  the  deepest  depression  and  humiliation  of 
heart,  how  human  ingenuity  and  skill  have  been  prosti- 
tuted to  invent  instruments  of  torture,  and  to  gratify, 
under  the  professed  name  of  religion,  some  of  the  worst 
passions  which  can  swell  the  human  breast.  A  marble 
statue  of  Scott's  favorite  dog,  Maida,  is  placed  before 
the  study  window,  to  mark  the  burial  place  of  this  hum- 
ble but  faithful  friend. 

The  hall  into  which  we  enter  is  hung  with  various 
pieces  and  suits  of  armor,  and  instruments  of  war.  Two 
statues,  one  representing  a  knight  in  full  armor,  with  a 
sword  so  long  and  heavy,  that  it  would  seem  only  suita- 
ble for  show,  and  the  other  a  knight  in  full  tilting  armor, 
are  placed  at  the  end  of  the  room  ;  and  there  are  like- 
wise shown  the  keys  of  the  old  Tolbooth,  or  prison  in 
Edinburgh,  celebrated  in  the  Heart  of  Mid  Lothian. 
The  fireplace  has  a  grate,  which  belonged  to  Archbishop 
Sharp,  and  a  Roman  kettle  said  to  be  2000  years  old, 
quite  like  our  modern  cast  iron  pots.  This  age  struck 
me  as  apocryphal.  The  next  room  shown  was  the 
arniory,  filled  with  small  arms  of  a  great  variety,  among 
others  a  sword  of  Celtic  origin,  of  curious  workmanship, 
presented  to  Sir  Walter  by  the  city  of  Edinburgh.  Into 
this  room  we  were  allowed  to  look,  but  not  to  enter.  I 
should  have  said   that  the  suit  of  armor  on  one  of  ihe 


LFTTFR    XXIV. 


79 


knights  in  the  entrance  hall  was  reported  to  have  been 
found  on  the  field  of  Bosworth. 

The  fireplace  in  the  entrance  hall  was  modelled  after 
the  arches  in  the  ruins  of  Melrose  Abbey  ;  and  a  part  of 
the  ceiling  in  a  recess  of  the  dining  room  is  ornamented 
with  carved  work,  called  the  Star  of  Bethlehem  and 
copied  from  the  beautiful  chapel  at  Roslin  Castle.  We 
were  shown,  afterwards,  the  dining  room  in  which  are 
several  most  valuable  pictures  ;  one  of  Oliver  Cromwell, 
admirable  and  very  rare;  one  of  Charles  XII.  of  Swe-* 
den  ;  one  of  General  Fairfax  ;  and  a  most  touching  one 
of  the  head  of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots  after  her  execu- 
tion—  it  is  an  original,  and  Sir  Walter  Scott  would 
never  suffer  a  copy  to  be  taken.  One  cannot  help  exe- 
crating the  memory  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  In  another 
room  we  were  shown  several  pictures  of  the  Scott  fam- 
ily ;  Lady  Scott,  Scott's  second  daughter,  Anne  Scott, 
and  an  admirable  portrait  of  Scott  himself,  by  Leslie. 

The  next  room  shown  us  was  the  library,  containing 
some  thousand  volumes,  carefully  guarded  from  removal 
by  a  wire-grating.  Here  was  a  fine  bust  of  Wordsworth, 
one  of  Shakspeare,  taken  from  his  tomb  at  Stratford,  and 
above  all,  of  Scott  himself,  by  Chantry,  full  of  life  and 
expression.  In  this  room  was  a  set  of  ebony  chairs  and 
an  ebony  writing-desk  of  most  curious  and  exquisite 
workmanship,  said  to  have  belonged  to  George  II,  and 
presented  to  Sir  Walter  by  George  IV.  The  next  room 
shown  to  us  was  the  sanctuary  of  Scott,  his  private-room 
or  study,  with  the  chair  remaining  in  the  position  in 
which  he  sat,  the  desk  at  which  he  wrote,  and  in  an 
adjoining  closet  the  clothes  which  he  last  wore.  The 
walls  of  the  room    are  lined   with   hooks,  with  a  small 


80  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

gallery  running  round  the  whole,  and  a  private  stair- 
case, by  which  he  came  from  his  bed  or  dressing-room 
at  pleasure. 

He  told  the  Duchess  of  Saint  Albans  that  he  could 
come  into  his  room  by  this  private  way,  and  work  and 
write  as  much  as  he  pleased  "  without  any  one's  being 
the  wiser  for  it ;  "  —  "That,"  she  replied,  "  is  impossi- 
ble "  —  certainly  a  most  graceful  compliment,  and 
appreciated  by  Sir  Walter.  The  room  has  a  double- 
window  to  prevent  both  cold  and  noise.  This  apart- 
ment is  full  of  interesting  associations.  Everybody,  the 
guide  says,  sits  down  in  Sir  Walter's  chair ;  as  if,  perhaps, 
in  some  way  they  might  catch  some  of  his  inspiration. 
There  is  a  melancholy  gratification  in  sitting  where  he 
sat,  and  in  contemplating  the  books  he  handled  and  the 
desk  on  which  he  penned  many  of  his  immortal  works. 

The  amount  of  manual  labor  performed  by  this  great 
man  seems  gigantic  and  almost  to  have  surpassed  the 
powers  of  an  individual,  and  especially  one  who  dis- 
charged the  duties  of  some  public  offices,  and  gave  of 
necessity  so  much  time  to  his  family  and  to  general 
society. 

Large  numbers  of  persons  were  flocking  to  the  house 
when  we  were  leaving  it,  and  so  for  years,  perhaps  for 
centuries  to  come,  it  must  continue  to  be  visited  by  pil- 
grims to  the  shrine  of  that  rare  genius,  which  has 
achieved  for  itself  an  earthly  immortality. 

Scott  was  a  most  eminent  benefactor,  not  to  the  world  at 
large  merely,  in  the  amount  of  pleasure  which  he  diffused, 
and  the  curiosity  which  he  gratified,  but  to  Scotland, 
especially,  in  a  more  humble  and  pecuniary  sense.  He 
may  be  said  to  have  illuminated  every  place  which  he 


LETTER    XXIV.  81 

touched,  and  to  have  thrown  an  interest  around,  in  a 
word,  to  have  made  ahve,  every  object  which  he 
described.  Interesting  and  dehghtful  associations  are  • 
now  connected  with  innumerable  places  and  spots,  lochs 
and  glens,  crags  and  caves,  castles  and  mins,  churches 
and  abbeys,  before  scarcely  known,  but  now  eagerly 
sought  after  by  the  admirers  of  his  works ;  and  now 
Scotland  actually  swarms  with  tourists,  attracted  by  his 
descriptions,  beautiful  and  enchanting  as  they  are,  with 
all  the  eagerness  and  enthusiasm  of  the  most  impatient 
curiosity.  Their  disbursements  in  the  country  must 
amount  to  a  very  large  sum.  It  is  stated  that  Cadell, 
the  bookseller  and  publisher  of  his  works,  in  Edinburgh, 
has  realized  from  them  no  less  a  sum  than  £170,000 
sterling. 

At  one  time  the  autograph  manuscripts  of  Sir  Walter, 
were  to  be  seen  at  this  person's  place  of  business.  He 
has  since  removed  them  all  to  his  house  in  the  country, 
it  is  said,  to  avoid  the  trouble  of  showing  them.  He  is 
deserving  of  severe  censure,  if  for  no  better  reason  than 
this,  after  making  so  splendid  a  fortune  from  them,  he 
denies  the  public  this  reasonable  gratification  of  seeing 
them,  though  it  might  have  cost  the  entire  attention  of 
a  man  devoted  to  exhibiting  them,  whose  services  the 
public  would  have  most  cheerfully  and  liberally  com- 
pensated. 

From  Abbotsford  I  returned  to  Galashiels.  On  my 
way  I  had  a  great  desire  to  see  the  plaid  manufactory 
for  which  this  place  has  long  been  distinguished.  An 
extensive  manufacturer,  in  a  most  gentlemanly  and  cour- 
teous manner,  showed  me  his  whole  establishment,  and 
then  led  me  into  the  village  library,  of  two  thousand  vol- 


OSS  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

umes,  well  thumbed,  of  which  he  was  the  curator.  His 
kindness  did  not  end  here.  He  asked  me  in  the  most 
polite  manner,  if  I  wished  an  autograph  of  Sir  Walter, 
a  prize  of  course  greatly  to  be  desired,  and  gave  me  half 
a  sheet  of  the  manuscript  copy  of  his  French  Revolu- 
tion, and  added  to  this  a  walking  stick  cut  by  Sir 
Walter's  gardener  in  his  grounds,  while  the  owner  was 
living.  This  certainly  was  most  extraordinary  courtesy 
to  a  stranger,  and  will  not  soon  be  forgotten. 

The  season  of  late  has  been  beautiful,  the  temper- 
ature mild  to  me,  though  complained  of  here  as  very 
cold,  and  the  sky  perfectly  cloudless,  which  is  of  rare 
occurrence.  The  crops  are  most  abundant,  and  few 
things  present  a  more  striking  spectacle  to  the  traveller, 
than  to  see  an  extensive  field  of  grain  with  a  hundred 
persons,  principally  women,  engaged  in  reaping  and 
harvesting. 

I  was  a  few  days  ago  at  Stirling,  the  seat  of  many 
historical  recollections.  The  view  from  the  Castle,  the 
great  object  of  attraction,  resembles  very  much,  and  can 
not  be  pronounced  inferior  to  the  view  from  Mount 
Holyoke.  The  windings  of  the  Frith  of  Forth  are 
much  more  serpentine  and  remarkable  than  the  course 
of  the  Connecticut.  The  facility  with  which  engravings 
are  multiplied  in  this  country,  is  quite  observable;  and 
the  shop  windows  in  Edinburgh  are  embellished  with 
most  admirable  prints.  The  book-stores  in  Edinburgh 
are  more  extensive  than  in  Boston,  and  much  superior 
in  their  fixtures  and  appearance  to  those  in  London. 
Adieu. 


LETTKR    XXV.  83 

LETTER  XXV. 

Manchester,  25th  Sept.,  1843. 
My  Dear  Sik; 

I  HAD  very  great  pleasure  in  receiving  per  last  packet 

a  kind  letter  from  A ,  much   too  short  to  be  sure, 

but  half  a  loaf  is  so  much  better  than  no  bread,  that  I 
was  exceedingly  glad  to  get  it.  I  think,  at  home  you 
are  much  more  likely  to  complain  of  my  too  frequent, 
than  of  my  too  spare  letters  ;  and  in  future  I  must  hold 
in  the  reins. 

Next  to  the  pleasure  of  receiving  letters  from  home  I 
have  none  greater  than  that  of  communicating  with  you 
even  at  this  distance,  but  my  time  will  less  and  less 
admit  of  it,  and  I  find,  whenever  I  have  to  prepare 
a  parcel  of  letters,  sad  deficiencies  in  my  journal, 
and  I  have  hard  work  to  get  up  again.  Nearly  a  fort- 
night ago  I  left  Edinburgh,  and  of  course  took  Abbots- 
ford  in  my  way.  Of  this  I  have  already  given  an 
account,  but  it  has  occurred  to  me  that  you  would  like 
to  see  a  representation  of  what  Scott's-  monument  is  to 
be,  so  I  send  you  the  picture.  The  foundation  is  laid, 
and  indeed,  the  principal  story  is  completed,  and  they 
are  only  waiting  an  addition  to  their  funds  to  proceed 
with  it.  As  such  things  are  usually  managed,  they 
began  with  insufficient  means,  and  they  extended  their 
plan,  and  rendered  it  much  more  expensive  than  they 
had  originally  designed  ;  and  so  they  have  got  com- 
pletely aground,  and  are  crying  for  help  to  set  them 
afloat  again.     It  will  come  presently  without  doubt,  but 


84  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

people  here  as  in  our  own  country,  have  heard  so  often 
the  cry  of  the  wolf,  that  they  listen  to  the  most  pathetic 
appeals  in  such  cases  with  no  little  indifference.  I  think 
with  your  taste,  you  will  admire  the  design  ;  I  have 
seen  nothing  in  England  or  Scotland  so  handsome, 
abating  the  monument  to  the  children  in  Lichfield  Ca- 
thedral. The  monument  to  Nelson  here  is  in  bad 
taste;  that  to  Burns  is  a  Grecian  temple,  with  his 
statue  by  Flaxman  placed  in  the  interior,  to  which  you 
are  admitted  by  a  fee ;  that  of  Dugald  Stewart  has  no 
beauty,  that  of  Lord  Melville,  Wm.  Pitt,  and  that  of 
George  IV.,  are  all  of  a  different  character,  but  very 
handsome  in  their  way.  This  of  Scott  will  be  a  great 
ornament  to  a  city,  in  its  new  parts,  pronounced  by  those 
competent  to  judge,  among  the  most  beautiful  and  splen- 
did in  Europe.     Adieu. 


LETTER   XXVL 

Manchester,  25th  September,  1843. 
My  Dear  A : 

Many  thanks  for  your  kind  letter,  my  only  regret  is 
that  I  can  give  you  nothing  interesting  in  return.  You 
say  you  want  trifling  details ;  so  I  will  try  my  hand  at 
them.  Last  week  I  was  at  Lambton  Castle,  the  seat  of 
the  late  Lord  Durham.  The  beauty  of  the  situation  on 
the  river  Wear  is  extraordinary,  though  the  furniture  and 
bijouterie,  in  the  house,  by  no  means  equal  several  other 
places  where  I  have  been.  I  staid  with  H.  Morton,  Esq., 
who  took  his  gig,  and  gave  me  the  whole  of  two  days. 


LRTTER    XXVI.  85 

and  urged  me  to  spend  a  week,  and  by  all  means  to 
come  there  for  some  time  whenever  I  should  return 
from  Scotland  ;  this  was  certainly  great  kindness. 

They  carried  me  over  the  Castle,  and  kindly  showed 
me  everything  that  was  interesting,  even  to  the  stable, 
the  beautiful  dairy,  and  the  servants'  rooms.  In  houses 
of  this  kind  it  is  usual  to  have  from  forty  to  fifty  servants. 

The  servants'  establishment  is  quite  an  affair  by  itself. 
The  steward  is  at  the  head  ;  he  provides  everything,  and 
purchases  all  the  supplies,  he  oversees  all  the  other 
servants,  and  puts  on,  and  where  the  party  is  not  large, 
takes  everything  off  from  the  table,  the  other  servants 
standing  by  and  waiting  upon  him.  He  has  a  room  to 
himself,  well  fitted  up,  and  has  a  large  salary.  Next  to 
him  comes  the  butler,  who  takes  care  of  all  the  wines, 
fruit,  glasses,  candle-sticks,  lamps  and  plate,  and  has  an 
under  butler  for  his  adjunct.  Next  in  equal  authority 
with  the  steward,  and  having  also  an  elegant  parlor,  is 
the  housekeeper ;  she  has  all  the  care  of  the  chambers, 
the  linen,  and  the  female  servants.  Then  comes  next 
in  authority,  and  perfectly  despotic  in  his  own  domain, 
the  cook,  who  is  generally  French  or  Italian,  and  his 
subalterns.  Then  come  the  coachman,  the  footman, 
and  the  hostlers,  who,  the  last,  I  believe,  seldom  come  into 
the  house.  Then  there  is  the  porter,  who  in  London 
houses  always  sits  in  the  entry,  and  there  either  has  an 
office  by  the  door,  or  else  a  table,  with  pen,  ink,  paper, 
&c.,  who  receives  and  delivers  messages,  but  does  not 
leave  his  place,  having  always  servants  at  hand  to  wait 
upon  him.  Then  each  gentleman  in  the  house  has  his 
own  private  valet,  and  each  lady  her  own  maid,  who  has 
all  the  cast-off  clothes  of  the  lady.  The  ladies,  it  is 
8 


86  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

reported,  never  wear  a  pair  of  white  satin  shoes,  or 
white  gloves  more  than  once ;  and  some  of  them,  if 
they  find,  on  going  into  society,  another  person  of  infe- 
rior rank  wearing  the  same  dress  as  themselves,  the 
dress  upon  being  taken  off,  is  at  once  thrown  aside,  and 
the  lady's  maid  perfectly  understands  her  perquisite. 
Then  there  are  the  servants  to  attend  upon  the  guests, 
one  of  whom  is  sure  to  attach  himself  to  you,  rendering 
the  most  constant  service.  But  of  these  I  have  spoken 
in  another  place. 

In  most  families  the  hour  of  breakfast  is  announced 
to  you  before  retiring,  and  the  breakfast  is  entirely  with- 
out ceremony.  Your  letters  are  brought  to  you  in  the 
morning,  and  the  mail  goes  out  every  day.  The  postage 
of  letters  is  always  pre-paid  by  those  who  write  them, 
who  paste  double  or  single  stamps  upon  them  ;  and  it  is 
considered  an  indecorum  to  send  a  letter  unpaid,  or 
sealed  with  a  wafer.  Any  expense  incurred  for  you,  if 
it  be  only  a  penny  upon  a  letter,  is  at  once  mentioned 
to  you,  and  you  of  course  pay  it.  At  breakfast  the 
arrangements  are  made  for  the  day  ;  you  are  generally 
left  to  choose  what  you  will  do,  and  horses  and  carriages 
are  always  at  the  service  of  the  guests,  or  guns  and 
implements  for  sporting,  if  those  are  their  habits.  There 
is  your  chamber,  or  the  library,  the  billiard-room,  or  the 
garden,  the  park,  or  the  village.  You  are  not  looked 
for  again,  unless  you  make  one  of  some  party,  until  din- 
ner time,  which  is  generally  in  a  nobleman's  house,  7 
o'clock.  Breakfast  from  9  to  10.  Lunch,  to  which 
you  go  if  you  choose,  which  in  truth  is  a  dinner,  though 
most  things  are  cold,  at  half  past  one  ;  coffee  immedi- 
ately after  dinner,  and  tea  and  cake  immediately  after 


LETTER    XXVI.  87 

coffee.  At  eleven  o'clock  there  is  always  a  candle  for 
each  guest,  placed  on  the  side-board  or  in  the  entry, 
with  allumettes  along  side  of  them,  and  at  your  pleasure 
you  light  your  own  candle,  and  bid  good  night.  In  a 
Scotch  family  you  are  expected  to  shake  hands  on  retir- 
ing, with  all  the  party,  and  on  meeting  in  the  morning. 
The  English  are  a  little  more  reserved,  though,  in  general, 
the  master  of  the  house  shakes  hands  with  you.  On  a 
fii'St  introduction,  no  gentlemen  shake  hands,  but  simply 
bow  to  each  other.  In  the  morning  you  come  down  in 
undress,  with  boots,  trowsers  of  any  color,  frock-coat, 
&,c.  At  dinner,  you  are  always  expected  to  be  in  full 
dress ;  straight  coat,  black  satin,  or  white  waistcoat,  silk 
stockings  and  pumps,  but  not  gloves ;  and  if  you  dine 
abroad  in  London,  you  keep  your  hat  in  your  hand  until 
you  go  in  to  dinner,  when  you  give  it  to  a  servant,  or 
leave  it  in  an  anti-room.  The  lady  of  the  house  gener- 
ally claims  the  arm  of  the  principal  stranger,  or  the 
gentleman  of  the  highest  rank  ;  she  then  assigns  the 
other  ladies  and  gentlemen  by  name,  and  commonly 
waits  until  all  her  guests  precede  her  into  dinner,  though 
this  is  not  invariable.  The  gentleman  is  expected  to  sit 
near  the  lady  whom  he  hands  in.  Grace  is  almost  always 
said  by  the  master,  and  it  is  done  in  the  shortest  possible 
way.  Sometimes  no  dishes  are  put  upon  the  table  until 
the  soup  is  done  with,  but  at  other  times  there  are  two 
covers  besides  the  soup.  The  soup  is  various  ;  in  Scot- 
land it  is  usually  what  they  call  hodge-podge,  a  mixture 
of  vegetables  with  some  meat.  After  soup,  the  fish 
cover  is  removed,  and  this  is  commonly  served  round 
without  any  vegetables,  but  certainly  not  more  than  one 
kind.     After  fish,  come  the  plain  joints,  roast  or  boiled. 


OS  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS, 

with  potatoes,  peas  or  beans,  and  cauliflowers.  Then 
sherry  wine  is  handed  by  the  servant  to  every  one. 
German  wine  is  offered  to  those  who  prefer  it ;  this  is 
always  drank  in  green  glasses  ;  then  come  the  entrees, 
which  are  a  variety  of  French  dishes,  and  hashes ;  then 
champagne  is  offered ;  after  this  remove,  come  ducks,  or 
partridges,  or  other  game  ;  after  this  the  bons  bons,  pud- 
dings, tarts,  sweetmeats,  blanc  mange ;  then  cheese  and 
bread,  and  a  glass  of  strong  ale  is  handed  round ;  then 
the  removal  of  the  upper  cloth,  and  oftentimes  the  most 
delicious  fruits  and  confectionary  follow,  such  as  grapes, 
peaches,  melons,  apples,  dried  fruits,  &£c.,  &;c.  After 
this  is  put  upon  the  table  a  small  bottle  of  Constantia 
wine,  which  is  deemed  very  precious,  and  handed  round 
in  small  wine  glasses,  or  noyeau,  or  some  other  cordial. 
Finger  glasses  are  always  furnished,  though  m  some 
cases  I  have  seen  a  deep  silver  plate  filled  with  rose 
water  presented  to  each  guest,  in  which  he  dips  the 
corner  of  his  napkin,  to  wipe  his  lips  or  his  fingers.  No 
cigars  or  pipes  are  ever  offered,  and  soon  after  the 
removal  of  the  cloth,  the  ladies  retire  to  the  drawing- 
room,  the  gentlemen  close  up  at  the  table,  and  after 
sitting  as  long  as  you  please,  you  go  into  the  drawing- 
room  to  have  coffee  and  then  tea.  The  wines  at  table 
are  generally  of  the  most  expensive  quality  ;  port,  sherry, 
claret,  seldom  madeira  ;  but  I  have  never  heard  any 
discussion  about  the  character  of  wines,  excepting  that  I 
have  been  repeatedly  asked  what  wine  we  usually  drank 
in  America.  The  style  of  living  is  elegant  and  luxuri- 
ous ;  I  dined  in  company  one  week  seven  times ;  and 
excepting  twice  at  public  tables,  in  no  other  of  the  times 
did  I  fail  to  find  the  tables  covered  with  silver,  —  all  the 


LETTER    XXVI.  89 

covers,  vegetable  dishes,  and  many  others.  The  wealth 
of  many  of  these  persons  is  enormous. 

Now  I  hope  I  have  given  you  small  details  enough, 
but  remember,  this  letter  is  for  your  private  amusement. 
The  formal  breakfasts  to  which  one  is  sometimes  invited, 
in  London,  generally  at  ten,  sometimes  at  eleven  o'clock, 
are  often  most  elegant.  There  you  have  tea,  coffee,  &tc., 
cold  meats  on  the  side-board,  and  generally  most  delicious 
fruits  when  in  season,  such  as  raspberi'ies,  strawben-ies, 
grapes,  &:c.  There  is  no  formality  here  whatever,  and 
conversation  is  very  free,  and  generally  much  more 
agreeable  than  at  dinner.  Here,  likewise,  you  see  often- 
times the  most  elegant  silver  and  china  services.  The 
fruits  which  are  grown  here,  with  great  care  and  expense, 
are  most  delicious  —  the  best  pine-apples  I  ever  tasted. 

Of  the  manners  of  the  palace  I  am  not  able  to  speak  ; 
but  it  is  said  no  one  ever  sits  in  the  presence  of  the 
Queen  while  she  stands,  nor  speaks  to  her  unless  she 
first  addresses  them. 

It  is  reported  that  the  Emperor  of  Russia,  when  on  a 
visit  at  Buckingham  palace,  gave  a  silent  reproof  to 
Prince  Albert,  in  not  pemiitting  the  ladies  in  waiting, 
to  open  doors  for  him,  as  they  had  been  accustomed  to 
do  for  the  Prince. 

I  have  no  comments  to  make  upon  all  these  matters, 
but  you  wished  such  a  letter,  and  I  have  done  my  best ; 
I  finish  with  one  anecdote.  The  other  day  when  the 
Queen  was  embarking  at  Brighton,  the  usual  carpet  was 
not  laid  upon  the  wharf;  and  the  Mayor  and  Aldermen 
pulled  off  their  scarlet  robes  of  office,  and  laid  them 
down  for  the  royal  lady  to  walk  upon.  The  caricatu- 
8* 


'^  EUROPEAN    LIFE     AND    MANNERS. 

rists  now  have  them  drawn  vip  in  full  array,  with  asses 
ears. 

I  think  you  will  never  ask  me  to  write  another  gos- 
siping letter ;  I  forgot  to  say  to  you  that  I  have  scarcely 
staid  in  a  family  where  they  have  not  had  family  prayers. 
Generally  the  master  of  the  house,  oftentimes  the  lady 
of  the  house  reads  prayers,  sometimes  some  one  of  the 
children,  and  children  are  often  called  upon  to  give 
thanks,  or  ask  a  blessing  at  table.  I  have  scarcely 
heard  a  profane  word  since  I  have  been  in  England, 
not  even  with  the  lowest  classes,  though  I  have  seen 
ignorance  and  \ailgarity  enough,  as  I  shall  give  you 
some  instances.*  I  have  not  seen  a  single  instance  of 
tobacco  chewing,  though  the  taking  of  snufF  is  very 
common  in  Scotland.  I  have  seen  some  persons  in 
Scotland  who  kept  a  small  ivory  spoon  in  their  pockets, 
one  of  which,  given  me,  by  a  friend  I  send  you,  to  shove 
their  snufF  up  their  noses  ;  and  at  the  hotels  you  often 
find  an  ox-horn  elegantly  mounted  with  silver,  which  con- 
tains snufF  for  general  use,  with  a  brush  attached.  Some 
persons  carry  a  small  brush  in  their  pockets  to  wipe 
their  noses  and  upper  lip  after  they  have  taken  their 
snufF.     Charming  refinements  these  ! 

A  lady  going  to  a  shop  never  takes  up  her  own  pur- 
chase, though  it  should  be  merely  a  riband,  or  a  piece 
of  tape,  but  the  shop-keeper  always  uncovered,  brings  it 
to  her  carnage ;  at  church  the  footman  always  carries 
and  brings  home  the  lady's  prayer-book,  and  opens  the 
pew-door  before  and  after  service,  which  she  is  never 

*  I  will  add  in  this  place,  that  during  my  long  residence  in  England,  even 
in  the  freest  conversation  in  parties  of  gentlemen,  I  have  nev^er  heard  an 
obscene  story,  or  indecent  allusion,  nor  even  a  doitUe  enlendre. 


LETTER    XXVT.  91 

expected  to  do  of  herself.  If  the  lady  has  not  her  own 
servant,  there  is  a  pew-opener,  generally  a  woman,  who 
opens  the  pew-door  for  any  principal  person,  either 
noble  or  gentle,  and  likewise  for  strangers.  In  the 
Scotch  Presbyterian  churches,  none  of  these  decorums 
are  observed.  Men  cover  their  heads  even  before  they 
leave  the  church. 

I  have  been  9t  a  wake  to-day  at  Duckingfield,  in  this 
neighborhood,  ^here  there  were  thousands  of  people. 
Among  other  entertainments,  was  a  foot-race  for  a  hat, 
which  was  hung  out  of  the  window,  covered  with  rib- 
ands. The  street  was  as  public  as  the  centre  of  Essex 
street,  in  Salem ;  I  saw  a  public  house  full  of  men  and 
well-dressed  women.  I  waited  a  few  minutes,  until  four 
stout  young  men  who  had  run  once,  came  out  of  this 
house  (where  the  people  were,)  with  nothing  on  but 
their  shirts  and  shoes,  cutting  all  sorts  of  pranks.  They 
then  went  into  a  room,  took  off  their  shirts,  and  put- 
ting merely  a  handkerchief  round  their  loins,  came  out 
and  run  the  race,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  up  the  street,  and 
back  again.  The  street,  all  along  the  sidewalks,  was 
filled  with  men  and  well-dressed  women,  young  and  old, 
cheering  the  racers  as  they  passed.  As  I  should  have 
missed  the  train,  I  did  not  wait  to  see  the  prize  awarded. 
This  is  certainly  a  curious  specimen  of  manners,  but  may 
be  regarded  as  an  index  of  the  condition  of  some  of  the 
lower  classes. 


^  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

LETTER    XXVII. 

Manchester,  26th  Sept.,  1843. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  received  with  the  usual   delight,  your  letter  by  the 

packet  of  the  1st  inst.     Your   announcTfement  of 's 

determination  surprised  me.  I  cannot,  and,  if  I  could, 
would  not,  give  any  advice  on  the  subject.  No  person 
should  undertake  the  profession  of  the  Christian  ministry 
but  under  a  fimi  persuasion  of  the  truth  of  Christianity, 
sober  convictions  of  duty,  and  a  belief  that  he  will  find  its 
services  and  duties  agreeable  and  pleasant,  and  be  ena- 
bled to  render  substantial  benefits  to  his  fellow-men.  If 
he  enters  the  profession  from  motives  of  avarice  or  am- 
bition, or  with  any  feeling  of  reluctance  or  indifference, 
or  merely  as  a  resource  to  procure  a  livelihood,  he  will  not 
be  happy,  and  he  will  experience  continually  mortification 

and  disappointment.  does  not  need  that  I  should  tell 

him  that ;  and  he  must  settle  the  whole  matter  with  his 
own  heart  and  conscience. 

I  have  been  spending  two  days  with  Mr.  Bates,  the 
great  cattle-breeder  in  England,  and  the  greatest  talker  I 
ever  met  with  ;  exceedingly  hospitable  and  kind,  but  I 
told  him  he  would  quite  destroy  me,  if  I  staid  two  days 
longer.  I  then  went  to  Leeds,  stopping  a  few  hours, 
and  came  here  on  Saturday  evening,  to  attend,  by  invi- 
tation of  the  Agricultural  Society,  their  anniversary 
meeting.  That  took  place  to-day ;  and  without  my 
knowledge  or  consent,  I  was  announced  in  the  printed 
bills   to  speak.     I  accordingly  did  what  I  could,  and. 


LETTER    XXVII. 


98 


I  believe,  said  nothing  to  be  regretted.  By  the  way, 
a  friend  sent  me  last  week  some  Genesee  Farmers, 
and  one  in  which  my  speech  at  a  meeting  in  Sus- 
sex, at  the  Duke  of  Richmond's,  is  given.  I  did  not 
myself  know  that  it  had  ever  been  reported,  but  they 
copiied  it  from  an  English  paper,  and  I  cannot  say  that 
I  have  not  been  amused  with  their  mode  of  printing 
a  quotation,  which  I  used  on  the  occasion.  I  quoted  the 
lines 

"  Maa  is  the  nobler  growlli  our  realms  supply, 
And  souls  are  ripened  in  a  norlhem  sky." 

which  they  print  as  follows ; 

Man  is  the  noblest  wheel  your  realms  supply, 
And  souls  are  ripened  in  another  sky. 

This  is  exquisitely  ridiculous.  While  at  Mr.  Bates's, 
I  got  a  letter  from  Earl  Fitzwilliam,  particularly  inviting 
me  to  pass  a  few  days  at  Wentworth  House  ;  so  I  pro- 
pose to  go  there  day  after  to-morrow.  After  that  I  go  to 
Lord  Hatherton's  to  pass  a  week,  which  I  had  promised  in 
September,  and  then  on  to  several  farmers,  in  the  southern 
counties,  until  I  make  a  harbor  in  London  for  the  winter, 
and  give  myself  up  entirely  to  my  work,  except  pass- 
ing some  days  at  the  Duke  of  Richmond's  about  Christ- 
mas. I  was  to  have  visited  Lord  Morpeth,  at  Castle 
Howard,  but  on  account  of  a  death  in  the  family,  and 
the  illness  of  his  father,  I  declined  going  until  some 
other  time. 

I  have  written  a  very   long  letter  to  A by  this 

conveyance,  and  told  her  that  I  must,  I  fear,  reduce  my 
letters  to  once  a  month,  instead  of  once  a  fortnight.  I 
do  not  know  that  I  can  bring  my  mind  to  it  for  fear  you 
will  do  the  same. 


94  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

It  is  now  eleven  o'clock.  Dr.  Playfair,  a  most  intel- 
ligent man,  is  the  commissioner  of  the  government  to 
look  into  the  sanitary  condition  of  the  poor  in  the  coun- 
try and  in  cities,  and  has  invited  me  to  go  with  him  to 
night,  after  twelve  o'clock,  into  the  most  miserable  hov- 
els and  dens  and  holes  of  this  crowded  place,  to  see 
how  the  inmates  are  lodged  when  they  are  not  expect- 
ing to  be  visited.  The  government  have  ordered  the 
police  and  city  authorities  to  render  him  every  aid,  and 
two  policemen  are  to  go  with  us.  I  expect  an  adventure 
such  as  I  never  before  had.  He  says  I  can  form  no 
conception  of  the  condition  of  many  of  the  poor.  I 
thought  I  had  seen  enough.  He  says  a  great  many  of 
them  who  keep  asses,  keep  them  in  the  same  room  with 
themselves,  and  often  their  hogs,  too,  in  order  to  con- 
ceal them  from  the  authorities.  But  I  will  report  to  you 
what  I  see,  if  I  dare  do  it.  I  have  seen  enough  already 
in  Edinburgh  to  chill  one's  blood,  and  make  one's  hair 
stand  on  end.  Manchester  is  said  to  be  as  bad  as 
Edinburgh,  and  Liverpool  still  worse.  Wretched,  de- 
frauded, oppressed,  crushed  human  nature,  lying  in 
bleeding  fragments  all  over  the  face  of  society.  Every 
day  I  live  I  thank  Heaven  that  I  am  not  a  poor  man 
with  a  family  in  England. 

I  attended  the  large  church  here  on  Sunday ;  the 
largest  congregation  I  ever  saw  ;  I  should  think  more 
than  two  thousand,  perhaps  nearer  to  three  thousand. 
The  preaching  was  dull,  and  barren  of  all  useful  ideas. 
In  the  afternoon  I  went  to  Duckingfield,  a  great  manufac- 
turing place,  six  miles  from  this,  to  see  the  Wake,  which 
I  understood  had  commenced  that  day.  I  strolled  into 
church,  fearing  I  should  find  no  improvement  on  the  morn- 


LETTKK    XXVIII,  95 

ing,  but  I  heard  most  excellent  preaching  ;  and  found,  to 
my  surprise,  that  the  minister  was  the  son  of  an  eminent 
dissenting  minister  in  London,  to  whom  I  had  letters  of 
introduction,  which  I  had  not  delivered.  I  introduced 
myself  to  him  after  service  and  went  with  him  to 
drink  tea  with  one  of  his  parishioners,  one  of  the 
most  eminent  manufacturers  in  the  vicinity.  It  was 
really  a  perfect  cordial  to  me  to  hear  such  preaching. 

The  dialect  here  is  the  most  "  gawky,''  for  I  do  not 
know  what  other  word  to  apply  to  it,  which  you  can  im- 
agine. They  are  Lancashire  people,  and  it  requires  quite 
as  much  attention  as  with  the  broad  Scotch  to  make 
English  of  it.  But  it  would  be  a  much  more  difficult 
matter,  even  if  you  understood  it,  to  make  sense  of  it. 
We  have  no  people  so  ignorant  and  vulgar  as  the  lower 
classes  of  the  people  are  here.  They  seem  to  me  scarcely 
to  know  their  right  hand  from  the  left.  It  is  believed, 
however,  by  some,  and  openly  maintained,  that  it  is  much 
better  to  keep  them  in  ignorance,  lest  they  should  be 
discontented  with  their  condition. 

Do  write  constantly.  My  great  consolation  and  dei 
light  are  in  your  letters.     Adieu. 


LETTER  XXVIII. 

Manchester,  27th  Sept.  1843. 
My  Dear  Sir, 

Manchester  is  really  the   busiest  place  in  appearance, 

I  have  yet  seen.     In  size  it  is  not  to  be  compared  witii 

London,  but  in   the   business  streets  it  appears  equally 


96  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

crowded,  or  as  they  here  say,  thronged.  The  atmos- 
phere is  very  uncomfortable  from  smoke,  and  many  of 
the  houses  discolored,  but  the  city  is  well  built,  and  some 
of  the  public  edifices  are  on  a  grand  scale.  Trade  is 
here  said  to  be  reviving,  and  great  activity  prevails  among 
the  works.  What  occasions  this  I  do  not  know  so  well 
as  you,  but  it  puts  them  in  good  spirits,  as  very  great 
depression  has  prevailed  in  the  town.  I  avoid  as  much 
as  possible,  the  vexed  questions  of  politics,  as  the  par- 
ties are  so  strong  against  each  other,  it  would  very  much 
interfere  with  my  objects  ;  but  a  large  portion  of  the 
anti-com-law  people  of  England  are  acting  under  the 
strong  impression,  or  at  least,  saying,  that  they  would 
open  their  ports  to  our  bread  stuffs,  if  we  should  abolish 
our  tariff  and  receive  their  manufactured  goods  duty  free. 
They  seem  to  have  no  conception  of  the  extent  of  the 
manufacturing  interest  in  our  country. 

The  knowledge  and  information  of  a  large  portion  of 
the  English  people  respecting  the  United  States  is  very 
limited,  and  the  ignorance  of  the  lower  classes  is  quite 
remarkable. 

My  letter  to  A will  give  you  a  curious  specimen 

of  their  manners  at  their  wakes  and  fairs,  of  which,  I 
believe,  many  of  the  higher  classes  of  Englishmen  are 
as  ignorant  as  we  are  in  America  ;  but  determined  as  I 
am  to  see  all  that  is  to  be  seen,  without  compromitting  my 
own  honor  and  self  respect,  I  shall  better  be  able  to 
compare  England  with  America.  So  far,  in  all  that  ap- 
pertains to  the  condition  of  the  lower  classes,  who  con- 
stitute the  mass  of  the  people,  it  would  be  greatly  in 
favor  not  of  the  United  States  indiscriminately,  but  of 
New  England  most  decidedly.     I  shall  hold  my  conclu- 


LETTER    XXrX.  97 

sions,  however,  open  to  revision  when  my  arqiiaintanre 
here  becomes  more  extensive  and  thorough. .  My  walk 
with  Dr.  Playfair  and  two  police  officers  last  night,  from 

twelve  to  four,  which  I  mentioned   in  my  letter  to 

I  was  about  to  take,  introduced  me  to  exhibitions  of  the 
most  disgusting  and  loathsome  forms  of  destitution,  and 
utter  vice  and  profligacy.  We  went  into  thirty  or 
more  different  houses,  from  the  most  squalid  to  those 
which  would  not  be  inaptly  termed  elegant ;  and  march- 
ed directly  into  parlors,  chambers,  garrets,  and  cellars, 
crowded,  in  many  cases,  like  the  cells  of  a  bee  hive, 
but  only  in  fulness,  and  beyond  this  I  must  abjure  the 
comparison,  and  say  rather  like  a  putrid  carcass  filled 
with  vermin.  But  I  cannot  describe  my  visits  here,  the 
paper  would,  I  fear,  be  absolutely  ofiensive  to  the  touch 
if  I  should  send  the  details.  It  made  me  very  sad ;  it 
shocked  me  with  horror,  and  it  will  make  my  life  here- 
after an  incessant  thanksgiving  that  my  children  have 
not  in  the  inscrutable  dispensation  of  Heaven  been  cast 
destitute,  helpless,  and  orphans  in  such  a  country  as  this. 


LETTER    XXIX. 

Wenlwortli  House,  29lh  September,  1843. 

My  Dear  A : 

The  above  vignette  is  an  exact  sketch  of  the  exterior 

of  York-minster,  a  church  which,  I  believe  I  have  before 

described,  and  which,  for  the  magnitude  and  grandeur  and 

beauty  of  its   architecture,  both  within  and  without,  is 

9 


98  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

considered  superior  to  all  others  in  England,  St.  Paul's 
and  Westminster  Abbey  even  not  excepted. 

You  see  the  date  of  my  letter.  This  is  the  seat  of 
Earl  Fitzwilliam.  He  wrote  to  me  some  weeks  since, 
while  in  Scotland,  in  a  very  friendly  manner,  to  make  him 
a  visit  of  a  few  days,  and  I  came  here  yesterday,  from 
Manchester,  to  remain  until  Tuesday  morning. 

The  house  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  and  ancient 
in  the  country,  having  been  long  in  the  possession  of  the 
family.  It  was  once  the  property  of  the  Marquis  of 
Rockingham,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  ministers  of  the 
crown  in  the  war  of  the  revolution,  and  always  an  ardent 
friend  of  America.  I  think,  upon  the  whole,  it  is  upon 
the  largest  scale  of  anything  I  have^  yet  seen.  The 
house  itself  is  six  hundred  and  ten  feet  in  length,  and  the 
width  proportionate.  I  was  forewarned  that  I  should 
lose  my  way  in  it,  and  so  I  have  done  two  or  three  times, 
until,  at  last,  I  have  made  sure  of  my  own  bed-room. 
The  house  is  elegantly  furnished,  parts  of  it  superbly, 
and  the  style  of  living  is  in  keeping.  I  arrived  about 
six,  and  after  a  short  walk  with  my  noble  host,  the 
dressing-bell  rung,  and  I  was  shown  at  once  to  my 
chamber.  This  chamber  is  a  large  and  superb  room, 
called  the  blue-room,  because  papered  with  elegant  blue 
satin  paper,  and  the  bed  and  the  windows  hung  with 
superb  blue  silk  curtains.  My  portmanteau  had  already 
been  carried  there,  and  the  straps  untied  for  opening ; 
a  large  coal  fire  was  blazing ;  candles  were  burning  on 
the  table,  and  water  and  everything  else  necessary  for 
ablution  and  comfort.  There  was,  likewise,  what  is 
always  to  be  found  in  an  English  house,  a  writing-table, 
letter-paper,  note-paper,  new  pens,  ink,  seaHng-wax,  and 


LETTER    XXIX.  99 

wax-taper,  and  a  letter-box  is  kept  in  the  house,  and 
notice  given  to  the  guests  always  at  what  hour  the 
post  will  leave. 

Precisely  at  seven  o'clock,  after  being  fully  dressed,  I 
met  in  the  drawing-room  the  family  for  dinner.  I  found 
there,  to  my  great  delight,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Childers,  of  Don- 
caster,  at  whose  house  I  had  staid  several  days,  and 
most  agreeable  people.  There  was  a  large  family,  and 
several  noblemen  and  gentlemen,  guests  at  the  time.  A 
few  minutes  after  seven,  dinner  was  announced,  and  the 
ladies  were  assigned  to  the  different  gentlemen.  I  had 
the  honor  of  a  companion  to  wait  upon  at  dinner,  who 
proved  a  most  intelligent  and  agreeable  person,  and 
though  of  high  rank,  without  ostentation.  The  hall 
in  which  we  dined  was  magnificent,  and  splendidly 
lighted  ;  the  company  extremely  brilliant ;  about  twelve 
persons  at  table,  and  eleven  men-servants,  some  in 
livery  and  others  in  plain  gentlemanly  apparel,  but  all 
neat  and  elegant.  The  table  was  covered  with  several 
urns  and  vases  of  the  richest  plate ;  and  the  three  first 
courses  were  all  served  on  silver  ;  and  the  last,  the  fmit 
and  confectionary,  upon  China,  of  the  richest  description. 
At  the  dessert  we  had  delicious  peaches  and  nectarines, 
though  so  late  in  the  season.  Dinner  occupies  about 
two  hours,  when  the  ladies  retire,  and  the  gentlemen 
soon  after  go  to  the  drawing-room  for  coffee.  After 
coffee,  we  assembled  for  prayers,  in  the  chapel,  the  ladies 
into  the  gallery,  the  gentlemen  on  the  lower-floor,  into 
some  elevated  side  pews.  Thirty  or  forty  servants  were 
in  their  places  when  we  went  in.  All  kneel,  and  as 
soon  as  evening  service  is  read  by  the  chaplain,  we 
return  to  the  drawing-room,  and    tea    is   served.      Soon 


100  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

after  ten  o'clock,  the  candles  are  brought  in  and  quietly 
placed  upon  the  side-board.  After  returning  to  the 
drawing-room,  the  ladies  took  their  needle  work,  some 
of  the  gentlemen  engaged  in  reading,  some  of  the  party 
in  chess,  and  some  in  conversation.  At  eleven,  the 
ladies  retire,  and  the  gentlemen  soon  follow  suit.  I  rise, 
myself,  soon  after  six,  and  sit  in  my  dressing-gown.  At 
eight,  the  servant  brings  your  clothes,  and  announces  the 
time  for  breakfast.  Immediately  after  breakfast,  horses 
were  ordered  and  carriages,  according  to  your  choice  ; 
and  after  a  ride  of  two  hours  over  the  farm,  with  the 
Earl,  I  returned  to  my  room.  At  hcdf-past  one,  lunch 
is  served.  At  four,  I  was  sent  for  to  go  again  and 
explore  the  farm,  on  horseback,  and  after  visiting  all  the 
establishment,  the  stables,  the  cow-yards,  the  dairy,  the 
saw-mill,  the  smithy,  the  carpenter's  shop,  the  farm-house, 
the  stack-yard,  the  pastures,  the  fields,  the  woods,  the 
parks,  we  returned  again  to  prepare  for  dinner,  at  half- 
past  six.  The  other  matters  much  as  yesterday,  and  the 
evening  has  been  passed  most  agreeably.  Now  I  have 
given  you  an  account  of  one  day  ;  and  if  splendor, 
elegance,  luxury,  and  magnificence,  could  make  one 
happy,  there  could  here  be  no  want.  But  I  am  not 
going  to  speculate  upon  this  subject. 

The  park  around  the  house,  and  the  farm  and  gardens, 
connected  with  it,  contain  sixteen  hundred  acres  ;  be- 
sides that,  the  whole  tract  of  country,  belonging  to  Lord 
Fitzwilliam,  occupied  by  tenants  and  others,  yet  adjoining 
this,  extends  a  distance  of  several  miles  and  in  various 
directions,  presenting  a  landscape  of  hill  and  valley,  of 
copse  and  lawn,  of  wood  and  open  fields,  of  most 
remarkably    beautiful    and    picturesque    scenery.       His 


LETTER    XXIX.  101 

lordship  has  another  place  in  Northamptonshire,  where 
he  farms  more  extensively  than  here,  hesides  immense 
estates  in  Ireland. 

To-day,  I  receiv^ed  a  letter  from  Lord  Worsley,  remind- 
ing me  of  my  promise,  first  to  visit  his  father.  Lord 
Yarborough,  who,  I  believe,  has  a  larger  estate  than  that 
where  I  now  am  ;  and  then  to  visit  his  own  place,  in 
company  with  a  considerable  party  of  gentlemen,  and 
he  desires  that  I  would  remain  over  a  week,  as  he  has 
many  things  to  show  me.  His  residence  is  on  the  Hum- 
ber,  and  I  expect  to  pass  a  night  with  my  old  friend 
Spencer,  on  the  way.  I  begin  to  be  quite  tired  of  loco- 
motion, and  shall  be  glad  to  go  into  winter  quarters. 
A  very  respectable  young  clergyman  here  has  kindly 
offered  me  his  rooms  at  Cambridge  University  this  win- 
ter, he  being  a  fellow  of  the  College,  but  not  resident ; 
and  if  I  will  go  there,  desires  me  to  occupy  them  as  long 
as  I  please.  This  is  certainly  very  kind.  He  says  they 
are  all  in  order  for  immediate  occupation.  I  have  promised 
to  go  to  Cambridge  to  visit  Lord  Hardwicke,  who  has 
written  to  me  to  claim  my  promise  to  make  him  a  ^•isit. 
If  I  think  I  can  do  my  writing  as  well  at  Cambridge  as 
in  London,  I  do  not  know  that  I  shall  not  avail  myself 
of  so  courteous  an  offer,  as  it  was  volunteered  in  a  most 
friendly  manner.     I  will,  at  least,  go  and  see. 


9* 


102  KTTROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 


LETTER    XXX. 

Nottinghamshire,  8th  Oct.,  1843. 


My  Deak  S : 

V'*^  I  BEGIN  early  and  will  first  thank  you  for  your  kind 
letter,  which  did  not  contain  much  news,  but  was  heartily 
welcome,  as  a  token  of  your  affectionate  remembrance. 
As  the  sands  in  my  glass  diminish,  every  token  of  good 
will  acquires  an  increased  value.  A  parent,  worthy  of 
the  name,  would  desire,  above  all  things,  to  find  a  re- 
sponse to  his  feelings  in  the  hearts  of  his  children  ;  and 
much  as  I  have  seen  of  the  world,  of  its  triumphs,  of  its 
gaieties,  and  of  its  luxury  and  magnificence,  I  have  never 
been  for  a  moment  shaken  in  the  conviction  that  the 
best  thing  this  side  heaven,  the  delight  of  life,  its  chief 
consolation,  indeed,  the  very  charm  of  existence,  is  in 
kind  affections. 

You  see  the  date  of  my  letter,  and  I  have  seldom  in 
my  life  passed  a  more  agreeable  Sunday.  I  have  been 
twice  at  church,  and  am  staying  with  the  clergyman. 
He  is  a  gentleman  of  fortune,  and  though  without  title 
himself,  he  married  a  lady  of  rank,  and  his  family  are 
allied  by  blood  or  marriage  to  some  of  the  highest  aris- 
tocracy in  the  kingdom.  He  specially  invited  me  to 
come  and  pass  a  few  days  with  him  ;  and  I  came  by  ap- 
pointment yesterday,  and  shall  leave  to-morrow,  as  my 
engagements  do  not  admit  of  longer  delay,  though  he 
V  has  urged  me  to  remain.  He  has  a  small  church  ;  a 
parish,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  families,  composed 
principally  of  tenant  farmers  and  laborers.     His  salary  is 


LETTER    XXX.  103 

£900,  that  is  about  ^4,500,  and  a  house  and  glebe  of 
about  forty  acres.  His  father,  a  man  of  great  wealth, 
lives  directly  in  his  neighborhood.  Imagine  a  beautiful 
country,  not  naturally  fertile,  but  made  one  of  the  most 
productive  by  cultivation,  and  everywhere  covered  with 
a  luxuriant  vegetation  ;  imagine  roads  as  fine  as  can  be 
trodden,  without  a  pebble  to  impede  the  carriage,  and 
bounded  with  green  and  neatly-trimmed  hedges  ;  imagine 
here  and  there  a  substantial  farm-house,  suiTOunded  with 
acres  and  acres  of  green  crops,  and  many  of  them  with 
stacks  of  wheat  and  barley  made  in  the  most  finished 
and  beautiful  manner,  in  some  cases  twenty,  thirty,  and 
even  forty  in  number,  containing,  by  estimate,  two  hun- 
dred and  three  hundred  bushels  of  grain  each  (I  am  only 
stating  facts ;)  imagine  your  approach  to  a  large  cluster 
of  ornamental  trees,  through  which  you  see  the  turrets  of 
the  house  rising  and  occasionally  appearing  and  disap- 
pearing as  you  approach ;  imagine  several  smooth 
avenues,  bordered  with  shiTibs  and  flowers  of  the  richest 
description  ;  imagine  an  extensive  lawn,  stretching  far 
away  in  front  of  one  side  of  the  house,  as  smooth  as  Milton 
describes  it,  with  the  sheep  and  cattle  grazing  upon  it ; 
imagine  a  beautiful  mirrored  lake  of  half  a  mile  in  length 
and  con-esponding  width,  glistening  and  sparkling  at  the 
foot  of  the  lawn  ;  imagine  a  grove  of  magnificent  forest 
trees,  in  the  rear  of  the  parsonage,  with  the  tower  of  the 
old  church  mantled  with  ivy,  showing  its  gray  and  ven- 
erable image  among  these  trees,  with  its  church-yard,  and 
marble  and  moss-grown  monuments,  where  Old  Mortality 
inight  find  congenial  employment  for  days  and  months, 
and  you  will  have  some  little  notion  of  the  exterior  of 
my  transient  resting-place.     Now  enter  the  house,  and 


104  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

find  the  libraries  stored  with  books,  and  the  drawing-rooms, 
elegant  in  their  plainest  attire,  but  crowded  with  the 
most  beautiful  objects  of  ornament  and  curiosity,  and 
fitted  up  with  every  possible  appendage  of  luxury  and 
comfort ;  imagine  an  elegant  dining-room,  the  table 
covered  with  the  richest  plate,  and  this  plate  filled  with 
the  richest  viands  which  the  culinary  art  and  the  vintage 
and  the  fruit-garden  can  supply  ;  imagine  a  horse  at  your 
disposal,  a  servant  at  your  command  to  anticipate  every 
want ;  imagine  an  elegant  bed-chamber,  a  bright  coal- 
fire,  fresh  water  in  basins,  in  goblets,  in  tubs,  napkins 
without  stint  as  white  as  snow,  a  double  mattress,  a 
French  bed,  sheets  of  the  finest  linen,  a  canopy  of  the 
richest  silk,  a  table  portfolio,  writing  apparatus  and  sta- 
tionery, allumettes,  a  night-lamp,  candles  and  silver  candle- 
sticks, and  beautiful  paintings  and  exquisite  statuary,  and 
every  kind  of  chair  or  sofa  but  a  rocking-chair,  and  then 
you  will  have  some  little  notion  of  the  place  where 
I  now  am,  and  indeed  a  pretty  accurate  and  not 
exaggerated  description  of  my  residences  for  the  last 
three  weeks  —  four  weeks  —  five  weeks  —  three  months 
—  I  cannot  say  how  long,  and  then  judge  whether  it 
is  not  likely  entirely  to  spoil  me.  For  the  last  fortnight, 
for  example,  with  the  exception  of  one  day,  I  have  dined 
off  of  nothing  but  silver  and  porcelain,  and  have  sat 
down  each  day  to  a  table  as  sumptuous  and  abundant, 
and  various  and  elegant  as  I  ever  saw  at  any  dinner- 
party in  Boston,  indeed,  more  so,  and  much  of  the  time 
with  a  large  party  of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  as  elegant  in 
dress  and  manners  as  you  can  meet  with  ;  never  with  less 
than  four  men-servants,  many  times  with  eight  or  ten, 
and  in  one  case  I  counted  eleven,   eight  of  whom   were 


LETTER    XXXI.  105 

in  elegant  livery,  trimmed  with  silver  anjj  with  silver 
epaulettes,  &.C.,  k,c.  What  do  you  think  is  to  become 
of  me,  for  here  I  have  got  a  month  before  me  of  the 
same  engagements,  and  six  months,  indeed,  if  I  would  only 
accept  my  invitations.  Many  of  these,  too,  are  from 
gentlemen  whom  I  have  never  seen,  and  all  of  them  are 
volunteers.  Lord  Yarborough,  where  I  go  to-morrow,  I 
have  never  seen,  though  I  have  seen  his  son,  who  is  a 
Member  of  Parliament,  and  my  invitation  is  to  be  there 
on  the  10th,  and  by  all  means  to  stay  to  theii-  cattle- 
show,  on  the  17th. 

But  I  have  not  told  you,  after  all,  the  best  things  I 
have  found  here  —  a  gentleman  and  lady  of  the  highest 
refinement  and  cultivation  ;  he  a  clergyman,  lovmg  his 
duties  and  his  people  loving  him,  and  doing  what  he  can 
to  make  them  happier  and  better ;  and  his  wife  a 
gentle,  courteous  lady,  entering  into  his  tastes,  and  with 
ample  means,  the  benefactor  of  her  neighborhood.  The 
premonitory  dinner-bell  rings,  seven  o'clock. 

Monday  morning.  1  leave  this  forenoon.  Some  gen- 
tlemen are  invited  to  breakfast  with  me,  and  I  must  close 
—  so  says  the  paper  also.  Adieu. 


LETTER   XXXL 

TO    A    BOY. 


Bransby,  14tli  Oct.,  1843. 

Well,  my  dear  E ,  how  has  the  summer  gone 

with  you  ?     Have  you  studied  hard  and  worked  hard  and 
played  hard  ?     Do  you  know  more   than  you  did  in  the 


i06         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

spring  ?  Have  you  grown  fond  of  your  books  ?  Is  your 
attic  story  tenanted  now  by  such  occupants  as  you  like 
to  keep  there,  or  is  it  empty,  and  the  walls  covered  with 
cobwebs ;  or  has  it  a  tenantry  that  ought  never  to  have 
been  admitted,  and  ought  as  soon  as  possible  to  be  turned 
out :  I  mean  idle,  useless,  frivolous  thoughts  and  plans 
and  notions  ?  Think  of  these  things,  and  determine 
that  you  will  not  live  and  die  a  blockhead  or  an  ignora- 
mus. 

I  should  like  to  have  you  see  some  things  which  I  have 
seen,  because  many  of  them  would  be  quite  to  your  taste. 
I  think  you  would  like  to  ride  a  jackass  or  donkey,  pa- 
tient, humble  creatures,  with  ears  long  enough  for  reins 
—  poor  things  !  never  but  one  of  them,  that  I  ever  heard 
of,  was  ever  known  to  say  a  word,  whatever  burden  was 
laid  upon  him.  They  are  very  much  used  here,  some- 
times boys,  sometimes  women,  often  men  riding  them, 
with  their  feet  almost  touching  the  ground  ;  most  com- 
monly they  are  harnessed  to  small  carts  and  draw  heavy 
loads,  and  I  have  seen  them  repeatedly  with  two  large 
kegs  of  milk  slung  on  their  sides  and  a  boy  riding  at  the 
same  time,  with  a  quart  pot,  selling  milk  in  the  towns. 
Yesterday  I  saw  another  sight,  four  dog  carts,  two  dogs 
in  each,  trotting  off  in  grand  style.  They  had  been  at 
some  market-town,  probably  with  loads  of  fish,  and  were 
now  returning ;  one  of  these  carts  will  frequently  have 
three  persons  on  it,  which  seems  to  me  a  great  cruelty. 
In  the  parks  in  London,  you  find  carriages  for  riding 
with  goats  attached  to  them,  for  the  amusement  of  chil- 
dren ;  I  have  frequently  seen  these  carriages  elegantly 
constructed,  drawn  by  four   goats  well   harnessed  and 


l.KTTEK    XXXI.  107 

trained.  At  all  the  public  corners  and  places  of  resort 
near,  you  find  donkeys  saddled  and  prepared  for  young 
people  to  ride,  with  boys  in  attendance  to  let  and  manage. 
The  day  before  yesterday  I  was  introduced  to  a  ken- 
nel of  fox-hounds,  eighty  in  number.  The  huntsman 
was  with  me,  or  I  should  have  been  afraid  they  might 
have  mistaken  me  for  a  fox,  then  woe  be  to  me !  It 
was  their  feeding  hour.  Their  provision  is  oat-meal 
scalded,  and  soup  made  of  horse-beef,  several  quarters  of 
which  were  hung  up  in  the  larder.  They  kill  an  old 
horse  for  them  about  twice  in  a  week.  Professor  Buckland 
tasted  the  soup  and  the  cooked  horse,  for  which,  though 
invited,  I  had  no  inclination.  Much  good  may  it  do  him. 
It  was  fimny  to  see  the  dogs  called  out,  every  one  by  his 
own  name,  and  all  of  them  knowing  their  places  and 
afraid  to  come  until  they  were  called.  They  have  a 
bell  hung  over  their  bed  ;  they  all  sleep  together,  so  that 
if  they  quarrel  or  have  any  angry  discussions  after  bed 
time,  the  keeper  rings  the  bell,  and  they  know  the  whip 
will  follow  the  bell  immediately  if  they  are  not  still. 
Lord  Worsley  kindly  invited  me  to  stay  and  hunt  on 
Saturday.  But  what  a  figure  your  old  friend  would 
have  cut,  leaping  over  the  fences  and  ditches  upon  a 
hunter,  and  perhaps  tumbling  head  foremost,  so  as  to 
give  the  horse  a  chance  of  jumping  over  his  back.  This 
would  have  furnished  a  better  subject  for  a  picture  than 
even  a  journey  with  your  father  to  the  White  Hills. 


108         EUROPEAN  LIVE  AND  MANNERS. 

LETTER  XXXII. 

Bransby,  Lincolnsliire,  14th  Oct.,  1843. 
My  Dear  Sir  : 

I  BEGIN  with  wishing  most  earnestly  that  you  would 
take  care  of  your  health  ;  if  you  do  not  value  it  your- 
self, remember  how  much  your  friends  do.  The  weather 
was  never  finer  than  it  has  been  for  the  last  three  months  ; 
there  has  not  been  a  single  day  to  confine  me  ;  two  days 
this  week  were  partially  rainy,  but  I  rode  on  horseback 
each  day  thirty  miles  without  inconvenience. 

You  will  see  by  my  letters  to  Mrs.  C where  I 

have  been.  The  last  four  weeks  has  been  a  season  of 
unceasing  festivity,  at  least  to  a  novice  like  me,  familiar 
as  it  may  be  to  those  whom  I  have  been  visiting ;  and 
yesterday,  at  Spital  Inn,  was  the  first  instance,  for  this 
time,  when  I  have  sat  down  to  a  plain  dinner,  or  indeed 
when  I  have  been  at  a  table  otherwise  than  sumptuous 
and  elegant. 

The  incomes  of  many  noblemen  and  gentlemen  here 

are  indeed  enormous.     Earl is  stated  to  have  an 

annual  income  of  upwards  of  £100,000  sterling.     The 

Duke  of has  actually  spent  more  than   £40,000 

sterling  in  draining  and  irrigating  his  property,  so  you 
may  infer  firom  that  what  possibly  may  be  his  posses- 
sions.    That  expenditure  is  not  even  felt  by  him.     And 

Earl is  estimated  at  least  at  £150,000  sterling  per 

year.  The  accumulation  of  property  here  is  in  some 
cases  amazing,  and  entirely  beyond  my  arithmetic.  Now, 
let  me  state  some  other  facts.     Earl has  at  least 


LETTER    XXXII.  '    109 

eighty  house  servants.      The  Duke  of  has  eighty 

horses  in  liis  stables  —  say  nothing  of  his  farm-hoi-ses  — 
forty  of  which  are  hunters,  besides  a  very  large  number 
of  race-horses  at  other  stables.  Earl  has  pro- 
bably fifty  race-horses.  Lord  Yarborough  has  an  inde- 
finite number  of  hunters,  Stc,  &c.,  and  what  amused  me 
very  much,  was  a  pack  of  fox  hounds,  of  forty  couples. 
Lord  VVorsley,  his  son,  kindly  wished  me  to  stay  until 
Saturday,  to  go  out  upon  a  fox-chase.  Good  Heavens ! 
only  think  of  that  —  what  was  to  become  of  my  wife's  old 
husband,  mounted  upon  a  fleet  hunter,  leaping  hedge 
and  ditch,  with  a  pack  of  yelping  hounds  at  his  heels, 
the  huntsman's  horn  making  the  woods  ring  again,  after 
a  poor  trembling  fox,  and  bringing  home  the  tail  in  his 
hat  in  triumph,  that  is,  if  his  neck  were  not  broken  at 
the  first  leap.  The  very  idea  electrified  me,  and  my 
blood  still  boils  at  the  thought.  It  was  the  custom  at 
this  place  for  his  Lordship,  and  his  guests  were  always 
invited  to  accompany  him,  at  nine  o'clock  precisely, 
in  the  evening,  to  visit  the  stables,  where  the  hunting 
and  riding  horses  were  kept,  which  were  reached  by  a 
covered  passage-way  from  the  house.  The  stables 
presented  all  the  neatness  of  a  house  parlor ;  and  the 
grooms  were  more  than  a  dozen  in  number,  all  drawn  up 
in  line,  to  receive  the  company.  His  Lordship  examined 
every  stall,  and  looked  at  every  horse.  This  regulation 
was  certainly  conducive  to  the  faithful  management  of 
this  department  of  the  household,  and  it  had  another 
indirect  advantage  of  taking  the  gentlemen  away  from 
the  table,  where,  at  that  hour,  they  had  sat  long  enough. 
The  Duke  of  Portland  has  drained,  and  by  turning 
the  course  of  a  river,  now  irrigates  at  his  pleasure, 
10 


110  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

between  three  and  four  hundred  acres  of  land,  covered 
by  this  means  with  the  richest  vegetation,  and  yielding 
three  crops  per  year.  Lord  Yarborough  has  more  than 
sixty  thousand  acres  of  land  in  his  plantation.  He  has 
one  hundred  and  fifty  tenant  farmers  —  he  has  six 
hundred  tenants  in  all  ;  and  you  can  ride  upon  his  land 
in  a  direct  line,  thirty  miles  —  so  his  steward  told  me. 
What  an  immense  property  !  He  and  his  father  have 
planted  more  than  thirteen  millions  of  trees  of  various 
descriptions.  One  of  his  tenants  told  me  that  in  one 
year  he  (the  tenant)  grew  eighteen  thousand  bushels  of 
wheat ;  and  I  saw  a  great  many  stacks  of  grain  which 
were  estimated  to  contain  one  hundred  quarters  of  grain, 
that  is,  eight  hundred  bushels  ;  and  one  barley-stack 
fifty-four  yards  long,  and  several  forty-eight  feet  in 
height,  and  width  proportional.  This  is  farming  with  a 
witness.  It  is  stated  further  that  the  Duke  of  Portland 
has  made  seven  thousand  miles  of  drains,  which  I  think 
must  be  a  mistake  for  seven  hundred,  though  I  am 
assured  not ;  I  will  not  assert,  however,  what  seems  to 
me  so  incredible. 

I  thought  some  of  these  facts  might  amuse,  if  they  did 
not,  as  they  do  me,  surprise  you.  Many  of  the  tenants 
of  Lord  Yarborough  pay  one  thousand  and  fourteen 
hundred  guineas  a  year  rent,  and  several  of  them  whom 
I  visited,  live  like  noblemen,  keeping  their  dogs,  horses, 
carriages,  and  servants  in  livery.  Farming  here  is  a 
profession,  and  one  of  the  highest  that  can  be  pursued. 
I  want  to  say  a  thousand  things  to  you,  but  I  cannot  — 
I  have  stolen  this  day,  and  have  called  upon  my  old  friend 
Spencer,  formerly  of  Salem,  and  begged  a  day's  retire- 
ment in  his  house,  that  I  might  write  by  the  steamer. 


LETTER    XXXII.  1  1  1 

I  was  in  Manchester  a  fortnii^ht  since.  I  never  saw 
a  place  of  more  activity  ;  but  the  appearance  of  the 
operatives,  and  of  the  factories,  presents  a  sad  contrast 
to  Lowell  and  Chicopee.  The  agricultural  population 
of  England,  in  their  houses,  are  remarkable  for  their 
neatness ;  the  manufacturing  population,  as  far  as  I 
have  yet  seen,  have  not  a  shadow  of  a  claim  to  this 
reputation.  I  am  constantly  inquired  of,  whether  a 
repeal  of  the  corn  laws  of  Great  Britain,  would  not 
be  followed  by  an  immediate  abandonment  of  the 
tariff'  of  the  United  States.  To  which  I  can  only 
answer,  why  should  it  ?  The  manufacturing  interest 
in  the  United  States,  is  one  of  its  largest  interests, 
and  the  tariff  I  presume  will  remain  untouched.  I 
am  obliged  to  keep  as  clear  as  possible  of  politics, 
though  often  baited  on  the  subject,  as  it  would  present 
a  serious  impediment  to  my  success  if  I  committed 
myself  to  either  party  ;  and  what  good  would  come  of 
it  if  I  did  ? 

I  met  several  agreeable  gentlemen,  members  of  Par- 
liament, at  Lord  Yarborough's,  and  the  learned  Geologist, 

Dr.  Buckland.     We  were  engaged  to  go  to  Mr.  C 's, 

a  member  of  Parliament,  to-day,  to  spend  two  or  three 
days,  but  I  wanted  rest,  and  declined  the  invitation.  On 
Tuesday,  we  meet  again  for  a  few  days  at  Sir  John 
Trollope's,  and  again  in  November,  for  a  week,  at  Lord 
Hatherton's.  Excepting  an  engagement  at  the  Duke 
of  Richmond's,  at  Christmas,  and  one  other  at  Mr. 
Hasler's,  near  him,  I  think  I  must  abandon  all  others 
until  the  spring.     Adieu. 


112  EUROPEAN    LIFE     AND    MANNER!^ 


LETTER    XXXIII. 

Bransby,  14lh  October,  1843. 

TO    A    YOUNG    FRIEND. 

My  Dear  E : 

Suppose  that  you  and  I  have  a  few  words  with  each 
other  ;  they  will  be  words  of  kindness  and  love,  and  I 
dare  say  we  shall  both  be  the  happier  for  it.  I  begin 
then,  by  saying  that  I  hope  the  souvenir  suited  you.  I 
cannot  guess  whether  the  gloves,  or  the  bag,  fell  to  your 
lot,  but  be  it  which  it  might,  I  hope  it  reminded  you  of 
my  constant  and  most  affectionate  remembrance.  I  am 
thinking  often,  what  a  tall  young  lady  I  shall  see,  when 
I  get  home,  if  Heaven  ever  grants  me  that  blessing ; 
good,  I  know  she  will  be,  and  I  hope  as  intelligent  and 
accomplished,  as  such  a  young  lady  should  be.  I  have 
not  met  with  many  young  ladies  of  your  age  since  I 
have  been  here.  At  most  of  the  houses  there  is  such  a 
constant  round  and  multitude  of  visiters,  that  they  are 
kept  quite  in  retirement ;  but  when  I  have  seen  any  of 
them,  I  have  found  them  full  of  their  studies,  and 
obtaining  an  education  in  all  the  ornamental  and  sub- 
stantial accomplishments.  Indeed,  what  is  a  young  lady 
without  a  good  education  worth,  unless  it  should  be 
merely  as  a  well-dressed  image,  or  piece  of  statuary,  to 
be  set  up  in  a  comer  or  a  glass  case.  But  education 
is  valuable,  not  merely  nor  principally  that  we  may 
command  respect  and  attention  from  others,  but  as  a 
resource  of  pleasure  within  ourselves,  a  storehouse  from 
which  we  may  gather  the  elements  of  the  highest  kind  of 


LETTER    XXXIII.  113 

enjoyment  and  happiness,  that  which  is  intehcctual  and 
moral,  from  within  ourselves,  and  independent  of  the 
changes    and    caprices    of  fortune.     I    hope,  my   dear 

E ,  while  acquiring  the  common  branches  of  learning, 

tiiat  is,  the  means  of  educating  yourself,  you  will  remem- 
ber, that  at  school,  education  is  only  begun  ;  that  at 
school  you  are  only  learning  to  learn ;  that  the  principal 
work  is  to  be  done  by  yourself,  and  that  you  will  not 
fail  to  give  a  good  deal  of  time  to  reading  at  home. 
History  and  Biography  should  especially  attract  your 
attention  ;  and  as  you  advance,  the  philosophy  of  the 
mind,  and  of  morals,  should  be  made  particular  subjects 
of  study.  You  are  now  getting  to  be  old  enough  for 
this,  and  though  at  first  such  studies  may  seem  dry,  yet 
application  will  make  them  interesting,  and  they  will  do 
much  to  enlarge  and  strengthen  the  mind.  I  am  quite 
tired  of  the  current  opinion  that  the  education  of  women 
should  be  limited  to  studies  merely  superficial ;  of  all 
studies,  that  of  the  constitution  of  their  minds  is  among 
the  most  important,  and  that  of  their  moral  character 
and  obligations,  a  matter  of  the  highest  duty.  But  I  am 
afraid  this  is  very  dry  to  you,  and  if  so,  lay  it  aside  and 
read  it  again  a  year  hence. 

I  wish  I  had  something  pretty  to  tell  you,  but  my 
well  is  dry  ;  I  have  been  at  the  pump  all  day,  and 
whether  any  more  supply  will  ever  come  in,  remains  to 
be  seen.  Besides  my  letters  to  America,  I  have  had 
several  others  to  write.     Adieu. 

P.  S.     I  must  tell  you  a  process  in  education,  which 

I  witnessed  a    few  days  since  in  a  nobleman's  family. 

A  number  of  young  ladies  were  in  the  family,  the  oldest 

perhaps  sixteen  ;    an  old  soldier,  who  had  been  many 

10* 


114         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

years  an  orderly-sergeant  in  the  army,  was  employed 
daily  to  drill  them  in  marching,,  walking,  "  looking  well 
to  the  right,"  and  various  other  military  manoeuvres, 
which  seemed  to  me  to  conduce  not  a  little  to  their 
erectness,  the  expansion  of  their  chests,  and  the  proper 
management  of  their  arms,  not  always  an  easy  matter, 
and  likewise  to  the  grace  and  dignity  of  their  whole 
movement.     One  brother  was  drilled  with  them. 


LETTER    XXXIV. 

Bransby,  14th  October,  1843. 
My  Dear  M : 

From  Earl  Fitzwilliam's,  I  went  to  the  Duke  of 
Portland's,  at  Welbeck  Abbey.  I  believe  I  told  you 
that  he  was  kind  enough  to  send  a  special  messenger 
twenty  miles,  to  invite  me,  and  to  determine  the  time  of 
my  visit,  that  he  might  be  sure  to  be  at  home,  so  that 
he  might  show  me,  in  person,  all  his  improvements.  It 
would  be  impossible  to  be  received  with  more  kindness 
than  I  had,  both  from  the  Duke  and  the  Duchess.  He 
is  a  perfect  gentleman  of  the  old  school,  seventy-five 
years  old,  and  she  an  exceedingly  attentive  and  sensible 
person.  They  live  with  an  elegance  and  splendor  you 
can  have  very  little  idea  of,  and  at  the  same  time  a 
simplicity,  negligee,  or  make-yourself-at-home  treatment, 
the  most  agreeable  possible.  The  Duke  himself,  devot- 
ed two  whole  days  exclusively  to  me ;  one  day,  riding 
thirty  miles  on  horseback  ;  another  day  he  sent  me  on 
horseback,  with  a  servant,  to  see  the  ruins  of  Hardwick 


LETTER    XXXIV.  115 

Castle  and  Hardwick  Hall,  about  fifteen  miles.  This  took 
four  nights,  all  the  time  which  I  could  spare  ;  and  then  he 
sent  me  in  his  chariot  several  miles,  to  meet  the  coach  ; 
think  of  poor  me  in  a  chariot,  with  four  horses,  a 
postilion  and  footman,  travelling  alone  through  those  noble 
parks  and  roads.  I  dare  say  I  scared  half  the  geese  in 
the  country,  and  it  would  have  been  quite  an  amusement 
to  you,  to  have  seen  how  the  innkeeper  and  the  land- 
lady, and  the  landlady's  maids,  and  the  footmen,  and  the 
grooms,  came  running  to  the  door,  when  I  drove  up  to 
the  hotel,  and  how  many  hands  were  ready  to  help  me 
out  of  the  carriage,  and  take  care  of  my  baggage,  and 
show  me  in,  and  show  me  up.  Poor  things  !  how  I  pitied 
them,  when,  as  I  foresaw,  they  must  soon  find  me  out, 
a  plain,  simple  republican.  However,  I  paid  my  postil- 
ion, and  footman,  and  porter,  in  a  very  proper  style,  and 
I  believe  we  parted  friends,  without  any  serious  doubts 
of  my  real  aristocracy,  as  far  as  that  went. 

I  had  supposed  I  had  seen,  several  times  before,  the 
summit  of  luxurious  and  elegant  living,  but  this  I  confess 
went  beyond  what  I  had  met  with,  and  the  beauty  of 
the  whole  was,  that  though  there  \\  ere  so  many  parts, 
wheel  within  wheel,  and  one  spring  depending  for  its 
tehsion  and  its  movements  upon  another,  yet  there  was 
not  the  slightest  jarring  or  creaking,  and  although,  for 
aught  I  know,  there  were  one  hundred  servants  about, 
and  I  do  not  believe  there  were  many  less,  you  would 
scarcely  have  supposed,  from  any  noise  by  night  or  day, 
that  there  was  one  within  a  mile. 

I  asked,  when  I  retired,  what  time  do  you  breakfast  ? 
The  Duke  replied,  "just  what  time  you  please,  from  nine 
to  twelve."     I  always  came  down  at  nine  precisely,  and 


116         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

found  the  Duchess  at  her  breakfast.  About  half-past  nine 
the  Duke  would  come  in,  and  the  ladies,  one  by  one, 
soon  after.  At  breakfast,  the  side-table  would  have  on 
it,  cold  ham,  cold  chicken,  cold  pheasant  or  partridge, 
which  you  ask  for,  or  to  which,  as  is  most  common, 
you  get  up  and  help  yourself.  On  the  breakfast  table 
were  several  kinds  of  the  best  bread  possible,  butter 
always  fresh,  made  that  morning,  as  I  have  found  at  all 
these  houses ;  and  if  you  asked  for  coffee,  or  chocolate, 
it  would  be  brought  to  you  in  a  silver  cofFee-pot,  and  you 
helped  yourself;  if  for  tea,  you  would  have  a  silver  um 
to  each  guest,  heated  by  alcohol,  placed  by  you,  a 
small  teapot,  and  a  small  caddie  of  black  and  green  tea 
to  make  for  yourself,  or  the  servant  for  you.  The 
papers  of  the  morning,  from  London,  (for  a  country 
paper  is  rarely  seen,)  were  then  brought  to  you,  and 
your  letters,  if  any.  At  breakfast,  the  arrangements 
were  made  for  the  day,  and  if  you  were  to  ride,  choose 
your  mode,  and  at  the  minute,  the  horses  and  servants 
would  be  at  the  door. 

At  two  o'clock  is  the  lunch,  which  I  was  not  at  home 
to  take,  and  very  rarely  do  take.  A  lunch  at  such 
houses,  is  in  fact  a  dinner  ;  the  table  is  set  at  half-past 
one,  not  quite  so  large  as  for  dinner.  Commonly,  there 
is  roast  meat  warm,  birds,  warm  or  cold,  cold  chicken, 
cold  beef,  cold  ham,  bread,  butter,  cheese,  fruit,  beer, 
ale  and  wines,  and  every  one  takes  it  as  he  pleases, 
standing,  sitting,  waiting  for  the  rest,  or  not,  and  going 
away  when  he  pleases ;  dinner  at  seven,  sometimes  at 
eight,  when  all  are  congregated  in  the  drawing-room,  five 
minutes  before  the  hour,  in  full  dress.  I  have  already 
told  you  the  course  at  dinner,  but  at  many  houses,  there 


.LETTER    XXXIV.  117 

is  always  a  bill  of  fare  —  in  this  case  written,  I  had 
almost  said  engraved,  on  the  most  elegant  embossed  and 
colored  paper ;  always  in  French,  and  passed  round  to 
the  guests.  Three  days  in  succession,  we  had  different 
kinds  of  excellent  fish,  taken  from  ponds  directly  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  house,  on  the  Duke's  own  grounds. 
After  dinner,  we  had,  every  day,  peaches,  nectarines, 
grapes,  and  pine-apples  in  abundance.  There  were 
six  of  us  at  dinner,  daily,  and  eleven  servants,  most  of 
them  in  livery ;  the  livery  here;  consists  of  light  yellow 
shorts  and  waistcoat,  with  white  cotton  or  silk  stockings, 
and  pumps,  a  long  blue  coat  trimmed  with  silver  lace 
and  buttons,  and  silver  epaulets  on  each  shoulder,  and 
white  cravats  ;  those  out  of  livery,  were  in  full  suits  of 
black,  and  if  you  meet  the  female  servants  of  the  upper 
class,  you  must  take  care  not  to  mistake  them  for  the 
ladies  of  the  house,  as  there  is  little  to  distinguish  them 
in  point  of  elegance  of  dress.  After  dinner,  in  half  an 
hour,  the  ladies  retire,  and  in  another  half  hour  the 
gentlemen  meet  them  in  the  drawing-room.  Then  do 
what  you  please  ;  read,  play,  talk,  look  at  pictures  and 
books,  wait  the  retiring  of  others,  or,  at  your  pleasure, 
you  may  find  a  candle  in  the  passage,  and  go  to  your 
chamber,  where  you  find  a  good  fire,  and  every  thing 
requisite  for  your  comfort  and  convenience,  in  perfect 
readiness  and  order.  If  you  want  a  servant,  there  is  one 
at  your  elbow  ;  if  you  require  a  laundress,  your  valet 
will  take  your  clothes,  and  they  will  be  returned  as  soon 
as  possible,  in  the  best  order,  with  the  bill.  Now  adieu. 
P.  S.  I  forgot  to  say,  if  you  leave  your  chamb(;r 
twenty  times  a  day,  after  using  your  basin,  you  would 
find  it  clean,  and  the  pitcher  replenished  on  your  return  ; 


118         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

and  that  you  cannot  take  your  clothes  off,  but  they  are 
taken  away,  brushed,  folded,  pressed,  and  placed  in  the 
bureau,  and  at  the  dressing  hour,  before  dinner,  you  find 
your  candles  lighted,  your  clothes  laid  out,  your  shoes 
cleaned,  and  every  thing  arranged  for  use.  I  never  saw 
more  attention.  I  can  hardly  conceive  of  more  perfect 
house-keeping,  for  you  scarcely  ever  see  or  hear  anybody, 
unless  you  ring  a  bell,  when  a  servant  suddenly  appears 
before  you,  as  if  from  the  wainscoting.  I  hope  these 
details,  as  they  are  all  designed  for  your  personal  gratifi- 
cation, will   be  to  your  taste. 


LETTER  XXXV. 

Bransby,  Lincolnsliire,  15th  October,  1843. 
TO    A    YOUNG    FRIEND. 

I  HAVE  been  considering  whether  I  should  write  to 
you  or  your  father ;  but  as  both  he  and  your  mother  are 
a  good  deal  in  my  debt,  and  I  am  in  yours,  I  have  con- 
cluded to  set  them  the  example  of  discharging  my  own 
obligations,  that  they  may  be  prompted  to  do  likewise. 

Your  letter  pleased  me  greatly  ;  it  was  elegantly 
written.  To  a  merchant,  a  good  hand-writing,  I  may 
say  an  elegant  hand-writing,  is  of  much  importance,  and 
more  especially  to  an  accountant.  I  believe,  too,  that 
by  careful  practice,  one  may  acquire  the  power  of  writing 
always  without  erasures,  corrections,  omissions  or  inter- 
lineations, all  of  which  very  much  disfigure  a  letter  or  a 
manuscript ;  and  this  is  quite  desirable.     Several  gentle- 


LETTER    XXXV.  119 

men  whom  I  have  known,  write  elegantly,  and  without 
error  or  blot ;  as  Governor  Everett,  for  example,  whose 
manuscript  looks  almost  like  engraving.  This  I  always 
greatly  admire.  I  am  much  better  able  to  advise  in  this 
matter,  than  to  practise,  not  knowing  early  the  importance 
of  this  care  ;  the  opportunity  of  acquiring  the  habit  being 
lost,  and  a  contrary  habit  being  established,  it  is  idle  for  an 
old  marh  to  attempt  a  refomiation.  You  have  an  oppor- 
tunity in  this  matter,  to  do  as  you  please  ;  deteniiine 
therefore,  that  whatever  you  undertake  to  do,  you  will 
do  as  well  as  it  can  be  done.  Exactness  in  small 
matters,  will  give  you  immense  advantages  in  great 
matters.     I  am  very  glad  you  are  in  the  place  you  are. 

For I  have  a  great  regard ;  for  your  success  and  good 

conduct  I  shall  always  feel  the  most  affectionate  soli- 
citude. Whenever  you  grow  remiss,  which  I  hope  will 
never  be  ;  whenever  you  are  tempted  to  omit  any  duty 
whatever,  or  do  any  wrong  whatever,  remember  your 
dear  mother,  and  that  you  have  her  happiness  and  that 
of  many  others  in  your  keeping.  I  am  persuaded  you 
will  do  well,  and  in  order  to  this,  your  business  and  the 
interests  and  just  claims  of  your  employer,  must  be  your 
first  object.  The  character  of  an  upright  and  intelligent 
merchant,  is  among  the  most  honorable  in  our  commu- 
nity ;    and  this,  I  hope   and   trust  you  will   fully  attain, 

and  always  maintain.      Your  uncle ,  who  will  have 

great  power  to  assist  you,  will  always  be  your  friend,  if 
you  show  yourself  worthy  of  his  esteem. 

You  recollect  Mr.  Spencer,  of  Gibraltar  memory.  He 
is  now  a  large  and  wealthy  farmer  in  England,  an  estate 
having  been  left  him  by  a  relative.  He  wrote  me  a 
most  kind  and  pressing  letter  to  visit  him,  offering  me  his 


120  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

hand,  and  his  house,  and  his  heart,  and  to  complete  the 
Hst,  his  horse,  to  travel  where  I  pleased.  This  was  very 
friendly,  and  I  have  turned  out  of  my  way  twenty  miles, 
to  pass  three  days  with  him.  I  think  he  still  loves  New 
England  a  great  deal  better  than  Old  England  ;  but  he  is 
doing  well  here.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  ornaments 
of  his  place,  and  some  of  the  handsomest  objects  I  have 
seen  in  the  country,  are  three  Mountain  Ash  trees,  full 
of  clusters  of  red  berries,  given  him  by  your  father,  from 
the  garden  at  Elfin-glen  ;  I  have  had  great  pleasure  in 
looking  at  these  trees,  but  I  should  have  had  a  good  deal 
more  in  looking  at  some  things  of  another  kind,  which 
belong  to  Elfin-glen,  and  which  I  should  like  to  see,  in 
their  proper  place. 

The  merchants  here  are  many  of  them  men  of  great 
wealth  ;  and  the  shops  in  London,  Edinburgh,  Manches- 
ter, and  Glasgow,  are  extraordinarily  elegant,  and  the 
windows  are  indescribably  brilliant  with  the  productions 
of  the  most  exquisite  and  improved  art.  One  is  never 
tired  of  looking  at  them,  and  of  admiring  the  wonderful 
skill  displayed  in  the  manufacture,  the  brilliancy  of  their 
colors,  and  the  magnificence  which  a  mixed  collection, 
tastefully  arranged,  displays  by  gas  light.  Indeed,  I 
think  one  of  the  most  beautiful  sights  I  have  seen  in 
London,  has  been  on  a  ride  down  Regent  Street,  on  the 
box-seat  of  an  omnibus,  in  the  evening,  when  the  streets 
are  crowded  with  people  elegantly  dressed,  and  the  shops 
in  long  ranges,  with  their  illuminated  windows  of  immense 
length,  and  their  interior,  exhibiting  an  almost  indefinite 
perspective,  are  in  all  their  glory.  It  appears  absolutely 
like  fairy  land,  and  the  whole  of  this  most  magnificent 
street  seems  converted  into  the  hall  of  an  oriental 
palace  on  a  Court  Gala. 


LETTER    XXXVI.  121 

LETTER    XXXVI. 

Wareham,  Norfolk  Co.  1st  November,  1843. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  AM  not  willing  that  the  steamer  should  go  without  a 
letter  to  you.  My  letters  will  have  brought  down  my 
history  to  the  middle  of  last  month,  and  my  last  letter 
was  dated  at  Bransby,  Lincolnshire.  I  left  Bransby  on 
Monday,  on  an  appointment  at  Sir  John  Trollope's,  near 
Stamford,  still  in  Lincolnshire,  where  I  had  a  most 
agreeable  and  useful  visit.  I  there  met  again  my  most  re- 
spected friends,  Mr.  Pusey,  M.  P.,  and  Dr.  Buckland,  and 
we  made  an  excursion  into  the  fens  of  Lincolnshire.  Here 
is  some  of  the  richest  and  best  cultivated  land  in  Eng- 
land, and,  indeed,  I  never  saw  any  superior  to  it.  Here 
is  a  tract  of  more  than  a  hundred  thousand  acres  re- 
deemed from  the  sea  by  artificial  embankments,  and  the 
surface  water  of  a  large  portion  of  this  enclosure  —  for 
some  considerable  rivers  run  into  it  —  is  emptied  by  two 
large  steam  engines,  one  of  sixty  and  one  of  eighty  horse 
power. 

Here,  likewise,  I  saw  the  cultivation  and  preparation  of 
several  valuable  plants,  which  I  had  never  seen  growing 
before ;  among  others,  woad,  a  mordant  used  by  dyers 
and  calico-printers ;  chicory,  used  for  adulteration  of 
coffee,  and  white  mustard-seed. 

We  had  a  most  interesting  tour,  having   passed  one 

night  at  Boston  !  and  at  the  same  time  visited  Lynn  !  ! 

Lynn,  here,  at  a  distance,  precisely  resembles  Lynn  at 

home ;  I  say  precisely,  for  had  I  been   set  down  three 

11 


122  EUROPEAN    l'iFE    AND    MANNERS. 

miles  from  it  at  one  position,  and  blindfolded,  I  should  have 
said,  on  being  uncovered,  if  I  had  not  known  my  situa- 
tion, "  this  is  three  miles  from  Lynn,  on  the  Salem  turn- 
pike ;"  excepting  that  in  place  of  the  salt-marshes,  here 
the  marshes  have  been  rescued  from  the  sea  and  tide,  and 
converted  into  meadows  as  fine  as  Connecticut  river 
alluvions.  Boston  very  much,  in  parts,  resembles  what 
our  Boston  was  forty  years  ago ;  and  I  saw  on  the  signs 
and  in  the  church-yard,  the  names  of  Sewall,  Parker, 
Ward,  Smith,  &;c.,  &ic.  I  should  have  been  glad  to 
have  looked  a  little  more  into  the  antiquities  of  the  two 
places,  but  my  other  objects  did  not  admit  of  delay.  At 
Boston,  however,  I  saw  the  most  magnificent  parish- 
church  which  I  have  seen  in  England,  with  a  tower  of 
extraordinary  grandeur,  three  hundred  feet  in  height, 
though  from  its  clumsy  appearance,  at  a  distance  of 
several  miles,  where  its  beautiful  architecture  cannot  be 
observed,  it  is  called  the  Boston  Stump,  and  is  a  cele- 
brated landmark  for  sailors.  I  have  found  my  own 
name  in  several  places ;  and  in  Lincoln  and  one  or  two 
other  places,  have  found  streets  by  this  name  ;  but  as  I 
have  no  taste  for  heraldry,  and  should  probably  find  that 
my  family  arms  were  nothing  more  than  a  shoemaker's 
block  or  last  (quite,  however,  as  respectable  as  any  jieur 
de  lys  or  lions  couchant,)  I  have  not  taken  the  trouble 
of  looking  after  the  bones  of  my  ancestors,  though,  I  con- 
fess, if  I  had  the  time,  I  should  take  some  little  pains  in 
the  inquiry. 

We  passed  Monday  night  and  Thursday  night  at  Sir 
John  Trollope's,  most  agreeably,  I  assure  you,  enjoying 
every  possible  luxury  and  the  society  of  a  large  party  of 
ladies  and  gentlemen. 


LETTER    XXXVr.  123 

From  tlience  I  proceeded  to  Swaff  liam,  on  my  way  to 
Holkham,  a  great  agricultural  point,  and  there  put  up 
Saturday  evening,  to  remain  until  Monday.      I  called  at 

Swaff  ham  on  a  Miss  N ,  whom  I  had  met,  as  I  told 

you,  at  Derby,  a  most  intelligent  and  agreeable  young 
lady.  I  had  taken  my  supper  at  the  hotel,  so  that  I 
might  not  be  thought  to  intrude  upon  them  in  any  way  ; 
but  when  I  rose  to  go,  after  sitting  half  an  hour,  they 
told  me  that  I  should  stay  with  them,  and  that  they  had 
already  sent  to  the  hotel  for  my  luggage,  which  was  now 
in  my  chamber.  The  parents  are  dead,  and  there  are 
three  sisters  and  two  brothers  composing  the  family,  one 
sister  being  confined  to  her  chamber  and  her  chair,  night 
and  day,  by  an  incurable  disorder,  which  she  bears  with 
eminent  fortitude  and  resignation,  making  her  sick  cham- 
ber radiant  with  cheerfulness.  Nothing  could  exceed 
the  kindness  of  these  people.  I  staid  over  Monday  to 
go  and  see  some  excellent  famimg  with  Mr.  Morse, 
and  then  dined  out  in  the  evening  with  a  large  party  of 
doctoi-s,  lawyers,  and  clergymen,  where,  after  they  had 
made  speeches  and  drank  the  health  of  the  American 
friend  present,  I  was  obliged,  after  telling  them  that  I 
lived  under  the  same  kind  of  government  at  home,  to 
give  the  health  of  the  Queen,  and  then  they  very  politely 
insisted  upon  drinking  the  health  of  my  queen  at  home, 
in  which,  after  a  good  deal  of  very  proper  blushing  and 
all  proper  acknowledgments,  I  joined  most  heartily. 

On  Tuesday,  after  urgent  invitations  to  stay,  and  a 
pressing  one  to  come  again,  I  left  them,  having  occasion, 
as  I  was  in  the  neighborhood,  to  reverse  my  steps  a  few 
miles,  and  go  and  see  the  Queen  enter  Cambridge,  a 
display  I  should  probably  never  have  it  in  my  power  to 


124  ET^ROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

witness  again,  1  had  written  to  a  friend  in  the  neighbor- 
hood that  I  might  be  there,  but  was  in  some  respects 
singularly  unfortunate.  Such  was  the  crowd,  that  the 
rooms,  for  which  I  had  an  order,  had  been  taken  up,  and 
though  he  was  willing  to  leave,  I  was  not  willing  to  displace 
the  gentlemen  who  had  possession.  I  got,  however,  by 
a  mere  chance,  very  good  lodgings.  I  was  unfortunate, 
too,  in  not  being  able  to  get  into  the  chapel  and  into  the 
senate-room,  to  see  the  ceremonies  and  hear  the  address, 
as  no  one  could  get  admission  without  a  ticket,  and  the 
professor,  to  whom  I  had  letters,  assured  me  that  it  was 
impossible  to  procure  one  ;  but  what  was  my  regret  to 
learn,  after  it  was  all  over,  that  my  friend,  whom  I  could 
not  find,  had  procured  me  tickets  for  admission  to  both, 
but  was  unable  to  find  me.  The  occasion  was  one  of 
very  great  splendor  and  interest ;  about  as  magnificent 
a  piece  of  idolatry  as  one  could  witness.  However,  I 
have  already  described  it  in  another  letter.  I  have 
only  room  to  thank  Heaven,  that  I  was  not  crowded 
to  death  in  the  general  rush,  where  one  man  actually 
jumped  upon  my  back  in  an  agony  of  terror,  and  would 
have  thrown  me  down  had  I  not  been  wedged  in  too 
closely  to  fall. 

On  Friday  I  left  Cambridge  and  came  here  by  invi- 
tation received  some  time  since,  and  am  staying  with 
one  of  the  best  farmers  in  England,  and  in  a  most  kind 
and  hospitable  family.  This  farmer  was  the  principal 
tenant  of  Lord  Leicester,  formerly  Mr.  Coke,  the  most 
distinguished  farmer  in  Great  Britain  ;  and  he  was  the  in- 
ventor of  what  is  termed  "inoculating"  land,  a  process  by 
which  setting  or  planting  small  pieces  of  grass  at  some 
little  distance  from  each  other,  over  a  piece  of  land,  the 
whole  is  soon  converted  into  a  close  sward. 


LETTER    XXXVII.  125 

I  have  had  three  days  of  incessant  agricukurul  talk 
and  observation,  and  leave  here  to-morrow.  I  then  go 
to  visit  Mr.  Jonas  Webb,  a  large  farmer  and  shepherd 
in  Cambridgeshire,  and  hope  on  Monday  to  reach  Lon- 
don for  winter  quarters.     Adieu. 


LETTER    XXXVn. 

Wareham,  1st  November,  1843. 
My  Dear  A : 

You  will,  I  suppose,  be  surprised,  after  my  long  de- 
spatches by  the  last  steamer,  to  hear  from  me  again, 
but  I  shall  throw  myself  upon  your  indulgence. 

In  my  letter  of  this  afternoon  to ,  I  mentioned 

that  I  was  at  Cambridge,  to  witness  the  visit  of  the 
Queen  to  that  ancient  and  distinguished  place.  They 
have  not  had  the  visit  of  Majesty  for  more  than  a  cen- 
tury, and  as  soon  as  the  intention  was  announced,  the 
whole  town  and  vicinity  were  devoted  to  making  prepara- 
tions. I  reached  the  town  on  Tuesday  evening,  and 
alio-hted  from  the  coach  amidst  an  immense  crowd, 
stmggling  for  admission  into  the  inn.  In  perfect  despair, 
I  got  a  porter  to  take  my  luggage  into  an  office  near  by, 
and  then  went,  I  knew  not  whither,  in  search  of  lodg- 
ings. I  was  fortunate  enough  to  find  such  as  were  com- 
fortable for  the  occasion.  On  Wednesday  morning  the 
whole  town  was  routed  quite  early  by  the  chiming  and 
ringing  of  bells  ;  the  streets  were  soon  full  of  well-dressed 
people  ;  the  houses  festooned  with  evergreens,  flowisrs, 
and  flags  ;  triumphal  arches  erected  at  the  entrance  of 
11* 


126  EUROPEAN    LIFE    ANT>    MANNERS. 

the  city  ;  curious  devices  and  pictures  presented  at  vari- 
ous places  ;  stages  and  windows  filled  with  a  well-dressed 
population,  hungry  with  expectation,  and  waiting  with 
intense  enthusiasm  the  arrival  of  the  sovereign  of  the 
nation. 

She  came  at  last  in  a  carnage  with  the  Prince,  attended 
by  several  of  the  grandees  of  the  empire,  and  with  great 
eclat.  After  comfortably  resting  at  her  lodgings,  it  was 
announced  that  she  was  to  proceed  in  state  to  the  chapel. 
She  had  arrived  in  her  travelling-carriage  ;  now  she  had 
changed  her  dress  and  appeared  in  her  state-carriages, 
which  are  as  splendid  as  gold  and  varnish  can  make  them. 
In  the  evening  the  town  was  most  magnificently  illumi- 
nated with  various  devices,  and  the  population  crowded 
the  streets  to  excess.  The  next  morning  she  proceeded  in 
state  to  the  Senate-House,  where  the  degree  of  LL.  D. 
was  conferred  upon  Prince  Albert.  I  could  not  get  in, 
but  at  a  distance  across  the  street  I  was  able,  being 
higher  than  the  rest,  to  see  her  upon  her  throne.  After 
this  I  got  admission  into  St.  John's  College  yard,  and 
there  formed  part  of  a  line  where  she  passed  on  foot 
within  a  yard's  length  of  me.  I  had,  therefore,  repeated 
and  full  views  of  this  great  object  of  interest.  Carpets 
of  crimson-cloth  were  laid  through  all  the  passages  and 
yards  where  the  foot  of  majesty  was  to  tread ;  and  in 
one  spot,  where,  by  some  mischance,  the  carpeting  was 
deficient,  the  students  pulled  off  their  gowns  and  spread 
them  for  her  to  step  on.  She  is  a  very  small  person, 
not  very  handsome,  but  pleasing,  with  a  bright  blue  eye, 
and  dressed  quite  modestly.  Indeed,  if  you  had  met  her 
in  the  street,  you  would  merely  have  said,  there  is  a 
pretty  genteel  little  woman.  I  cannot  quite  enter  into 
the  feelings  of  persons  who  have  been   brought  up  in   a 


LETTER    XXXVir.  127 

State  of  society  so  entirely  different  from  what  exists 
among  us  ;  but  it  is  a  remarkable  and  distinguished  bless- 
ing to  the  nation,  that  her  domestic  character  is  exemplary 
and  beautiful,  and  she  has  a  husband  worthy  of  her,  and 
so  far  as  private  character  goes,  is  deserving  of  all  re- 
spect. This  is  remarkable  ;  for  some  of  their  monarchs 
have  been  a  disgrace  to  human  nature,  and  their  cele- 
brated Queen  Elizabeth  was  an  odious  character. 

In 's  letter  I  have  told  you  why  I  am  here.  To- 
day they  were  disposed  I  should  see  a  little  coursing.  I 
went  out  an  hour  with  the  hounds  to  see  them  rout  and 
kill  five  hares  —  an  exciting,  but  a  cruel  sport. 

I  forgot  to  say  that  one  of  the  most  striking  features 
in  the  processions  and  displays  at  Cambridge,  were  the 
dresses  of  the  students  and  scholars.  The  members  of 
the  University  all  wear  gowns  and  flat  caps,  and  such  as 
to  designate  their  different  academic  degrees.  The  doc- 
tors all  wear  scarlet  robes  ;  the  noble  commoners  of  Trin- 
ity College,  appear  with  gowns  and  caps  triumied  with 
gold  lace  and  gold  tassels ;  the  noble  commoners  of  St. 
John's  College,  with  gowns  and  caps  trimmed  with  silver 
lace  and  tassels.  The  dresses  were  extremely  splendid 
and  beautiful,  and  as  a  mere  spectator,  I  was  highly 
entertained  with  it. 

In  the  evening  there  were  tremendous  crowds  in  the 
street,  and  late  in  the  evening  fire-works  and  squibs  in 
abundance.  I  was  disposed  to  see  the  whole  ;  and  it  was 
rather  an  amusing  sight,  to  say  nothing  else  of  it,  to  see 
hundreds  of  students  with  gowns  and  caps  and  bands  on, 
running  about  with  squibs  and  crackers  and  scaring  the 
girls  of  the  town  (of  whose  character  there  could  be  no 
doubt,)  and  who  seemed  to  form  no  small  portion  of  the 
crowd.      Adieu. 


I'^S  EUROPEAN    LIFE     AND    MANNERS. 

LETTER    XXXVIII. 

London,  16th  November,  1843. 
My  Deak  Sir  : 

I  THANK  you  for  your  letter  by  the  Hibernia.  I  wish 
during  winter,  or  until  I  leave  London  again,  you  would 
occasionally  send  me  some  Boston  newspapers  by  mail. 
Otherwise  I  can  only  see  them  by  going  two  miles  from 
my  lodgings,  to  the  reading-room  of  the  American  Cof- 
fee House,  and  can  be  admitted  there  only  by  courtesy. 
At  Edinburgh  they  had  an  excellent  arrangement,  which 
for  strangers,  I  think  might  be  adopted  with  advantage 
in  other  places.  Their  reading-room  was  large,  splen- 
did, and  exceedingly  well  furnished  with  papers  and  pe- 
riodicals, and  any  person  not  a  subscriber  might  go  in  at 
any  time  by  dropping  a  penny  into  a  box  on  the  table 
at  entrance,  or  paying  it  to  the  servant.  Here  a  friend 
can't  enter  your  name  except  for  a  month ;  but  the 
above  arrangement  saves  troubling  any  one,  and  relieves 
the  feeling  that  you  go  by  sufferance  ;  and  undoubtedly 
a  great  deal  is  collected  in  this  way.  Two  cents  might 
be  safely  charged  in  Boston. 

I  have  now  resumed  my  quarters  in  London.  The 
weather,  since  I  returned,  has  been  extremely  capricious, 
and  a  good  deal  of  rain  has  fallen  ;  the  weather  is  very 
chilly  and  uncomfortable,  and  the  days  are  cut  off  at 
each  end.  The  fog  and  smoke  much  of  the  time  are 
quite  dense,  and  on  Tuesday  forenoon  last,  it  was  so 
dark  and  thick  that  candles  were  lighted  in  all  the 
houses  and  shops,  and  I  actually  missed  my  way  and  lost 


LKTTER    XXXVIII.  129 

myself  twice  in  going  to  my  old  lodgings  through  streets, 
with  which  I  am  as  familiar  almost  as  with  Washington 
Street,  Boston.  I  do  not  complain,  however,  of  the  wea- 
ther—  my  health  is  quite  good,  and  it  is  not  worth 
while  to  make  oneself  unhappy  in  a  matter  over  which 
we  have  no  control. 

I  had  hoped  that  I  was  quietly  fixed  in  London  for 
the  winter,  but  I  have  made  an  arrangement  with  Mr. 
Pusey,  member  of  Parliament,  Dr.  Buckland,  and 
several  agricultural  gentlemen,  to  pass  a  week,  next 
week,  at  Lord  Atherton's,  one  hundred  miles  from  Lon- 
don by  rail.  Mr.  Pusey  says  it  is  of  the  highest  impor- 
tance to  me  to  see  the  winter  farming  in  England,  and 
Lord  Hatherton  has  made  some  of  the  greatest  im- 
provements in  the  country.  He  farms  himself  two  thou- 
sand acres.  When  in  his  neighborhood,  I  propose  to  go 
and  see  Earl  Ducie's  pattern  farm,  and  some  agricultu- 
ral establishments  near  Birmingham.  This  takes  up 
time  which  I  wanted  for  the  completion  of  my  first  re- 
port, and  will  delay  me  accordingly  ;  but  I  don't  know 
how  to  avoid  it. 

Just  now  we  have  a  good  deal  of  American  politics 
in  the  English  papers.  General  Duff  Green  has  been 
writing  a  long  letter  about  repudiation,  in  which  he 
recommends  to  the  English  at  once  to  repeal  their  pro- 
hibitory duties  on  American  corn.  Congress,  under  the 
change  of  administration,  which  he  thinks  certain  to 
take  place,  will  alter  their  tariff  so  as  to  admit  British 
manufactures  ;  and  he  gravely  warns  them  to  make  hay 
while  the  sun  shines,  as  otherwise  there  are  occasions  of 
difference  and  difficulty  which  may,  lead  to  a  war,  if  not 
now  settled.     The  style   of  his  letter  is   extremely  ob- 


130  ETTROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

jectionable.  It  grew  out  of  a  letter  by  the  Rev.  Syd- 
ney Smith,  which,  no  doubt,  you  have  seen,  inveighing 
against  the  Americans,  and  especially  against  Pennsyl- 
vania, in  no  measured  terms,  and  with  the  most  pungent 
satire.  So  far  as  Pennsylvania  is  concerned,  I  think  no 
severity  would  be  misplaced.  But  the  writer,  like  other 
men  of  extraordinary  wit,  deals  out  his  jokes  with  little 
regard  to  candor  and  justice. 

Mr.  A likewise,  over  signature  of  "  American  in 

London,"  has  favored  the  public  with  one  or  two  letters. 
I  have  read  one,  which  I  thought  quite  well  written  for 
a  lawyer,  though  I  told  him  that  I  regretted  he  should 
use  any  expression  which  would  aggravate  the  already 
too  heated,  excited,  and  embittered  feelings  of  the  losing 
parties,  by  implying  that  the  purchasers  in  American 
funds,  knew  the  risk  they  were  taking,  and  were  induced 
to  lake  the  risk  by  the  prospect  of  a  very  exorbitant 
return,  making  it  merely  a  gambling  speculation.  This,  I 
think,  should  not  be  said  in  the  way  of  taunt  or  reflection, 
first,  because  there  was  really  no  wrong  in  their  purchas- 
ing stock  with  a  prospect  of  a  large  return,  unless  that 
return  was  to  be  brought  about  by  dishonest  means  ;  and 
next,  this  cannot  apply  to  many  of  the  purchasers,  who 
were  retired  persons,  not  at  all  connected  with  business, 
and  seeking  only  a  safe  investment  for  their  money,  many 
of  whom,  as  I  know,  were  induced  to  make  their  invest- 
ment from  their  friendliness  towards,  and  confidence  in, 
a  republican  form  of  government.  I  shall  send  you 
some  papers,  but  I  fear  I  cannot  obtain  these,  as  it  is  here 
almost  hopeless  to  expect  to  get  a  paper  two  days  after 
its  publication,  and  a  paper  a  week  old  is  never  taken 
by  mail. 


LETTER    XXXIX.  131 

I  sliall  be  quite  desirous  of  hearing  how  your  election 
turns  out  ;  but  you  cannot  conceive  how  small  the  elec- 
tioneering personalities  in  the  American  papers  appear 
to  a  person  on  this  side  of  the  water,  after  getting  out  of 
the  whirl  for  a  little  time,  qnd  looking  from  a  far  higher 
position  at  the  great  interests  of  society  now  at  stake 
upon  the  political  chess-board. 


LETTER    XXXIX. 

London,  16tli  November,  1843. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  CAN  hardly  express  the  pleasure  with  which  I  re- 
ceived my  packet  of  letters  yesterday  by  the  Hibernia. 
It  seems  not  a  long  time  to  wait  for  letters  from  the 
first  to  the  fourteenth  of  the  month,  but  if  you  were 
in   a  foreign  land  you  would  count  even  the  hours. 

Your  letters  are  continually  bringing  me  intelligence 
of  the  decease  of  friends ;  Dr.  Greenwood,  Dr.  Ware, 
Mr.  Prince,  and  I  hear  likewise,  Mr.  Alden  Bradford, 
and  probably  that  most  excellent  man,  Judge  Prescott. 
I  really  seem  to  have  outlived  a  world.  Mr.  Prince  and 
Mr.  Bradford  were  men  of  high  integrity  and  excellence. 
For  Dr.  Greenwood,  I  had  very  great  regard.  Dr. 
Henry  Ware,  jr.,  for  perfect  worth  of  character  has  not 
left  his  superior  behind  him.  In  disinterestedness,  and 
generosity,  and  nobleness  of  soul,  he  was  a  rare  man. 
I  am  delighted  to  hear  that  my  good  old  friend,  and  as 
good  a  man  as  lives,  Dr.  Pierce,  received  my  remem- 
brance kindly.     The   best  statue   of   Sir  Walter  Scott 


132         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

known,  and    of  which  some  one  said,  it  is  not  a  statue, 
but  the  petrifaction   of  a  man,  is  almost  a  fac  simile  of 

Dr.  Pierce.     So  I  beheve  Mrs.  L thought  when 

I  earned  her  to  see  it.     I  hope  Sir  Waher's  autograph 
was  received  and  passed  to  its  address. 

I  have  succeeded  in  getting  such  lodgings  as  are  com- 
fortable, with  the  exception  of  a  dirty  servant  girl,  who 
tends  upon  me,  a  maid  of  all  work.*     The  situation  is 

*  The  duties  of  one  of  these  poor  creatures  in  some  of  the  lodging 
houses  in  London,  are  thus  detailed  in  the  written  directions  given  to  one  by 
a  house-keeper,  and  produced  on  a  trial  at  a  police  court.  Of  its  authen- 
ticity there  can  be  no  doubt. 

General  Ritles — Daily  Duty.  To  be  up  at  six  o'clock ;  light  kitchen 
fire  ;  kitchen  to  be  swept ;  light  drawing-room  fire,  grate  to  be  thoroughly 
cleaned,  fire-irons  rubbed  ;  drugget  and  rug  to  be  taken  up  and  shaken  ;  car- 
pet swept  and  every  thing  removed  and  thoroughly  dusted  ;  hot  water  taken 
up  to  the  bed  rooms ;  breakfast  to  be  laid  ;  knives  and  boots  to  be  cleaned  ; 
brealdast  at  eight  o'clock,  during  which  time  passages,  &c.,  to  be  cleaned 
and  bell-handle  rubbed,  breakfast  things  to  be  washed  up  ;  kitchen  fire  made 
up  ;  step  of  the  door  hearth-stoned  ;  beds  to  be  made,  and  bed  rooms  to  be 
swept  and  dusted  ;  slops  to  be  emptied  and  wash-hand  stands,  &c.  to  be 
thoroughly  wiped  ;  stairs  swept  down  and  staircase  dusted ;  lamp  to  be 
trimmed  and  cleaned,  candlesticks  cleaned  ;  dinner  to  be  prepared,  dinner  to 
be  on  table  by  one  o'clock  ;  during  dinner  to  begin  cleaning  kitchen  ;  every 
thing  to  be  washed  up  and  put  it  its  place  ;  yourself  to  be  cleaned  to  take 
out  baby ;  tea  to  be  ready  by  five  o'clock,  after  tea,  slops  to  be  emptied,  and 
beds  turned  down  ;  baby  to  be  washed  and  put  to  bed ;  supper  at  nine 
o'clock  ;  eveiy  thing  to  be  washed  up  and  put  away  before  going  to  bed. 

Ditty  on  Special  Days  in  each  Week.  —  Monday  —  Two  bedrooms 
to  be  swept  and  scoured,  walls  dusted,  and  every  thing  to  be  well  dusted  ; 
grates  and  fire-irons  to  be  cleaned.  Tuesday  —  Water-closet  to  be  well 
washed  out ;  all  the  washing  to  be  done.  Wednesday  —  Clean  one  bed- 
room ;  passage  and  stairs  cleaned,  .scoured,  and  dusted.  Thursday  —  Draw- 
ing room  to  be  well  swept,  with  tea  leaves  ;  walls  dusted  ;  gi-ate  and  fire- 
irons  well  cleaned  ;  marble  and  table  covers  and  outside  of  windows  to  be 
well  wa.shed  with  soap  and  water,  and  every  thing  removed  and  well  dusted  ; 
ironing  to  be  done  ;  water-closet  cleaned  out.  Friday  —  Tins,  coppers,  and 
all  kitchen  utensils  to  be  cleaned  ;  drawing-room  stairs  to  be  cleaned.  Sat- 
urday —  Kitchen  and  back  kitchen  to  be  thoroughly  cleaned  ;  passages  and 
water-closets  to  be  scoured,  &c.  &c. 


LETTER    XXXIX,  13.} 

very  central,  respectable  and  convenient  ;  and   besides 
that,  light,  as  it  opens  upon  a  public  square. 

It  may  amuse  you  to  see  my  week's  bill,  which  has 
just  come  in.  You  will  recollect  that  the  currency  is 
sterling,  and  £1  is  about  equal  to  five  dollars,  and  one 
shilling  to  twenty-five  cents. 

Nov.  9th,  1843.  5.     d. 

Apartments*  to  16lh,  18     0 

Boots,  l5.     Wax  candles,  2s.  3     0 

Coals,  3s.     Wood,  3d.  3 

Paid  washing  bill,  3  10 

Mending  clothes,  3 

Tea,  2s.  3d.     Sugar,  10^.  3     1 

Butter,  1  10 

Bread,  Is.     Muffins,  9rf.  1     9 
Milk  and  cream,  6s.  News,  6d.  1     0 

Blotting  paper  5d.  5 

£l  16  5 
My  dinner  is  ordinarily  taken  at  a  chop-house  or  res- 
taurant from  one  shilling  six  pence  to  two  shillings,  with- 
out wine.  The  charges  at  one  of  the  principal  eating 
houses  in  Piccadilly ,where  the  cooking  is  good,  and  where, 
I  am  told,  they  sometimes  dine  a  thousand  persons  a  day, 
are  as  follows  :  A  plate  of  roast  beef,  8^. ;  potatoes,  1^/. ; 
celery,  2d.;  turnipor  cabbage,  2d.;  bread,  Id.;  pud- 
ding or  apple  pie,  4d. ;  pint  of  ale,  4td.  ;  servant,  1^.  In 
houses  where  you  cut  from  the  joint,  the  dinner,  without 
wine,  usually  amounts  to  half  a  crown,  or  two  shillings 
six  pence  ;  and  the  servant's  fee  is  3c?.  or  a  penny  for 
each  shilling,  and  a  penny  usually  for  the  boy  who  brings 
the  beer. 

*  The  same  apartments  in  the  season  would  rent  for  twenty-five  or  thirty 
shillings. 

12 


134         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

I  have  tried  having  my  dinner  in  my  room,  but  it  is 
unsocial  and  attended  with  many  inconveniences  ;  and 
it  is  no  saving  of  expense.  It  is  positively  melancholy 
to  be  eating  my  dinner  alone,  and  often,  when  it  is  half 
finished,  I  drop  my  knife  and  fork  in  silent  amazement, 
and  try  if  I  cannot  think  of  something  besides  home, 
and  wish  myself  anywhere  but  in  this  Robinson  Crusoe 
cabin. 

Nameless  unavoidable  incidentals  in  London  make 
constant  and  heavy  drains  upon  one's  purse.  Travel- 
ling expenses  are  enormous.  At  hotels  the  servants'  fees, 
if  you  go  into  the  commercial  room,  are  sixpence  or  nme- 
pence  per  night  to  chambermaid,  six  pence  or  three 
pence  per  meal  to  the  waiter,  and  three  pence  per  day 
to  boots,  and  three  pence  more  to  him  or  the  porter,  who 
puts  on  or  takes  off  your  baggage.  If  you  have  a  por- 
ter to  yourself,  or  travel  post  or  with  a  servant,  the  fees 
are  always  more  than  doubled.  To  a  coachman,  whether 
he  drives  you  ten  or  tWrty  miles,  you  give  one  shilling  ; 
to  the  guard,  if  there  is  one,  which  is  not  always  the 
case,  excepting  on  mail  coaches,  the  same ;  if  you  ride 
inside  the  coach  the  fee  is  doubled.  There  is  no  law 
for  this,  but  custom  determines  it,  and  the  vexation  of 
refusing,  and  the  ill  humor  or  contest  you  must  get  into 
if  you  refuse,  are  a  much  greater  evil  than  paying  the 
money.  Commercial  men  pay  the^  coachmen  one  far- 
thing a  mile,  making  the  fraction  always  in  his  favor  ; 
and  the  guard,  if  there  is  one,  the  same. 


LF.TTFR    XL.  135 


LETTER  XL. 

London,  ICth  November,  1843. 
My  Dear  A : 

I  AM  indebted  to  you  for  an  agreeable  letter  by  the 
Hibernia,  the  more  welcome  as  it  was  from  D &l  Co. 

Your  husband  seems  to  imply  a  doubt  about  the  Dun- 
dee strawberries,  ten  weighing  a  pound.  He  need  have 
none.  I  saw  them  ;  and  one  of  them  measured  the 
length  of  my  little  finger,  abating  about  half  the  nail. 
The  name  by  which  they  are  known  is  the  Pine  Alpine. 
I  could  not  learn  any  thing  peculiar  in  their  cultivation, 
but  I  will  inquire  again.  Pine  apples  are  raised  here  in 
great  perfection.  I  never  eat  them  so  good.  I  found 
them  daily  at  table  in  the  houses  of  the  nobility.  In 
the  market-shops,  a  good  one  brings  from  twenty  to 
thirty  shillings,  or  from  five  to  seven  dollars  and  a  half. 
Peaches,  nectarines,  and  apricots  were  also  plentiful  at 
all  such  tables,  and  grapes  likewise,  though  these  were 
not  finer  than  at  Elfin  glen,  indeed,  how  could  they  be  ? 
Pears,  likewise,  are  now  abundant  in  the  market,  and 
very  fine,  at  about  two  cents  apiece,  but  they  seem  to 
have  wanted  sun.  Voltaire  says,  "  The  only  ripe  fruit 
in  England  is  a  baked-apple."  As  to  the  names,  I 
have  inquired  until  I  despair  of  learning  any  thing  more 
than  that  "they  are  a  very  good  pear,  try  them,  sir."  I 
wish  very  much  your  husband  could  see  Chatsworth  and 
its  grounds,  which  I  have  already  described  to  you. 
There  is  no  more  happiness   there  than  in  his  own  litllo 


136  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

domain,  but  the  taste  displayed,  and  the  multiplied  forms 
of  beauty  presented,  would,  I  think,  oblige  him  to  wipe 
his  spectacles  often. 

My  last  was  dated  at  Wareham,  from  the  farm-house 
of  one  of  the  principal  tenants  of  the  Earl  of  Leicester, 
Mr.  Bloomfield,  a  most  comfortable  establishment  indeed. 
He  is  about  seventy-five  years  old,  a  widower,  and  his 
daughter,  about  twenty-two,  keeps  house  for  him.  His 
son  and  son's  wife  live  in  the  family,  and  they  did  every 
thing  they  could  for  my  comfort.  This  was  in  Norfolk. 
If  you  look  at  the  map,  you  will  find  Holkham  on  the 
seashore  at  the  north-east  of  England  —  and  this  farm 
reminded  me  of  the  Lynn  establishment,  as  it  was 
entirely  open  to  the  German  Ocean.  From  Wareham 
I  returned  to  Cambridge,  to  visit  a  large  farmer,  Mr. 
Jonas  Webb,  a  great  raiser  of  South  Down  sheep,  who 
sold  one  sheep  the  week  before  for  sixty-five  guineas, 
and  had  some  for  which  he  had  refused  two  hundred 
guineas.  I  wrote  to  you  that  when  I  was  at  Cambridge 
to  see  the  entree  of  the  Queen,  I  was  unfortunate  enough 
to  miss  my  tickets  of  admission  to  the  Chapel  and  the 
Senate  Chamber,  where  I  should  have  seen  her  on  the 
throne,  and  heard  her  speech.  I  learnt  now  that  I  was 
even  still  more  unfortunate,  for  I  found  in  the  office  at 
Cambridge  a  letter  from  the  Earl  of  Hardwicke,  express- 
ing his  hope  that  I  had  received  the  invitation,  which  he 
had  sent  me,  for  the  ball  given  to  the  Queen  at  Wimpole, 
his  palace,  where  she  passed  two  nights.  Wimpole  is 
eight  miles  from  Cambridge,  and  I  unluckily  missed  it, 
though  my  name  was  announced  among  the  invitees. 
This  only  made  matters  worse.  The  company  at  the 
ball  was  announced  to  be  of  the  "  most  select  character, 


•  LKTTRR   xr,r.  137 

and  the  rules  of  dress  extremely  strict."  I  confess  I 
should  like  to  have  seen  the  Queen,  and  most  certainly  I 
am  greatly  indebted  to  Lord  Hardwicke's  politeness.  He 
is  one  of  the  Lords  in  waiting  on  Her  Majesty,  and  a 
nobleman  of  the  highest  distinction.  The  royal  state 
beds,  which  I  saw  at  Burleigh  House,  where  I  was  the 
other  day,  were  said  to  have  cost  £4,000  sterling  —  that 
is,  about  ^'20,000.  The  mattress  and  pillow-cases  of  one 
of  the  state  beds  which  I  saw  at  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch's, 
were  covered  with  white  satin,  and  the  hangings  were 
blue  satin,  figured  and  magnificently  worked,  rising  in  a 
high  tower  or  canopy,  with  the  British  arms  and  crown 
worked  in  the  centre.  I  suppose  none  of  these  would 
keep  the  head  or  the  heart  from  aching,  if  either  the 
stomach  or  the  conscience  were  disordered.  The  Queen 
is  extremely  neat  and  pleasing  in  her  appearance.  When 
I  saw  her  receiving  the  homage  of  the  tens  of  thousands 
that  blocked  up  the  street  through  which  her- carriage 
passed  and  made  the  air  echo  with  their  thundering 
shouts,  I  could  not  help  thinking  of  the  picture  of  the 
head  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  taken  after  her  death, 
which  I  saw  hanging  up  at  Abbotsford,  and  of  the  axe 
with  which  Anne  Boleyn  was  executed,  which  1  saw  in 
the  Tower  of  London.  Alas  !  what  is  human  applause 
worth ! 


LETTER    XLL 

London,  17th  November,  1843. 
My  Dear  A : 

Goodwood,  from  which   I  have  recently  returned,  is 
sixty-four  miles  south-east  from  London,  antl  in  the  book 
12* 


138  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS.  • 

which  I  hav^e  sent,  you  will  have  a  description  and  history 
of  it  more  exact  and  full  than  I  can  give.  The  Duke 
of  Richmond,  one  of  the  highest  peers  in  the  kingdom, 
who,  from  the  time  of  my  arrival,  has  treated  me  in  the 
most  courteous  manner,  kindly  invited  me,  some  time 
since,  to  make  him  a  second  visit  and  pass  Christmas 
holidays  :  but  I  could  not.  He  has  several  times  re- 
peated his  invitations,  and  sent  to  me  particularly  to 
come  down  during  the  Easter  vacation.  I  determined, 
therefore,  to  accept  this  invitation,  and  left  by  coach  a 
week  ago  last  Thursday.  I  reached  Lavant,  a  stopping- 
place  about  three  miles  from  Goodwood,  at  five,  and 
found  the  Duke's  coach  waiting  my  arrival.  On  reach- 
ing Goodwood,  the  Duke  and  Duchess  met  me  in  the 
park  and  gave  me  a  hearty  welcome.  They  had  just 
returned  from  a  long  ride  on  horseback.  It  is  enough 
here,  however,  to  say  ride,  which  always  means  on 
horseback  :  when  in  a  carriage,  it  is  always  called  a  drive. 

I  shall  not  undertake  to  detail  to  you  all  the  particu- 
lars of  this  delightful  visit,  for,  in  truth,  in  comfort  and 
splendor,  the  living  at  all  these  houses  is  upon  a  common 
type,  but  there  may  be  some  circumstances,  perhaps  of 
trifling  import,  which  may  gratify  your  nice  eye,  not  to 
say  your  ever-awake  curiosity  in  all  matters  of  taste  and 
refinement.  ....... 

The  service  at  dinner  was  always  silver  or  gold 
throughout,  plates  and  dishes,  excepting  for  the  jellies 
and  puddings,  and  those  the  most  beautiful  china.  At 
breakfast,  every  article,  cups  and  saucers,  plates,  Sic, 
Sic,  were  all  of  the  most  splendid  china,  and  every  one 
differed  in  its  pattern  from  another,  that  is,  one  cup  and 
saucer  was  different  from  another  cup  and  saucer  ;  one 


LETTER    XLI.  139 

plate  differed  from  another.  I  sliould  not  have  observed 
this  had  not  the  lady  who  sat  next  mo,  asked  me,  one 
morning,  if  I  did  not  admire  the  painting  on  some  of  the 
cups.  There  was  an  immense  amovmt,  not  only  of  por- 
celain, but  of  Sevre's  china  ;  and  to  give  you  some  idea 
of  the  value  of  the  latter,  which  is  of  the  finest  descrip- 
tion, the  price  of  a  single  cup  and  saucer,  now  on  sale 
in  Oxford  street,  is  thirty-five  dollars. 

On  Friday,  being  Good  Friday,  I  attended  with  the 
family  at  the  parish  church,  where  the  Duke's  pew  is  a 
little  building  about  six  feet  long  and  four  feet  wide, 
completely  enclosed,  excepting  towards  the  pulpit,  with 
roof  and  glass  windows,  and  standing  near  the  centre  of 
the  church,  with  the  roof  and  sides  very  much  orna- 
mented. 

After  church  we  returned,  and  at  half-past  one  is 
always  lunch  ;  the  table  remains  until  three  o'clock,  and 
for  those  who  choose  to  take  it,  the  lunch  may  be  con- 
sidered a  regular  dinner,  consisting  of  hot  meats,  games, 
pies,  bread,  cheese,  butter,  wines,  and  porter,  only  taken 
without  so  much  formality  as  dinner. 

After  dinner  the  Duke  and  myself  rode  over  his  farms, 
visited  his  dog-kennel,  and  on  our  return  saw  the  race- 
horses cleaned  and  fed.  There  were  more  than  forty  race- 
horses, of  the  finest  character,  in  his  stables,  and  sixty 
grooms  and  hostlers.     So  passed  off  the  first  day. 

The  second  day  I  went  with  him  to  visit  the  Union, 
or  Work  House,  and  see  some  of  his  farms  and  allot- 
ments, and  I  was  delighted  to  see  the  Duke  every- 
where recognized  by  his  laborers  and  servants,  with  the 
most  grateful  respect  and  attention,  the  sincerity  of  which 
could  not  be  doubted. 


140  EUROPEAN  LIEE  AND  MANNERS. 

Tn  tlie  afternoon  we  look  a  long  ride,  exploring  the 
country,  which  is  very  interesting  on  many  accounts. 
On  Sunday,  Lord  Arthur  Lennox  went  with  me  in  a 
carriage  to  Chichester,  to  attend  the  Cathedral  service, 
about  three  miles,  and  returned  to  lunch.  In  the  after- 
noon the  Duke  showed  me  every  room  in  his  house,  and 
described  many  of  the  pictures  and  statues.  The  boudoir 
of  the  Duchess,  her  little  private  sitting-room,  to  which 
I  was  afterwards  admitted,  was  most  splendid  and  full  of 
every  thing  to  delight  you  in  the  way  of  articles  of  curi- 
osity and  bijouterie. 

On  Monday  I  attended,  with  the  Duke,  the  meeting 
of  the  Guardians  of  the  Work  House,  who  are,  most  of 
them,  farmers,  and  in  the  afternoon  he  put  me  under  the 
care  of  one  of  the  most  intelligent  of  them,  to  show  me 
his  stock  and  over  several  of  his  farms,  and  give  me  all 
the  information  he  could.  The  evening  passed  off  de- 
lightfully. The  ladies  were  much  engaged  in  working 
embroidery,  or  rather  tapestry  work  for  ottomans,  of  ele- 
gant samples,  of  which  the  house  is  full. 

Tuesday  the  Duchess  was  kind  enough  to  say  she 
must  take  me  under  her  care,  so  that  she  might  show  me 
her  conservatory,  her  orangery,  her  pheasantry,  contain- 
ing, among  other  things,  a  most  splendid  peacock,  per- 
fectly white,  and  several  gold  and  silver  pheasants,  and 
then  her  dairy-room.  After  this  I  went  on  an  exploring 
expedition  among  the  grounds,  and  at  two  o'clock  the 
several  gentlemen  and  Lady  Caroline  Lennox  started  for 
a  ride  ;  and  traversing  hill  and  dale,  exploring  farms  and 
lands,  and  seeing  all  that  was  interesting  in  our  tour,  we 
returned  after  a  ride,  in  all,  of  more  than  twenty  miles,  to 
dress  for  dinner. 


LETTER    XLI.  141 

Wednesday,  the  Duke  took  nie  to  Chichester,  about 
three  miles,  to  see  the  Corn  INIarket,  and  introduce  me  to 
several  farmers,  and  was  then  to  take  me  to  Petworth, 
where  he  was  to  attend  the  Assizes,  but  I  begged  off,  and 
explored  the  city  of  Chichester,  which  is  an  old  walled 
city,  and  full  of  objects  of  curiosity,  and  then  walked 
to  Goodwood.  I  was  to  have  left  to-day,  but  he  kindly 
invited  me  to  stay  until  Saturday,  as  he  had  made  arrange- 
ments with  several  farmers  to  see  me.  He  was  obliged 
to  attend  his  court  but  the  Duchess  expressed  her  wish 
that  I  would  remain  ;  and  I  was  happy  to  stay. 

Thursday,  Mr.  Rusbridger,  the  Duke's  steward,  at  ten 
o'clock  took  me  in  his  gig  to  Manhood,  about  twelve 
miles  from  Goodwood,  on  the  seashore  opposite  the  Isle 
of  Wight,  to  show  me  a  highly  cultivated  and  beautiful 
district  of  country  known  by  that  name.  I  found,  when 
I  got  there,  two  most  respectable  gentlemen  farmers, 
waiting  for  me,  and  a  servant  with  a  horse  sent  by  the 
Duke,  that  we  might  ride  over  several  of  the  farms 
where  the  carriage  could  not  go.  So  we  all  four  mount- 
ed, taking  a  servant  to  open  gates,  and  spent  several 
hours  in  exploring  the  country  and  getting  all  the  infor- 
mation I  could.  We  lunched  at  Mr.  Gorham's,  an  excel- 
lent and  elegant  farm-house,  where  Mrs.  Gorham  and  one 
of  the  gentlemen  told  me  they  were  much  obliged  to  me 
for  asking  for  a  cup  of  tea  instead  of  wine,  as  they  had 
never  tried  it  before  and  considered  it  a  great  discovery, 
of  which  they  should  avail  themselves  hereafter.  I 
returned  to  Goodwood  in  season  for  dinner,  having  had  a 
most  interesting  day. 

Friday,  I  spent  the  forenoon  until  twelve  reading  and 
writing,  and  then  went  with   Mr.  Rusbridger  to  Bognor, 


142  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

about  twelve  miles,  a  famous  watering  place  by  the  sea- 
side, to  see  several  other  of  the  Duke's  farms.  No 
place  can  be  neater  than  this.  It  is  situated  much  as 
Swampscott,  in  Lynn,  but  the  difference  in  the  appear- 
ance of  the  two  places,  is  all  the  difference  between  a 
gentleman's  parlor  and  a  common  pigsty.  I  returned 
to  dine,  and  took  leave  of  the  ladies  in  the  evening, 
thinking,  as  I  was  to  leave  by  half-past  nine,  I  might 
not  see  them  again  ;  but  they  were  kind  enough  to  be 
down  at  breakfast,  and  my  eyes  were  again  delighted  by 
their  cheerful  countenances,  and  my  heart  was  refreshed 
by  their  kindness. 

I  never  met  with  people  where  there  was  less  of 
assumption  of  any  kind.  The  style  of  living  is,  indeed, 
wholly  different  from  any  thing  to  which  we  are  accus- 
tomed ;  and  familiar  as  it  has  always  been  to  them,  they 
would,  perhaps,  be  amused  at  my  account  of  it  to  you 
as  in  any  degree  extraordinary.  You  are  not  allowed 
to  feel  for  a  moment  that  you  are  not  entirely  at  home, 
and  they  do  not  permit  you  to  name  your  wants,  because 
they  are  all  anticipated.  Prayers  are  had  every  morning 
at  ten  o'clock  in  the  chapel,  when  the  Duke  himself 
officiates,  or  some  clergyman,  if  there  should  be  one 
present. 

The  Duke  has  invited  me  to  visit  him  this  summer  at 
Gordon  Castle,  in  Scotland,  where  he  says  he  will  intro- 
duce me  to  a  great  many  gentlemen,  and  put  me  in  the 
way  of  seeing  all  that  is  interesting.  At  Goodwood  the 
estate  consists  of  40,000  acres,  at  Gordon  Castle,  of 
300,000  !  The  salmon  fishery  at  Gordon  Castle  is  let 
annually  for  £7000  sterling,  and,  before  the  alteration 
of  the  tariff,  used  to  be  let  for  £10,000  sterling. 


LETTER    XLII.  143 

Mr.  Pusey  has  sent  ine  the  head  of  the  fox  whicli  I 
hunted,  and  was  in  at  the  death  of,  carefully  preserved, 
and  I  have  it  in  a  box  to  send  to  N , 

Lord  Bathurst  has  kindly  promised  to  get  me  tickets 
to  see  the  drawing-room  of  the  Queen  next  week  ;  if  I 
succeed,  I  will  give  you  an  account.  He  and  several 
others  wish  me  to  be  presented,  and  has  offered  me  his 
sword  and  knee  and  shoe  buckles,  and  bag  wig,  &lc., 
but  for  several  reasons,  I  must  decline  the  honor.* 


LETTER  XLIL 

London,  17th  November,  1843. 
My  Dear  S : 

I  AM  not  quite  willing  that  the  packet  should  go 
without  a  letter  to  you,  although  I  believe  you  are  very 
much  in  my  debt,  unless  I  am  to  consider  one  of  yours 
as  equivalent  to  five  of  mine,  which  I  assure  you  I  am 
quite  willing  to  do,  if  I  can  make  no  better  bargain 
with  you. 

I  have  neglected  in  my  letters  to  give  you  any  account 

*  I  have  been  often  asked  whether,  in  such  visits  as  above  described,  fees 
are  given  to  servants.  Usually  a  gentleman  is  happy  to  present  some  small 
douceur  to  the  valet,  and  to  leave  siomething  on  ins  table  for  the  femme  de 
chambre.  In  one  case,  however,  in  speaking  of  this  custom,  a  nobleman  of 
high  rank  remarked  that  he  should  consider  it  an  insult  for  any  gentleman  to 
fee  a  servant  in  his  house.  Sometimes  you  are  requested  not  to  do  it. 
Others  forbid  their  .servants  to  accept  any  thing,  under  pain  of  dismi,s.sal.  At 
the  house  of  a  nobleman  of  high  rank  I  (bund  a  printed  notice  on  my  dress- 
ing table  to  this  effect,  "  The  guests  are  particularly  requested  to  give  no  gra- 
tuities to  the  servants."  In  most  cases,  however,  something  is  expected  for 
your  valet. 


EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

of  two  affairs,  which  had  so  much  interest  for  me,  that 
I  flatter  myself  they  may  have  some  for  you.  Sunday 
before  the  last,  I  went  seven  miles  with  Mr.  Webb,  to 
attend  service  at  Cambridge.  In  the  morning,  we 
attended  the  usual  parish  church,  and  had  a  political 
sermon,  it  being  the  fifth  of  November,  the  anniversary 
of  the  Gunpowder  Plot,  when  the  Papists  prepared  to 
blow  up  the  Parliament.  At  two  o'clock  I  went  to  the 
University  Church,  where  all  the  officers  and  members 
of  the  University  attend,  merely  to  hear  a  short  prayer 
and  a  sermon.  The  prayer  in  this  case,  is  what  is  called 
the  Bidding  Prayer,  being  a  supplication  for  all  classes 
and  conditions  of  men,  mentioning  most  of  them  in 
particular.  The  Liturgy  in  such  case  is  not  used  ;  such 
prayers  are  not  much  to  my  taste,  and  seem  greatly 
wanting  in  dignity  and  reverence.  I  quarrel,  however, 
with  the  religious  institutions  of  no  country.  The 
scholars  were  all  in  their  robes  ;  the  rectors,  in  their 
scarlet  robes  and  flat  caps  ;  the  noblemen  sitting  with 
the  Vice-Chancellor  and  Doctors,  distinguished  by  a  pro- 
fusion of  gold  and  silver  lace  and  tassels  ;  and  the  others, 
two  thousand  of  them,  in  their  black  gowns,  and  flat 
caps,  and  capes,  silk  and  woollen,  with  different  trimmings 
and  badges,  according  to  their  respective  colleges  and 
degrees.  The  Vice-Chancellor  went  in  state,  with  the 
mace-bearer  and  other  officers  in  attendance.  The 
preaching  was  almost  the  best  that  I  have  heard  in 
England.  It  was  a  highly  devout,  practical,  and  useful 
sermon,  and  written  with  great  elegance,  delivered 
in  a  simple,  earnest,  and  unaffected  manner.  There 
was  no  music,  but  it  was  a  grand  show.  At  four  o'clock 
I  attended  the  Chapel  service  of  King's  College.     The 


l.ETTKK    XLII.  145 

scholars  here  are  only  seventy,  and  are  the  elite  of  Eton 
school,  being  all  head-scholars,  whose  education  is  lVe(>, 
as  a  reward  of  merit.  The  room  is  of  the  most  magnifi- 
cent description,  and  the  chanting  exquisite ;  you  can 
only  get  admission  into  these  private  chapels,  by  special 
favor.  At  six  o'clock,  I  went  to  the  Chapel  of  Trinity 
College,  and  here  was  a  very  grand  display  ;  I  had  a 
situation  in  the  organ  gallery,  from  whence  I  had  a  full 
view  of  the  whole  assembly.  The  room  is  not  elegant  ; 
it  is  a  good  deal  larger  than  King's  Chapel  in  Boston, 
with  seats  running  lengthwise,  and  rising  from  the  centre 
aisle.  The  room  was  lighted  by  about  two  hundred  wax 
candles,  and  the  whole  assembly  below,  were  dressed  in 
white  surplices,  with  their  black  square  caps  in  their  hands. 
I  counted  more  than  five  hundred  of  them  ;  and  their 
movements,  and  the  whole  service,  was  a  most  impressive 
scenic  exhibition.  The  greater  part  of  the  service  was 
chanted,  and  so  harmoniously,  that  when,  for  example, 
Amen  was  pronounced,  it  seemed  actually  to  proceed 
from  but  a  single  mouth  ;  I  have  never  witnessed  a  sight 
so  splendid  and  august.  But  I  have  given  a  more  par- 
ticular account  of  it  in  another  letter  to  a  mutual  friend. 
No  student  is  allowed  to  go  without  his  University  dress, 
at  any  time,  out  of  his  own  room  ;  and  at  prayers,  they 
appear  in  white  surplices. 

I  will  give  you  now  an  account  of  another  day's 
adventures.  When  at  Brocklesby,  Lord  Worsley  was 
kindly  solicitous  that  I  should  stay  two  or  three  days 
over  my  time,  in  order  to  go  out  with  the  hounds,  upon 
a  fox-hunt.  I  was  sorry  to  leave,  but  could  not  afford 
the  time.  When  at  Babraham,  however,  Mr.  Webb 
insisted  that  I  should  go  out  one  day,  coursing  for 
13 


146  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS, 

hares,  with  the  Newmarket  Club,  which  were  then 
holding  a  course,  where  the  principal  stakes  among  the 
sporting  gentlemen,  were  five  hundred  guineas  for  the  best 
dog,  after  a  trial  among  fifty  for  a  week,  besides  an  immense 
amount  of  private  betting.  He  himself  belongs  to  the 
club,  who  pay  seven  hundred  guineas  annual  rent,  for  their 
preserve.  So  I  was  fairly  mounted,  and  proceeded  to 
the  field,  at  eleven  o'clock,  just  as  the  first  couple  of 
hounds  were  unleashed,  and  spent  the  day  in  witnessing 
and  participating  in  what  I  could  not  deny,  was  a  most 
exciting,  and  equally  a  most  cruel  amusement.  There 
were  about  seventy  gentlemen  on  the  field,  and  a  num- 
ber of  ladies  on  horseback,  and  the  game  was  most 
abundant.  My  friends  insisted  upon  it,  that  I  should  see 
the  whole  sport,  and  I  was  several  times  in  at  the  death, 
being  exceedingly  well  mounted  ;  and,  if  you  will  believe 
it,  (O  tempora  !  O  mores  !)  actually  leapt,  full  tilt,  over 
one  hedge,  and  a  wide  ditch,  where  a  great  many  of  the 
horsemen  turned  back.  I  got  over,  to  my  own  admira- 
tion, at  least,  and  was  much  complimented  ;  but  I  took 
very  good  care  not  to  go  back  the  same  way,  but  went 
round  by  the  bridge.  Why  I  did  not  break  my  neck,  I 
do  not  know,  unless  I  am  destined  to  have  it  broken  in 
some  other  way.  Here  ends  my  hare-coursing,  though 
I  really  hope  to  see  a  fox-hunt  or  deer-chase,  when  I  visit 
Lord  Hardwicke  ;  but  I  shall  go  merely  as  a  spectator. 

This  is  the  season  for  sporting.  Grouse-shooting  begins 
about  the  twelfth  of  August ;  partridge,  about  the  fourth 
of  September ;  and  after  that,  in  October,  hare-coursing, 
and  fox  and  deer-hunting.  From  the  first  of  August 
until  Parliament  meet  in  February,  the  noblemen  and 
gentlemen  are  in  the  country,  engaged  in  field  sports, 


LETTER    XLII.  147 

or  visiting  euch  other,  in  large  parties,  of  sometimes  ten, 
twenty,  thirty,  and  ahnost  always  with  ladies. 

In  one  of  my  rides  with  Mr.  Webb,  on  the  great 
road  to  Newmarket,  the  place  more  distinguished  than 
almost  any  other  for  horse-racing,  and  possibly,  some 
other  kinds  of  gambling,  we  passed  a  toll-house  with  an 
inscription,  which  at  first  quite  startled  me,  and  which  I 
will  quote  for  your  amusement.  "  Whoever  pays  toll 
here,  will  pass  free  at  the  Devil's  Ditch."  I  make  no 
application  of  it ;  but  the  true  explanation  is,  that 
between  that  place  and  Newmarket,  there  Is  an  exten- 
sive rampart,  supposed  to  have  been  erected  at  a  very 
early  period  of  English  History,  perhaps  at  the  time 
of  the  Roman  Conquest ;  and  a  ditch,  which  here  goes 
by  that  very  remarkable  name,  which  I  almost  fear  to 
quote  to  "  ears  polite,"  called  the  "  Devil's  Ditch."  I 
shall  not  tell  you  whether  I  paid  toll  or  not. 

My  lodgings,  I  hope,  will  improve,  as  the  people  seem 
extremely  anxious  to  please,  and  the  "  poor  maid  of  all 
work,"  has  this  morning,  a  clean  cap,  a  clean  face,  and 
a  clean  apron  ;  all  encouraging  symptoms.  In  general, 
the  English  servants  are  proverbial  for  their  cleanliness  ; 
in  the  best  houses  —  private  houses  —  they  are,  in  dress, 
ladies  and  gentlemen  ;  and  distinguished,  the  women 
especially,  for  good  looks  and  good  manners.  There 
is  a  surpassing  elegance,  although  not  always  the  best 
taste,  in  the  style  of  dress  of  ladies  in  the  higher  classes. 
The  dress  and  appearance  of  the  middle  classes,  with 
many  exceptions,  are  much  inferior  to  ours.  A  lady 
proper,  is  seldom  seen  walking  in  the  street,  without  a 
gentleman  or  a  servant.     Adieu. 


148  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 


LETTER    XLIII. 

London,  1st  December,  1843. 
My  Dear  R : 

Many  thanks  for  your  kind  letter,  and  yet  I  cannot 
say  that  I  deserve  all  the  blame  which  you  are  pleased 
to  bestow  upon  me.  Indeed,  you  do  not  mean  any  such 
thing ;  and  it  is  only  a  trick  which  some  people  have, 
when  they  know  themselves  guilty,  to  begin  blustering 
about  the  sins  and  faults  of  other  people,  so  that  the 
attention  may  be  diverted  from  its  proper  object,  and  they 
escape  with  impunity.  I  have  certainly  written  to  you 
twice  since  I  left  home,  and  yet,  excepting  some  post- 
scripts, which  were  agreeable  enough — for  from  your 
fair  hands  "  the  smallest  favors  are  gratefully  received  " — 
this  is  the  first  regular  communication  with  which  you 
have  honored  me.  This  is  truly  welcome,  and  you  see 
it  is  no  sooner  read  than  acknowledged. 


You,  of  course  know  my  progress  ;  all  my  "  witty 
sayings,  all  my  wise  saws,  and  all  my  grave  sentences  ; " 
what  I  do,  where  I  am,  and  where  I  go  —  for  vanity 
does  not  grow  less  as  one  grows  older ;  and,  for  want  of 
something  better,  I  am  prone  to  fill  up  the  "  million 
reams  of  paper,"  which  you  are  pleased  to  give  me 
the  credit  of  inditing,  with  my  own  renowned  adven- 
tures. 


LETTER    XLIII.  149 

I  was  absent  from  London  about  five  months,  chiefly 
in  the  north  of  England  and  the  low  countries  of  Scot- 
land. I  returned,  therefore,  with  a  feeling  that  I  was 
approaching  home ;  and  really  a  good  many  of  the 
streets  and  comers  and  shops  had  such  an  air  of  famili- 
arity, that  I  began  to  think  myself  among  old  friends 
again.  But  in  London  "  nobody  knows  nobody  "  nor 
anybody  ;  and  you  may  go  down  the  great  thoroughfares 
—  Holborn,  the  Strand,  Piccadilly,  Regent  Street,  Ox- 
ford Street  —  and  no  one  person  ever  seems  to  know 
another.  There  are  never  any  salutations  in  the  street, 
unless  here  and  there  a  couple  of  washerwomen,  old 
cronies,  happen  to  meet  to  drink  a  glass  of  gin  together ; 
and  you'll  never  see  the  same  faces,  unless  it  be  some 
stationary  objects,  such  as  an  applewoman,  who  stands 
the  whole  live-long  day  at  the  same  corner,  with  her 
load  of  apples  and  nuts  swinging  from  her  neck  ;  or  some 
beggar,  blind  or  halt,  or  with  a  thousand  other  miseries 
hanging  about  him  as  thick  as  leaves  upon  a  tree,  who 
has  his  regular  begging-place,  and  may  always  be  found, 
like  a  police-officer,  on  his  accustomed  beat.  Some  of 
these  poor  wretches  I  always  recognize.  I  know  them 
and  they  know  me,  especially  certain  fruit-women  at 
certain  comers,  who  always  courtesy  when  "  your 
honor"  passes,  and  expect  you  to  take  a  penny's  worth 
of  apples  and  get  sixpence  or  a  shilling  for  it,  and  give 
you  all  the  change  your  heart  can  desire  in  "  God 
Almighty  bless  your  honor,"  and  "  Long  life  to  your 
honor,"  and  ''  May  your  dear  honor  never  want  a  bit  of 
bread  as  long  as  you  live,"  and  as  many  more  of  their 
benedictions  as  you  can  carry  away.  I  believe  they 
?Tiean  it  all. 

13* 


150  EUROPEAN    LIFE     AND    MANNERS. 

There  is  everything  in  London  to  admire  ;  its  popu- 
lousness,  its  wealth,  its  gorgeousness,  its  dazzUng 
splendor  ;  but  there  is  the  other  extreme,  and  you  can- 
not walk  a  rod,  especially  at  this  season,  without  meeting 
objects  which  fill  you  with  anguish,  and  make  you  won- 
der how  human  beings  can  live  under  such  wretchedness 
and  destitution.  Here,  in  the  midst  of  plenty,  men  and 
women  and  children  are  dying  of  absolute  starvation  ; 
and  when  you  see  these  poor  shivering,  hungry  creatures 
looking  into  the  window  of  a  cook-shop,  redolent  with 
every  savory  perfume  and  crowded  with  viands,  cooked 
and  uncooked,  of  every  description  to  tempt  and  pamper 
the  Epicurean  appetite,  you  are  amazed  that  a  thin, 
transparent  plate  of  glass  keeps  them  back  from  an 
actual  onslaught.  Whether  there  is  any  remedy  — 
whether  any  can  by  human  ingenuity  be  invented  or 
found,  is  too  difficult  a  problem  for  me  to  solve.  The 
tide  of  human  life  here  that  rolls  along  the  great  streets 
is  beyond  all  description  ;  where  they  all  come  from, 
where  they  are  going  to,  how  half  of  them  are  fed, 
how  half  of  them  are  lodged,  is  inconceivable. 

At  present,  London  is  said  to  be  dull.  Some  of  the 
houses  at  the  West  End  are  shut  up,  and  not  so  many 
splendid  equipages  are  seen  in  the  street ;  but  dull  it 
cannot  be  called,  for  there  is  one  continual  stream  of 
life,  human  and  brute  life,  rushing,  bubbling,  gushing, 
spreading  along  the  whole  time,  pouring  into  every  ave- 
nue, filling  every  crevice,  by  night  and  by  day. 

What  revolutions  seem  to  be  going  on  in  Salem  !  If 
religion  were  a  thing  altogether  external,  then  all  the 
appliances  and  means  of  operation  which  are  set  in 
motion  would  be  of  some  avail ;    if  it  consisted  wholly 


-LETTER    XLIV.  151 

in  going  to  meeting,  in  preaching  or  praying,  or  any  sort 
of  "  excitement,''  commonly  so  called,  why  then  it 
would  be  well  to  multiply  services  without  number ; 
but,  I  fear  that  the  tendency  of  such  things  is,  in  general, 
to  abstract  the  attention  of  mankind  from  its  essential 
character,  its  vital  principles  and  habits,  and  fix  it  upon 
a  substitute  which  is  comparatively  of  little  value.  After 
not  a  short  experience,  1  am  strongly  convmced,  that  all 
extraordinary  means  of  promoting  religion,  vulgarly  so 
called,  are  useless ;  that  the  tendency  of  extraordinary 
professions  is  to  make  men  hypocrites,  and  that  any- 
thing external,  beyond  the  regular  observance  of  the 
Lord's  day,  and  the  serious  and  punctual  support  of  reli- 
gious instmction  and  worship,  is  of  doubtful  expediency. 
The  sight  of  England  has  delighted  me  ;  but,  I  assure 
you,  I  love  my  own  friends  and  my  own  country  better 
than  ever,  abatmg  always  the  noisy  and  turbid  politics, 
which  seem  to  be  the  meat  and  drink  of  the  American 
people.     Adieu. 


LETTER    XLIV. 

Loudon,  1st  December,  1S43. 
My  Dear  Sir: 

I    DATE  my  letter   to   you   from   London  —  a   world 

within  itself,  as  every  one  says :  I  shoidd  rather  say,  the 

heart  of  the  great  world,  where  gather,  and  are  sent  out, 

and   then  returned  again,  all   the  mighty  circulations  of 

the  social  and  political  body,  and  whose  pulsations  are 

felt  in  every  extremity.     This,  then,  is  London,  the  ob- 


152         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

ject  of  my  curiosity  and  wonder  in  my  childhood  ;  and, 
I  '11  assure  you,  in  my  manhood,  surpassing  all  my  curi- 
osity and  all  my  wonder.  When  I  first  alighted  from 
a  close  carriage  in  the  very  centre  of  London,  I  had 
scarcely  taken  time  on  my  arrival  to  order  my  luggage  to 
my  domicil  for  the  night,  than  I  said  to  the  servant, 
"  Tell  me,  where  is  the  Strand :  Tell  me,  where  is 
Temple-Bar  ;  "  and  without  giving  him  time  to  answer, 
down  I  went  into  the  Strand,  and  hurried  on  to  Temple- 
Bar,  to  behold  the  entrance  into  this  mighty  city,  where 
even  monarchs  are  not  admitted  without  asking  leave. 
Here  I  found  a  crowded  street,  hardly  wider  than  Wash- 
ington Street,  in  Boston,  and  a  stone  arch  and  gateway 
which  would  scarcely  admit  two  carriages  abreast ;  an 
erection  itself  by  no  means  the  brilliant  object  which  had 
fired  my  imagination.  "  And  this,"  said  I  to  myself, 
this  is  London,  is  it  ?  Well,  this  is  not  much."  But, 
how  wofully  was  I  mistaken.  I  recollect  the  same  kind 
of  hnpression,  when  I  first  saw  Niagara  :  "  Very  beau- 
tiful," said  I,  "  very  beautiful."  What  conceit  —  what 
insolence  on  my  part !  Soon,  however,  I  came  to  my 
senses  ;  soon  I  saw  the  depth  of  the  flood  and  the  height 
of  the  cataract ;  soon  I  saw  the  vast  inland  oceans  of 
the  unexplored  West  pouring  down  their  mighty  volumes 
of  water  in  one  immense  and  irresistible  torrent ;  soon 
I  saw  the  tumultuous  waves,  miles  beyond  me,  con- 
tending for  supremacy  and  hurrying  on  in  foaming  and 
broken  masses  to  make  the  fearful  plunge  ;  soon  I  con- 
sidered the  Almighty  Power,  which  could  take  up  this 
ton-ent  in  the  palm  of  his  hand,  and  had  fashioned  every 
drop  which  formed  this  commingled  mass,  and  smoothed 
every  glittering  orb  which   poured  itself   along  without 


LETTER    XLIV.  I  5' J 

jostling  its  neighbor,  and  painted  every  beautiful  beam 
of  glory  reflected  from  this  mighty  aggregate  of  jewels  ; 
and  soon  I  gathered  strange  ideas  of  the  duration  of  its 
flood,  and  my  bosom  swelled  more  and  more  with  con- 
victions, too  vast  for  utterance,  of  God's  eternity,  of 
which  I  here  saw  an  humble  emblem. 

Not  at  all  unlike  have  been  my  impressions  of  Lon- 
don ;  they  have  grown  larger  and  larger  every  day  and 
hour.  I  had  been  absent  from  it  four  months,  and  I 
came  back  with  new  wonder  at  its  extent.  I  have  just 
returned  to  it  again,  after  a  fortnight's  absence,  and  it 
seemed  to  me,  on  my  way  to  my  lodgings,  as  if  the 
population  had  quadrupled  in  that  time.  Here  are  two 
millions  of  human  beings  —  to  say  nothing  of  other  living 
things  —  crowded  into  one  place,  from  one  extremity  of 
which  to  the  other  a  man  may  ride  in  two  hours.  Go 
through  the  Strand  and  Fleet  Street  at  noonday,  and 
Threadneedle  Street  and  Bishopsgate  Street,  and  there 
seems  to  be  an  uninterrupted  interlockage  of  carriages 
and  vehicles  of  every  description,  and  the  sidewalks  are 
thronged  with  people  as  if  they  had  just  rushed  out  of 
some  crowded  assembly.  Mount  the  top  of  an  omnibus, 
and  look  down  the  whole  length  of  Fleet  Street  and 
the  Strand,  and  nothing  can  bear  any  likeness  to  the 
view  but  the  breaking  up  of  one  of  our  great  rivers  in 
the  spring  by  some  sudden  flood,  when  the  ice  comes 
down  in  fearful  and  tumbling  masses,  bringing  with  it 
trees  and  uprooted  stumps,  and  logs  and  boards,  and 
broken  fences  and  remnants  of  cottages,  here  moving  in 
a  swift  torrent,  there  circling  in  some  rapid  eddy,  and 
presenting  only  a  picture  of  indescribable  confusion,  and 
yet  all  hastening  on,  with  a  steady  and  certain  progress 


154        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

to  their  destination,  save  only,  that  in  the  streets  of 
London  there  are  counter-streams,  passing  each  other 
without  obstruction  and  without  interference. 

Then  again  the  vastness  of  London.  Go  into  what 
quarter  you  will,  and  you  will  find  some  thing,  some 
place,  some  square,  you  have  not  seen  before.  Turn 
into  any  by-passage,  court-yard,  close,  or  wynd,  where 
scarcely  a  wheelbarrow  can  be  driven,  and  you  will  find 
every  place  occupied,  from  the  cellar  to  the  attic.  The 
subterranean  apartments  of  the  houses  are  as  much 
tenanted  as  the  celestial ;  and  you  may  literally  find 
many  a  humble  tailor  and  cobbler  occupying  portions  of 
cellar-doorways  or  halves  of  shop-windows,  where  the 
cobbler  cannot  stand  erect,  and  where  the  tailor,  if  he 
did  not  sit  cross-legged,  could  not  sit  at  all.  The  squares, 
the  streets,  the  rows  and  blocks  of  buildings,  the  terraces, 
the  crescents,  the  public  edifices,  the  monuments,  the 
private  palaces,  above  all,  the  parks  and  pleasure- 
grounds,  are  numerous  and  extensive  beyond  descrip- 
tion. I  thought  I  had  seen  all  the  markets  some  time 
ago  ;  to-day  I  stumbled  upon  one  covering  several  acres, 
of  which  I  had  never  heard,  filled  with  fruits,  and  vege- 
tables, and  meats.  One's  astonishment  is  increased, 
when  you  observe  the  perfect  order  prevailing  in  this 
vast  multitude.  By  day  or  night,  you  may  walk  as 
securely  in  most  of  the  streets  of  I^ondon  as  in  your  own 
yard.  I  have  strolled  into  all  parts  of  the  city  —  into 
the  most  public  and  the  most  profligate  —  and  I  have 
seldom  seen  a  quarrel ;  and  I  have  seen  carriages,  again 
and  again,  by  hundreds,  passing  each  other  in  the  nar- 
rowest passages,  and  oftentimes  hindered  when  they 
were  evidently  most  impatient  to  get  on,  and  yet  I  have 


LETTKR     XlilV.  155 

seen  no  passion  displayed,  and  heard  no  harsh  language 
uttered  ;  hut  I  have  heard  more  profane  swearing  in  one 
hour  among  the  boatmen  on  the  New  York  Canal,  than 
I  have  heard  during  my  seven  months'  residence  in 
England. 

The  extremes  of  human  condition  here  are  most  affect- 
ing ;  and  the  cases  of  beggary,  and  wretchedness,  and 
destitution,  especially  at  this  season,  make  one's  heart 
bleed  with  anguish.  In  the  midst  of  the  most  extra- 
ordinary abundance,  here  are  men,  women,  and  children 
dying  of  starvation  ;  and  running  along  side  of  the  splen- 
did chariot,  with  its  gilded  equipages,  its  silken  linings, 
and  its  liveried  footmen,  are  poor,  forlorn,  friendless, 
almost  naked  wretches,  looking  like  the  mere  fragments 
of  humanity.  Is  there  any  remedy  for  this  evil  ?  I 
know  of  no  panacea.  You  must  not  think,  because 
this  misery  exists,  that  all  men's  hearts  are  steeled  against 
it.  I  do  not  believe  there  exists  a  country  fuller  than 
this  of  kind  hearts  or  of  charitable  establishments  for 
the  relief  of  the  distressed.  A  •great  problem  is  to  be 
solved,  and  the  heart  of  humanity  is  everywhere 
burning  with  an  intense  and  aching  desire  for  its 
solution. 

I  am  often  asked,  if  I  like  England  ?  Yes  ;  much, 
very  much ;  but  the  inhabitants  of  New  England,  I 
fear,  very  imperfectly  appreciate  their  own  blessings. 


156  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

LETTER   XLV. 

London,  1st  January,  1844. 
My  Dear  M : 

Your  most  grateful  letter  of  the  16th  ult.  reached 
me  this  morning,  nor  could  I  have  had  a  more  welcome 
New  Year's  present.  I  watch  the  arrival  of  the  steamer 
with  great  eagerness.  Your  letters  are  full  of  inter- 
esting matter  to  me.     The  death  of  Mr.  O quite 

afflicts  me.  It  was  of  course  wholly  unexpected,  and 
is  an  irreparable  loss  to  his  wife  and  children,  as  well  as 
to  his  friends.     You  alarm  me,  too,  at  what  you  say  of 

Mrs.  B 's  health.     I  pray  that  it  may  be  restored, 

and  that  after  so  many  years  of  toil  and  travel  and  trou- 
ble, she  may  enjoy  a  little  while  the  comforts  of  her  own 

home.     Mr.   G ,  whose   death   you  report,  I  have 

known  almost  as  long  as  I  have  known  anybody,  and 
he  really  seemed  to  me*  one  of  the  fixtures  of  Boston. 
If  I  remain  much  longer  absent,  I  shall  return  to  a  land 
of  comparative  strangers.  It  amazes  me  when  I  think 
how  many  friends  we  have  survived,  and  in  truth  how 
long  we  have  lived. 

My  Christmas-day  was  passed  at  Mr.  Phillips's,  about 
four  miles  from  town,  to  whose  kindness  I  have  been 
constantly  indebted.  He  is  a  man  full  of  humor 
and  practical  good  sense,  with  a  touch  of  sarcasm, 
which  makes  those  quiver  upon  whom  his  burning  arrows 
alight.  His  wife  is  a  most  gentle  and  affectionate  person. 
The  party  on  this  occasion  was  wholly  domestic.  He 
is  the  father  of  my  most   valued  friend,  Mrs.   T , 


LETTER    XLV.  157 

who,  with  her  liusband,  was  present.  There  was  like- 
wise a  widowed  daughter,  full  of  all  Christian  excellen- 
cies, and  two  unmarried  daughters,  inheriting  not  a  little 
of  their  father's  wit,  the  whole  circle  sparkling  continually 
with  brilliant  scintillations.  More  intelligent,  agreeable, 
and  kind  people,  it  would  be  difficult  to  find.  I  was 
obliged  to  be  grave,  and  put  myself  upon  my  good  be- 
havior ;  but  I  never  wanted  more  to  abandon  myself  to 
the  delicious  excitement  of  such  charming  society.  There 
was  no  constraint,  no  ostentation,  no  grandeur.  It  was 
almost  the  only  day  I  had  felt  well  and  been  able  to 
walk  erect,  for  several  weeks.  But  there  was  one  abate- 
ment of  all  this  pleasure  ;  for  in  the  midst  of  all  of  it,  my 
mind  was  constantly  reverting  homeA\'ards,  and  I  was 
wishing  so  much  that  I  could  have  had  all  of  you  around 
me,  if  only  for  half  an  hour.  Then,  after  all,  to  return 
to  my  own  solitary  chamber  was  not  an  agreeable  cir- 
cumstance. 

On  Friday,  I  go  to  Mr.  Pusey's,  Member  of  Parlia- 
ment, in  Berkshire,  about  seventy  miles  from  London,  to 
pass  a  few  days.  He  is  probably  the  best  informed 
agriculturist  in  England,  and  has  repeatedly  invited  me 
to  visit  him.  I  got  a  kind  letter  from  Lady  Hatherton 
to-day,  inviting  me  to  visit  them  again,  and  from  Lord 
Talbot,  to  repeat  my  visit  there. 

To-day  I  visited  Miss  Edgeworth,  who  is  now  in 
London,  and  sent  me  a  polite*  note  desiring  me  to  call 
on  her.  She  is  small  in  stature,  and  appears  about 
seventy  years  old,  wearing  her  own  gray  hair.  She 
must  have  been  very  good  looking  when  young.  She 
is  now  in  poor  health,  but  is  full  of  animation,  and  told 
me  several  stories  with  the  highest  spirit  and  a  great 
14 


158         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS, 

deal  of  action.  She  remains  here  until  April,  and  I 
have  promised  to  visit  her  again.  She  spoke  with 
great  pleasure  of  Miss  Quincy's  letter,  which  I  had  for- 
warded to  her. 

I  had  an  invitation  to  go  down  into  Herefordshire, 
about  thirty  miles,  to  spend  Christmas  ;  but,  though  I 
greatly  wished  it,  my  engagements  would  not  permit 
me  to  spare  the  time.  I  have  taken  tea  once  at  Mr. 
Carlyle's  since  my  return  —  a  most  agreeable  man,  and 
his  wife  full  of  intelligence,  sprightliness,  and  wit.    Adieu. 


LETTER    XLVI. 

London,  1st  January,  1844. 
2  Spring  Gardens,  Chai-ing-Cross. 

TO    MISS    E.    S.    Q. 

What  shall  I  say  to  *my  dear  friends,  the  Quincys, 
at  the  opening  of  a  New  Year?  What  shall  I  wish 
you  ?  Wealth,  and  health,  and  honor  heaven  has  poured 
into  your  lap  for  years.  Virtue  is  an  heir-loom  in  your 
family,  and  with  that,  peace  of  conscience,  that  most 
precious  of  all  earthly  goods,  comes  of  course.  To  be 
useful,  to  be  respected,  to  be  beloved,  these,  too,  are  all 
yours  ;  and  these,  too,  among  the  best  goods  of  life, 
are  those,  which,  by  the  blessing  of  heaven,  you  can 
command.  The  poor  sailor,  who  did  not  know  how 
to  frame  his  petitions,  but  who  knew  the  letters  of 
the  alphabet,  was  heard  repeating  them  over  and  over 
again  in  his  devotions,  and  then  desiring  that  heaven 
would  put  them  in  such  a  form  as  would  best  suit  his 
necessities,  and  regard  that  as  his  prayer.     Now,  put  all 


LETTER    XLVI. 


159 


the  alphabets  of  all  the  languages  they  teach  at  Cam- 
bridge, which  will  stand  together,  into  such  a  form  as 
shall  comprehend  all  of  good  which  you  desire  for  your- 
selves, be  it  physical,  intellectual,  moral,  spiritual,  celes- 
tial, and  understand  that  as  my  prayer  to  heaven  on  this 
blessed  day  for  you  all,  whom  I  love  and  respect  with 
my  whole  heart.  Take  that  for  all  the  New  Year's 
gifts  which  I  have  to  offer  you. 

Now  what  shall  I  say  to  you  ?  I  know  not  ^\  here  to 
begin.  I  have  seen  England  —  a  sight  for  which  my 
imagination  and  my  heart  burned  with  an  insatiable  de- 
sire. My  expectations  have  been  surpassed.  I  like 
it  vastly  better  than  I  expected  ;  and  I  like  my  own 
country  better  than  I  did  before  I  came  here.  I  have 
not  yet  seen  the  most  picturesque  part  of  England, 
so  I  am  told.  The  scenery,  compared  with  many  parts 
of  New  England,  is  tame  ;  but  the  embellishments  and 
triumphs  of  art  every  where  present  themselves  in 
forms  of  beauty  and  splendor  and  magnificence  which 
are  transcendent.  Flowers  and  shrubs,  parks  and  plan- 
tations, artificial  rivers  running  for  miles  in  the  path 
made  for  them,  lakes  excavated  by  the  human  hand, 
and  cascades  in  every  variety  of  jets  d'eau  pouring 
down  the  sides  of  mountains.  Immense  gardens  and 
pleasure-grounds,  emulating  the  wildness  of  nature, 
with  some  of  the  triumphs  of  art  in  beautiful  statues, 
concealing  themselves  in  recesses  among  the  fountains 
or  in  the  shades,  like  our  first  parents  among  the  trees 
of  Eden.  Palaces,  pictures,  sculpture,  bridges,  castles, 
fortresses,  ruins,  memorials  of  days  gone  by,  moss-cov- 
ered monuments  of  departed  centuries,  fallen  walls  and 
towers  hoary  with  ringlets  and  tresses  of  ivy,  as  if  nature 


160  ETTROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

sought  to  hide  the  ghasthness  of  decay,  and  to  make  even 
death  beautiful.  Here  are  halls  which  have  rung  with 
midnight  revelry,  and  reflected  all  the  splendors  of  regal 
luxury  —  dungeons,  whose  walls  seem  still  to  be  vocal 
with  the  sighing  of  the  wretched  victims  of  despotic  power 
—  and  the  proud  and  tapestried  and  gilded  couches, 
where  princes  have  sought  repose,  and  the  executioner's 
axe,  and  the  iron  beds  where  princes  have  laid  them  down 
to  rise  no  more.  In  how  few  months  have  all  these 
things,  and  thousands  of  objects  as  interesting,  passed 
before  me,  like  a  kind  of  Roman  triumph,  when  the  con- 
queror returned   from   the  sacking  of  an   Eastern   city. 

How  idle  it  would  be  for  me  to  attempt  to  describe 
all  these,  who  have  come  here  to  look  at  cows,  and 
sheep,  and  pigs,  and  men  in  frocks,  and  women  in  wooden- 
shoes,  and  to  study  the  picturesque  in  barn-yards,  sheep- 
folds,  and  hay-ricks.      Do  not,  then,  expect  it  of  me. 

But  what  is  this  at  the  head  of  my  letter  ?  the  King's 
Chapel,  at  Cambridge,  beyond  all  question  the  most 
beautiful  hall  in  England,  and  full  of  miracles  of  archi- 
tectural skill  and  taste.*  Cambridge  at  first  disap- 
pointed me.  I  went  there  to  see  the  Queen.  The 
town  is  irregularly  built,  and  the  public  buildings,  though 
grand,  seem  to  be  crowded  up  in  narrow  streets.  But 
pass  through  the  gates,  and  you  enter  upon  grounds, 
open,  ornamented,  rich  in  verdure,  offering  magnificent 
walks  full  of  trees,  with  the  river  Cam  running  through 
the  centre  of  them,  and  the  buildings  themselves  then 
showing  their  large  extent  and  grandeur. 


*  The  ceiling  of  King's  Chapel  is  composed  of  pieces  of  stone,  so  nicely 
adjusted  that  the  slightest  enlargement  of  the  walls,  by  spreading,  would 
bring  the  whole  down.     It  is  deemed  a  wonderful  structure. 


LKTTKR    XT.VT.  161 

By  an  unfortunate  accident,  as  I  could  not  fj;et  into 
the  hotels,  but  was  oblif^ed  to  seek  private  lo(lt:;infijs,  I 
could  not  be  found,  and  missed  the  tickets  provided  for 
me  to  see  Her  Majesty  in  King's  Chapel  and  the  Senate 
House.     However,  a  lady  altered  the  name  from   Mr. 

C to   Mrs.   C ,  and   used   them,  so  they  were 

not  lost.  I  had  a  great  curiosity  to  see  the  good  lady 
who  thus  voluntarily  assumed  my  name,  but  my  curiosity 
was  disappointed.  This  was  not  all  ;  Lord  Hardwicke 
kindly  sent  me  an  invitation  to  attend  the  ball  given  to 
Her  Majesty  at  his  palace  ;  this,  too,  I  unfortunately 
missed. 

The  next  Sunday  I  attended  evening  prayers  in  the 
great  Chapel  of  Trinity  College,  and  in  King's  Chapel 
likewise.  At  Trinity  there  were  six  hundred  students, 
every  one  in  white  robes.  In  the  evening  the  Chapel 
was  illuminated.  I  sat  in  the  organ-gallery,  from  whence 
I  had  a  perfect  coup  d'ceil.  The  organ  was  played  by 
the  first  master  in  England,  the  greater  part  of  the  ser- 
vice chanted,  the  whole  body  rising  and  kneeling  to- 
gether, as  if  moved  by  a  single  impulse  —  all  young 
men,  on  whom  so  many  destinies  repose  —  the  service  a 
solemn  invocation  for  heaven's  blessing,  ascending  like  a 
single  cloud  of  incense,  filling  the  whole  temple,  and 
every  groin  and  every  arch  sending  back  the  deep  echoes 
of  this  evening  sacrifice.  It  was  beautiful,  pathetic, 
sublime,  and  so  waked  up  my  veneration,  my  marvel- 
lousness  and  my  ideality,  that  I  could  almost  with  my 
hand  feel  their  pulsations. 

Here  am  I,  at  the  end  of  the  road,  and  the  journey  not 

half  completed  ;  but  I'll  spare  you.     I  sent  S 's  letter 

to  Miss  Edgeworth,in  Ireland,  and  have  seen  her  to-day 
14# 


162         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

for  two  hours,  in  London,  where  she  is  to  pass  the  winter, 
for  the  renovating  of  her  infirm  lieahh.  She  is  quite 
advanced,  but  retains  her  vivacity  in  an  eminent  degree. 
She  was  much  gratified  with  your  letter. 

Do,  some  of  you,  write  to  me.  If  you  call  this  im- 
pudent, do  your  worst.  I  am  three  thousand  miles  off; 
but  why  did  I  say  that  when  it  gives  me  such  a  twinge 
at  the  heart.  I  want  to  know  all  about  you  ;  begin  at 
the  beginning  and  so  down,  or  rather  run  along  the  whole 
line,  touching  every  key  and  sounding  every  note.   .   .   . 

My  dear  friends,  let  me  assure  you,  in  sober  earnest, 
of  my  unabated  and  hearty  affection  and  respect. 


LETTER    XLVIL 

London,  SOtli  January,  1S44. 
My  Dear  A : 

I  'll  assure  you  I  was  very  much  obliged  by  your  kind- 
ness in  sending  me  the  autograph  of  Washington,  which 
was  immediately  despatched  to  its  destination.  I  deemed 
it  a  great  personal  favor,  as  there  was  really  no  way  in 
which  I  could  so  well  acknowledge  their  particular 
attention  to  me. 

Three  weeks  ago  I  passed  a  week  at  Mr.  Pusey's,  in 
Berkshire,  and  was  at  a  large  dinner  party  every  day 
for  six  days,  besides  keeping  Twelfth  Night,  as  it  is 
called,  at  a  large  supper  party  of  nobility  and  gentry, 
with  some  agreeable  tableaux  and  a  dance,  in  which 
I  did  not  take  out  any  lady.  I  returned  on  Sat- 
urday, and  went  to  Sheen,  to  Mr.  Bates's,  whose   kind- 


LETTER    XLVII.  163 

ness  is  most  exemplary,  to  a  largo  dinner  party,  at  eight 
o'clock,  and  Sunday  evening  to  another  large  dinner 
party,  at  eight  o'clock,  with  the  Belgian  and  Danish  Am- 
bassadors and  their  ladies,  the  Vice  Chancellor,  and 
several  other  persons  of  distinction,  with  their  ladies  and 
daughters,   forming    an    elegant    and    agreeable   party. 

I  met  with  Admiral  Sir Ogle,  a   very  entertaining 

companion,  who  sat  next  to  me  at  dinner.  He  had 
been  a  good  deal  in  Canada.  I  returned  home,  and 
got  on  quietly  except  dining  with  a  party  at  Dr. 
Lister's,  until  Friday  evening,  when  I  attended  the 
philosophical  lectures  at  the  Royal  Institution ;  on 
Saturday  a  course  of  Agricultural  lectures  by  Profes- 
sor Brande,  which  are  interesting  and  instructive  ;  on 
Saturday  evening,  I  drank  tea  at  Mr.  Carlyle's  ;  Sun- 
day, I  attended  the  French  Church,  where  the  service 
is  always  serious  and  excellent,  and  dined  and  teaed  at 
Mr.  Teschemacher's,  Highbury,  with  a  few  friends,  where 
I  am  always  made  welcome  and  happy.  Monday  I  spent 
at  home  ;  Tuesday,  Mrs.  Reid  and  Mrs.  Jameson  called, 
and  left  their  absolute  command  for  me  to  dine  at  Mrs. 
Reid's  in  the  evening,  —  for  a  private  family  one  of  the 
most  elegant  places  in  London  — and  met  a  brilliant  party 
of  ladies  and  gentlemen  at  dinner,  and  in  the  evening  some 
of  the  elite  of  the  town,  more  of  literary  than  political 
rank.  Wednesday,  I  went  to  Dulwich,  five  miles  from 
town,  to  dine  and  pass  the  nigiit  at  Mr.  Courage's,  whose 
lady  herself  called  on  me  to  invite  me  ;  — a  large  party 
of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  and  a  splendid  entertainment. 
On  Thursday  I  dined  with  a  party  of  noblemen  and  gen- 
tlemen of  the  Anti-com-law-league,  at  their  club-house. 
On  Friday,  I  was  glad   to  get  released  from  a  ])arty  at 


164  ETTROPEAN    LIFE     AND    MANNERS. 

tea  and  attended  the  lecture.  On  Saturday,  I  dined 
with  a  small  party  at  Mr.  Everett's.  On  Sunday,  I 
attended  the  French  Church,  and  in  the  evening  dined 
with  a  party  at  Mr.  Atkinson's,  whose  kindness  to  me 
has  been  uniform  and  constant. 

On  Monday,  I  dined  and  passed  the  evening  with  a 
very  large  party  at  Mr.  M 's,  at  Hackney,  an  Eng- 
lish banker,  with  three  or  four  charming  grown  up 
daughters,  who  play  and  sing  delightfully.  Yesterday 
had  an  invitation  to  lunch,  i.  e.  a  two  o'clock  dinner, 
with  Lady  Byron  —  but  declined  for  want  of  time. 
After  the  tenth  of  February,  I  shall  have  the  pleasure 
to  go  to  her  place  in  the  country,  and  she  is  to  take  me 
to  her  son-in-law's,  Lord  Lovelace,  who  has  sent  me  a 
kind  message  to  visit  him  and  see  his  farming.  He 
has  made  great  improvements.  The  Duke  of  Richmond 
sent  to  me  last  week  expressing  a  wish  to  see  me  when 
he  came  to  London,  that  I  might  fix  a  time  when  I 
would  go  to  Goodwood,  where  his  family  are  now  staying. 

Mr.  H ,  from  Chichester,  has  written  to  me  to  claim 

a  week  at  his  place.  These  invitations  I  must  at  present 
decline,  as  I  cannot  spare  my  days  for  anything  but  agri- 
culture, excepting  my  home  letters,  and  the  sight  of  the 
Queen  to-morrow.  She  goes  in  state  to  open  Parlia- 
ment, and  through  the  kindness  of  the  Duke  of  Rich- 
mond, the  Lord  Chamberlain  has  this  morning  sent  me 
a  ticket  to  the  Royal  Gallery  of  the  House  of  Lords. 
It  is  difficult  to  get  admission.  Even  the  Peeresses  are 
required  to  give  notice  of  their  intention  to  attend  some 
time  before  hand,  and  to  appear  in  full  dress;  so  that  I 
expect  to  see  a  great  display  of  jewels,  both  mineral  and 
animal.     It  is  impossible  to   conceive  without  seeing  it. 


LETTER    XLVTIl.  165 

the  luxury  and  magnificence  in  which  many  of  these 
people  live.  I  have  dined  so  often,  sometimes  week 
after  week  in  succession,  at  tables  covered  with  gold  and 
silver  service,  excepting  the  dessert,  and  that  the  most 
superb  Sevres  porcelain,  that  now  my  surprise  is  not  at 
seeing  it,  but  at  not  seeing  it.     Adieu. 


LETTER    XLVIII. 

TO    A    BOY. 

London,  31st  January,  1844. 
Dear  E : 

I  WAS  very  much  pleased  with  your  letter ;  and  if  1 
do  not  send  you  a  neat  one  in  return,  you  will  mider- 
stand  that  I  am  quite  too  busy  to  take  much  pains  with 
it.  Since  I  wrote  you  I  have  been  one  day  coursing 
and  one  day  hunting  —  coursing  is  riding  after  hares  with 
a  couple  of  dogs,  and  the  object  is  to  see  which  dog  is 
best.  Bets  are  laid  upon  the  dogs,  who  are  slipped 
or  let  loose  as  soon  as  the  hare  is  found ;  a  judge  is 
always  appointed,  and  he  rides  forward  and  determines 
which  dog  runs  best  and  first  catches  the  hare.  Several 
couples  of  dogs  are  tried  ;  every  one  that  is  beaten  is 
put  out  of  the  list ;  then  at  the  last  two  dogs  are  select- 
ed, who  run  for  the  highest  prize ;  the  highest  prize, 
where  I  was,  was  understood  to  be  five  hundred  guineas 
or  twenty-six  hundred  dollars ;  and  the  coursing  was 
continued  every  day  for  a  week.  Ladies  are  often  on 
the  ground,   and  join   in    the  sport,  which   is   too  cruel 


166         EUROPEAN  LIEE  AND  MANNERS. 

for  my  taste.  In  hunting,  there  are  a  pack  of  hounds  ; 
where  I  was,  there  were  about  fifty  in  the  pack,  and 
about  two  hundred  persons,  gentlemen  and  others  on 
horseback,  and  well  mounted.  There  were  several  boys 
a  little  older  than  yourself  upon  ponies.  The  gentlemen, 
who  are  really  sportsmen,  are  dressed  in  bright  scarlet 
coats,  white  leather  breeches  and  waistcoats,  and  white- 
top-boots,  and  silver-mounted  spurs,  and  round  hats  ;  other 
persons,  gentlemen  who  go  merely  as  spectators,  or  occa- 
sionally, and  the  farmers,  appear  in  their  common  dress  ; 
but  are  well  mounted  and  spurred.  The  master  of  the 
Hunt  is  a  gentleman.  The  huntsman  and  the  whipper- 
in  wear  short  red  coats,  or  red  frock  coats,  and  jockey 
caps,  and  the  huntsman  carries  a  horn  upon  his  saddle. 
The  master  of  the  Hunt  likewise  carries  a  horn  to  call  off 
the  hunt  as  he  chooses.  In  this  case  we  met  at  ten 
o'clock,  about  five  miles  from  Mr.  Pusey's  ;  and  what 
with  two  hundred  horsemen  well  mounted,  several  ladies 
in  carriages  waiting  to  see  the  start,  fifty  fine  dogs  per- 
fectly crazy  with  excitement,  and  sticking  close  to  the 
huntsman,  watching  his  every  motion,  and  a  large  assem- 
blage of  laboring  people  and  cottagers  on  foot,  you  may  be 
sure  the  scene  was  very  exhilarating  and  intensely  exciting. 
Among  other  things  I  was  very  much  amused  with  the 
Jock  of  the  Hunt.  This  is  a  lad,  a  tall,  gaunt  fellow  in 
this  case,  with  an  old  red  coat  on,  and  a  jockey  cap,  and 
barefooted,  who  attends  all  the  hunts  in  the  neighbor- 
hood and  contrives  to  get  a  few  shillings  by  opening 
gates,  and  holding  horses,  &;c.,  and  what  is  remarkable, 
by  knowing  the  country  well,  and  cutting  across  fences 
and  fields,  always  keeps  up  with  the  hunt.  He  came 
on   foot  to-day,  twenty  miles,  and  sometimes,  it  is  said, 


LETTKK    XLVllI.  167 

mns  sixty  miles  in  a  day.  In  one  case,  I  am  told, 
where  there  was  a  steeple-chase,  that  is,  running  sev- 
eral miles,  and  seeing  who  would  get  first  to  a  church 
seen  at  a  distance,  he  reached  the  place  first,  having 
gone  strait  and  swum  the  river  Thames,  which  the  horse- 
men did  not  dare  do. 

When  every  thing  was  ready,  at  a  given  signal,  the 
cavalcade  started  ;  we  went  to  several  places,  where 
the  bushes  were  thick,  and  into  several  swamps,  the 
huntsmen  beating  about  with  their  whips  in  various 
directions  to  start  a  fox,  but  were  disappointed ;  till 
at  last,  after  riding  three  or  four  miles,  the  cry  was 
sounded — I  saw  the  fox  start  from  his  cover,  and  the 
race  began  over  hedge  and  ditch,  and  fence  and  field. 
I  agreed  to  go  only  upon  condition  that  I  would  leap  no 
fences.  Mr.  Pusey  told  me  to  keep  after  him,  and  he 
knowing  the  country  well,  would,  by  occasional  doubling, 
go  through  the  gaps,  and  meet  the  hounds  in  various  direc- 
tions. Sometimes  he  leapt  the  fences,  but  I  dismounted, 
and  got  my  horse  over  as  well  as  I  could.  It  was  really 
an  amusing  sight  to  see  the  hounds  in  full  cry,  and  to 
see  more  than  a  hundred  persons  well  mounted,  and 
minding  no  more  going  over  a  fence,  a  wall,  a  hedge,  a 
ditch,  than  you  would  springiiig  out  of  bed.  The  fox 
played  a  great  many  tricks,  frequently  changing  his 
course  ;  the  country  was  quite  flat  ;  sometimes  the  dogs 
would  lose  the  scent,  and  the  whole  party  were  obliged 
to  pull  up  ;  but  at  last,  after  a  chase  of  five  or  six  miles, 
we  came  up  with  the  poor  creature,  and  the  dogs  seized 
him;  the  huntsman  immediately  took  him  from  them, 
cut  off  his  bnash,  that  is  his  tail,  and  stuck  it  in  his  hat, 
and  then  cut  off  his  head,  and  gave  the  body  of  the  poor 


168  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

creature  to  the  dogs,  which  they  dcnoured,  hones,  skin, 
and  all,  in  no  time.  They  did  not  wait  to  have  it  cook- 
ed, I  '11  assure  you  ;  and  it  was  quite  amusing  to  see 
them  pulling  the  pieces  from  each  other's  mouths.  The 
gentlemen  ordered  the  head  to  be  presented  to  me  ;  but 
as  I  told  them  that  I  should  know  just  as  well  what  to 
do  with  a  baby,  as  I  should  with  a  raw  and  bloody  fox's 
head,  I  declined  the  present ;  but  I  believe  they  have 
sent  to  have  it  preserved  for  me,  in  which  case,  I  shall 
transfer  it  to  your  museum.  The  Jock  of  the  Hunt 
was  in  at  the  death,  as  I  was.  I  pitied  the  poor  fox, 
whose  character  as  a  notorious  thief  does  not,  in  general, 
secure  him  much  compassion.  The  ride  was  a  most 
invigorating  and  healthful  one.  We  left  the  party  at 
three  o'clock,  and  they  went  on  after  more  game,  though 
the  horses  seemed  to  me  a  good  deal  distressed. 

The  gentlemen  here  are  universally  sportsmen.  Mr, 
Pusey,  the  day  after  my  arrival,  took  me  out  according 
to  custom,  to  show  me  the  game  he  had  himself  killed 
the  day  before.  It  consisted  of  eighty  hares  and  rabbits, 
and  thirty-two  pheasants,  which  was  enough  for  himself 
and  his  friends. 

Now,  I  have  given  you  a  pretty  full  account  of  my 
sporting :  and  as  I  have  seen  the  show,  this,  I  think, 
will  end  my  practice  in  that  line.      Adieu. 

P.  S.  Several  persons  were  thrown,  and  one  poor 
fellow,  horse  and  all,  tumbled  into  a  ditch,  but  no  one 
minded  him,  only  to  see  that  he  was  not  killed,  and  left 
him  to  get  out  as  he  could. 


LETTER    XLIX.  169 

LETTER    XLIX. 

Loiuioii,  Ist  February,  1844. 


Deak  Sir  : 


The  state  of  feeling  here,  in  regard  to  America,  is  on 
many  accounts,  extremely  unpleasant.  They  will  not 
discriminate  among  the  different  States,  and  choose  to 
involve  the  whole,  in  the  disgrace  of  repudiation.  It 
seems  to  me,  nothing  will  set  this  right,  but  Pennsylva- 
nia's payment  of  her  bonds.  The  speech  of  Governor 
Porter  is  a  most  remarkable  document  —  remarkable  for 
its  assumption  that  the  honor  of  the  State  has  not  been 
tarnished,  and  for  the  cool  indifference  with  which  he 
speaks  of  their  pecuniary  obligations — most  disgraceful 
to  the  State,  likewise,  in  showing  that  they  have  no 
power  to  collect  their  taxes  ;  and  that  taxes  levied  for 
the  payment  of  the  debts  of  the  State,  are,  when  collect- 
ed, applied  to  other  and  different  purposes.  I  have 
read  Mr.  Gary's  pamphlet  with  pleasure,  although  it  is 
too  gentlemanly,  and  too  much  in  the  kid-glove  style,  to 
have  much  effect.  Gurtis's  article  is  written  with  much 
ability  and  power,  but  gentlemen  here  complain  that  he 
is  in  an  error  in  many  of  his  statements,  which  I  am  not 
able  now  to  particularize,  as  I  had  only  an  opportunity 
of  a  cursory  reading  of  it. 

Political  parties,  here,  are  growing  very  warm.     The 

pro-corn-law,  and  the  anti-corn-law  party,  the  restrictive, 

the  protective,  and  the  free-trade  parties,  are  coming  into 

tremendous    collision.      There    is    little    prospect    that 

15 


170  EUROPEAN    L.IFE    AND    MANNERS. 

universal  free-trade  principles  will  soon  be  adopted ; 
but  it  is  generally  conceded  that  the  abolition  of  all 
duty  upon  foreign  wheat,  must  take  place  in  a  year  or 
two  —  if  not  on  the  ground  of  public  interest,  on  the 
ground  of  common  humanity,  —  there  is  such  an  immense 
amount  of  suffering  and  destitution  among  the  poor.  I 
do  not  think  there  would  be  any  exaggeration  in  saying, 
that  thousands  in  this  city  are  actually  dying  a  slow 
death  by  starvation.  This,  however,  may  not  be 
deemed  by  the  Malthusians  a  large  proportion,  where 
the  enormous  amount  of  the  population  is  considered. 
Mechanical  and  professional  labor  of  every  description, 
(excepting  female  labor)  commands  a  very  high  price  ; 
but  common  labor  is  superabundant,  and  its  returns  are 
altogether  inadequate  to  the  comfortable  support  of  the 
laborer,  especially  if  he  has  a  dependent  family,  as  most 
of  them  have ;  for,  really,  it  would  seem  that  marriage,  or 
illegitimate  connections,  increase,  as  the  means  of  support 
are  diminished. 

The  Parliament  is  now  in  session,  and  I  see  by  the 
morning  papers,  they  had  long  debates  in  both  houses, 
last  evening.  I  had  the  high  gratification  of  seeing,  and 
hearing  the  Queen,  from  the  throne  ;  having  been  favored 
with  a  ticket  to  the  House  of  Lords.  So  far  as  parade 
goes,  robes  and  coronets,  gold  and  silver,  velvet  and  silk, 
plumes  and  diamonds,  it  was  a  most  gorgeous  and 
magnificent  display,  as  the  house  was  crowded  not  only 
with  peers,  but  peeresses,  and  the  very  elite  of  the 
aristocracy.  When  w^e  looked  upon  this  young  girl, 
with  a  crown  of  diamonds  upon  her  brow,  and  regarded 
her  as  the  sovereign  of  150,000,000  of  people,  sur- 
rounded by  men  of  the  highest  character  in  the  world, 


LETTKR    L.  171 

who  held  such  immense  destinies  within  their  con- 
trol, the  spectacle  was  in  a  high  degree,  moral  and 
sublime.  I  was  very  fortunate  in  getting  a  ticket,  as 
several  persons,  I  was  told,  applied  to  Mr.  Everett,  whom 
he  could  not  serve.  The  Duke  of  Richmond  sent  me 
two  tickets  to  the  Royal  Gallery,  where  I  could  see,  but 
not  hear ;  and  the  Belgian  Minister,  a  most  kind  and 
courteous  gentleman,  sent  me  one  to  the  Royal  Gallery, 
where  the  Queen  passed,  and  repassed,  on  entering,  and 
returning  from  the  chamber  ;  and  another,  to  the  House 
of  Lords,  itself;  so  that  I  had  the  pleasure  of  obliging 
three  American  friends  here,  who  had  tried  in  vain  to  get 

admission.     Mrs.   M ,  went   under   my  escort,  and 

I  was  most  happy  to  serve  her.     Tell  my  friend,  Mr. 

A ,  her  father,  it  would  have  been  difficult  to  have 

found  a  prettier  woman  in  the  house.  The  dresses  of 
most  of  the  ladies,  were  splendid  indeed,  and  the  heads 
and  necks  of  several  of  them,  a  perfect  galaxy  of  jewels. 
The  English  hold  on,  with  extreme  pertinacity,  to 
ancient  forms  and  customs  ;  and  it  is  a  curious  circum- 
stance, that  when,  at  the  close  of  Parliament,  the 
Queen's  assent  from  the  throne,  to  laws  which  have 
been  passed,  is  signified,  it  is  always  announced  in 
Norman  French. 


LETTER   L. 

London,  2d  February,  1844. 
My  Dear  E : 

I    PROMISED    myself  the    pleasure   of  giving    you  a 
long    letter,    but    the   time    has    been   taken    from  me. 


172  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

I  saw,  yesterday,  the  Queen,  upon  her  throne,  in 
the  House  of  Lords,  and  heard  her  speech.  The 
house,  excepting  the  seats  occupied  by  the  peers, 
were  filled  with  ladies  of  rank  and  distinction,  dressed 
in  a  manner  much  too  splendid  for  your  old  grand- 
father to  describe.  Such  an  array  of  crowns  and  coro- 
nets, swords  and  epaulets,  silks  and  velvets,  gold  and 
silver,  stars  and  diamonds,  long  trains,  embroidered 
shawls  of  velvet  and  gold,  lace  veils,  plumes  of  the 
most  splendid  description,  and  diamonds  enough  to  put 
your  eyes  out,  I  had  hardly  imagined.  The  Queen's  ap- 
proach was  announced  by  cannon  and  trumpets,  and  she 
entered  and  took  her  throne,  precisely  at  two  o'clock. 
On  her  brow,  she  wore  a  circlet  of  brilliant  diamonds, 
extending  completely  round  her  head,  and  two  beautiful 
ladies,  superbly  dressed,  stood  behind,  or  rather  at  the 
side  of  her  chair,  and  behind  them,  were  the  maids  in 
waiting,  with  the  pages,  who  bear  her  train.  These 
pages,  were  boys,  of  perhaps  fourteen  years  of  age,  sons 
of  noblemen,  with  long  single-breasted  coats,  silk  stock- 
ings, buckles,  and  bag  wigs,  and  dressed  in  the  style  of 
two  centuries  ago.  The  crown  was  borne  on  a  velvet 
cushion,  by  one  of  the  great  officers  of  the  kingdom. 
The  sword  of  state,  was  carried  by  the  Duke  of  Welling- 
ton, and  the  bag,  or  purse  of  maintenance,  by  another 
great  officer.  When  the  Queen  was  seated,  the  Lord- 
Chancellor,  falling  upon  one  knee,  at  the  foot  of  the 
throne,  presented  her  the  speech,  which  she  was  to  read  ; 
and  received  it,  after  she  had  done.  The  ladies  in 
waiting,  one  of  whom,  on  this  occasion,  was  the  Duch- 
ess of  Buccleuch,  assisted  in  bearing  her  train,  which 
appeared  to  be  of  crimson  velvet,  trimmed  with  ermine. 


LETTER    L.  173 

Her  enunciation  was  clear  and  her  voice  cliarniing. 
Some  of  the  peeresses,  and  ladies,  in  front  of  the  bar, 
stood  upon  the  benches,  so  as  to  interrupt  the  view  of 
several  gentlemen.  I  saw  them  forward  a  piece  of 
paper  to  them,  on  which  they  had  written,  certainly 
in  no  very  complimentary  style,  "  Ladies,  you  are  not 
transparent,"  which  induced  them  at  once  to  get  down. 
The  ladies,  as  is  too  often  the  case  at  such  times,  were 
not  considerate  of  those  behind  them.  The  whole 
assembly  stand,  until  the  Queen  desires  the  peers  to  be 
seated,  and  takes  her  own  seat.  The  gentlemen  of  the 
House  of  Commons,  are  then  sent  for,  and  come  rushing 
in,  with  their  speaker  at  their  head,  and  stand  uncovered 
at  the  bar,  the  speaker  making  three  very  low  bows,  to 
her  majesty,  on  the  throne. 

After  reading  her  speech,  the  Queen  retired,  in  the 
same  style  as  she  came  in.  It  was  a  magnificent  spec- 
tacle, and  the  scenic  effect  was  very  imposing.  Her 
coach  is  glazed  on  three  sides,  is  very  large,  covered  with 
gilding,  and  drawn  by  eight  cream-colored  horses,  with 
the  most  brilliant  silk,  gilt,  and  morocco  harnesses.  She 
appeared  extremely  well,  and  was  received  with  great 
enthusiasm,  by  thousands  of  people,  \\  ho  thronged  the 
street,  where  the  procession  passed.  She  was  escorted 
to  and  from  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  through  St.  James's 
Park,  by  a  large  body  of  mounted  troops  and  guards, 
superbly  equipped.     Adieu. 


15* 


174  EUROPEAN    LIFE     AND    MANNERS. 

LETTER   LI. 

Loudon,  4lli  March,  1844. 
My  Dear  M : 

Let  me  thank  you  for  your  kind  letter.    Please  thank 

M for  her  letter ;  but  do  beg  her,  when  she  next 

writes,  to  put  a  little  ink  in  the  water,  otherwise  I  shall 
never  be  able  to  decipher  her  hieroglyphics. 

The  winter  here  has  been  extremely  pleasant ;  fog 
and  smoke  enough  in  London,  but  no  cold,  and  scarcely 
a  night  of  freezing,  and  the  temperature  of  the  days  often 
most  delightful ;  but  what  a  time  you  must  have  had 
with  your  terrific  cold  !  My  time  here  is  more  than 
occupied,  and  I  am  obliged  to  decline  many  engage- 
ments. 

I  rise  always  as  soon  as  seven,  and  am  now,  as 
the  mornings  grow  lighter,  getting  up  at  six.  I  do 
not  leave  my  room,  unless  in  particular  cases,  until 
two,  nor  generally  until  three  o'clock.  I  breakfast  at 
nine,  and  dine,  when  I  dine  at  my  own  place,  at  half- 
past  four.  I  get  two  or  three  hours'  walk,  which  I  find 
indispensable  to  me  before  or^  after  dinner.  If  I  dine 
abroad,  which  is  two  or  three  times  a  week,  the  hour  is 
half-past  seven  ;  and  I  get  to  bed  about  one,  not  a  very 
rational  hour,  I  '11  assure  you.  If  I  go  to  a  party,  the 
hour  is  ten,  and  the  return  not  much  before  half-past 
one.  On  Wednesdays  I  meet  the  Agricultural  Society 
at  noon,  for  two  hours  ;  on  Friday  evenings  I  attend  a 
lecture  on  natural  science  at  the  Royal  Institution  ;  on 
Saturdays,  at  three,  a  lecture  on  agricultural  chemistry  ; 


LETTER    LI,  J  75 

two  nights,  lately,  1  hav^e  been  until  long  after  niidnigin 
at  the  House  of  Commons  to  hear  the  debates  ;  calls,  I 
am  obliged  to  abjure  when  possible  without  giving 
offence.  There  is  in  general  but  one  service  in  the  day- 
time at  church  on  Sundays,  and  in  the  evening  I  never 
go.  Three  Sundays  now,  in  succession,  I  have  walked 
out  of  town  to  dine ;  after  church  yesterday,  five  miles 
and  back,  and  have  now  two  engagements  to  dine  out 
of  town,  the  two  next  Sundays,  I  never  ride  where  I 
can  walk  ;  and  I  believe  to  this  and  my  daily  cold  bath 
I  owe  my  health,  which,  as  I  sleep  well  and  eat  well, 
I  must  say  is  good. 

Since  I  wrote  you,  I  have  been  again  into  the  country. 
Lord  Hatherton  wrote  me  a  kind  and  pressing  invitation 
to  meet  a  party  at  his  house  to  whom  he  wished  to  intro- 
duce me,  and  desiring  me  to  pass  a  week  with  him.  I 
could  not  go  on  Monday,  but  went  on  Thursday,  and  staid 
until  Monday,  and  met  there  some  most  agreeable  peo- 
ple. Earl  Dartmouth  and  lady.  Lord  and  Lady  Prudhoe, 
and  some  others  whose  names  have  escaped  me,  and  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  M ,  &;c.,  &;c.  The  visit  was  in  every  re- 
spect most  agreeable,  but  I  should  not  have  left  town 
were  it  not  that  my  agricultural  objects  could  not  be 
more  advanced  than  by  a  visit  to  his  farm,  where,  proba- 
bly, some  of  the  best  improvements  in  England  have 
been  made.  On  my  former  visit,  my  accident  prevented 
ray  seeing  them. 

I  have  been  likewise  on  a  visit  to  Lady  Byron,  in  the 
country,  a  most  excellent  person,  who  has  under  her 
management  considerable  landed  property,  and  takes  the 
greatest  interest  in  the  rural  population,  and  especially 
in  the  comfort  and  improvement  of  the  condition  of  those 


176  EUROPEAN"    LIFE     AND    MAXNERS. 

who  are  dependent  upon  her.  My  time  did  not  admit 
of  an  extended  visit,  and  she  wrote  me  again  last  week, 
to  go  into  the  country  with  her  to  see  her  allotments  and 
agricultural  schools,  but  I  was  compelled  to  decline  her 
kindness  for  the  present.  Her  life  and  wealth  seem  de- 
voted to  doing  good,  and  her  beneficence  is  always 
active,  wide,  and  energetic. 

Mr.  Stimpson,likewise,  whom  I  mentioned  in  a  former 

letter  to  S ,  has  begged  me  to  pass  the  Easter  holidays 

at  East  Retford.  It  is  impossible  for  me  to  make  a  more 
agreeable  visit  than  that  would  be,  but  I  must  decline 
until  my  second  report  is  completed.  I  have  this  morn- 
ing just  received  a  letter  from  the  family  of  Mr.  Morse, 
most  kind  and  agreeable  people,  begging  me  to  come 
down  at  once  and  make  them  another  visit,  but  I  cannot 
do  it.  Saturday  evening  I  passed  at  the  Marquis  of 
Northampton's,  the  President  of  the  Royal  Society,  at  one 
of  his  conversations  and  soirees,  where  were  to  be  seen 
many  of  the  learned  and  wise  heads  of  London,  several 
of  them  in  their  court  dresses,  swords,  and  shorts,  bag 
wigs,  and  straight-breasted  coats,  with  stars  and  garters, 
Stc,  &£c.,  a  fashion  which  may  suit  those  who  like  it. 

London  is  full  of  excitement  —  clubs  and  societies  of 
every  description  ;  theatres,  operas,  balls,  concerts,  pre- 
sentations, meetings,  parties,  large  and  small.  I  dined 
last  week  at  Mr.  Littleton's,  whose  lady,  distinguished 
for  her  good  sense,  is  a  most  agreeable  woman,  and  as 
friendly   as  possible.      I  have    dined   and    passed    the 

evening  repeatedly  at  Mrs.  R 's,  a  woman  of  large 

fortune,  living  in  great  elegance,  and  a  heart  as  large  as 
her  fortune.  Here  I  cannot  go  half  as  often  as  I  should 
like  to.  nor  half  as  often  as,  T  am   asked.     Dr.  Lister's 


LETTER    LI.  177 

family,  too,  are  most  kind  and  agreeable  people.  1  am 
often  there,  and  was  at  a  large  party  there  last  week. 
I  have  dined  twice  at  Mr.  T 's,  whose  wife  pos- 
sesses a  most  brilliant  mind,  and  whose  most  friendly 
conduct  always  makes  me  feel  like  an  integral  member 
of  the  family.     1  have  dined  three  times  recently  at  Mr. 

P 's,  five  miles  out   of  town,  exactly  the  kind  of 

people,  inquisitive  and  intelligent,  full  of  humor  and 
heartiness,  whom  I  like. 

To-night  I  go  to  a  party  at  Mr.  Lyell's,  who  was  in 
America.  Mrs.  L 's  father-in-law  was  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  Geological  Society,  and  at  a  meeting  of  that 
society,  at  a  dinner  which  I  had  the  honor  to  attend, 
said,  in  the  most  pleasant  way  possible,  by  way  of  show- 
ing the  encouragement  which  he  had  given  to  geology, 

his  favorite  pursuit,  that  he  had  allowed  Mr.  L to 

take  one  of  the  fairest  specimens  from  his  private  cabinet. 
I  fully  agreed  with  him  in  his  estimate  of  his  daugh- 
ter's attractions,  and  the  beauty  and  brilliancy  of  this 
specimen.  Here  I  expect  to  meet  Miss  Edgeworth 
again,  whom  I  have  met  several  times,  and  always  with 
the  greatest  interest.  Miss  Edgeworth  is  full  of  years, 
but  with  intelligence  sparkling  and  bright,  and  a  youth- 
ful vivacity  un quenched. 

Last  Sunday  evening,  a  week  since,  I  went  to  the 
Blue  Coat  School,  at  Christ's  Hospital,  to  see  the  boys 
take  their  supper.  There  were  eight  hundred  and  fifty 
of  them  ;  they  supped  in  one  large  hall,  and  the  sight,  I 
assure  you,  was  exceedingly  interesting.  During  Lent, 
their  suppers  are  public  to  those  who,  through  their 
friends,  can  obtain  tickets,  and  the  galleries  were 
filled  with  well-dressed  people.     The  boys  were  from 


178  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

eight  to  fourteen  years  old,  all  dressed  uniformly  — 
healthy,  clean,  and  well-behaved,  consisting  of  charity 
scholars  and  noblemen  and  gentlemen's  sons.  The 
course  of  instruction  is  of  a  high  •character.  After  re- 
ligious services,  singing  and  reading  prayers,  in  which 
one  of  the  pupils  led,  they  sat  down  quietly  to  supper, 
which  consisted  of  about  half  a  pound  of  bread,  a  piece 
of  butter  and  a  drink  of  beer  out  of  a  wooden  piggin, 
and  nothing  more  and  nothing  else ;  rather  a  frugal  diet, 
but  their  appearance  spoke  well  for  their  health,  and 
they  certainly  seemed  to  enjoy  their  plain  meal. 

Tea  and  coffee  are  wholly  excluded  from  these  places, 
and  the  meat  used  in  this,  as  well  as  some  other  such 
schools  in  England,  is  almost  exclusively  mutton,  which 
I  believe,  is  served  to  them  for  dinner,  here,  five  days  out 
of  seven.  This  is  certainly  an  encouragement  to  sheep- 
raising  ;  whether  it  has  a  tendency  to  make  mutton- 
heads,  I  cannot  say  ;  it  did  not  appear  on  this  occasion. 
The  dress  of  these  boys,  is  quite  peculiar ;  a  long,  blue, 
single-breasted  coat,  reaching  down  to  their  feet,  yellow 
buck-skin  breeches,  yellow  woollen  stockings,  and  shoes 
with  buckles.  They  have  caps,  but  seldom  in  the  street, 
or  anywhere  else,  wear  any  thing  on  their  heads.  The 
board  and  education  of  the  boys  are  wholly  gratuitous, 
their  funds  being  very  great,  and  certain  persons,  or  cor- 
porations, having  the  right  of  presentation.  Why  the 
sons  of  noblemen  and  men  of  wealth,  should  be  found 
in  an  establishment  purely  charitable,  is  a  question 
which  I  cannot  solve.     Adieu. 


LETTKU    Lll.  179 


LETTER  Lll. 

London,  28tli  March,  1844. 
My  Dear  S : 

Many  thanks  for  your  kind  letter ;  it  has  made  ine 
very  happy  to  think  that  the  engraving  suited  you.  I 
send  you,  according  to  your  request,  another  — "  The 
Scotch  lassie  tending  sheep,"  by  Landseer.  I  must 
say,  I  never  saw  any  thing  prettier,  and  I  hope  you  will 
agree  with  me.  It  has  not  been  long  published,  and  is 
universally  admired.  I  did  not  get,  as  you  suggested, 
but  will  now,  if  you  desire  it,  "  Dignity  and  Impiu- 
dence."  It  is  a  fine  picture,  and  a  very  common  one. 
Landseer's  favorite  subjects  seem  to  be  a  dog  and  a 
horse.  There  are  several  of  his :  such  as  "  The 
Queen's  hounds,"  "  The  dog  in  suspense,"  "  The 
dog  who  seems  to  say,  '  There  is  no  place  like 
home,'  "  "  The  bloodhound  watching  his  master's  hat 
and  horse,"  "  The  dog  in  office,"  and  several  others, 
all  in  themselves  beautiful,  but  not  one  of  them  to  bear 
comparison  with  "  The  Lord  Chancellor  laying  down 
the  law,"  which,  indeed,  may  be  pronounced  a  complete 
grouping  of  all  his  excellencies.  I  therefore  got  you 
what  I  think  as  pretty  as  any  thing,  "  The  Scotch  lassie," 
which  the  more  you  look  at,  you  will,  I  think,  the  more 
admire. 

I  shall  go  to  Edinburgh  and  the  extremity  of  Scot- 
land this  summer.  I  have  been  at  several  parties  lately. 
To-night  I  go  to  two  others.  The  dresses  of  the  ladies, 
at  their  evening  parties,  are  most  splendid  and  almost 


180         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

wholly  of  silk,  of  a  superior  description.  The  refresh- 
ments are  of  a  very  simple  character.  The  invitations 
specify,  in  general,  half-past  eight  to  nine, — half-past 
nine  to  ten  is  about  the  hour  to  go.  Tea  and  coffee  are 
seldom  handed  round.  Sometimes  you  find  it  in  the 
ante-room,  where  you  disrobe,  and  the  servants  hand  it 
to  you  before  you  are  announced  in  the  drawing-room. 
You  are  announced  always  by  the  servant  at  the 
foot  of  the  staircase  to  the  servant  at  the  head,  and 
by  the  servant  at  the  head  to  the  company.  It  is 
very  rare  that  you  are  introduced  to  any  person  on  any 
occasion,  either  dinner  or  evening,  unless  you  go  to  stay, 
or  the  party  is  small  ;  but  it  is  not  deemed  improper  that 
you  enter  into  conversation  with  your  neighbors.  The 
hair  is  generally  dressed  entirely  plain,  without  jewels  or 
flowers,  frequently  a  la  Madonna,  but  often  with  ringlets 
in  front.  Elderly  ladies  wear  their  gowns  very  low  in 
front ;  young  ladies  wear  their  gowns  rather  high  in 
front,  but  very  low  behind,  so  as  to  show  the  bust  to 
advantage.  Short  kid  mittens  or  gloves  are  worn  up  to 
the  wrist ;  then  the  arm  is  bare  to  the  elbow,  with  short 
sleeves  and  a  good  deal  of  lace  round  the  elbows  and 
bosom.  The  gowns  are  worn  very  long,  with  white 
kid   shoes. 


In  detailing  these  fashions,  I  cannot  promise  that 
they  will  not  have  changed  before  this  reaches  you,  for 
English  and  French  fashions  of  dress  are  not  permanent, 
like  many  of  the  continental  costumes. 

Sometimes  you  find  tea  at  a  side  table  in  the  room, 
and  the  lady  of  the  house,  when  you  come  in,  invites 


LETTER    Lll.  181 

you  to  go  to  the  table  and  help  yourself.  Sometimes  a 
table  with  wines,  jellies,  blanc  mange,  &;c.,  he,  is  set 
out  in  a  side  room,  where  the  company  help  themselves, 
and  the  gentlemen  serve  the  ladies,  or  there  are  servants 
to  serve  them.  At  some  elegant  parties  where  I  have 
been,  nothing  but  cake  has  been  handed  round.  1 
have  as  yet  seen  no  card-playing  at  parties,  though  this 
sometimes  is  done  in  a  side-room.  Conversation  and 
music,  with  singing  and  sometimes  waltzing,  have  consti- 
tuted the  evening's  entertainment.  The  late  hours  are  dis- 
agreeable to  me.  I  was  the  first  to  leave  a  large  party 
the  evening  before  the  last,  and  that  was  at  half-past 
twelve.  Going  to  bed  at  one,  and  getting  up  at  six  in 
the  morning,  does  not  agree  very  well  with  me,  but  makes 
me  look  so  pale,  that  I  get  a  little  disturbed  when  I  see 
myself  in  the  glass.  Society  here,  however,  is  on  a 
very  agreeable  footing.  I  do  not  think  the  ladies  par- 
ticularly beautiful,  though  there  are  some  remarkable 
exceptions. 

I  have  changed  my  lodgings  since  I  wrote  last,  and 
ray  window  now  embraces,  besides  a  large  open  square, 
a  long  perspective  of  the  Strand,  one  of  the  busiest  parts 
of  London.  Mr.  Derby  compares  it  to  Washington 
Street,  —  but  it  is  Washington  Street  many  times  multi- 
plied, and  presenting  a  variety  of  costume,  character, 
vehicle,  national   peculiarities,  Sec,  &z,c.,  which   beggar 

all  description.     S seemed  to  think  that  everybody 

must  know  that  the  streets  of  London  were  full,  and 
what  kind  of  people  were  in  them.  The  truth  is,  no 
one,  who  has  not  seen  some  of  the  great  thoroughfares, 
can  have  any  just  conception  of  their  appearance  in  the 
busiest  hours  of  the  day.  If  I  had  the  time,  the  pros- 
16 


182        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

pect  from  my  window  would  be  a  source  of  infinite 
entertainment,  and  present  ample  subjects  for  wise 
moral  reflection. 

The  extracts  in  the  papers  from  Mr.  Mann's  reflec- 
tions upon  the  educational  condition  of  society  here, 
have  made  me  desirous  to  see  more.  The  upper 
classes  here  are  certainly  very  highly  cultivated ;  the 
lowest  are  in  an  extremely  forlorn  and  degraded  condi- 
tion. What  are  called  the  national  schools,  present  a 
very  low  standard  of  attainment.  In  truth,  some  in  the 
higher  classes,  so  far  from  valuing  education  for  the 
poor  as  it  is  valued  among  us,  appear  to  think  any  thing 
more  than  reading,  writing,  the  four  first  rules  of  arith- 
metic, and  the  church  catechism,  as  a  positive  evil  to 
the  laboring  classes,  and,  therefore,  discourage  every 
thing  which  would  waken  in  their  minds  a  thirst  for 
knowledge,  and  make  them  desire  it  as  they  desire  their 
daily  bread. 

Society,  regarded  in  its  political  aspects,  is  here  in  a 
peculiar  condition,  and  cannot  be  looked  upon  without  a 
degree  of  anxiety.  The  elements  are  in  a  state  of  vio- 
lent fermentation,  and  it  is  quite  plain  to  me  that  the 
government  is  at  present  maintained  mainly  by  military 
force.  The  disturbances  in  Ireland,  the  divisions  in  the 
church  in  Scotland,  the  condition  of  the  poor  throughout 
the  country,  the  agitation  on  the  subject  of  the  corn 
laws,  the  movements  of  the  High  Church  party,  the 
Pusey  controversy,  the  hatred  of  the  Established  Church, 
not  uncommon  among  the  dissenters,  and  which  sets 
continually  in  a  strong  undercurrent,  threatening  to 
undermine  this  cumbrous  and  mighty  fabric,  present 
altogether  a  jumble  of  noxious  elements,  whose  chem- 


LETTER    LU.  183 

ical  operation,  if  I  may  use  the  expression,  thrown 
together  in  the  same  retort,  no  one  can  foresee. 

The  American  reputation  is  still  at  a  very  low  ebb. 
I  scarcely  go  into  any  company  that  I  am  not  absolutely 
compelled  to  do  battle  for  the  country.  The  mere  sug- 
gestion of  repudiation,  which,  I  believe,  has  never  been 
contemplated  by  any  but  the  state  of  Mississippi,  has  done 
us  an  immense  injury.  It  was  quite  a  relief  to  me  this 
week,  to  see  the  payment  of  the  dividends  on  Massa- 
chusetts stock  advertised  as  ready  for  the  stockholders. 

In  some  respects,  the  American  papers  are  absolutely 
without  excuse  ;  and  in  nothing  more,  than  their  ill- 
natured  remarks  concerning  this  country,  and  their 
attempts  to  kindle  a  war  spirit.  I  believe  the  great 
mass  of  the  British  nation  are  kindly  disposed  towards 
America ;  and  such  a  tone  and  such  remarks  seem  pre- 
eminently out  of  place,  immediately  after  the  amicable 
adjustment  of  the  difficulties  and  points  of  controversy 
which  so  long  threatened  an  open  rupture. 

A  war  between  these  two  countries  would  be  as 
unnatural  as  any  family  quarrel  which  ever  occurred  ;  and 
could  possibly  end  in  no  way  but  to  the  disadvantage  of 
both,  after  an  incalculable  amount  of  suffering  and  mis- 
chief. America  seems  really  to  be  cursed  with  some 
selfish,  mean  politicians,  who,  to  gross  ignorance  and 
entire  recklessness  of  moral  principle,  add  only  views  of 
the  most  narrow  and  sordid  character,  and  are  incapable 
of  understanding  or  acting  upon  any  large  and  compre- 
hensive principles  of  right  and  justice,  and  of  regarding 
with  a  single  eye  the  great  interests  of  humanity. 

I  hope  it  will  not  be  many  years  before  you  visit  this 
country,   and    enjoy   all    that   I   have    enjoyed.     I   am 


184  EUROPEAN    LIKE    AND    MANNERS. 

almost  tired  of  saying,  I  cannot  express  my  admiration 
of  wliat  is  constantly  presenting  itself  to  my  observation. 
The  magnificence,  substantialness,  and  large  scale  upon 
which  every  thing  is  conducted  here,  impress  the  mind, 
in  the  deepest  measure,  with  the  greatness  of  the  people. 
A  person  has  only  to  look  at  the  five  bridges,  which, 
within  sight  of  each  other,  cross  the  Thames,  three  of 
which  are  of  solid  granite,  and  the  other  two  of  iron,  to 
be  most  forcibly  struck  with  the  substantial  character  of 
every  public  undertaking.  These  bridges,  however,  in 
their  solidity,  seem  to  be  only  an  emblem  of  the  firmness 
of  the  government.  However  rapid  and  perturbed  the 
current  which  flows  under  them,  they  remain  unaffected 
above  it. 

To  persons  at  a  distance,  it  would  seem,  that  the 
Irish  agitation  was  portentous  of  destruction  and  outrage  ; 
but  the  government  have  no  serious  apprehensions.  It 
cannot  succeed  ;  it  must  die  away  after  its  violence  has 
expended  itself  in  a  few  more  crowded  meetings,  noisy 
speeches,  and  inflammatory  resolutions.  The  refractory 
child  will  cry  itself  to  sleep.  I  have  no  confidence  in 
the  patriotism  of  O'Connell.  With  hun,  it  seems  a 
mere  matter  of  religious  bigotry  and  personal  emolu- 
ment. He  realizes  immense  sums  from  the  credulity  and 
weakness  of  the  poor  Irish.  Nothing  has  surprised  me 
more,  than    to   learn,   from   one   of   the   late   American 

papers,  that    Governor    S has    recently   made    a 

speech  in  one  of  the  repeal  meetings.  What  can  he 
have  to  do  with  Irish  politics  ? 

The  expense  of  living  here,  is  much  more  than  with 
us.  Gentlemen  dress  more,  and  are  very  attentive  to 
appearance.     Foppishness  is  always  ridiculous,  but  one 


LETTER    LIII.  185 

would  be  sorry,  from  any  neglect  of  himself,  to  be 
wanting  in  proper  respect  to  the  society  into  which  one 
is  invited,  and  to  the  gentlemen  of  whom  one  may  be 
the  guest.  We  have  a  number  of  Americans  here,  who 
seem  to  be  enjoying  themselves  very  much. 

I  send  you  a  paper,  which  will  give  you  some  little 
account  of  the  excitement  at  Oxford,  on  occasion  of 
conferring  a  degree  of  LL.D.  on  Mr.  Everett.  It  was 
openly  opposed  by  the  Puseyites,  because  he  had  been 
a  Unitarian  preacher.  Religious  bigotry  seems  rather  to 
be  gaining  than  losing  ground  ;  but  it  would  appear, 
according  to  the  constitution  of  the  University,  that  they 
had  a  right,  before  conferring  its  honors,  to  demand  a 
conformity  to  their  established  faith.  They  are  not, 
therefore,  to  be  charged  with  inconsistency. 

The  clock  near  me  strikes  the  quarter :  it  is  one. 
The  streets  are  full,  and  the  stream  of  carriages  incessant. 
There  is  no  night  in  London. 


LETTER   LIII, 

TO    MISS    E,    Q. 

London,  2d  April,  1844.    56  Charing  Cross. 
My  Dear  Friend  : 

It  is  a  very  easy  matter,  most  certainly,  for  some  per- 
sons to  do  good  ;  and  if  you  knew  how  much  pleasure 
your  letters  give  me,  I  am  afraid  you  would  be  a  little 
proud  of  your  own  power  of  beneficence.  It  was  "read 
and  conned  by  rote,"  and  like  poor  Oliver,  I  take  the 
liberty  of  "  asking  for  more."  I  hardly  know  what  to 
16* 


186  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

tell  you  that  would  most  interest  your  curiosity  ;  but  I 
join  in  your  wish  that  you  could  see  with  your  own,  and 
not  merely  through  the  eyes  of  another,  many  objects 
here,  which  I  know  would  deeply  interest  you.  I  have 
been  this  week  to  turn  over  the  engravings  of,  perhaps, 
the  largest  picture-shop  in  the  world,  for  the  sake  of  exe- 
cuting a  commission  from  America  ;  and  I  was  constantly 
thinking  how  much,  with  your  fine  taste,  you  would  have 
enjoyed  these  treasures  of  art.  Landseer's  pictures 
and  engravings  seem  here  to  take  the  lead ;  his  subjects 
are  somewhat  limited,  but  beholds  an  exquisite  pencil,  and 
can  hardly  be  too  much  admired.  I  have  sent  home  by 
this  packet,  several  of  his  engravings  which  I  hope  you 
will  see,  that  I  may  have  your  opinion  of  the  selection. 
I  have  been  much  in  society  here  this  winter,  in 
large  and  small  parties,  at  dinners  and  balls,  and  soirees, 
and  as  you  would  like  my  honest  impressions,  I  am  free 
to  say  that  my  respect  for  the  English  ladies  has  con- 
stantly been  increasing.  They  seem  to  me  extremely  well 
educated,  with  great  self-respect,  without  any  painful 
reserve,  and  in  the  middle  classes  especially,  and  among 
the  dissenters,  are  found  strong  politicians  and  very  liberal 
thinkers  in  religion.  There  is  much  less  freedom  of  discus- 
sion and  opinion  in  the  highest  classes,  where  the  religion  is 
established,  and  every  thing  taken  for  granted  ;  and  where 
so  many  considerations  of  state  mingle  with  all  the  obser- 
vances, that  the  mind  is  somewhat  fettered,  and  dares  not 
look  out  of  its  cell.  French  is  a  universal  accomplishment ; 
Italian  is  much  studied,  and  German  will  soon  be  as  regu- 
lar a  part  of  education  as  English  grammar.  Among  the 
higher  class,  education  is  wholly  domestic,  and  a  private 
governess  or  tutor  is  an  essential  part  of  the  establish- 


LETTF.R    MM.  187 

merit.  There  are  numerous  boarding  schools  for  young 
ladies,  but  they  are  not  for  the  higher  classes.  There  are 
some  things  in  English  manners,  which  have  impressed 
me  very  favorably.  I  have  scarcely  been  in  a  family 
either  of  the  middle  or  the  highest  rank,  where  domestic 
worship  has  not  been  seriously  maintained  ;  and  it  is  as 
often  conducted  by  the  lady  or  the  children  of  the  house- 
hold as  by  the  master. 

Children,  even  quite  young,  are  often  called  upon  to 
say  grace  at  table ;  and  I  dined  three  days  ago  in  a  large 
and  elegant  party  where  the  lady  of  the  house  asked  a 
blessing  and  returned  thanks.  I  was  a  week  at  one 
house  where  the  eldest  daughter  of  the  family,  about 
twenty-two,  led  in  the  family  worship  every  morning, 
and  constantly  said  grace  at  table,  and  so  in  several 
other  instances.  The  Lord's  day  is  in  most  parts  of 
London  as  well  observed  as  in  Boston,  making  an  allow- 
ance for  the  difference  in  the  size  of  the  two  cities. 

The  better  class  of  theatres,  likewise,  are  managed 
with  decorum,  and  seldom  is  any  thing  seen  within  their 
walls  offensive  to  propriety  or  good  manners.  No  strong 
drinks,  I  believe,  are  publicly  sold,  although  there  are 
always  drinking  places  in  their  neighborhood,  to  which 
resort  is  had  by  those  whose  taste  so  inclines  them,  but 
which  I  believe,  does  not,  in  general,  take  place  until 
after  the  close  of  the  performance.  The  police  are 
always  in  strong  force  at  the  theatres  and  all  public 
places  to  preserve  order. 

At  the  principal  theatres  —  the  Italian  Opera,  St. 
James's  Theatre  (for  even  the  saints  here  you  see  have 
their  play  houses,)  and  the  Hay  Market,  the  most  punc- 
tilious and  elegant  manners  are  expected.    At  the  Italian 


188         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

Opera,  every  person  in  the  pit,  as  well  as  in  the  boxes,  is 
not  merely  expected,  but  required,  to  go  in  full  dress ;  and 
the  conduct  of  the  audience  is  corresponding.  This  rule  of 
dress  is,  of  course,  absolute,  as  indeed,  it  should  be,  and  as 
all  rules  in  such  cases  should  be  ;  but  I  must  amuse  you 
with  the  determination,  brave  I  suppose  he  would  call  it,  of 
an  American  gentleman  recently  here,  a  genuine  republi- 
can, of  course.  Having  purchased  a  stall-ticket  for  the 
opera,  for  which  he  paid  a  guinea,  he  went  at  the  proper 
time,  but  was  refused  admission  because  he  had  on  a 
frock-coat.  He  expressed  his  dissatisfaction  in  strong 
terms.  The  ticket-taker  coolly  told  him  that  he  might 
go  home,  change  his  dress,  and  return.  But  he  de- 
clared the  rule  an  imposition,  and  declined  absolutely  to 
attend,  very  much,  of  course,  to  the  chagrin  and  dis- 
comfort of  the  manager,  who  had  received  his  guinea  ! 
As  large  a  proportion  of  ladies  is  found  in  the  pit  as 
in  the  boxes.  The  ballets  are  got  up  in  a  style  of  sur- 
passing magnificence  and  splendor  ;  the  music  is  of  the 
most  recherche  description  ;  and  the  dancing  as  elastic 
and  sylph-like  as  can  be  imagined.  I  cannot  speak  of 
it  with  unqualified  approval.  Within  certain  limits  it 
presents  all  the  charms  of  the  most  wonderful  cultivation 
and  grace  ;  but  beyond  certain  limits,  the  passing  of  which 
every  modest  mind  at  once  recognizes,  it  becomes  offen- 
sive and  immoral.  Every  allowance,  however,  is  to  be 
made  for  the  effect  of  habit  and  for  the  established 
customs  of  a  country.  Things,  which  present  them- 
selves to  a  stranger,  educated  under  a  different  regime 
and  standard  of  public  manners,  as  gross  and  im- 
proper, to  persons  familiar  with  such  exhibitions  they 
lose  their  offensiveness,  and   are   regarded  with  indiffer- 


LETTER    LIV.  189 

ence.  I  passed  an  hour  one  evening,  as  a  spectator,  at 
a  masked  ball  given  in  Covent-Garden  Theatre,  where 
the  pit  of  this  great  building  was  floored  over  and  devo- 
ted to  dancing  and  display.  The  show  was,  as  far  as 
dress  was  concerned,  most  grotesque  and  amusing ;  but 
there  was  a  great  deal  to  disgust  and  ofiend ;  and  the 
condition  of  things,  at  the  close  of  the  evening,  left  one 
at  no  loss  as  to  the  character  and  description  of  people 
who  attended,  and  showed  but  too  strongly,  to  what 
shameful  license  and  excess  persons  may  be  carried,  when, 
by  their  disguise,  they  avoid  all  fear  of  recognition. 

Accept  this  only  as  an  apology  for  a  letter  and  sort  of 
bribe  upon  your  kindness.     Ask  my   agreeable   friend 

A why  I  may  not  expect  the  honor  of  hearing  from 

her  by  fair  hand.  Fail  not,  at  your  peril,  as  the  lawyers 
say,  to  make  my  most  dutiful  and  kind  remembrance  to 
all  the  saints,  and  in  the  plenitude  of  your  kindness  have 
more  mercy  upon  a  poor  exile  who  sighs  for  his  native 
land,  and  regards  the  handwriting  of  a  friend  as  a  special 
deodand.     Yours  ever. 


LETTER  LIV. 

London,  3d  May,  1844. 
My  Dear  S : 

I   WROTE  yesterday  a  huiTied   letter,  because  I  was 

under  the  erroneous  impression  that  yesterday  was  the 

last  day  for  the  steamer.     I  really  have  little  to  add,  but 

think  another  letter  will  not  be  unacceptable.     Where 

my  heart  goes,  my  pen  is  very  apt  to  follow. 


190  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

To-day  is  one  of  the  finest  that  ever  shone.  The 
spring  is  very  far  advanced,  and  the  town  perfectly 
swarms  with  human  Hfe.  Directly  in  front  of  my  win- 
dow, where  I  now  sit  writing,  and  in  front  of  the  gallery 
of  the  Royal  Academy,  an  immense  crowd  is  assem- 
bled to  witness  the  visit  of  the  Queen,  who  goes  in  state 
to  have  the  first  look  at  the  pictures  of  the  gallery,  which 
is  to  be  opened  to  the  public  next  week.  You  cannot 
conceive  the  interest  which  is  felt  to  see  this  little  lady  ; 
whenever  she  goes  abroad,  whether  to  ride  in  the  park, 
to  attend  the  theatre,  or  to  get  into  a  railroad  car.  In  all 
such  cases  a  covered  passage-way,  carpeted  with  red 
cloth,  is  made  for  her,  extending  to  her  carriage,  so  that 
under  any  circumstances,  it  is  only  a  peep  that  any  one 
can  get ;  and  yet  for  this,  thousands  upon  thousands  of 
people  are  always  to  be  found,  ready  to  go  and  stand 
patiently  waiting  for  hours.  I  have  seen  her  repeatedly. 
Her  appearance  is  extremely  pleasing,  with  occasional 
indications,  as  I  have  fancied,  of  anxiety  and  timidity. 

On  her  birth-day,  last  Thursday,  she  held  a  drawing- 
room,  which  was  considered  as  extraordinarily  brilliant. 
Indeed,  the  dresses  went  very  far  beyond  any  imagina- 
tion which  I  had  before  had  of  elegance  and  splendor. 
I  stood  where  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  company 
pass  in,  and  of  speaking  to  many  of  them  whom  I  knew. 
It  would  be  idle  for  me  to  attempt  any  description  of 
them.  Some  of  the  silks  were  exceedingly  magnificent, 
and  when  I  saw  these  birds  of  paradise,  decked  out  in 
these  elegancies,  I  could  not  help  thinking  what  an  im- 
portant part  in  human  affairs  is  played  by  the  little  silk- 
worm, and  how  much  he  contributes  to  human  vanity 
and  pride.     The  profusion  of  jewels  and  diamonds  worn 


LETTER    HV.  191 

by  some  persons  rendered  them  quite  dazzlinjf ;  but  to 
my  taste,  the  ladies  who  appeared  best,  and  who  really 
attracted  most  admiration,  were  those  who  were  dressed 
with  the  greatest  simplicity  and  the  fewest  colors. 

The  scene  was  quite  a  gay  one.  On  this  day  the  sol- 
diers always  appear  in  new  uniforms,  the  servants  in  full 
livery  with  large  bouquets,  and  the  postmen  likewise 
through  -the  town,  of  whom  I  presume  there  are  several 
hundreds,  are  also  furnished  with  new  suits  of  clothes, 
such  as  bright  red  coats,  &f c,  he.  Where,  in  this  case, 
all  the  money  comes  from,  and  all  the  jewels  come  from, 
it  is  rather  difficult  to  imagine.  The  trains  of  the  ladies' 
dresses  were  gorgeously  long,  but  not  borne  by  pages,  as 
was  formerly  the  case ;  this  privilege  being,  I  believe,  at 
present,  exclusive  to  royalty.  The  dresses  of  the  ladies 
advanced  in  life,  seemed  to  my  unpractised  eye  in  very 
bad  taste.  The  dresses  of  the  young  women  seemed 
more  appropriate  to  their  age,  showing  the  bust  or  figure 
to  great  advantage. 

It  has  always  appeared  to  me  among  the  greatest  of 
inconsistencies,  that  a  style  of  undress,  which  would  not 
be  tolerated  for  a  moment  in  a  private  parlor,  is  yet  not 
deemed  extravagant  or  improper  in  a  public  drawing- 
room.  However,  custom  seems  to  settle  the  propriety 
of  every  thing  of  that  nature,  and  the  standard  is  evi- 
dently somewhat  different  here,  from  what  it  is  with  us. 
I  bow  to  fashion  as  the  proper  arbiter  in  these  matters. 

The  dress  of  the  ladies  here,  in  general  society,  is 
altogether  more  elegant  than  with  us,  and  to  me  it  is 
matter  of  constant  and  increasing  admiration ;  and  I 
must  add  that  a  longer  acquaintance  convinces  me  that 
they  are  better  educated  than  the  majority  of  the  same 
class  amongst  ourselves. 


192        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

The  publication  of  my  book  here  will  give  me  great 
advantages  in  visiting  the  country,  as  several  gentle- 
men, now  seeing  what  I  want,  say  they  shall  be  most 
happy  to  assist  me  ;  and  especially,  I  am  persuaded, 
feeling  that  I  do  not  come  as  a  spy,  and  shall  not  deal 
in  miserable  personalities,  they  will  assist  me  so  much 
the  more  readily. 

Mrs.  P goes  home  by  the  steamer  of  the  19th. 

By  her  I  shall  write  as  many  letters  as  I  can,  but  I  cannot 

promise  to  write  once  a  fortnight  to  any  but  ,  as  my 

correspondence  here  is  not  small.     Adieu. 


LETTER   LV. 

London,  16th  May,  1844. 
My  Dear  Sir: 

I  AM  very  sorry   to  learn   from  that  you  have 

been  ill  ;  but  really  from   the  account  we  have  had  of 

your   winter,    I    somewhat    wonder  that  anybody    can 

be  well.     I  have  lately  had  given  to  me  a  small  medical 

work,  which  I  design  to  send  you,  the  first  opportunity, 

on  the  importance  of  always   keeping  warm,  and   not 

suffering  the  temperature  of  the  body  to  get  low.     The 

writer  professes  himself  to  have  been  an  invalid,  and  to 

speak  from  experience  of  the  advantages  of  the  system, 

which  he   recommends,  and   I   am  inclined    to  receive 

his  notions  as  most  valuable.     He  does  not  recommend 

very  hot  rooms,  but  the  necessity  of  avoiding  cold,  and 

always,  as  far  as  possible,  maintaining  the  natural  heat 

of  the  body.     The  recommendation  is  certainly  reason- 


LETTER    LV.  193 

able,  and  from  the  way  in  which  you  suffer  so  often  from 
colds,  let  me  recommend  it  to  your  attention. 

By  this  packet  I  send  you  the  Times  of  the  14th  inst., 
because  it  contains  two  speeches  in  which  I  know  you 
will  be  much  interested.  The  first  is  that  of  Lord 
Brougham  on  the  reformation  or  modification  of  the 
criminal  law  of  England,  which  is  full  of  most  surpris- 
ing information,  and  shows  in  a  remarkable  manner  the 
confusion  in  which  this  subject  is  involved,  and  how 
difficult,  nay,  impossible  it  is  for  a  man  always  to  know 
whether  he  is  doing  right  or  wrong.  He  says  that  there 
are  many  cases  in  which  neither  he  nor  his  noble  friend, 
Lord  Lyndhurst,  the  Lord  Chancellor  of  the  kingdom, 
can  know  whether  they  are  committing  an  offence  or 
not.  Such  is  the  glorious  uncertainty  of  the  law.  The 
other  is  the  speech  of  Sir  Robert  Peel  on  the  reduction 
of  the  hours  of  labor  in  the  factories,  which  I  am  per- 
suaded you  will  read  with  interest.  Indeed,  when  either 
of  these  gentlemen  speak,  they  are  always  wqrth  hear- 
ing. Lord  Brougham  is  rather  out  of  favor  with  all  par- 
ties, and  is  so  constantly  the  subject  of  ridicule  and  car- 
icature in  Punch,  that  he  has  very  little  of  the  respect 
or  rather  of  the  reverence  of  the  public  ;  but  his  immense 
ability  and  various  learning  are  universally  acknow- 
ledged and  command  attention.  Sir  Robert  Peel  is  cer- 
tainly a  most  accomplished  statesman.  His  private  char- 
acter is  above  all  reproach,  and  though  he  is  extremely 
obnoxious  to  his  political  opponents,  yet  no  man  is 
listened  to  by  all  parties  with  more  respect  for  his 
extraordinary  talents  and  his  knowledge  and  sagacity. 
I  wished  to  have  sent  you  at  the  same  time  his  profound 
speech  upon  the  currency,  but,  unfortunately,  the  paper 
17 


194  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

is  not  now  attainable ;  and  if  I  could  get  it  I  could  not 
now  send  it,  for,  by  a  singular  and  unaccountable  rule, 
no  paper  over  a  week  old  is  allowed  to  be  sent  by  post ; 
though,  if  it  is  put  in  before  a  week  from  its  publication, 
it  will  be  forwarded. 

I  was  last  week  in  the  House  of  Commons  during  the 
debate  on  the  factory  question  until  very  early  in  the 
morning.  By  great  courtesy  I  had  a  seat  in  the  Peers' 
Gallery,  and  this  gave  me  a  most  favorable  opportunity 
of  hearing  the  speakers.  There  is,  of  course,  in  point 
of  talent,  or,  in  what  is  here  called  cleverness,  the  same 
variety  that  you  find  among  individuals  everywhere  ;  but 
if  is  quite  evident  that  the  members  are  picked  men  and 
gentlemen ;  and  the  decorum  which  they  manifest  in 
their  deportment  towards  each  other  is  very  striking,  and 
would  be  worthy  of  imitation  in  other  places. 

I  was  quite  disturbed  when  I  learnt  that  a  treaty  for 
the  annexation  of  Texas  was  actually  concluded.  No 
event  could  I  think  more  certainly  endanger  the  Union, 
and  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  few  events  would  more  gratify 
many  people  here  than  the  dissolution  of  the  American 
Republic,  and  the  defeat  of  the  great  experiment  of  an 
elective  government. 

I  should  be  anxious  to  return  home,  if  there  were  any 
use  in  being  so ;  yet  I  should  be  most  ungrateful  not  to 
be  happy  in  the  unvaried  and  constantly  increasing  kind- 
ness which  I  receive  here. 


LETTER    LVI.  19' 


LETTER   LVI. 

TO    A    YOUNG    FRIEND. 

London,  16th  May,  1844. 
My  Dear  C : 

I  SHOULD  find  it  very  difficult  to  make  you  understand 
how  much  pleasure  it  gives  me   to  hear  of  your  good 

conduct,  and  the  satisfaction  which  Mr.  B expresses 

in  your  character,  manners,  and  attention  to  business. 
Suffer  nothing,  my  dear  child,  to  divert  you  from  this 
course,  and  remember  that  nothing  is  to  be  put  in  com- 
parison with  a  good  character.  No  money  can  represent 
its  value,  and  no  man  can  take  it  from  you  without  your 
consent ;  the  highest  blessing  and  the  best  power  which 
a  good  mind  can  covet,  or  possess  in  this  world,  is 
that  of  making  others  happy.  You  have  that  power 
in  your  hands,  to  be  used  at  your  pleasure  ;  for  how 
happy  can  you  make  your  friends  by  continuing  to  be, 
what  they  desire  you  should  be,  and  by  maintaining  always 
a  character  above  reproach. 

I  had  wished  to  have  given  you  a  long  letter,  but  it  is 
now  nearly  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  a  short  one 
will  be  as  much  as  a  long  one,  what  I  mainly  wish  it 
should  be,  an  assurance  of  my  strong  affection  for  you, 
and  my  deep  interest  in  your  welfare.  Remember  that 
the  highest  characteristics  of  a  good  merchant,  are  honor, 
honesty,  and  punctuality  ;  and  though  wealth  has  its 
value,  and  the  object  of  mercantile  life  is  the  acquisition 
of  wealth,  that  it  is  infinitely  more  important  to  be  honest, 
than  to  be  rich,  and  to  maintain  the  integrity  and  satisfac- 


196         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

tion  of  your  own  heart  and  conscience,  than  to  have  the 
riches  of  the  Indies. 

The  picture,  at  the  head  of  my  sheet,  shows  an  exam- 
ple of  some  of  the  amusements  which  prevail  here.  It 
is  designed  to  represent  a  rowing  match,  among  the 
students  at  Oxford.  I  have  seen  more  than  one  of  these 
rowing  matches  on  the  Thames,  called  here  a  regatta, 
and  they  are  quite  as  exciting  as  a  horse-race,  and 
vastly  more  agreeable,  because  the  latter  is  too  often  a 
severe  cruelty  to  a  noble  animal,  and  generally  accom- 
panied with  corrupting  dissipations. 

I  wish  gymnastic  games  and  exercises  were  much 
more  in  use  in  our  own  country  than  they  are ;  but  in 
this  respect  we  are  quite  prosaic  and  dull.  Here  there 
are  cricket  matches,  bowling  matches,  wrestling  matches, 
foot-races  and  a  variety  of  other  athletic  sports,  which 
are  extremely  conducive  to  animal  vigor  and  health,  and 
in  almost  a  corresponding  degree  to  mental  energy. 

Do  write  me  occasionally,  and  tell  me  if  there  is  any 
thing  you  want  here,  which  I  can  send  you.  Remem- 
ber that  you  are  my  son  as  well  as  your  father's ;  that 
every  thing  which  concerns  you  concerns  me  ;  and  that 
you  cannot  make  me  more  happy  than  by  being  a  good 
man  and  maintaining  a  high  character  for  integrity, 
truth,  punctuality,  and  every  generous  and  manly  virtue. 
May  God  bless  you. 


LETTER    LVIl.  197 

LETTER   LVII. 

London,  IGtli  May,  IS-M. 
My  Dear  A : 

Many  thanks  for  your  kind  letter  received  by  the 
steamer,  and  many  thanks  to  Heaven  that  it  assures  me 
of  your  heahh,  and  the  continued  health  and  happiness 
of  your  husband  and  children.     Do  keep  young,  and  do 

you   and   E be  girls  together  as  long  as  you  can. 

N before  this,  has,  I  suppose,  received  his  fox's 

head  ;  and  if  the  eyes  look  as  sharply  at  him,  as  they 
did  at  me,  I  hope  he  will  not  be  frightened.  I  felt  a 
good  deal  troubled  when  I  looked  him  in  the  face,  to 
think  that  I  had  been  accessory  to  his  murder,  and  that 
I  found  any  pleasure  in  that  which  was  only  fear  and 
misery  and  death  to  him. 

I  have  been  this  week  to  Oxford,  and  send  you  a 
view  of  the  main  street,  considered  the  most  elegant 
street  in  England,  lined  though  it  is,  with  the  rear  side 
of  several  of  the  Colleges,  which  front  toward  the 
quadrangle  or  inner  court.  The  buildings  are  very 
dark,  and  the  stones  of  which  they  are  built  greatly 
corroded  by  time  ;  they  are  likewise  extremely  grand 
and  venerable ;  too  much  crowded  together ;  but  two  or 
three  of  them  have  large  gardens  and  play-grounds 
attached.  The  town  itself  is  remarkably  clean  and 
well  built,  and  its  appearance  better  than  that  of 
Cambridge,  although  the  grounds  are  not  so  well  laid 
out,  nor  so  extensive. 

I  went  on  Monday,  and  returned  on   Wednesday,  by 
17* 


198         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS, 

invitation  from  Drs.  Daubeny  and  Buckland,  the  former, 
the  professor  of  Botany  and  Agriculture,  the  latter,  of 
Geology.  The  former  delivered  two  agricultural  lectures 
while  I  was  there,  in  which  I  was  much  interested. 
The  libraries  are  immense.  The  Bodleian  Library,  by 
much  the  largest  in  England,  contains  more  than  four 
hundred  thousand  volumes  ;  and  there  are  a  great  many 
other  libraries  connected  with  the  colleges,  containing 
very  large  collections  of  books.  Nothing  ever  humbled 
me  more  than  such  an  amount  of  books.  Here  are  the 
products  of  toiling  hands  and  aching  heads,  of  indefati- 
gable labor,  and  of  many  a  watchful  and  painful  night. 
Here  are  the  labors  of  the  most  brilliant  and  learned 
minds,  who,  when  they  gave  their  productions  to  the 
world,  felt,  beyond  a  doubt,  an  extreme  solicitude  as 
to  the  reception  they  should  meet  with,  and  thought 
that  their  works  were  at  once  to  affect  the  great 
interests  of  society  and  the  destinies  of  mankind  ;  and 
who,  if  the  poor  printer  made  a  slight  typographical 
error,  were  rendered  uneasy  and  miserable.  Here  now 
are  their  labors  stowed  away  on  shelves,  never  again  to 
be  touched,  and  covered  with  cobwebs  and  dust,  their 
names  even  having  escaped  the  recollection  of  men. 
How  foolish,  then,  how  exquisitely  silly,  is  all  human 
vanity  and  self-conceit ! 

At  Oxford  I  dined  on  Monday  evening,  with  Professor 
Daubeny,  and  a  large  and  elegant  party  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen ;  and  on  Tuesday,  with  another  large  party, 
at  Doctor  Buckland's  ;  every  thing  in  the  most  elegant 
style  ;  all  the  gentlemen  connected  with  the  University 
appearing  in  their  caps  and  gowns  and  bands,  which 
some  of  them  took  off  as  thev  went  to  dine,  but  which 


LETTER    LViri.  199 

several  of  them  retained.  Where  1  dined  last  even- 
ing, (at  eight  o'clock ! )  was  the  Lord  Bishop  of 
Exeter,  who  appeared,  as  is  usual,  not  in  his  gown, 
but  with  a  long  black  silk  apron  extending  from  his 
chin  down  below  his  knees,  and  a  three-cornered  hat, 
which  he  keeps  in  his  hand,  and  puts  under  the  table 
while  at  dinner. 


LETTER    LVIIL 

London,  IGth  May,  1841. 
My  Dear  S : 

So  you  are  going  to  live  at  Lynn  this  summer  ;  but 
why  did  you  not  tell  me  in  what  part  of  the  town,  and  in 
what  house  ?  Now  let  me  know,  especially  as  you 
seem  to  be  going  largely  into  the  agricultural  line. 

I  returned  yesterday  from  Oxford,  where  I  N\ent  on 
Monday  —  fifty-four  miles  from  London.  I  went  by 
coach,  because  no  railroad  goes  nearer  than  ten  miles ; 
and,  after  all,  a  seat  upon  the  top  of  an  English  stage- 
coach, especially  near  the  driver,  is  a  most  agreeable  mode 
of  getting  along.  The  country  is,  for  the  greater  part  of 
the  distance,  perfectly  level,  with  the  exception  of  a  range 
of  chalk  hills,  which  here  are  called  high,  but  of  which  we 
certainly  should  think  nothing.  It  is  really  amusing  to 
find  the  driver  always  getting  off,  at  even  such  a  hill  as 
that  from  South  Salem  into  town,  and  locking  the 
wheels  ;  but  their  caution  in  this  respect  is  extreme,  and 

certainly  would    be    very   comfortable    to    .     Our 

road,  for  a  long  way,  was  through  very  neat  villages, 


200         EUROPRAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

examples  of  the  most  extraordinary  cleanliness,  and  by- 
cottages    highly    picturesque,    and    covered    with    ivy, 
or    roses,    or    honeysuckles.       The    season    was    never 
finer,  though  the  country  is  now  beginning  to  suffer  from 
want  of  rain,  as  we  have  had  nothing  but  sunshine  since 
the  first  of  April,  not  even   a   single  rainy  day.      On 
Tuesday,  a   gentleman  of  Oxford,  Mr.  Warne,  kindly 
took  me  to  see  Blenheim,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Marl- 
borough, about  seven  miles   from  Oxford,  and  quite  a 
show  place.     I  have  seen  nothing  in  England  upon  such 
a  scale  of  magnificence  ;  as  it  was,  in  fact,  built  by  the 
nation,  as  a  present  to  the  great  warrior,  the  Duke  of 
Marlborough.     What  would  have  most  pleased  you  was 
the    picture    gallery,   or    rather   rooms,   filled   with   the 
original  works  of  some  of  the  great  masters  —  Rubens, 
Titian,  Vandyck,  and  Carlo  Dolce  —  said  to  be  among 
the  richest  known.     Indeed,  you  may  form  some  idea  of 
the  estimation  in  which  the  pictures  are  held,  when  I 
tell  you,  that  for  one  of  them  twelve  thousand  guineas 
have  been  offered  by  a  picture  dealer,  and  for  another. 
Napoleon    offered    thirty    thousand    guineas,    and    yet 
neither  of  these  is  the  most  valuable  picture  in  the  col- 
lection.    The  gem  of   the  M'hole   is   a    picture   of   the 
Virgin,  a   Madonna,  by  Carlo    Dolce,  than    which,  in 
truth,    (excepting  the  Ma7i  of  Sorrows,  which    I    saw 
at  the  Marquis    of   Exeter's,  and  which   I   before    de- 
scribed to  you,)  I  can  conceive  of  no  higher  perfection 
to    which    the    art  can  be   carried.     The  hand  of  the 
Virgin,  which  is  open  and  extended,  seems  indeed  as 
though  it  could  be  clasped.     I  confess  I  had  no  idea  of 
the   power  of  the  art,  until  I  saw  the  works  of  these 
great  masters,     Rubens's  coloring  is  exquisite ;  Titian's, 


LETTER    LVIir.  201 

is  equally  beautiful  and  extraordinary,  but  his  sub- 
jects, with  many  persons,  would  be  deemed  exception- 
able, though,  in  this  respect,  fashion,  on  this  side  of 
the  water,  seems  to  make  no  subjects  exceptionable. 
The  library  consists  here  of  thirty  thousand  volumes, 
arid  the  room  is  one  hundred  and  eighty-three  feet  in 
length.  I  returned  to  Oxford  highly  gratified  with  ray 
visit,  and  only  wish  I  could  give  you  a  satisfactory 
account  of  it. 

It  would  be  very  difficult  to  exaggerate  the  beauty  of 
this  place,  and  the  friend  who  was  with  me,  and  was 
always,  after  an  Irish  fashion,  complimenting  me  on  the 
enthusiasm  of  my  admiration,  found  the  mercury  in  his 
own  tube  at  the  boiling  point.  The  expenditure  here  was, 
no  doubt,  enormous.  The  splendid  and  most  elaborate 
monument  to  the  great  Duke  in  the  chapel  of  the 
palace,  the  small  but  beautiful  stone  bridge  in  front  of 
the  house,  and  the  fluted  column,  surmounted  with  a 
colossal  statue  of  the  Duke,  which  stands  at  the  distance 
of  a  mile  in  front  of  the  house,  are  said  to  have  cost  his 
Duchess,  who  caused  them  to  be  erected,  no  less  a  sum 
than  £78,000  sterling,  or  three  hundred  and  ninety 
thousand  dollars. 

But,  when  we  consider  the  amount  of  gratification 
which  such  productions  and  works  of  art  afford,  and  for 
centuries  to  come  will  continue  to  impart ;  the  stimulus 
which  they  give  to  inventive  genius  ;  and  their  use  and 
influence  in  refining  the  public  taste,  hardly  any  expendi- 
ture—  since  the  money  is  not  thrown  away,  but  only 
distributed  —  will  be  deemed  excessive. 

The  park  embraces  twenty-seven  hundred  acres,  and  is 
open  to  the  public.     The  private  gardens  embrace  sixty 


202  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

acres,  though  they  seemed  to  me  to  be  much  larger. 
After  visiting  many  of  the  finest  places  in  England,  I 
have  seen,  as  yet,  nothing  v/hich  surpasses  these  in 
beauty.  An  artificial  lake  of  large  size  bounds  them  on 
one  side,  through  their  whole  length.  The  grounds  which 
form  them  are  undulating  and  pleasingly  varied.  The 
whole  formation  and  laying  out  of  the  grounds  are  the 
work  of  consummate  art ;  and  yet  this  art  is  concealed, 
and  natural  objects  of  transcendent  beauty  appear  to 
rise  before  you  in  a  perfectly  natural  order ;  here  a 
smooth-shaven  knoll,  there  a  tufted  summit  covered  with 
trees  of  the  richest  foliage ;  here  an  open  velvet  lawn, 
and  there  a  matted  copse  or  thicket ;  winding  paths, 
secluded  grottoes,  bubbling  springs,  and  cascades  glitter- 
ing in  the  sun,  and  fountains  sending  their  waters  into 
the  air,  and  coming  down  in  showers  of  brilliants ;  rustic 
bridges,  and  seats  covered  with  moss,  with  backs  made 
of  intertwined  and  fantastic  roots ;  an  almost  infinite 
variety  of  trees,  and  plants,  and  shrubs,  furnishing  a 
variety  as  diversified  of  foliage  and  flowers,  —  all  com- 
bine to  form  another  Eden,  and  to  give  substance  and 
life  to  the  richest  visions  of  poetry. 

When  I  speak  of  the  gratification  and  pleasure  which 
such  places  impart,  I  beg  to  state  a  fact  which  will 
strongly  illustrate  it.  In  a  petition  to  Parliament,  show- 
ing the  necessity  or  public  utility  of  a  railroad  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Chatsworth,  the  celebrated  seat  of  the 
Duke  of  Devonshire,  it  was  stated,  as  an  ascertained 
fact,  that  not  less  than  eighty  thousand  persons  visited 
it  in  the  course  of  the  year.  Perhaps  scarcely  a  less 
number  visit  Blenheim,  though  the  terms  of  admission 
here  are  rather  more  difficult  and  stringent. 


LETTKH    LVm.  203 

I  have  often  heard  it  complained  of,  that  fees  are  to  be 
given  for  visiting  these  places,  but,  in  my  opinion,  wholly 
without  reason.  At  Blenheim  and  Studley  Parks  the 
fees  are  fixed ;  at  Chatsworth,  and  at  most  places,  they 
are  left  optional  with  the  visiter,  though  as  confidently 
expected  as  in  the  former  cases.  To  public  places,  such 
as  Westminster  Abbey  and  St.  Paul's,  in  my  opinion, 
visiters  should  be  freely  admitted,  under  certain  regula- 
tions, as  is  the  case  at  the  British  Museum.  But  I  see 
no  reason  why  the  public  should  claim  to  be  admitted 
to  the  private  residence  of  any  gentleman,  and  it  seems 
to  me  an  act  of  great  courtesy,  on  his  part,  to  admit 
them  upon  any  terms.  The  public  have  so  long  enjoyed 
the  privilege  of  admission,  that  they  seem  to  claim  it  as 
a  right ;  but,  obviously,  the  permission  must  be  wholly 
gi-atuitous  on  the  part  of  the  proprietor. 

It  seems  indispensable  that  some  fee  should  be  re- 
quired, or,  otherwise,  in  many  cases,  he  would  be  wholly 
overrun,  and  could  have  no  quiet.  What  fee  shall 
be  demanded,  and  what  use  he  will  make  of  the  money 
when  received,  are  his  own  affair,  and,  certainly,  no 
affair  of  the  public.  However  large  the  amount  received 
in  any  instance  may  be,  it  does  not  affect  the  individual 
visiter,  upon  whom  the  assessment  is  always  compara- 
tively small,  and  for  which,  as  far  as  my  experience 
goes,  he  receives  a  most  abundant  equivalent.  I  can- 
not help  thinking,  likewise,  that,  in  this  case,  a  liberal 
and  just  mind  will  feel  grateful  that  he  is  permitted  to 
see  these  things,  even  upon  these  terms,  and  happy  in 
some  measure  to  compensate  the  civilities  of  those  who 
wait  upon  him. 

The  exhibition  of  the  Royal  Academy  is  now  open. 


204         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNEBS. 

but  the  pictures,  amounting  to  many  hundreds,  are  so 
numerous  as  absolutely  to  confound  you.  As  a  portrait 
painter,  Healey,  a  Bostonian,  is  greatly  esteemed,  in  the 
exhibition,  for  the  truth  of  his  likenesses  ;  but  Landseer 
seems  acknowledged  by  all  to  bear  the  palm,  and,  in  his 
"Shoeing  of  a  Horse,"  has  given  life  to  the  canvass. 
He  paints  animals  vastly  better  than  men.     Adieu. 


LETTER   LIX. 

London,  17th  May,  1844. 
My  Deae  R : 

A  SHORT  letter  will,  I  trust,  be  better  than  none,  and 
if  it  merely  conveys  an  assurance  of  my  constant  regard, 
will  not,  I  hope,  be  unacceptable.  First  of  all  then,  I 
hope  you,  poor  icicle  as  you  are,  have  survived  the 
winter,  which,  from  the  reports  that  have  reached  this 
side  of  the  water,  must  have  been  of  unexampled  severity. 
Here,  scarcely  a  cold  day  has  been  felt.  It  is  admitted 
here,  that  the  mildness  of  this  winter  has  been  extraor- 
dinary ;  but  Mr.  Everett,  who  has  now  passed  three 
winters  here,  speaks  of  the  remarkable  comfort  of  this 
climate.  The  spring,  too,  has  been  beautiful.  April  has 
been  uninterruptedly  good  weather,  and  while,  during  the 
last  spring,  my  umbrella  and  great  coat  were  in  constant 
requisition,  this  season  I  have  scarcely  had  an  occasion 
to  use  them.  There  is  another  circumstance  here,  which 
gives  to  this  season  of  the  year  a  peculiar  brilliancy,  and 
that  is,  the  almost  universal  cultivation  of  flowers. 
Wherever  the  condition  is  raised  above  the  very  lowest, 


LETTER    LIX.  205 

there  you  see  displayed  a  taste  for  floral  culture  ;  and 
so  strong  is  this  passion;  that  you  see  persons  of  all 
conditions  sticking  flowers  in  their  button-holes,  or  wear- 
ing them  in  their  hats,  or  carrying  them  in  their  hands. 
On  the  day  of  the  Queen's  drawing-room,  very  few  of 
the  ladies  appeared  without  a  magnificent  bouquet,  and 
all  the  coachmen  and  footmen  of  the  nobility,  wore 
splendid  favors  in  their  bosoms.  I  like  this.  I  like  to 
see  the  world  beautiful,  and  by  every  appliance  of  art  and 
taste  I  would  render  it  more  beautiful.  I  would  not  have 
life  a  dull,  black,  turbid  stream,  winding  its  slow  and 
silent  way  along,  but  I  would  have  the  waters  glittering 
with  sunshine  by  day,  and  reflecting  from  their  clear 
bosom  the  stars  of  night,  and  pursuing  their  course  some- 
times quickly,  at  other  times  more  slowly,  now  whirl- 
ing in  eddies,  now  dashing  in  beautiful  cascades,  pre- 
senting that  variety  which  awakens  and  stimulates  all 
the  faculties,  keeps  the  imagination  continually  upon  the 
stretch,  and  thus  directly  and  essentially  conduces  to 
the  vigor  and  health  of  the  mind  and  heart.  Now  take 
breath,  and  perhaps  you  had  better  take  something  else, 
after  such  a  flourish  of  mine  upon  stilts,  especially,  so 
early  in  the  morning  as  seven  o'clock. 

I  suppose  now,  you  are  full  of  occupation,  in  fitting 
up  your  new-old  house.  There  you  have  a  spacious 
garden,  which  was  once,  I  know,  in  fine  order,  but 
which,  I  suppose,  has  been  suffered  to  fall  into  decay. 
You  must  put  it  in  prime  order  once  more,  against  I 
have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  it,  if  ever  such  a  felicity  is 
to  fall  to  my  lot  again. 

To-morrow  is  the  grand  fete  at  Chiswick,  where  all 
the  world  of  fashion  goes  to  the  exhibition  of  fruits  and 
J8 


206  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

flowers  ;  and  the  lilies  and  birds  of  the  air,  "  who  toil  not, 
neither  do  they  spin"  appear  in  all  their  glory.  It  is 
considered  a  great  occasion  for  dress,  and  I  am  sure  my 
eyes  have  hardly  recovered  from  the  dazzling  brilliancy 
of  last  year's  display,  when,  in  truth,  I  never  saw  dresses 
so  splendid. 

I  am  imagining  now,  that  in  America  you  are  full  of 
politics,  and  that  after  the  Baltimore  Convention,  nothing 
will  be  heard  but  Tippecanoe.  Pray  get  in  honest  men, 
who  do  not  want  to  extend  your  already  far  too  wide 
territory,  and  especially,  to  spread  wider  and  wider  the 
dreadful  institution  of  human  slavery.  Above  all  things, 
if  you  have  any  regard  for  the  reputation  of  the  country, 
do  not  send  any  more  men  to  Congress,  who  choose  to 
settle  their  quarrels  by  fisticuffs  instead  of  arguments, 
upon  the  floor  of  the  house.  I  can  hardly  tell  you  how 
much  mortification  we  peaceable  Americans  suffer,  when 
such  displays  are  paraded  and  emblazoned  in  all  the 
English  papers.  Let  me  hear  from  you  a  little  oftener 
if  you  please,  and  give  me  a  little  more  gossip  of  the 
town,  for  I  have  always  considered  you  as  a  sort  of 
Village  Gazette,  knowing  every  thing  that  is  going  on, 
and  presenting  it  always  in  a  manner  most  animated  and 
agreeable,  and  in  the  highest  style  of  poetical  embellish- 
ment.    Adieu. 


LETTER    r.x.  207 

LETTER    LX. 

London,-  17t!i  May,  1844. 
My  Dear  Sir: 

I  THOUGHT,  it  not  impossible  that  you  would  like  to 
adorn  some  vacant  page  in  your  Historical  Work,  with 
the  picture  of  the  monument  erected  a  few  years  ago  in 
Oxford,  in  honor  of  Cranmer,  Latimer,  and  Ridley,  who 
were  burnt  at  the  stake  in  what  is  called,  (what  a 
frightful  and  sad  misnomer  !  )  religious  persecution.  It 
has  been  recently  built,  of  a  white,  or  rather  light 
colored  stone,  and  is  eminently  beautiful.  I  cannot 
tell  you  its  exact  dimensions,  but  I  have  seen  nothing 
in  England  more  tasteful  or  handsomer,  and  when  look- 
ing at  it,  I  could  not  help  wishing  the  erectors  of  the 
Bunker  Hill  obelisk  could  have  had  more  wisdom  in  the 
design  which  they  adopted,  and  then  they  would  not 
have  been  compelled  to  sell  the  land  around  the  base  of 
their  structure  for  house  lots,  instead  of  leaving  it  for 
a  distant  posterity,  as  consecrated  ground.  The  two 
great  monuments  in  London,  that  to  the  Duke  of  York 
in  Waterloo  Place,  and  that  to  Lord  Nelson,  now 
before  my  eyes,  in  Trafalgar  Square,  are  in  the  same 
bad  taste  as  the  Bunker  Hill  monument,  and  are  by  no 
means,  especially  the  former,  pleasing  objects.  In  this 
respect,  the  Scotch  have  been  much  wiser,  and  the 
monument  to  Sir  Weaker  Scott,  of  which  I  think  I  sent 
you  a  print,  is  remarkably  beautiful.  So  it  must  he,  for 
everybody  says  so,  and  I  believe  in  spite  of  all  the 
refinements    and    fastidiousness    of  criticism,  what    the 


208         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

public  taste,  of  the  ignorant  as  well  as  the  learned,  the 
vulgar  and  the  cultivated,  pronounce  well-proportioned 
and  beautiful,  must  be  considered  as  conformed  to 
a  true  standard. 

I  am  happy  to  hear  you  like  my  present,  and  please 

tell   A ,  that  the  comparison  of  the  poor  man's 

fare  with  the  feast  at  Derby,  has  not,  I  believe,  given 
offence,  but  with  most  persons  has  been  thought  to 
afford  a  useful,  moral  lesson.  This  is  exactly  the 
object  for  which  I  designed  it. 

I  have  not  yet  visited  Mrs.  L 's  garden,  nor  have 

I  been  able  to  learn  much  about  it.  Chiswick  is  the 
great  place  of  resort,  and  the  Horticultural  Society  give 
a  grand  fete  there  on  Saturday,  to-morrow.  You  may 
judge  how  select  they  choose  to  have  the  company, 
when  I  tell  you  that  five  shillings,  more  than  a  dollar, 
are  required  for  a  ticket  of  admission  before  the  day  of 
the  show,  and  seven-and-sixpence  on  that  day,  if  you 
purchase  your  ticket  at  the  gate,  and  no  free  tickets  are 
given  to  anybody,  nor  can  a  ticket  be  purchased  without 
the  recommendation  of  a  member. 


LETTER  LXI. 

London,  17tli  May,  1S44. 

TO    A    BOY. 
Dear  E : 

I  HOPE  the  fox's  head  reached  you  in  safety,  and  that 
you  was  not  frightened,  when  you  opened  the  box,  to  see 
him  staring  you  in  the  face,  as  I  have  no  doubt  he  would 


LKTTER    lAI. 


209 


with  his  eyes  wide  open  if  you  stood  in  front  of  liim. 
He  quite  startled  me,  when  one  day  I  returned  from  the 
country,  to  see  his  glaring  eyes  looking  me  out  of  counte- 
nance, at  the  tea-table.  Poor  fellow  !  he  had  a  very  good 
right  to  look  hardly  at  me  and  all  others  who  were  accessory 
to  his  cruel  murder,  which  seemed  to  be  aggravated  by 
being  perpetrated  in  wanton  sport.  In  some  points  of 
view  man  is  not  a  very  respectable  animal,  since  he  makes 
war  continually  upon  the  animals  below  him,  tormenting 
them  in  a  great  variety  of  ways,  stripping  off  their  skins  for 
his  clothing,  tearing  the  muscles  from  their  bones  for  his 
food,  killing  them  from  mere  wantonness  and  pleasure, 
and  more  than  that,  training  some  of  them  to  prey  upon 
each  other,  and  making  it  a  particular  art  and  business 
to  stimulate  the  passions  and  naturally  ferocious  appetites 
of  some  of  them  to  worry  and  destroy  others.  Then, 
after  all  this,  he  has  the  presumption  to  call  himself  a 
man,  as  though  he  would  be  thought  humane.  Out !  I 
say  upon  such  impudence  —  certainly  he  must  have  a 
long  account  to  settle  in  the  end  with  many  of  the  brute 
creation. 

I  am  delighted  to  hear  of  the  progress  of  your  muse- 
um, and  I  send   you   a  picture  of  Blenheim   Castle  to 

adorn  its  walls.     Show  it  to to  whom  I  gave  some 

account  of  my  visit  there.  It  was  erected  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  nation  as  a  present  to  the  great  Duke  of 
Marlborough,  a  distinguished  soldier,  who  was  an  extraor- 
dinary beast  of  prey,  and  killed  and  destroyed  as  many 
human  beings  as  common  hunters  do  foxes  and  rabbits, 
and  pheasants  and  partridges  ;  and  there  was  scarcely  a 
limit  to  the  cottages  which  he  burnt  down,  the  towns  he 
made  desolate,  and  the  women  whom  he  made  widows. 
18* 


210         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

and  the  children  whom  lie  made  fatherless,  and  the 
floods  of  tears  he  caused  to  flow,  and  the  human  hearts 
he  crushed  with  unutterable  agony.  And  this,  men  call 
glory,  and  this.  Christians,  professing  a  religion  of  peace, 
honor  and  applaud,  and  in  praise  of  it,  erect  splendid 
monuments,  and  in  reward  of  it,  build  and  endow  palaces. 
I  pray  to  God  that  the  world  may  presently  learn  better, 
and  abjure  war  as  an  unmitigated  curse  and  crime,  and 
cultivate  only  the  arts  of  peace,  and  study  how  they 
can  make  each  other  happier. 

As  a  work  of  art,  however,  the  palace  is  most  mag- 
nificent, and  is  crowded  with  pictures  and  statues,  of  the 
beauty  of  which,  and  the  genius  displayed  in  them,  no 
language  of  praise  seems  to  me  would  be  an  exaggera- 
tion. 

Now  my  dear  N ,  tell  me  if  there  is  any  thing  I  can 

get  for  you  here.  I  '11  do  my  best.  In  making  a  museum, 
seek  more  than  any  thing  else  for  natural  curiosities,  and 
study  the  history  and  properties  of  them,  so  that  when 
you  show  them  and  are  asked  any  questions,  you  may 
be  able  fully  to  explain  them. 


LETTER    LXII. 

London,  ISth  June,  1844.    56  Charing  Cross. 
My  Dear  A : 

I  WROTE  this  morning,  but  did  not  know  then  that  I 
should  have  another  opportunity,  but  I  have  got  two 
or  three  hours'  reprieve,  and  surely  I  will  not  fail  to 
acknowledge  your  two  kind  letters.     I  will  not  say  how 


LETTER    LXII.  211 

much  they  are  worth  to  me  ;  that  would  not  be  so  easy. 
Even  a  scrap  of  paper,  traced  with  the  name  of  one  I  love, 
is  precious  to  me  ;  but  a  letter  coming  so  many  thousand 
miles,  full  of  grateful  intelligence,  and  beaming  with  affec- 
tion, is  an   affair  not  to  be  estimated   by  any  pecuniary 

standard.     I  have  likewise  to  thank  INIr.  D for  his 

kind  letters,  I  am  often  thinking  of  the  beauties  of  Elfin- 
glen,  and  if  I  could  get  hold  of  what  I  know  you  think 

the  prettiest  flower  in   it,   little  G ,  I  am  afraid   I 

should  break  the  stem  or  the  leaves,  or  do  some  other 
grievous  harm. 

I  hardly  know  what  to  say  to  you  about  England.  I 
have  not  certainly  said  all  I  might,  but  then  it  is  difficult 
to  make  a  selection  of  such  topics  as  would  be  interest- 
ing to  you.  Last  week,  then,  I  went  to  one  of  the  great 
breweries,  the  long  famous  establishment  of  Whitbread, 
which  has  been  known  all  the  world  over.  A  gentleman, 
one  of  the  largest  maltsters  in  England,  agreed  to  show  me 
the  brew-house,  and  explain  the  whole  process  ;  so  I 
gave  notice  to  some  American  friends,  and  they  to  some 
others,  and  lo  !  twenty  Americans,  gentlemen  and  ladies, 
met  at  my  room,  and  on  we  went  to  the  very  great  ad- 
miration of  the  people  at  the  brewery.  The  place  was 
well  worth  visiting.  It  covers  several  acres.  It  has 
eight  steam  boilers,  and  vats  and  casks  innumera- 
ble ;  but  what  most  surprised  us  was  eight  large  vats 
made  to  hold  two  thousand  barrels  apiece.  The  over- 
seer told  us  that  they  could  make  one  thousand  barrels  of 
beer  per  day  when  in  full  work.  There  is  one  brewery 
still  larger  than  this,  which  I  am  to  see  before  I  leave 
England. 

A  few  days  since  I  went  to  see  the  great  review  given 


212  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

at  Windsor  to  the  Emperor  of  Russia.  The  review  was 
a  splendid  affair.  There  were  seven  thousand  troops, 
and  as  to  the  carriages  and  conveyances,  and  people  of 
all  descriptions,  they  were  altogether  past  enumeration. 
Military  reviews  are  not  much  to  my  taste.  I  abhor  war 
and  don't  at  all  like  the  trade  of  a  soldier,  the  trade  of 
human  butchery.  However,  a  holiday  muster  is  a  very 
pretty  affair.  You  will  be  surprised  when  I  tell  you 
there  was  not  a  booth  upon  the  ground,  nor  near  it,  and 
the  only  place  of  refreshment  which  I  saw,  was  that  of 
one  man  selling  soda-water,  oranges,  and  ginger-beer. 
At  horse-racings  things  are  differently  managed  ;  but  the 
police  are  in  such  numbers  that  there  is  no  confusion,  or 
disturbance,  or  quarrelling. 

On  Saturday  last  I  went  to  the  fete  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  at  Chiswick.  The  terms  of  ad- 
mission here  are  made  difficult,  so  that  the  company  may 
be  select.  Chiswick  is  seven  miles  from  London.  It  is 
a  matter  of  etiquette  for  the  ladies  to  go  in  full  and 
elegant  dress.  There  were  more  than  fifteen  thousand 
people  in  the  gardens,  and  four  bands  of  music,  and  as 
to  the  carriages,  there  were  not  only  acres,  but  miles  of 
them.  I  went  in  a  public  conveyance,  and  when  we 
reached  the  first  carriage  in  the  line,  waiting  for  its  turn 
to  drive  up  and  set  down  its  company,  at  the  gate,  we 
were  then  nearly  three  miles  from  the  place.  But  they 
must  all  wait  their  turn,  as  the  police  would  not  let  one 
go  before  the  other.  It  is  impossible  for  me  to  tell  you 
how  beautiful  the  flowers  and  fruits  were,  and  still  more 
how  beautiful  the  ladies  were.     Adieu. 


LETTER    LXIII.  213 


LETTER    LXIII. 

Camberwell,  near  London,  30th  June,  1844. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  SHALL  not  get  my  letters  till  to-mon'o\v,  as  no  letters 
are  ever  delivered  here  on  Sunday.  I  think  well,  upon 
the  whole,  of  this  arrangement.  I  do  not  believe  that  the 
people  here  are  in  truth  more  religious  than  with  us  ;  but, 
unless  in  cases  of  war,  or  some  dreadful  epidemic,  or 
other  great  emergency,  it  is  certainly  well,  well  for  the 
physical  and  moral  health  of  the  community,  that  there 
should  be  a  suspension  of  labor,  a  pause  in  that  tre- 
mendous, rushing,  and  tumbling  current  of  business, 
toil,  and  pleasure,  by  which  the  great  mass  of  the  com- 
munity are  hurried  on,  especially  in  commercial  and 
luxurious  cities,  with  an  impetuosity,  scarcely  conceiv- 
able to  those  who  have  not  actually  witnessed  it,  and 
which  leaves  little  or  no  time  for  men  to  commune  with 
themselves,  and  settle  their  accounts  with  their  own  con- 
sciences and  souls.  Into  what  disorder  and  confusion 
these  accounts,  without  such  occasional  settlement,  are 
liable  to  get,  and  how  often,  and  how  near,  under  such 
circumstances,  men  approach  insolvency  and  moral 
bankruptcy,  it  does  not  require  much  observation  or 
experience  to  determine.  Sunday  is,  upon  the  whole, 
well  observed  in  London,  and,  considering  that  its  popu- 
lation reaches  two  millions,  and  embraces  every  grade 
and  kind  of  person,  character,  and  condition,  its  observ- 
ance would  not  lose  in  comparison  with  that  in  Boston. 


'214  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

This  is  particularly  the  case  in  the  forenoon,  when  the 
churches  are  well  filled.  No  shops  are  open,  excepting 
here  and  there  a  few  Jews'  shops.  Some  confectioners' 
shops  and  cigar  shops  are  half  open,  and  there  are  always 
butchers'  stalls,  in  the  market-places  of  those  parts  of  the 
town  where  the  poor  principally  reside,  open  until  church 
time.  The  beer  and  drinking  shops  are  not  open  until  after 
church  is  out,  and  then  they  mainly  serve  to  supply  fami- 
lies, who  depend  on  them  for  their  beer  for  dinner,  as 
scarcely  any  family  ever  keeps  a  supply  of  its  own.  There 
is  not  a  great  deal  of  riding  about  the  town,  excepting  the 
omnibuses,  which  carry  people  to  and  from  church  ;  but 
after  church,  in  the  afternoon,  vast  numbers  of  people 
take  long  walks  out  of  town,  to  the  tea-gardens  and 
taverns,  or  go  different  excursions  in  the  innumerable 
boats,  which  ply  continually  upon  the  Thames ;  and 
between  five  and  seven,  Hyde  Park  is  thronged  with  the 
nobility,  in  splendid  equipages,  and  hundreds  of  gentle- 
men and  ladies  on  horseback,  and  thousands  of  well- 
dressed  people  on  foot,  in  the  gardens,  and  walks,  and 
parks ;  but  there  is  nowhere  any  disorder  or  offensive 
conduct,  and  the  Sunday  passes  ofT  as  quietly  as  it 
would  in  one  of  the  towns  on  Connecticut  River.  I 
hold,  as  you  know,  to  no  Jewish  sabbath,  and  to  no 
peculiar  sacredness  in  one  day  above  another,  but  in  the 
suspension  of  the  business  and  hurry  of  life,  in  the 
habits  of  cleanliness  which  it  induces,  in  the  relaxation 
of  toil,  which  it  brings  with  it,  to  the  laboring  classes, 
in  the  simple  pleasures,  which,  where  rationally  observed, 
in  my  opinion,  it  should  both  permit  and  encourage,  and 
in  its  religious  instructions  and  observances,  I  consider  it 
an  institution  in  the  highest  measure  conducive  to  com- 


LETTER    LXIV.  215 

fort,  good  order,  private  and  public  morals,  and  the 
general  maintenance  of  a  sense  of  religion  in  the  world, 
which,  I  fear,  without  these  external  observances,  would 
become  absolutely  extinct Adieu. 


LETTER    LXIV. 

Edinburgh,  1st  August,  1843. 
My  Deak  Sik: 

This  city  has  not  quite  met  my  expectations,  and  yet 
I  can  scarcely  say  why.  It  is  certainly  far  less  of  a 
business  place  than  I  expected.  I  looked  for  a  place  of 
considerable  commerce  and  trade,  but  it  really  has  none, 
and  Leith,  the  harbor,  is  a  very  small  concern,  with  the 
exception  of  the  improvements  of  the  Duke  of  Buc- 
cleuch,  which  are  of  the  most  expensive,  substantial, 
and,  I  may  add,  magnificent  description.  The  new 
city  is  built  with  great  elegance,  but  a  great  many  of 
the  houses  are  marked  "  To  let,"  and  "  Lodgings " 
appears  in  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  houses  in  the 
best  parts  of  the  city,  which  certainly  indicates  any 
thing  but  wealth.  The  old  city,  especially  the  lowest 
streets,  which,  as  you  cross  the  bridges  in  the  old  town, 
present  a  very  odd  appearance,  at  least  a  hundred  feet 
below  where  you  stand,  is  perfectly  odious  and  detest- 
able, a  compound  of  degradation  and  nastiness  —  for  no 
other  word  in  the  English  language  will  meet  the  case 
—  which  I  think  cannot  be  surpassed  ;  but  the  new  town 
is  clean  and  most  elegant.  The  hills  in  the  vicinity  are 
remarkably  picturesque,  and  the  views  from  the  Castle 


216         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

and  the  monuments  are  eminently  striking  and  splendid. 
The  inhabitants  seem  to  me  to  be  mainly  professional 
men  or  retired  gentlemen,  and  in  no  place  in  the 
country,  scarcely  in  London,  have  I  seen  so  many  and  so 
well-filled  bookstores.  I  shall  remain  here,  at  least,  a 
week,  making  a  day's  trip  to  Glasgow  in  that  time,  for 
recreation,  writing,  and  inquiry,  and  shall  quit  Scotland 
for  this  year  with  the  current  month.  I  shall  then  go 
into  the  southern  counties  until  winter,  as  Scotland 
demands  a  tour  by  itself. 

The  agriculture,  in  this  part  of  Scotland,  seems  to  me 
in  a  much  higher  condition  than  in  England,  though  I 
am  told  that,  in  the  north,  the  country  and  the  cultivation 
are  alike  poor.  You  will  be  surprised,  when  I  tell  you  that 
I  find  very  great  difficulty  in  understanding  the  language, 
but  not  more  than  the  English  themselves.  The  sound 
of  broad  Scotch  very  much  resembles  the  French,  and 
it  is  spoken  with  equal  rapidity.  "  I  dinna  ken "  has 
become  quite  familiar ;  sair,  and  muckle,  and  puir,  are 
likewise  intelligible ;  gate  means  way ;  and  when  1 
inquired,  in  Dundee,  for  Scouring-Burn,  and  further 
asked  the  young  girl,  who  informed  me  the  way,  what 
Burn  meant,  she  replied,  "  Tut,  mun  !  Tut,  mun  !  "  I 
naturally  inferred  this  was  the  same  as  to  say,  "  You  are 
a  goose  for  asking ; "  and  when  I  inquired  of  a  child,  who 
was  carrying  along  a  pailful  of  potatoe  skins,  what  they 
were  for,  and  she  told  me  it  was  "  weans'  mate,"  I  was 
quite  at  a  loss,  until  another  person  told  me  it  was 
"  weans'  meat,"  that  is,  food  for  children.  So  I  get 
along,  and  am  not  certain  that  I  shall  not  speak  toler- 
able Scotch  myself,  in  the  course  of  a  week,  for  I  find 
among  these  people  I  am  quite  forgetting  my  English 
and  my  grammar. 


LETTKR    LXIV.  217 

The  great  matter  of  excitement  here,  at  this  time,  is 
the  church  rebelHon,  or  rather  secession.  The  courts  of 
law  have  decided  in  the  main,  with  certain  exceptions, 
that  where  the  right  of  presentation  to  a  society  is  held, 
the  patron  may  present  whom  he  pleases  as  their 
minister,  and  the  church  has  no  right  to  object,  excepting 
"  for  life,  literature,  or  learning."  The  church  claim  the 
right  of  objecting  and  rejecting  in  any  case,  without  an 
appeal  to  the  Presbytery.  The  government  refusing  to 
budge  in  this  case,  four  hundred  ministers  at  once 
renounced  their  livings,  and  the  established  churches  are 
comparatively  deserted,  and  new  houses  for  the  seceding 
ministers  are  springing  up  in  all  directions.  In  the 
meantime,  societies  worship  in  halls,  schoolhouses,  mills, 
and  in  the  open  air.  I  think  they  would  be  doing  a 
much  more  noble  act  of  religion,  if,  instead  of  venting 
their  passion  in  this  way,  they  would  spend  much  of 
their  zeal,  and  some  of  their  money,  in  providing  for 
their  poor,  and  giving  them  decent  places  to  live  in ; 
and  tear  down,  by  hundreds,  the  most  filthy  and  odious 
habitations,  into  which  human  beings  were  ever  crowded. 
But  to  talk  to  a  fanatic,  or  a  sectarian,  is  like  talking  to 
the  wind. 

What  with  the  Scotch  Church,  and  the  Irish  question, 
and  the  Turn-out  at  Ashton,  and  the  Rebecca  riots  in 
Wales,  and  the  corn  law  agitation,  and  the  distresses  at 
the  collieries,  the  labors  of  the  government  are  not 
without  their  perplexities,  and  the  prospects  are  some- 
what threatening.  The  government  are  safe  while  they 
are  secure  of  the  army,  but  any  disaffection  here,  and  it 
would  all  be  over  with  them. 

I  shall  impatiently  expect  my  letters  to-morrow, 
19 


218        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS, 

hoping  they  will  bring  me  favorable  accounts  from  the 
places  and  objects  over  which,  though  the  broad  and 
deep  ocean  rolls  between  us,  my  heart  and  my  imagina- 
tion are  continually  hovering. 


LETTER    LXV. 

West  Slratton,  Hampshire  County,  28th  July,  1844. 
My  Dear  A : 

I  do  n't  owe  you  a  letter,  but  I  want  to  owe  you 
one  as  soon  as  possible.  I  anticipate  the  packet  day, 
for  I  shall  be  on  the  wing  to-morrow,  and  shall  not 
ahght  again  before  the  packet  is  off. 

Here  I  am,  upon  a  visit  to  my  old  pupil,  Mrs. 
Mackintosh,  who  certainly  had  no  faults  when  a  child, 
and  does  not  appear  to  have  acquired  any  since  she 
became  a  woman  and  a  wife,  with  two  little  blue-eyed, 
flaxen-haired  children  —  I  am  not  certain  there  are  not 
three.  This  is  about  fifty  miles  from  London,  and  two 
hours'  ride  thence  by  rail ;  for  here  they  talk  of  riding 
upon  rails,  a  matter  which,  in  the  United  States,  is 
understood  in  a  very  different  sense.  Her  house  is  a 
mile  and  a  half  from  the  station,  where  I  found  a 
conveyance  waiting  for  me  on  my  arrival.  They  live 
in  what  is  here  called  a  cottage,  that  is,  a  good  sized 
house,  with  a  piazza  or  verandah  on  three  sides,  covered 
with  vines  and  flowers,  and  embosomed  in  trees,  with  a 
good  garden  and  six  acres  of  land,  adjoining  a  village 
consisting  of  about  six  thatched  cottages,  and  one  farm- 


LETTER    LXV.  219 

house.  The  whole  style  of  the  place  is  neat  and 
pretty,  with  very  little  show  or  expense,  but  much 
of  comfort.  They  knew  I  was  about  to  attend  the 
great  agricultural  meeting  at  Southampton,  so  they 
were  kind  enough  to  invite  me  to  visit  them  on  my 
way.  I  remain  here  over  to-day,  and  shall  proceed 
to-morrow  to  the  Isle  of  Wight,  where,  I  am  in- 
formed, there  is  much  to  interest  me  ;  thence  to  East- 
bourne, near  Brighton,  to  see  four  hundred  allotment 
tenants ;  thence  to  Tunbridge  and  Seven  Oaks,  to  see 
the  hop  cultivation  in  Kent ;  thence  to  London,  to  finish 
the  printing  of  my  Second  Report ;  thence  to  Dublin, 
to  attend  a  meeting  of  the  Irish  Agricultural  Society,  at 
the  invitation  of  the  Marquis  of  Downshire,  and  after- 
wards to  his  place ;  but,  beyond  that,  I  cannot  now 
write  you  my  destination.  My  gratifications  increase  as 
I  go  on,  and  new  objects  of  curiosity  and  instruction  are 
constantly  presenting  themselves.  My  great  regret  is, 
that  I  have  not  more  time,  more  powers  of  observing, 
and  more  leisure  and  ability  to  record  my  observations, 
and  to  fix  the  impressions,  as  they  pass  before  my  eye 
and  over  my  mind.  I  am  certain  that,  in  order  to 
travel  to  the  best  advantage,  a  man  ought  to  devote 
twenty  years,  at  least,  to  an  almost  exclusive  preparation 
for  this  object.  However,  I  will  do  what  I  can.  Some 
little  experience,  some  practical  knowledge,  and  some 
habits  of  observation  may  assist  me,  and  I  beg  of  you 
not  to  be  discouraged  about  what  appears  the  slow 
progress  of  my  work.  As  no  person,  who  has  not  been  on 
the  field  of  battle,  can  always  judge  correctly  of  the  move- 
ments of  an  army,  nor  understand  why  they  do  not 
advance  in  this  direction,  and  deploy  in  that,  and  why 


220  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

they  bivouac  here  or  attack  there,  and  why,  especially, 
by  some  desperate  effort,  they  do  not  bring  the  contest 
to  a  conclusion,  so  it  is  equally  difficult  for  you  to  see 
and  understand  all  the  circumstances  which  either  accel- 
erate, retard,  or  modify  the  execution  of  my  enterprise. 

I  left  London  on  Tuesday  for  Southampton,  where  I 
have  been  attending  the  great  agricultural  meeting,  I 
may  say,  of  the  world ;  and  the  show  of  implements, 
and  the  pens  of  cattle,  horses,  sheep,  and  swine,  and  the 
crowd  of  men  and  women,  gentlemen  and  ladies,  and 
the  show  inside  the  yard,  and  the  fair,  and  the  strolling 
theatres  outside,  have  altogether  presented  a  most  extra- 
ordinary spectacle.  I  met  Dr.  Howe  on  the  ground  one 
day,  and  several  other  Americans.  Indeed,  I  think  that 
there  is  not  a  civilized  nation  on  the  globe  which  was 
not  represented  there.  We  had  two  great  dinners  ;  one 
on  Wednesday,  of  seven  hundred  ;  one  on  Thursday,  of 
twelve  or  fourteen  hundred,  and  a  great  many  speeches, 
in  which  I  took  good  care,  by  a  previous  letter  to  the 
Duke  of  Richmond,  7iot  to  be  called  upon  to  participate. 
My  voice  is  too  low  ;  and  I  have  always  found  that  as 
soon  as  one  concerns  himself  about  the  difficulty  of  be- 
ing heard,  and  is  compelled  to  raise  his  voice  above  the 
natural  pitch,  he  loses  the  recollection  of  his  subject,  and 
fails  always  of  satisfying  himself,  and  consequently  of  sat- 
isfying others.  I  received  every  attention  I  could  ask  for. 
Lord  Hatherton  came  to  me  in  the  most  cordial  manner, 
and  desired  me  on  my  return  to  London  to  go  directly 
to  his  house  and  take  possession  as  long  as  I  pleased.  I 
should  find  servants  and  every  thing  I  wanted  ;  and, 
should  I  visit  Staffordshire,  he  wished  I  would  go  to 
Teddesly   Park   and   make   my  home  there  as   long  as 


LETTER    LXV.  221 

suited  my  convenience  ;  he  only  regretted  that  he  and 
Lady  Hatherton  would  be  necessarily  absent,  trav^elling 
with  a  sick  daughter.  Was  not  that  very  kind  ?  But 
this  is  only  a  sample  of  the  kindness  which  is. constantly 
shown  me.  I  have  now  at  least  twenty,  and  I  believe 
much  nearer  fifty  invitations  to  visit  in  the  country,  and  not 
to  call,  but  to  stay.  But  I  think  the  visit  of  Friday  evening 
was  the  most  agreeable  circumstance  of  this  occasion. 
Earl  Hardwicke,  whom  I  met  at  Southampton,  near 
which  he  has  a  marine  villa  and  a  yacht,  one  of  the 
prettiest  spots  I  have  yet  seen,  directly  upon  the  shore 
opposite  the  Isle  of  Wight,  came  kindly  to  invite  me  to 
dine  with  him  on  Friday  evening,  and  promised  to  intro- 
duce me  to  Col.  Le  Couteur,  from  the  Island  of  Jersey, 
of  which  he  is,  I  believe,  the  governor.  He  is  one  of 
the  most  eminent  agriculturists  in  the  country.  Accord- 
ingly, I  staid  over  Friday  night ;  Friday  was  the  last 
day  of  the  show.  I  went  with  Col.  Le  Couteur  to  Syd- 
ney Lodge.  Lord  Hardwicke  had  been  detained  beyond 
the  hour,  owing  to  the  wind,  but  his  Lady  came  in  as 
soon  as  we  arrived,  with  five  elegantly  dressed  and  as 
pretty  children  as  I  ever  saw  —  one  in  the  nurse's  arms 
—  and  the  four  showing,  as  she  made  them  stand  up  in 
line,  a  beautiful  gradation  of  age. 

It  is  impossible  to  have  had  a  more  elegant  and  agree- 
able visit.  We  met  several  intelligent  and  interesting 
people  ;  the  conversation  was  full  of  wit  and  humor, 
upon  miscellaneous  topics,  many  of  a  practical  nature, 
upon  which  the  ladies  seemed  to  be  quite  as  much  at 
home  as  the  gentlemen.  For  here,  to  their  honor,  many 
ladies  of  the  highest  rank  take  a  deep  interest  both  in 
19* 


222  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

agriculture  and  politics.  I  shall  not  speak  more  particu- 
larly of  my  noble  host  and  hostess,  but  I  have  never  in 
my  life  been  more  impressed  with  the  charm  which  the 
highest  elegance  of  manners,  joined  with  the  most  unaf- 
fected good  humor  and  desire  to  make  those  around  you 
happy,  throws  over  the  intercourse  of  refined  life. 

I  walked  two  miles  to  church  this  morning  with  Mr. 
Mackintosh.  This  county  is  one  of  the  most  agreeable 
parts  of  England,  and  I  have  nowhere  seen  the  dwell- 
ings of  the  laborers  looking  half  so  well,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  Chatsworth  and  one  or  two  other  places.  The 
three  villages  in  the  neighborhood  belong  to  Sir  Thomas 
Baring,  a  man  of  immense  wealth,  who  has  done  all  he 
could  to  make  his  people  comfortable.  The  church  and 
congregation  were  among  the  neatest  which  I  have 
seen ;  and  you  would  be  surprised  to  see  all  the  farm 
laborers  in  the  congregation  wearing  their  long  frocks,  as 
white  as  snow,  and  occupying  the  centre  of  the  church, 
the  gentry  being  at  the  side.  The  minister  seemed  a 
man  of  good  sense,  and  adapted  his  discourse,  which 
was  quite  practical,  to  his  hearers. 

I  have  not  much  to  say  to  you  about  London,  where 
I  shall  not  return  to  stay,  for  some  time.  I  believe, 
since  I  wrote  you,  I  have  been  at  an  elegant  party  at  Mr. 
Everett's,  of  seventy  Americans.  We  were  not  expected 
until  ten  o'clock.  I  went  about  a  quarter-to-eleven  and 
left  at  half-past-twelve,  and  then  had  to  walk  six  miles, 
which  took  me  until  two  o'clock  in  the  morning.  I  did 
not  get  back  to  Southampton  from  Sydney  Lodge,  the 
other  evening,  until  one  o'clock,  which  was  quite  too  late 
either  for  my  health  or  comfort.    These  late  hours  do  not 


LKTTKR    LXVI.  22^3 

suit  me.  Col.  Le  Couteur  urges  me  to  visit  him  on  my 
way  to  France,  and  promises  me  an  Alderney  heifer  to 
take  home.  I  do  not  know  what  better  present  he  could 
make  me.     Adieu. 


LETTER   LXVI. 

London,  29lli  July,  1844. 
My  Dear  R : 

You  are  so  fastidious  that  I  scarcely  know  how  I  am 
to  weave  any  thing  out  of  my  poor  brains  that  shall  find 
favor  in  your  eyes ;  and  it  seems  strange  to  me,  that  as 
you  grow  older,  you  do  not  grow  better.  Of  that,  how- 
ever, I  suppose  one  may  well  despair,  and  perhaps  I 
am  bound  to  think  that,  having  reached  the  zenith, 
there  is  no  rising  higher  for  you  ;  so  then,  dear  lady, 
remain  as  you  are  until  some  poor  soul  has  the  felicity 
of  taking  you  "  for  better  or  for  worse  "  —  for  worse, 
probably. 

I  must  confess  I  should  like  once  more,  with  you, 
to  gather  up  a  few  of  the  reminiscences  of  days 
gone  by.  I  should  like  to  learn  likewise  what  now 
occupies  your  care.  I  suppose  you  are  full  of  poli- 
tics, and  sure  of  your  candidate's  election.  I  am 
content.  Doubtless  the  opposite  party  will  rally  for 
a  death-struggle,  and  while  there  is  life  there  is  of 
course  hope.  For  my  part,  I  am  glad  for  a  while 
to  be  out  of  the  vortex,  and  am  sure  that  nothing 
will  again  induce  me  to  approach  the  maelstrom. 
There    is    not    always    a    great    choice    among    politi- 


224  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

cians ;  as  it  respects  most  of  them,  they  are  gener- 
ally for  themselves,  and  hut  little  for  the  country. 
An  honest,  disinterested,  and  just  man  stands  out  like 
many  of  the  patriots  of  the  revolution,  a  full  head 
and  shoulders  above  other  men.  This  race  seems 
almost  extinct,  and  perhaps  appear  only  in  times  of 
difficulty  and  danger.  I  was  glad  to  learn  that  Con- 
gress had  adjom-ned.  They  seem  at  this  distance  to 
have  done  little  for  the  country ;  and,  by  their  personal 
quarrels,  very  much  to  have  dishonored  it.  Many  of  the 
politicians  now  in  fashion  seem  to  me  among  the  very 
smallest  fish  that  swim,  and  particularly  to  delight  in 
muddy  water.  What,  with  American  slavery,  Missis- 
sippi repudiation,  the  unjustifiable  course  of  Pennsylvania 
in  regard  to  her  debts,  and  some  of  the  other  bankrupt 
states,  the  riots  in  Philadelphia,  and  the  brawls  in  Con- 
gress, American  reputation  is,  and  I  cannot  say,  undeserv- 
edly, at  a  low  ebb  in  Europe  ;  and  one  young  lady  had 
the  impudence  to  tell  me  that  Yankee  had  got  to  be  the 
synonyme  for  rogue.  To  be  sure,  she  chose  to  qualify 
her  condemnation  and  to  make  exceptions,  but  I  cannot 
say  she  mended  the  matter  much  ;  yet  it  is  very  difficult 
to  stand  up  against  some  facts  that  are  brought  out  in 
array  against  us.  I  can  truly  say  of  my  country,  as  in 
some  other  cases,  "  with  all  thy  faults  I  love  thee  still  ; " 
but  I  do  not  love  her  faults,  and  wish  I  could  see 
even  a  gleam  of  hope  that  she  would  amend  them. 
This  country  has  faults,  enormous  faults,  Heaven  knows  ; 
and  while  her  rich  and  upper  classes  are  rolling  in  a 
luxury  and  abundance  almost  without  a  parallel  in  his- 
tory, the  poor  are  suffering  from  a  poverty  and  destitu- 
tion equally  unsurpassed.     Will  matters  ever  come  right 


LETTER    LXVI.  225 

of  themselves  ?  This,  of  course,  cannot  be  hoped  ;  but 
in  the  poverty  and  destitution  and  wretchedness  of  the 
lower  classes,  and  in  the  constant  increase  of  these 
classes,  Great  Britain  must  look  to  the  future  with 
fearful  apprehension.  It  seems  a  great  evil  that  no 
government  has  ever  existed,  or  for  ought  I  see,  is  ever 
likely  to  be  found,  which  will  make  not  conquest,  not 
wealth,  not  glory  its  object,  but  the  improvement  of  the 
condition  of  the  powerless,  and  the  advancement  and 
difRision  of  general  comfort  and  happiness,  and  above  all 
the  moral  elevation  of  the  people. 

I  was  at  church  yesterday,  at  a  village  about  sixty 
miles  from  London.  For  a  rarity,  the  preaching  was 
plain,  sensible,  and  practical.  This  is  a  rarity.  The 
preaching  too  often  is  far  from  being  either  interesting 
or  instructive.  In  the  Episcopal  Church,  the  sermon  is 
considered  no  part  of  the  service  of  divine  worship,  as 
indeed  it  is  not.  Every  thing  in  this  church  is  matter  of 
prescription  and  regulation.  The  ministers  are  not  left 
at  liberty  to  speculate,  and  in  all  matters  of  faith  and 
doctrine  have  only  to  ask  what  the  church  decrees. 
They  dare  not  go  out  of  their  bounds,  even  look  over  the 
high  fence  by  which  they  are  shut  in.  A  respectable 
clergyman  of  Oxford,  sixty  years  of  age,  the  principal 
of  one  of  the  colleges  at  Oxford,  and  a  doctor  of  divinity, 
told  me  that  he  was  never  at  any  other  than  an  Episco- 
pal church,  but  once,  in  his  life.  He  must  be  an  emi- 
nently wcll-infomied  man  for  a   teacher  of  youth. 

In  London  I  more  frequently,  than  at  any  other  place, 
attend  the  French  Church,  at  St.  Martins  Le  Grand.  It 
has  an  excellent  liturgy,  and  the  preaching  is  sensible, 
serious,  and   practical.     I   sometimes  attend  Mr.  Fox's 


226  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

service.  He  has  cut  adrift  from  all  sects,  and  pretty 
nigh  from  Christianity  itself,  as  it  is  commonly  under- 
stood. It  is  not  for  me,  however,  to  judge  of  any  man's 
Christianity.  It  is  as  much  as  I  can  do,  to  take  care  of 
my  own.  He  takes  no  text,  but  discourses  upon  sub- 
jects previously  announced.  He  has  lately  been  giving 
a  course  of  lectures  upon  the  Passions.  He  is  a  man  of 
extraordinary  talent,  and  full  of  knowledge  and  of  thought. 
He  instantly  sets  your  own  mind  to  work,  and  it  is  im- 
possible not  to  attend  to  him.  His  personal  appearance 
and  manner  are  thought  to  be  against  him  ;  and  he  some- 
times seasons  his  discourse  with  jokes  or  satire,  which 
are  not  to  my  taste ;  but  with  all  these  abatements,  he 
is  usually  eloquent,  interesting,  and  instructive  ;  and  as 
to  the  music  and  singing,  at  this  place  of  worship,  it  has 
been  superior,  on  some  occasions,  to  any  thing  which  I 
have  heard,  and  is  in  itself  worth  a  voyage  across  the 
Atlantic. 

The  Unitarians  here  are  a  respectable  body,  but  the 
prejudices  which  exist  against  them  are  bitter  and  unre- 
lenting. They  have  lately  had,  however,  a  noble  tri- 
umph in  Parliament.  In  the  case  of  a  legacy  left  by 
Lady  Hewley,  many  years  ago,  which  they  have  long 
enjoyed,  their  right  was  disputed.  Unitarianism  was 
decided  by  the  highest  courts  to  be  no  form  of  Christian- 
ity, and  the  legacy  was  taken  away  from  them,  on  the 
ground  that  it  was  left  for  the  support  of  the  ministers 
of  the  Gospel,  and  they  did  not  come  under  that  denom- 
ination. Having  succeeded  in  this,  the  Orthodox  dis- 
senters next  made  an  attempt  to  get  away  all  their  chap- 
els on  much  the  same  ground.  By  a  bill  passed  this 
session,  which  has  been  most  pertinaciously  opposed  and 


LETTER    LXVII.  227 

disputed  by  the  bigots  of  all  parties,  the  Unitarians  have 
succeeded  in  having  the  possession  of  their  chapels  made 
secure  to  them.  This  is  considered  here  a  great  move- 
ment in  Catholicism. 

I  wish  you  would  write  me  oftener.  You  can  do  it 
as  Svell  as  not,  and  your  letters,  though  often  dreadfully 
malignant  and  severe,  which  I  know  you  don't  intend, 
are  always  welcome.     Adieu. 


LETTER   LXVII. 

West  Stratton,  Andover  Road,  Hampshire, 
29Ui  July,  1S44 
My  Dear  M : 

I  AM  now  at  Mr.  Mackintosh's,  fifty-six  miles  from 
London,  where  I  came  to  pass  Sunday,  and  I  shall  leave 
to-day,  or  certainly,  if  the  rain  does  not  prevent  me,  to- 
morrow morning,  for  the  Isle  of  Wight.  I  shall  not 
make  a  long  stay  there. 

I  hardly  know  what  to  communicate,  as  I  seem  to 

have  exhausted  my  whole  stock  in  my  letter  to  A . 

The  Agricultural  Show  at  Southampton  was  a  remarka- 
ble occasion.  I  met  a  number  of  Americans  on  the 
ground,  and  was  told  that  there  were  several  others 
lookuag  for  me,  but  it  was  exceedingly  difficult  to  find 
one,  unless  by  mere  accident.  There  were  a  great  many 
farmers'  wives  and  daughters,  as  well  as  a  great  many  of 
the  noblesse,  in  the  yards,  inspecting  the  implements  and 
the  cattle,  with  catalogues  in  their  hands,  and  showing 
the  remarkable  points  of  the  animals  with  as  much  skill 
and  sagacity  as  if  they  had  been  experienced  breeders 


2:28  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

of  live  stock ;  some  of  them  are,  and  also  competitors 
for  the  premiums.  One  of  the  largest  exhibitors  of 
farming  implements,  was  a  woman  who  had  succeeded 
to  her  deceased  husband's  concerns,  and  manages  a  large 
establishment  with  much  success.  The  Enghsh  women 
and  ladies,  to  their  praise  be  it  spoken,  while  they  are  as 
far  from  any  thing  indelicate  as  any  persons  I  have  seen, 
have  no  sickly  affectation  of  modesty,  and  do  not  die 
at  once  at  the  sight  either  of  a  cow  or  a  bull.  The 
show  occupied  four  days.  On  Tuesday,  was  the  trial  of 
implements  ;  on  Wednesday,  was  the  exhibition  of  im- 
plements and  machinery ;  on  Thursday,  the  exhibition 
of  cattle  and  implements ;  and  on  Friday,  the  public 
sale.  Half  a  crown  was  required  for  admission  to  the 
yards  from  Wednesday  to  Thursday  noon,  and  after  that 
a  shilling  ;  and  the  sum  received  for  admission  during 
those  days,  was  £3,000,  or  about  ,^'15,000. 

The  great  dinners  on  Wednesday  and  Thursday,  to 
which  I  was  invited  as  an  honorary  guest,  were  on  a 
large  scale.  After  the  toasts  come  on,  and  the  speech- 
es, an  English  assembly  at  such  public  dinners  becomes 
extremely  uproarious,  and  the  cheering,  or  "  hip  I  hip ! 
ha !  and  three  times  three  cheers,  and  one  cheer  more," 
is  very  disagreeable,  and  is  really  the  most  unpleasant 
feature  in  English  manners.  Custom,  however,  estab- 
lishes it,  and  any  alteration  is  not  to  be  soon  expected ; 
though  I  believe  it  is  quite  as  offensive  to  many  of  the 
English  gentlemen,  as  to  a  foreigner. 

I   am   sorry   to  tell   S that  there  were  no  dogs 

shown  for  exhibition  or  premium,  though  many  of  the 
English  are  as  proud  of  their  dogs  as  of  their  children. 
They  are  not  considered  as  agricultural  stock,  though 


LETTER    LXVII,  229 

they  are  sometimes  used  in  carts  for  drauglit.  Two 
things  I  have  wished  very  much  to  do,  since  I  have  been 

in  England  —  one,  was  to  be  able  to  send  S a  httle 

pony  and  pony-carriage,  of  which  I  have  seen  some  of 
the  prettiest  estabUshments  that  can  be  imagined,  fitted 
to  carry  two  people  ;  and,  indeed,  a  great  many  of  the 
nobility  have  them  in  their  places  in  the  country,  and 
are  often  seen  driving  them  in  Hyde  Park  ;    another,  is 

to  send  E an  Alderney  cow,  looking  like  a  gazelle, 

giving  the  richest  cream,  and  making  eight  or  ten  pounds 
of  the  most  delicious  butter  a  week,  and  just  fit  to  make 
a  pet  of  round  the  house.  I  should  like  to  add  to  this 
a  donkey  for  N and  G ;  for  at  Hyde  Park  cor- 
ner, and  at  all  the  principal  places  of  rural  resort  in  the 
neighborhood  of  London,  you  find  half  a  dozen,  and 
sometimes  twenty  or  thirty  of  these  animals,  standing 
with  side-saddles  and  chairs  on  their  backs,  for  ladies 
and  children  to  ride  upon,  a  mile  for  threepence,  and  with 
perfect  safety.  Their  knitting-needle  gait  is  always 
amusing,   and  sometimes    quite   swift.     These    are  not 

very  extravagant  desires,  you  will  admit.     If  S had 

her  pony  and  carriage,  and  Carlo  to  go  in  livery  as 
footman,  I  am  afraid  she  would  be  quite  as  difficult  of 
approach  as  the  Queen. 

The  summer  here,  they  say,  has  been  almost  unpar- 
alleled for  extreme  heat,  and  quite  equal,  I  think,  to  an 
American  summer.  I  myself  have  actually  suffered  from 
the  heat,  both  in  mind  and  body,  though  I  now  think 
the  worst  is  over.  There  is  one  circumstance  greatly  in 
favor  of  England,  and  that  is  the  almost  entire  absence 
of  mosquitoes  and  flies.  I  have  not  seen  nor  heard  a 
mosquito  since  I  have  been  here,  and  flies  are  almost  as 
20 


230         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

little  to  be  found,  though  there  have  been  more  of  them 
than  the  last  year.  They  constitute  no  troublesome 
annoyance  ;  and  do  not,  as  with  us,  cover  the  food  before 
you  can  come  to  the  table. 

This  is  a  very  fine  farming  district  where  I  now  am, 
and  Mr.  Mackintosh  invited  a  respectable  farmer,  who 
manages  seventeen  hundred  acres,  to  visit  me  last  even- 
ing, and  I  am  to  look  over  his  farm  this  morning.  This 
farmer,  though  he  manages  so  large  an  estate  and  is 
himself  a  man  of  large  property,  —  for  the  capital  required 
to  manage  such  an  estate,  is  at  least  £5  an  acre,  which 
would  be  above  $40,000,  —  told  me  that  he  never  was 
in  London  but  once,  though  he  can  go  there  m  two  and  a 
half  hours.  He  certainly  must  have  inhabitiveness 
large.     Adieu. 


LETTER  LXVm. 

Portsmouth,  1st  August,  1844. 
My  Dear  M : 

To-DAY  brought  me  your  ever  welcome  letters.  I  re- 
ceived them  at  Newport  in  the  Isle  of  Wight.  I  bless 
the  mail  every  day  of  my  life,  and  thought  myself  am- 
ply compensated  in  stopping  a  day  on  my  journey  to  get 
them. 

The  Isle  of  Wight  is  perfectly  delightful.  In  its 
general  features  it  resembles  Rhode  Island,  though  it  is 
much  more  picturesque.  I  wished  to  have  made  the  tour 
of  the  island,  but  it  would  have  cost  me  more  time  than 
I  could  afford ;  and  as  I  went,  not  for  the  picturesque, 
but  the  useful,  I  staid  only  two  nights  and   two  days. 


LETTER    LXVIII.  231 

One  of  them  was  unfortunately  taken  up  by  vain  at- 
tempts to  find  gentlemen  to  whom  I  had  letters, 
and  getting  misinformation  as  to  the  residence  of  another. 
Of  one  thing  I  am  quite  sure,  that  in  regard  to  localities, 
distances,  and  roads,  the  lower  classes  of  English  are 
much  less  informed  than  people  of  the  same  condition 
among  us  ;  for  the  reason,  I  suppose,  that  there  are 
many  more  people  and  places  here  to  be  known  and 
talked  about.  Some  of  the  people  seem  to  me  in  con- 
dition of  the  boy,  who,  being  inquired  of  where  the  road, 
on  which  the  inquirer  was  passing,  went  to,  replied,  that, 
for  his  part,  he  did  not  know  where  it  went  to.  It  was 
always  there  at  night  when  he  went  to  bed,  and  he  found 
it  in  the  same  place  when  he  got  up  in  the  morning. 

The  villages  and  cottages  on  the  Isle  of  Wight  are 
the  pleasantest  I  have  yet  seen  in  England,  and  the 
harbor  was  filled  with  gentlemen's  yachts,  on  board 
which,  they  and  their  wives  and  daughters  spend  several 
weeks  in  summer.  With  some  classes  here,  pleasure 
in  various  forms  seems  the  business  of  life,  and  never,  I 
believe,  was  there  such  an  accumulation  of  wealth  as 
in  this  country,  and  such  profusion  in  the  expenditure 
of  it  in  all  the  forms  of  luxury  and  elegant  indulgence. 
That  is  one  side  of  the  picture.  I  will  not  now  present 
the  contrast. 

Mr.  Mackintosh  took  me  over  Lord  Ashburton's  place. 
He  had  invited  me  to  visit  him,  but  was  not  at  the 
Grange,  but  at  his  marine  villa.  We  rode  eight  miles 
through  his  pleasure  grounds  in  a  direct  line,  and  I  think 
I  have  seen  nothing  more  beautiful. 

This  morning's  mail  brought  me  ten  letters  which  re- 
quire to  be  answered,  and  some  of  them  with  a  good 


232         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

deal  of  care,  and  I  have  about  fifty  more  which  I  ought 
to  write,  if  I  could  possibly  find  the  time  ;  so  you  must 
make  allowance  for  my  hurry.  I  have  received  a  friendly 
letter  from  Miss  Martineau,  wishing  me  to  come  and  see 
her  if  possible  ;  desiring  an  affectionate  remembrance 
to  you,  and  wishing  me  to  tell  you  how  grateful  she  felt 
for  your  kindness  when  she  visited  you.  Miss  Jeffrey  is 
well  married  to  a  respectable  clergyman. 

The  Duke  of  Richmond  has  kindly  sent  me  to-day 
an  autograph  of  the  late  Duke  of  Sussex  and  of  the 
Duke  of  Wellington  ;  and  Lord  Hatherton  has  enclosed 
me  letters  to  Lord  Eliot  and  others  in  Ireland,  whose 
services  he  says  he  has  bespoken  in  my  behalf. 


LETTER  LXIX. 

Portsmouth,  1st  August,  1844. 
My  Deae  S : 

To-day  brought  me  your  welcome  letter  of  the  15th, 
and  you  shall  see  how  much  I  value  it,  by  paying  for 
it  at  once.  At  the  same  time  with  your  letter  came 
one  from  the  Duke  of  Richmond,  kindly  informing  me 
that  an  engraving  of  the  Duchess  waited  my  acceptance 
in  London.  It  is  a  full  length  portrait,  and  beautifully 
done.  Now  this  shall  be  yours  if  you  will  accept  so 
elegant  a  present  in  return  for  your  letter. 

After  leaving  West  Stratton,  Mr.  Mackintosh  was 
kind  enough  to  bring  me  to  Winchester  to  see  the  Ca- 
thedral. This  is  a  magnificent  structure,  and  full  of  inter- 
esting recollections,      I   embarked   at   Southampton  for 


LETTER    LXIX.  233 

Cowes,  to  see  the  Isle  of  Wight,  reputed,  and  I  think 
with  considerable  pretensions,  the  garden  of  England. 
On  landing,  I  went  immediately  to  Newport,  the  centre 
of  the  Island  ;  but,  unfortunately,  some  of  the  persons 
to  whom  I  had  letters  were  absent,  and  others  lived  so 
rehiote,  that  I  could  not  conveniently  reach  them.  I 
made,  therefore,  the  best  use  of  yesterday  in  looking 
about  me,  and  as  it  was  market-day,  I  met  several 
farmers,  from  whom  I  got  some  information,  and  saw 
samples  of  all  the  stock  of  the  island,  and  concluded  to 
leave  this  morning.  I  arrived  here  at  eleven,  expecting 
to  proceed  immediately  to  Eastbourne,  by  way  of  Brigh- 
ton ;  but  all  the  coaches  have  gone  to  Goodwood  races, 
so  here  I  am  embargoed  until  to-morrow  morning.  Here 
is  the  great  dock-yard  of  England,  and  I  hoped  to  have 
got  sight  of  it,  and  of  the  victualling  establishment,  where 
biscuit  are  made  by  steam,  and  of  the  machinery  for 
cutting  ship-blocks  ;  but  on  presenting  my  name  at  the 
gate  as  an  American,  I  was  informed  I  could  not  be  ad- 
mitted without  a  special  order  from  the  Board  of  Admi- 
rality  in  London.  How  mean  and  silly  all  such  arrange- 
ments !  as  though  in  time  of  peace  there  was  any  neces- 
sity for  such  exclusions,  and  as  though  in  time  of  war 
they  could  possibly  keep  any  extraordinary  inventions 
to  themselves.  But  the  order  was  absolute,  and  I  was 
obliged  to  separate,  alone,  from  a  large  party  who  were 
about  to  be  admitted. 

Portsmouth  seems  to  me  one  of  the  most  disagreeable 
towns  in  England,  though  I  am  not  certain  this  very 
circumstance  has  not  served  to  prejudice  me  against  it. 
It  is  fortified  with  amazing  expense  and  strength,  and  is 
full  of  military  men,  to  whom,  abating  personal  rharar- 
•20* 


234  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

ter,  I  have  always  a  strong  dislike ;  the  profession 
in  its  very  nature  seems  to  me  so  inconsistent  with 
Christianity,  and  yet  I  am  not  prepared  to  give  up  the 
right  and  duty  of  self-defence. 

I   believe   I   wrote that  I   am  on   my   way   to 

Eastbourne,  to  see  four  hundred  allotments,  and  to  Kent 
to  see  the  cultivation  of  hops.  I  then  go  to  Dublin  to 
attend  the  Great  Cattle  Show,  to  see  the  small  farms  at 
Armagh,  and  visit  the  agricultural  schools.  Since  the 
publication  of  my  report  in  the  magazine,  the  farmers 
begin  to  know  me,  and  seem  disposed  to  communicate 
with  me,  though  it  is  not  to  be  concealed  that  they  have 
a  strong  prejudice  against  the  United  States,  and  are 
dreadfully  concerned  lest  the  introduction  of  our  agricul- 
tural produce  should  prejudice  their  interests.     Adieu. 


LETTER   LXX. 

Dublin,  15th  August,  1844. 
My  Dear  M : 

You  will  not  be  surprised  at  any  address  to  my  let- 
ters, knowing  that  I  am  now  in  a  state  of  locomotion. 
My  difficulty  is  to  preserve  my  own  personal  conscious- 
ness ;  and,  among  so  many  changes,  transitions,  lodgings, 
persons,  places,  and  objects,  to  remember  my  own  name 
and  self.  Be  sure,  however,  that  my  mind  and  heart 
constantly  revert  to  that  which  has  been  so  many  years 
the  object  of  affectionate  attraction. 

My  last  was  dated,  I  think,  at  Brighton.  After  leaving 
Brighton.  I  went  on  to  Eastbourne  to  see  some  interest- 


LETTER    LXX.  235 

ing  agricultural  experiments  of  Mrs.  Gilbert,  a  benevo- 
lent woman,  full  of  active  plans  for  doing  good,  of  which 
my  Reports  will  contain  an  account.  From  Brighton  I 
went  back  to  London,  and  from  London  I  came  to  this 
place  last  Tuesday,  to  attend  the  great  meeting  of  the 
Irish  Royal  Agricultural  Society.     In  London  I  saw,  in 

the  first  place,  Mrs.  R and  Miss  G ,  whom  I 

was   most   happy  to   meet.     Mrs.  R gave  me  to 

understand  that  she  had  a  present  from  you  to  me,  but 
as  she  seemed  not  disposed  to  give  it,  (altogether  a  piece 
of  affected  coyness  on  her  part,)  I  concluded  to  wait 
patiently  for  the  payment,  as  she  was  kind  enough  to  say 
it  would  be  upon  interest.  In  the  end,  however,  I 
found  she  was  ready  to  pay  both  principal  and  interest, 
which  I  have 'duly  received,  and  was  quite  thankful 
you  sent  it  by  so  handsome  and  agreeable  a  lady.  I 
inferred  you  sent  the  same  by  that  many  years'  fa- 
vorite of  mine.  Miss  G ,  with  her  sunshiny  face, 

so  I  took  that  without    inquiring ;    to  which  the  good 

soul  made  no  very  serious  objection.     By  Mrs.  P , 

my  old  pupil,  I  send  you  a  return  compliment,  which 
she  promises  to  deliver,  only  regretting  that  I  cannot 
have  this  matter  at  first  hands  without  passing  through 
any  intermediate  stage,  however  fragrant  it  might  be 
rendered  on  the  passage.  —  But   an   end  of  nonsense. 

Mrs. gave   me  some  letters   from  several  of  the 

family,    all    of    which    were    most    heartily    welcome. 

E 's    purse    was    very  handsome,  and    will  reach 

its  destination  as  soon  as  the  lady  returns  from  Paris. 
I  thought  the  embroidery  of  the  handkerchief,  which 
I  sent,  was  beautiful.  I  have  wished  very  much  to 
send    S a   pattern  for    an    ottoman,  of  two    dogs. 


236         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

London  now  is  almost  as  familiar  to  me  as  Boston,  but 
its  immensity  is  absolutely  overwhelming,  and  can  never 
cease  to  amaze  me. 

The  only  great  cause  of  embarrassment  is,  that  there 
is  so  much  to  be  seen  and  observed,  and  such  an  immense 
field  to  go  over,  that  I  day  by  day  go  on  discovering  how 
little  I  know,  and  how  much  ought  to  be  seen  ;  but  I 
must  do  what  I  can  in  as  short  a  time  as  possible,  as 
there  seems  to  be  the  work  of  a  life  before  me.  My 
Report,  I  learn,  has  been  published,  not  in  the  Magazine 
only,  but  almost  the  whole  of  it  in  several  of  the  provin- 
cial papers,  in  the  Bristol  papers,  Norwich  papers,  Dub- 
lin papers,  k,c.,  he. ;  but,  as  I  never  see  any  thing  but 
one  or  two  London  papers,  I  only  know  this  from  report. 
Papers  here  are  not  as  accessible  as  with  us.  The  coun- 
try and  provincial  papers  have  all  a  limited  circulation 
in  their  own  districts  ;  the  two  leading  London  papers, 
the  Times  and  the  Chronicle,  opposite  in  politics,  go  over 
the  whole  country.     They  are  altogether  political. 

While  on  this  subject,  let  me  say  a  word  of  "  The 
Times."  I  should  like,  on  some  more  convenient  occa- 
sion, to  give  you  a  full  account  of  this  extraordinary 
publication,  probably  the  most  extraordinary  of  the  kind 
in  the  world.  It  is  edited  with  unsurpassed  ability.  It 
is  reputed  to  have  a  circulation  of  more  than  thirty 
thousand,  the  greater  portion  of  which  arc  sold  at  the 
counter  of  their  publishing  office  to  the  news-venders,  an 
entirely  separate  class  of  men,  at  four  and  a  half  pence, 
or  nine  cents  apiece,  always  in  cash.  No  subscriptions  are 
ever  taken  at  the  office.  Out  of  this  sum  a  penny  is 
paid  to  the  government,  for  the  stamp. 

It  is  published  daily,  at  an  early  hour,   and   though 


LETTER    LXX.  237 

Parliament,  on  some  occasions,  does  not  adjourn  until 
two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  entire  proceedings,  and 
every  speech,  will  be  found  reported  at  full  length,  and 
with  an  exactness  almost  literal.  By  mid-day,  therefore, 
the  inhabitants  of  many  of  the  country  towns,  a  hundred 
miles  distant  from  London,  and  of  Liverpool  and  Bristol, 
more  than  two  hundred  miles  distant,  get  the  whole  of 
this  information  of  the  proceedings  of  the  preceding 
night. 

The  advertising  in  the  Times  is  a  source  of  immense 
income,  as  an  advertisement  is  paid  for  at  the  same  price 
for  every  insertion^  and  not  as  with  us  by  a  gradually 
diminished  scale,  on  repetition. 

Eight  times  out  of  nine,  the  Times  publishes  a  supple- 
ment, and  very  frequently  two  supplements,  almost 
exclusively  devoted  to  advertisements.  The  charge  for 
advertising  is  always  considerable,  though  there  is  includ- 
ed a  heavy  duty  to  the  government.  Each  column  of 
advertisements,  after  the  duty  to  the  government  is  de- 
ducted, may  be  expected  to  pay  at  least  twelve  pounds 
sterling,  or  say  sixty  dollars.  Now,  in  counting  the 
columns  in  the  Times,  with  its  two  supplements,  which 
lays  before  me,  I  find  seventy-six  columns  of  advertise- 
ments. This  would  be  £  912,  or  .f  4,560,  for  the  ad- 
vertisements in  this  single  paper ;  now  two-thirds  of  this 
sum,  say  for  three  hundred  days,  would  be  ^  912,000. 
Add  to  this,  the  proceeds  of  twenty-five  thousand  papers 
sold,  after  allowing  the  government  tax,  which  would  be 
$1,750  per  day,  and  would  be,  by  the  year,  $  .546,000, 
making  a  total  of  the  receipts  for  a  single  newspaper  estab- 
lishment, of  $1,458,000.     What  do  you  say  to  this? 

The  expenses  are  of  course  enormous,  and  the  estab- 


238  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

lishment  is  kept  up  in  a  suitable  style,  maintaining  cor- 
respondents in  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  several  editors 
upon  the  most  liberal  scale ;  sparing  no  expense  what- 
ever to  secure  the  earliest,  the  fullest,  and  the  most 
authentic  information,  on  every  interesting  and  important 
subject,  relating  to  any  country  and  every  part  of  the 
world  ;  and  commanding  always,  in  their  editors  and 
correspondents,  the  talents  of  men  of  the  highest  ability 
and  education,  and  rejecting  always,  without  perusal, 
every  communication  which  has  not  a  responsible  name. 
I  came  from  London  to  Liverpool  in  a  day,  twelve 
hours ;  entered  on  board  the  Dublin  steamer  at  nine  o'clock 
in  the  evening,  and  reached  Dublin  the  next  day  at  half- 
past  two.  The  passage  was  very  rough,  and  sick  enough 
was  I,  with  many  miserable  souls  to  keep  me  company. 
I  detest  the  very  sight  and  smell  of  a  vessel,  and  really 
begin  to  look  forward  with  a  good  many  misgivings  to 
the  recrossing  of  the  Atlantic.  I  have  found  a  great  many 
persons  here  disposed  to  pay  me  every  attention.  I  have 
had  two  very  pressing  invitations  to  make  my  home  with 
persons  to  whom  I  brought  letters,  but  having  engaged 
excellent  lodgings,  I  thought  best  not  to  remove,  but 
with  one  exception  have  engaged  to  breakfast  and  dine 
out  every  day  while  I  remain.  The  Irish  are  a  very 
hearty  people,  full  of  humor  and  generosity.  Dublin  is 
a  magnificent  city  in  respect  to  its  public  buildings ;  but 
desolation  and  solitude  mark  all  its  public  places.  A 
thick  cloud  of  superstition  hangs  over  the  minds  of  the 
people,  and  the  objects  of  misery  that  constantly  meet 
you,  are  frightful  in  the  extreme.  The  contrasts  here,  as 
in  London,  are  most  painful.  I  did  not  attend  the  two 
public  dinners  ;   the  Marquis  of  Downshire,  the  Presi- 


LETTEK    LXXI.  5239 

dent  of  the  Council,  invited  nie,  but  I  had  no  wish  to  go. 
I  was  afraid  they  would  call  on  me  to  speak  ;  so  I  chose 
to  dine  with  a  private  party  of  gentlemen  on  the  second 
day,  and  the  first  day  satisfied  myself  with  a  mere  lunch. 
The  dinners  I  am  told  were  uncommonly  splendid.  Tlien 
in  the  present  state  of  feeling  and  excitement  in  Ireland, 
especially  since  the  Philadelphia  riots,  I  was  afraid  I  might 
unfortunately  say  something  which  might  be  misunder- 
stood or  perverted,  and  which  I  should  regret. 

I  have  now  several  invitations  in  the  country.  I  think 
there  is  much  to  interest  me  here.  I  go  to-morrow  a 
few  miles  out  of  town,  to  see  an  agricultural  school,  on 
an  improved  plan,  which,  it  is  said,  is  worth  a  visit  to 
Ireland.     I  must  close,  or  miss  the  mail.      Adieu. 


LETTER    LXXI. 

Dublin,  I61I1  August,  1844. 
My  Dear  Sir: 

By  Mr.  Parker,  I  send  to  your  care  a  small  box  con- 
taining a  little  present  for  Mrs.  C .     Mr.  C 

has  been  so  kind  to  me,  that  I  felt  anxious  to  make  some 
little  acknowledgment  in  this  form  ;  and  this  box  con- 
tains a  copy  of  Chantry's  celebrated  monumental  statue, 
in  Litchfield  Cathedral,  in  memory  of  two  sisters.  The 
original,  which  is  of  the  size  of  life,  is  considered  as 
his  great  work,  and  indeed  is  much  admired.  I  have,  as 
yet,  seen  few  things  more  beautiful. 

There  is  just  published  a  very  fine  engraving  of 
Landseer's,  called   the   watch-dog,   which  represents  a 


240         EUROPKAN  LIFE  AND  MANNEKS. 

large  mastiff  laying  down  with  an  intent  expression  of 
countenance,  and  a  small  dog  near  him.  They  are 
much  thought  of,  and  the  engraving  is  admirable.  I  do 
not  myself  consider  it  nearly  as  handsome  as  the  "  Chan- 
cellor laying  down  the  law."  I  found,  likewise,  a  new 
engraving,  presenting  a  Neapolitan  scene  called  Harvest 
Home,  which  has  just  come  out,  and  which  is  extremely 
beautiful. 

The  extracts  which  I  have  seen  from  the  American 
papers,  indicate  an  extraordinary  degree  of  prosperity  in 
the  United  States.  The  English  still  seem  confident 
that  if  they  would  relax  their  com  laws,  or  rather  abolish 
them,  the  United  States  would  at  once  abandon  their 
tariff.  I  tell  them  there  is  no  chance  whatever  of  any 
such  result.  The  Government,  I  think,  fully  understand 
it ;  and  there  is  no  present  prospect  of  any  change  in 
their  policy.  The  government  here  was  never  stronger, 
nor  upon  the  whole,  the  nation  more  prosperous.  Mis- 
ery, indeed,  there  is  enough  ;  there  has  always  been  a 
great  deal ;  but  the  whole  constitution  of  things  must 
be  changed  here,  before  any  thing  like  a  remedy  can  be 
found.  I  see  nothing  left  for  them  to  do,  horrible  as  is 
the  alternative,  but  to  suffer  on  and  die.  Much  is 
done  for  its  alleviation,  yet  it  would  appear  that,  let 
them  build  alms-houses  and  work-houses  ever  so  exten- 
sively, and  fill  them  to  repletion,  the  floating  mass  of 
misery  and  destitution  does  not  seem  to  be  diminished. 
Here  it  presents  itself  in  the  most  squalid  and  frightful 
forms,  yet  the  beggars  in  Dublin  are  not  so  numerous  as 
I  expected  to  see.  Heaven  knows  there  are  enough  of 
them.  Temperance,  or  rather  total-abstinence,  has  done 
an  immense  work  for  the  Irish ;    but  it  reaches  only  to 


LETTER    L.XX1I.  241 

the  lower  classes,  excepting  as  it  may  seem  indirectly 
to  affect  the  upper  strata.  Father  INlatthew  is  expected 
here  on  Sunday,  and  I  hope  to  see  him.  I  have  not  yet 
called  on  O'Connell,  but  design  to  do  it,  before  I 
leave,  as  I  have  letters  to  him,  and  why  should  I  not  see 
all  the  great  objects  of  interest  ?  O'Connell  is  at  present 
confined  in  one  of  the  prisons,  but  holds  a  levee  daily, 
between  one  and  two  o'clock,  when  visitors  are  admit- 
ted. A  friend  here  has  promised  to  introduce  me,  and 
I  shall  therefore  see  the  Lion  in  his  cage.  There  is 
attached  to  the  prison  or  keeper's  house,  a  spacious 
garden,  in  which  he  and  his  companions  are  allowed  at 
pleasure  to  recreate  themselves.  He  has  likewise  a 
chapel  fitted  up  in  the  prison,  for  his  own  particular 
accommodation,  (so  that  this  republican  does  not  worship 
with  the  vulgar  herd,)  and  a  priest  for  his  own  personal 
service.  What  use  he  has  for  a  confessor,  must  be  be'st 
known  to  himself.     Adieu. 


LETTER   LXXIL 

Dublin,  26lh  August,  1844. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  LEAVE  this  to-morrow  morning,  on  my  tour  through 
the  Island,  a  place  of  the  deepest  interest  and  full  of 
various  instruction.  I  have  been  here  ten  days,  and 
every  moment  fully  occupied.  I  never  found  more  hos- 
pitality. I  took  lodgings,  but  have  taken  only  four 
meals  at  home,  and  if  I  could  eat  six  times  a  day  inst  ead 
of  three,  there  would  be  a  demand  upon  my  time,  I 
21 


242  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

have  been  urged  by  three  most  respectable  and  agreeable 
Quaker  femilies,  to  come  at  once  with  my  luggage  to 
their  houses,  but  have  thought  best  to  decline,  because 
I  could  not  command  my  time ;  they  press  me  when 
I  return  to  Liverpool  to  come  again  to  Dublin,  and  they 
insist  that  I  shall  never  go  again  to  a  public  house  or 
lodgings. 

You  can  have  no  conception  of  the  wretchedness  of 
parts  of  this  country,  and  I  never  saw  human  nature  in 
such  a  state  of  degradation  as  in  this  city.  It  never 
entered  my  thoughts  that  people  could  exist  in  so  forlorn 
and  wretched  a  condition.  I  saw  thousands  of  people 
at  the  Donny  Brooke  Fair  yesterday,  which  was  called 
the  Walking  Sunday,  and  thousands  came  up  and 
kneeled  round  the  platform  where  I  stood,  to  take  the 
Temperance  Pledge  from  Dr.  Sprat,  who  succeeds 
Father  Matthew,  —  old  and  young,  ragged  and  whole, 
clean  and  squalid,  fair  and  sunken  and  miserable.  I 
never  witnessed  a  scene  more  affecting,  but  I  cannot  tell 
you  now  more  about  it.     My  best  love  to  all. 


LETTER    LXXIIL 

Lunerick,  Ireland,  31st  August,  1844. 
My  Dear  S ; 

I  AM   here  only   for  the   night.     As  I  thought  you 

would   like  them,  I  beg  your  acceptance  of  a  pair  of 

"Limerick"    gloves,  from  the   Queen's   glover.     This 

kind  is  to  be  obtained  at  no  other  shop  in  the  kingdom  ; 


LETTER    LXXni.  243 

and  could  I  have  sent  the  nut  by  mail,  they  would  have 
gone  to  you  in  a  walnut  shell,  as  I  saw  others  put  up. 
I  am  told  the  quality  is  extraordinary,  and  that  they  will 
last  a  long  time  and  bear  cleaning.  I  hope  the  deed 
will  suit,  if  the  gloves  do  not.  They  are  one  dollar  per 
pair.  They  can  be  sent  to  any  part  of  the  kingdom  per 
mail  for  a  penny  —  is  not  that  convenient  ? 

I  was  anxious  to  see  the  best  and  the  worst  of  Ireland, 
and  for  that  reason  have  taken  a  route  of  three  days 
circuit  more  than  were  indispensable.  I  was  desirous  to 
see,  first,  the  redemption  of  the  bogs  of  Ireland  ;  second, 
the  experimental  small  farms  at  Armagh  ;  and  third,  the 
agricultural  school  at  Templemoyle,  and  some  others. 
I  am  not  sorry  that  I  came.  I  spent  yesterday  at  the 
Lake  of  Killarney,  and  at  the  Gap  of  Dunlop,  which,  with 
the  exception  of  the  ancient  ruins  of  castles  and  abbeys 
and  churches,  and  the  purple  heath  which  everywhere 
covers  the  hills  and  gives  them  at  this  season  a  singular 
beauty,  is  much  like  the  White  Mountains,  the  Notch, 
and  Winnipiseogee  Lake,  though  on  a  smaller  scale.  I 
have  not  now  time  to  give  you  a  description,  further  than 
to  say  that  I  ate  as  good  a  dinner  at  the  summit  of  the 
notch  or  gap  of  the  mountains  as  I  could  desire,  of  bread 
and  goat's  milk  ;  of  goats  the  woman  keeps  a  herd  of 
thirty.  Her  cottage,  which  is  the  resort  of  travellers,  was 
singularly  neat.  The  daughter  goes  three  times  a  week 
to  Killarney,  ten  miles,  on  foot  and  barefoot,  making  a 
jaunt  of  twenty  miles  each  time,  to  obtain  bread  for  the 
guests  who  may  visit  them.  She  was  a  civil  person,  of 
about  eighteen  years  old,  and  the  picture  of  health  and 
strength,  and  seemed  not  at  all  to  regard  her  walk,  from 
which   she    had    just    returned,   having   started    at    four 


244        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

o'clock  and  reached  home  at  noon,  ready  for  another 
excursion  upon  the  mountains  after  the  goats,  of  which 
she  had  the  principal  care. 

In  strolling  out  upon  the  mountains  with  a  son  of  this 
family  as  a  guide,  we  met  in  one  of  the  most  solitary 
places  a  poor,  forlorn,  half-clad  woman,  leading  about 
two  very  pretty  children  with  clean  faces,  but  less  than 
half-dressed,  who,  in  a  language  of  which  I  did  not  un- 
derstand a  word,  offered  to  sell  us  some  tobacco,  which 
no  doubt  had  been  obtained  by  smuggling.  I  gave  her 
a  small  piece  of  money  and  kissed  the  two  children,  for 
which  her  gratitude  seemed  unbounded,  and  the  tears 
filled  her  eyes  ;  after  I  had  got  half  or  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  her,  I  turned  back  and  saw  her  and  her  two 
children  upon  their  knees,  evidently,  by  her  gestures,  in- 
voking blessings  upon  my  head.  Though  humble,  these 
seem  certainly  a  most  grateful  people ;  and  if  half  their 
blessings  were  obtained  in  full,  all  life  and  happiness 
would  be  attainable  upon  easy  terms. 

I  shall  give  you  hereafter,  in  a  different  form,  a  full 
account  of  my  tour.  I  have,  I  am  almost  ready  to 
say,  never  seen  a  more  beautiful  country  than  Ireland, 
yet  I  have  explored  only  a  part  of  it ;  but  all  and  any 
language  is  inadequate  to  describe  the  condition  of  the 
people.  It  is  poor,  filthy,  squalid,  ragged,  wretched, 
wretched,  wretched,  in  a  physical  point  of  view,  beyond 
all  conception  to  those  who  have  not  seen  it.  The  family 
where  I  dined  yesterday  never  have  any  bread  or  meat 
excepting  a  small  quantity  at  Christmas,  and  they  have 
nothing  whatever  but  potatoes  and  milk,  generally  sour 
milk,  for  three  hundred  and  sixty-four  days  out  of  the 
three  hundred  and  sixty-five,  yet  they  are  on  the  whole 


LETTER    LXXIV.  '245 

an  agreeable  people,  full  of  life  and  humor,  of  brilliant 
imagination,  and  dealing  a  good  deal  in  fiction  ;  ready  to 
serve  you  with  any  thing  they  have  ;  grateful  to  an  ex- 
cess for  any  kindness,  and  making  no  whining  nor  com- 
plaints. The  women,  if  they  had  the  advantages  of 
dress,  would  be  uncommonly  beautiful ;  but,  poor  things  ! 
I  have  no  doubt,  as  Saturday  is  a  great  market-day,  I 
passed  a  thousand,  perhaps  many  more,  and  will  venture 
to  say  not  fifty  of  them  had  on  either  stockings  or  shoes. 
Strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  common  people,  I  mean 
the  men,  are  in  some  respects  well  educated.  I  was 
in  a  school  yesterday  of  one  hundred  and  twenty 
scholars  ;  they  appeared,  as  far  as  improvement  went, 
extremely  well.  Last  night  the  inn-keeper  called  in 
a  ragged  boy  of  ten  years  old  out  of  the  street  of 
Killarney,  the  son  of  a  shoemaker,  living  only  upon 
potatoes  and  milk,  and  he  bore  a  good  examination  in 
the  Greek*  and  Latin  grammars  and  recited  well  in 
Virgil  and  the  Greek  Testament.  This  morning,  as  I 
was  waiting  for  the  coach  to  start,  a  school  boy  passed 
me  on  his  way  to  school  with  his  books  under  his  arm, 
and  I  asked  him  to  let  me  see  them.  He  was  fifteen 
years  old,  and  was  going  to  recite  Homer  in  Greek,  which 
he  had  in  his  hand.       Adieu. 


LETTER   LXXIV. 

Belfast,  16th  Septcmljor,  1S44. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  WROTE  to  you  last  from  Dublin,  from  which  I  went  to 
Cork,  then  to  Killarney,  thence  to  Limerick,  thence  to 
21* 


246        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

Galway,  thence  to  Sligo,  Deny,  the  Giant's  Causeway,  to 
Belfast ;  from  this  place,  where  I  arrived  last  Monday, 
I  went  to  Armagh,  and  returned  on  Saturday  evening. 
Yesterday  I  spent  Sunday  with  the  Rev.  Dr.  Montgomery 
at  Dun-Murry,  about  four  miles  from  town.  To-day  is  to 
be  given  to  letters  for  home.  To-morrow  I  go  to  the 
Marquis  of  Downshire's,  at  Hillsboro,  where  I  do  not  mean 
to  be  persuaded  to  stay,  though  he  has  been  very  kind  in 
his  attentions  to  me  ;  and  on  Wednesday  I  quit  for  Ayr  in 
Scotland,  in  the  steam-boat.  I  see  by  this  morning's 
paper,  the  arrival  of  the  steamer,  and  shall  hope  to  meet 
my  letters  at  Ayr.  I  thank  Heaven  daily  and  hourly, 
for  the  power  of  keeping  the  chain  of  communication 
and  affection  whole  and  bright,  though  so  many  thousand 
miles  of  deep  ocean  separate  us. 

Yesterday  morning,  on  going  down  to  breakfast,  I  had 
the  agreeable  surprise  of  meeting  Mr.  Ticknor  of  Boston, 
bookseller,  who  will  take  my  letters  ;  and  if  you  will 
give  yourself  the  trouble  of  calling  on  him,  he  will  be  able 
to  tell  you  all  about  me. 

My  visit  to  Ireland  has  been  on  many  accounts 
highly  agreeable  and  instructive.  At  Dublin,  a  party  of 
kind  Quakers,  the  Webbs  and  others,  were  unremitted 
in  their  attentions.  I  certainly  never  saw  kinder,  and 
seldom  ever  saw  so  kind  people  ;  and  the  only  thing  that 
seemed  to  give  them  any  trouble  was,  that  I  would  not 
quarter  myself  upon  them.  They  would  not  consent 
that  I  should  breakfast,  dine,  or  tea,  but  with  them  ;  and 
if  I  delayed  in  the  morning,  a  deputation  was  sure  to 
come  after  me.  They  have  their  reward  in  the  pleasure 
of  doing  good  and  making  others  happy.  The  good 
souls,  however,  seemed  to  be  sadly  afflicted  when  I  told 


LETTER    LXXIV.  247 

them  that  in  all  physical  and  political  comforts,  the 
condition  of  the  American  slaves  was  infinitely  better 
than  that  of  the  lower  Irish.  From  Dublin  I  proceeded 
by  Clonmel  to  Cork,  and  here  my  Quaker  friends  had 
written  to  their  friends,  to  anticipate  my  coming.  I 
arrived  at  three  o'clock,  and  as  I  proposed  only  to  remain 
one  night,  I  had  not  been  there  fifteen  minutes,  when 
my  wish  was  complied  with  to  see  Father  Matthew.  On 
my  return,  a  dinner  was  prepared  for  me,  in  spite  of  my 
protestations ;  a  carriage  was  at  the  door  with  the 
charming  lady  of  the  house  for  my  guide,  to  take  me  to 
Blarney  Castle,  and  to  show  me  all  within  and  without 
the  city  that  was  interesting,  and  to  bring  me  back  to 
pass  a  most  agreeable  evening,  stretched  out  beyond 
midnight,  and  then  to  overwhelm  me  with  invitations  to 
stay  longer,  and  kind  wishes  for  the  successful  prosecu- 
tion of  my  journey.  From  Cork,  however,  next  morning 
I  proceeded  to  Killarney,  stealing  one  day,  and  going 
out  of  my  way  about  twenty  miles,  in  search  of  the 
picturesque.  The  scenery  was  chamiing,  and  my  labor 
amply  repaid.  In  two  respects  the  lakes  of  Killarney 
and  their  neighborhood  differ  from  the  New  Hampshire 
scenery  ;  first,  in  several  old  ruins  of  castles  and  abbeys, 
which  are  exceedingly  picturesque ;  and  second,  in  the 
swarms  of  beggars  which  beset  your  carnage,  and  almost 
threaten  to  take  your  purse  and  pockets  by  force.  I 
never  saw  the  like.  Several  of  the  coach  passengers  on 
our  amval,  "  wished  them  all  to  the  devil,"  in  which 
pious  ejaculation  I  am  not  certain  that  I  should  not  have 
joined,  if  I  had  believed  there  was  any  worse  devil,  than 
had  already  got  hold  of  them  ;  but  I  certainly  wished 
them  in  the  lakes  of  Killarney  until  they  could   at  least 


248        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

have  been  washed  clean  from  a  dirt  and  squalidness,  and 
raggedness  and  fihh,  of  which  I  am  certain  you  never 
saw  an  example. 

The  tour  of  the  lakes  and  the  Gap  of  Dunlop,  includes 
about  ten  miles,  and  may  be  accomplished  either  by  a 
car,  a  pony,  or  a  boat.  To  enjoy  my  independence,  I 
determined  to  take  a  pony,  and  let  my  own  tongue 
serve  the  purpose  of  a  guide.  Alas,  for  my  unfortunate 
decision.  At  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  a  red  pony 
came  to  the  door,  brought  by  a  woman  with  a  large 
shelalah  in  her  hand,  sharp  pointed  at  one  end,  in  the 
most  public  street  of  Killarney,  crowded  with  market- 
women,  vagabonds,  pony-letters,  importunate  guides, 
beggars,  and  every  offensive  description  of  biped  and 
quadruped,  to  the  amount  at  least  of  a  thousand.  Lo ! 
I  descended  to  mount,  (which  by  the  way  is  good  Irish.) 
It  was  not  necessary  for  me  to  put  my  foot  in  the  stirrup, 
but  only  to  throw  my  leg  over  the  saddle,  upon  the 
back  of  a  most  forlorn-looking  animal ;  and  with  my  legs 
dangling  within  an  inch  of  the  ground,  and  two  ragged 
boys  pulling  at  the  bridle,  and  two  bare-footed  wenches 
with  only  the  semblance  of  a  petticoat  on,  beating  and 
punching  the  animal  behind,  I  essayed  to  move  ;  but  my 
horse  would  not  budge  an  inch,  any  more  than  Balaam's 
ass ;  and  after  not  swearing  a  word,  or  in  any  way 
breaking  the  Queen's  peace,  though  I  am  quite  certain 
my  looks  must  have  indicated  a  terrible  ferocity,  I  dis- 
mounted, or  rather  stepped  off,  throwing  the  reins  over 
the  creature's  head,  and  sneaked  into  my  lodgings, 
amid  a  tumultuous  shout  of  derision,  of  which  I  fancy  I 
still  hear  the  shrill  and  guttural  notes.  The  next  thing 
was  to  get  a  car  and  a  guide,  and  the  day  ended  far 
more  auspiciously  than  it  began. 


LETTER    LXXIV.  249 

The  succeeding  morning  I  started  for  Tjimerick,  where 
I  passed  the  night ;  and  as  I  found  none  of  the  gentle- 
men at  home  to  whom  I  iiad  letters,  I  started  early- 
next  morning  for  Galway,  and  at  night  reached  Lord 
Wallscourt's,  at  Ardfry,  where  I  had  been  invited,  and 
where  I  was  made  heartily  welcome.  Dr.  Howe  had 
visited  him,  and  left  a  most  agreeable  impression.  No 
pains  were  spared  by  land  or  water  to  show  me  every 
thing  interesting.  A  fortnight  it  seems  would  not  have 
satisfied  them,  but  I  could  stay  only  three  nights.  I 
went  to  Galway  to  attend  the  great  Cattle  Fair,  at 
Fair  Mount,  where  four  thousand  ponies  were  brought 
for  sale ;  and  at  eleven  o'clock,  Wednesday  evening, 
after  I  had  engaged  my  passage  in  the  coach,  Lord 
Wallscourt  came  to  tell  me  he  should  not  leave  me  yet, 
but  should  take  the  coach  with  me  in  the  morning,  and 
go  on  a  day  and  a  half's  journey,  which  he  did  with  a 
view  to  show  me  some  important  agricultural  improve- 
ments at  Glenash,  about  fifty  miles  from  his  house. 
Here  we  separated,  he  with  a  thousand  kind  wishes,  and 
I  with  as  many  sincere  thanks  for  his  attentions.  I 
reached  Shgo  at  night ;  —  you  will  easily  follow  me  on  the 
map.  The  town  of  Sligo  is  vile  enough  in  itself,  but  the 
hills  in  its  vicinity  are  beautiful,  embracing  a  landscape 
of  surpassing  richness,  variegated  by  lake,  river,  moun- 
tain, and  ocean  scenery,  and  presenting  a  view  upon  the 
whole,  I  think,  more  varied  than,  and  as  pleasing  as 
Mount  Holyoke  in  Northampton.  My  journey  next 
day  to  Derry  was  dreary  enough,  from  a  pouring  rain  to 
which  I  was  exposed  on  the  outside  of  the  coach. 
Derry  has  many  objects  of  interest,  but  my  chief  aim 
was  to  visit  the  Agricultural  School  at  Templemoyle,  in 


250        EUROPEAN  LTFE  AND  MANNERS. 

its  vicinity.  Here  I  went  on  Sunday  afternoon,  after 
church,  and  then  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  left  for 
Coleraine,  twenty-six  miles  ;  I  reached  a  stopping  place 
at  twenty  minutes  past  twelve,  at  night.  I  had  then  ten 
miles  to  go  to  the  Giant's  Causeway,  and  eleven  miles 
back,  to  meet  the  coach  on  its  way  to  Belfast,  at  half-past 
nine  o'clock  the  next  morning,  which  the  inn-keeper  said 
it  was  impossible  to  do.  I  could  not  afford  another  day. 
I  wanted  to  see  this  great  curiosity,  and  I  determined  it 
was  possible.  Ten  Irish  miles  are  about  thirteen  English 
miles,  so  I  ordered  a  car  at  a  quarter  before  three,  rolled 
over  half  a  dozen  times  on  the  bed,  and  at  the  time 
appointed  was  on  my  way  —  reached  the  Causeway  soon 
after  five,  staid  nearly  two  hours,  got  my  breakfast,  and 
was  back  in  season,  waiting  for  the  coach  on  its  arrival 
at  the  usual  hour  —  left  for  Belfast,  and  reached  the 
Imperial  Hotel  here,  the  best  and  cheapest  tavern  I  have 
almost  ever  found,  at  five  o'clock.  On  Wednesday,  I 
took  the  cars  for  Dun-Murry  and  Lisburne  to  deliver 
letters,  and  passed  the  day  with  the  Rev.  Dr.  Mont- 
gomery, his  wife,  two  grown  up  daughters,  and  a  little 
sweet  girl  of  about  fourteen.  I  never  met  more  intelli- 
gent and  agreeable  people,  and  his  situation  realized  to 
my  mind  the  beau  ideal  of  a  country  clergyman's  life. 
He  is  one  of  the  best  preachers  in  the  country,  or  in  any 
country.  I  knew  his  reputation,  and  heard  him  yester- 
day. He  is  one  of  the  best  farmers  in  the  country,  and 
withal  one  of  the  most  liberal  men.  He  is  about  my 
age  ;  —  I  wish  I  was  half  as  wise.  His  wife  is  a  very 
pleasing  woman,  of  charming  manners,  and  his  daugh- 
ters are  highly  cultivated  and  refined.  I  had  seen 
one  of  them    in    London,     I   had    visited    Dr.    Mont- 


LETTER     l.XXIV.  251 

gomery  there  repeatedly,  during  an  illness  with  which 
he  was  attacked  last  winter.  In  five  minutes  thoy 
put  me  entirely  at  home.  Their  cottage  resembles 
Elfin-glen.  The  railroad  has  cut  off  their  fi"ont  yard, 
but  what  remains  is  most  tastefully  adorned  with  flow- 
ers, and  shrubs,  and  their  church  is  in  the  rear  of  the 
manse,  beautifully  embowered  among  the  trees.  Noth- 
ing can  be  prettier.  I  left  at  night,  literally  carried 
off  by  two  agreeable  ladies,  who  had  come  out  there  to 
tea,  and  who  insisted  upon  my  taking  a  seat  alongside  of 
them  on  an  Irish  car,  to  the  town.  It  was  dark,  or 
perhaps  they  would  have  been  ashamed  to  be  seen  with 
such  an  old  fellow,  and  have  dropped  me  before  we 
reached  the  town. 

Thursday  I  went  to  Armagh,  to  see  Mr.  Blacker,  tlie 
most  distinguished  agriculturist  perhaps  in  Ireland,  agent 
for  Lord  Gosford,  to  whom  I  had  letters,  but  who  is  on 
the  continent.  Mr.  Blacker  has  the  care  of  twenty-five 
hundred  small  tenants  !  He  devoted  himself  to  my  ser- 
vice, took  me  about  the  country  many  miles,  and  showed 
me  various  farms,  and  various  specimens  of  cultivation  ; 
then  I  dined  with  the  Precentor  of  the  Cathedral,  Rev. 
Dr.  Allot,  with  a  large  party  of  gentlemen,  an  elegant 
entertainment  at  eight  o'clock  ;  where  I,  poor  soul,  after 
travelling  many  miles  and  having  had  no  lunch,  unfortu- 
nately was  obliged  to  yield  to  malign  influences,  after  the 
cloth  was  removed,  and  was  jogged  at  the  elbow  at  half- 
past  ten,  to  remind  me  that  coffee  was  ready  in  the 
other  room.  How  long  or  how  deeply  I  slept,  I  cannot 
say.  It  was  idle  to  plead  not  guilty ;  so  the  only  way 
was  to  laugh  it  off,  taking  all  their  jokes  in  good  part, 
and  show  off,  after  the  coffee,  with  as  much  brilliancy  as 
I  could  bring  out. 


252         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

The  next  day,  Mr.  Blacker  again  took  me  under  his 
protection  ;  first,  to  breakfast  at  ten  o'clock.  He  had 
sent  for  my  baggage  to  the  tavern,  but  as  my  clothes  were 
wet  by  the  rain  of  Saturday,  and  needed  repacking  and 
drying,  I  thought  it  best  to  lodge  at  the  tavern.  In  the 
evening  I  dined  with  him  and  a  most  agreeable  party 
of  intelligent  gentlemen  ;  and  I  beg  to  assure  you,  did 
not  get  to  sleep.  But  how  is  a  man  to  go  to  bed  at 
welve  at  night,  rise  soon  after  five,  drive  about  the 
whole  day,  get  no  lunch  but  an  apple,  eat  a  hearty 
dinner  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  sit  comfortably 
down  in  a  warm  room,  and  not  be  quite  disposed  to 
shut  his  shop-windows  ? 

Saturday  afternoon,  in  a  soaking  rain,  I  returned  to 
Belfast.  Yesterday,  I  spent  the  day  at  Dr.  Montgom- 
ery's, and  heard  him  preach  a  capital  sermon.  I  have 
not  passed  a  Sunday  so  entirely  to  my  mind,  since  I 
crossed  the  Atlantic.  My  former  impressions  were 
strengthened,  though  one  of  the  young  ladies  was  absent. 
The  walk  five  miles  in  the  morning,  after  the  whole 
country  had  been  refreshed  by  rain,  and  all  was  still  and 
calm,  people  in  their  best  dresses  gathering  in  all  direct- 
ions for  public  worship,  was  most  delightful ;  and  when 
I  got  out  of  the  town,  "  the  busy  haunts  of  men,"  and 
following  the  road  lined  with  beautifully  clipped  hedges, 
and  the  wide  spread  fields  stretching  out  far  before  the 
eye,  and  the  bold  mountains  bounding  the  distant  pros- 
pect, and  the  flill  river  marking  its  silver  line  through 
the  meadows,  and  occasionally  spreading  out  its  broad 
surface  like  a  mirror  encased  in  a  frame  of  living  green, 
my  heart  bounded  towards  home  with  an  elasticity  which 
wholly  unmanned  me,  because  I  wished  that  other  hearts 


LETTKR    LXXIV.  253 

could  share  in  my  delights,  and  my  whole  soul  went  up 
to  heaven  in  a  spontaneous  and  irreprcssihlc  hymn  of 
thanksgiving.  God  be  praised  for  his  goodness,  and  for 
the  million  of  undeserved  blessings  which  he  has  poured 
out  upon  me. 

I  shall  quit  Ireland  on  Wednesday,  having  travelled 
in  it  many  hundreds  of  miles.  I  never  saw  a  more 
beautiftd  country,  though  art  has  done  little  for  it.  I 
never  met  with  a  more  hospitable,  generous,  witty  people. 
But  the  wretchedness  of  the  great  mass  of  the  population 
is  utterly  beyond  all  description.  I  have  been  into  cabins 
dug  out  of  the  bog,  with  no  walls  but  the  peat  mud  in 
which  they  have  been  excavated,  with  the  roof  covered 
with  turf  and  straw,  and  the  water  standing  in  puddles 
on  the  outside,  without  chimney,  window,  door,  floor, 
bed,  chair,  table,  knife,  or  fork  ;  the  whole  furniture  con- 
sisting of  some  straw  to  lay  down  upon,  a  pot  to  boil  the 
potatoes  in,  a  tin  cup  to  drink  out  of,  and  a  wicker- 
basket  to  take  up  the  potatoes  in  after  they  are  boiled, 
which  is  set  down  in  the  middle  of  the  floor,  and  parents 
and  children  squat  down  like  Hottentots,  on  the  ground, 
and  eat  their  food  with  their  fingers,  sometimes  with  salt, 
and  often  without ;  and  this  is  literally  the  whole  of  their 
living,  day  after  day,  and  year  after  year,  excepting  that 
on  Christmas  day  they  contrive  to  get  a  little  piece  of 
meat  and  a  bit  of  bread.  You  will  be  curious  to  know 
if  I  have  seen  many  living  so  —  Yes,  hundreds  —  hun- 
dreds ?  yes,  thousands  —  thousands?  yes,  a  million.  I 
could  hardly  credit  my  own  senses  until  I  went  into  the 
cabins,  and  felt  my  way  in  the  smoke  and  darkness,  and 
actually  put  my  hand  upon  the  turf  sides.  Here  they 
all  lie  down,  parents  and  children,  brothers  and  sisters, 
•22 


254         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNEKS. 

on  the  straw  at  night,  huddled  together,  literally  naked, 
(because,  the  Irish  coachman  said,  if  they  wore  their 
shirts  they  were  afraid  they  would  be  stolen,)  with  the 
pigs,  and  oftentimes  the  ass  or  the  horse,  and  sometimes 
the  cow  in  the  same  room.  In  one  cabin  I  found  a  woman 
and  six  young  children  in  a  room  not  much  larger  than 
a  small  parlor,  with  a  sow,  and  nine  pigs  a  month  old, 
which  had  been  farrowed  and  reared  there,  and  a  large 
flock  of  poultry  roosting  over  head ;  and  they  brought 
the  ass  in  at  night,  or  rather  he  came  in  and  out,  as  he 
pleased.  Then  as  to  the  clothing  of  these  people.  I 
went  into  one  cabin  ;  the  parents  were  at  work  in  the 
bog ;  three  little  children  almost  naked  were  nestling 
around  the  turf  fire,  which  was  made  upon  the  floor, 
for  there  was  no  chimney  or  fire  place  ;  and  there  was 
a  beautiful  little  girl  about  fourteen,  o^  sweet  address 
and  manners,  with  nothing  on  but  a  rag  covering 
the  upper  part  of  her  person,  and  a  piece  of  flannel 
reaching  not  quite  down  to  the  knees,  for  a  petticoat ; 
and  she  told  us  she  had  no  other  clothes.  There  are 
thousands  of  similar  cases.  The  women  are  universally 
barefoot,  a  large  portion  of  them,  I  am  assured,  having  no 
stockings  or  shoes  to  wear,  even  in  winter,  when  snow  is 
on  the  ground  ;  and  this  in  a  country  belonging  to  the 
richest  and  most  refined  people  on  the  globe,  not  forty - 
eight  hours'  journey  form  London  ;  not  one-fourth  part 
of  which  is  cultivated,  and  containing  millions  of  untilled 
acres  of  as  rich  land  as  the  sun  shines  upon.  But  I  will 
not  go  further  now ;  you  must  be  tired.  I  thought  I 
would  make  one  general  letter  for  all. 

After  visiting  Ayrshire,  I  am  going  north,  to  see  the 
Duke  of  Richmond,  who   promises    to    show  me   the 


LETTER    LXXV.  255 

country  in  his  neighborhood,  and  if  time  admits,  to  tlie 
Duke  of  Sutherland's,  at  the  extremity  of  Scotland.  Of 
this,  however,  I  am  doubtful. 

It  makes  me  quite  miserable  to  see  one  friend  after 
another  sailing  for  home  ;  but  my  time  will  come  pres- 
ently, and  that  not  far  distant ;  for  how  fast  the  wheel 
goes  round ;  I  find  myself  quite  advanced,  and  yet  it 
seems  to  me  T  have  hardly  begun  to  live.  Love  to  all. 
I  do  not  foro-et  a  single  one  :  mind  that.      Adieu. 


LETTER   LXXV. 

Belfast,  IGth  September,  1844. 
My  Dear  Sir: 

There  is  still  another  chance  of  writing  you  by  the 
mail  of  to-morrow,  and  I  will  not  forego  the  pleasure  of 
acknowledging  your  last  letter.  I  have  been  much 
gratified  by  my  visit  to  Ireland,  obliged  by  the  most  kind 
and  friendly  attentions,  and,  as  much  as  possible,  inter- 
ested in  the  country,  and  the  condition  of  the  people. 
My  main  objects  were,  to  see  the  agricultural  schools,  of 
which  I  have  visited  three  ;  the  model  farms,  of  which 
I  have  seen  two ;  the  management  of  small  farms  in 
one  of  the  counties,  of  which  much  has  been  said  ; 
and  the  cultivation  of  flax,  to  which  an  extraordinary  im- 
petus has  been  given  in  this  part  of  the  country,  the  great 
centre  of  the  linen  manufacture,  which  is  conducted 
here  under  circumstances  of  great  success  and  improve- 
ment. In  all  these  respects,  my  visit  has  been  most 
satisfactory,  the  evidences  of  which  will  be,  I  hope,  duly 
given  to  the  public,  and  I  will  not  now  anticipate  them. 


256  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

This  seems  to  be  a  remarkably  thrifty  town,  and  well 
built  and  laid  out.  I  may  add,  for  an  Irish  town, 
very  clean,  which  is,  however,  after  all,  only  an  equivocal 
compliment.  The  tall  chimneys  of  the  linen  manufac- 
tories rise  in  every  direction,  within  and  around  the  town, 
and  the  fields  in  the  vicinity  are  white  with  the  beautiful 
fabrics  of  their  looms  —  for  the  bleaching  of  the  linen  is 
done  upon  the  grass.  There  is  comparatively  little  idle- 
ness or  vagabondage  in  the  town  ;  and,  after  passing 
through  many  of  the  other  towns  of  Ireland,  it  is  an 
unspeakable  relief  to  find  one,  where  you  are  not 
grossly  offended  by  the  sight  of  the  half-clad  and  filthy 
inhabitants,  or  by  the  comfortlessness  and  wretchedness 
of  their  habitations,  compared  to  which,  many  a  pig-sty 
which  I  have  seen,  must  be  considered  as  almost  a  palace. 

The  condition  of  Ireland  is  now  everywhere  arresting 
the  attention  of  the  world,  and  the  liberation  of  O'Con- 
nell,  effected,  it  would  seem,  almost  by  an  accident,  has 
produced  here  the  most  intense  excitement.  What  is 
the  next  move  he  will  make  on  the  board,  it  is  not  so 
easy  to  conjecture  ;  but  it  is  quite  certain  there  will  be  no 
want  of  caution,  on  his  part,  to  escape  falling  again  into 
the  clutches  of  the  government,  between  whom  and 
himself  there  is  certainly  no  love  lost.  His  promise 
of  effecting  a  repeal  of  the  union  of  the  two  coun- 
tries, is  as  likely  to  be  executed,  as  that  we  shall  have 
snow  in  summer ;  and  the  whole  will  probably  evaporate, 
like  Miller's  prophecy  about  the  end  of  the  world.  The 
repeal  of  the  union  would  work  nothing  but  ill  to  Ire- 
land ;  and  Ireland  being  left  to  herself,  there  would  be 
war  to  the  hilt,  of  the  most  dreadful  kind,  between 
the  Catholics  and  the  Protestants,  for  which,  it  is  but 
too    obvious,  that   the  mastiffs  and    bull-dogs,  on  both 


LETTKR    LXXV.  257 

sides,  are  panting  to  be  let  loose.  The  condition  of  a 
large  portion  of  the  Irish  people  involves  an  amount 
of  destitution  and  wretchedness,  which  admits  of  no 
description,  and,  in  comparison  with  which,  the  physical 
condition  of  the  southern  slaves  is  almost  a  condition  of 
felicity.  It  is  idle  to  expect  that  any  legislative  enact- 
ments can  remedy  this,  or  that,  by  any  process  whatever, 
a  thorough,  or  even  a  considerable  change  can  be  speed- 
ily effected.  Much  is  doing  for  the  improvement  of 
the  country ;  but,  in  my  opinion,  one  of  its  greatest 
curses  is  its  clergy,  all  parties  of  which  are  full  of  hate 
to  each  other,  and  are  uniting  to  oppose  and  crush  all 
systems  of  education  and  improvement,  which  injuriously 
affect  their  power,  and  do  not  involve  the  teaching 
and  direct  extension  of  their  peculiar  tenets.* 

*  I  subjoin  a  curious  document,  showing:  the  immense  fortunes  accumu- 
lated by  the  Episcopal  bishops  in  Ireland,  in  the  discharge  of  their  pastoral 
duties.  Out  of  whom  this  money  comes,  it  is  not  difficult  to  say.  The  use 
of  these  bishops,  and  the  value  of  their  services,  we  leave  it  to  those  who 
enjoy  such  luxiu-ies,  to  calculate.  Perhaps  it  is  only  just,  as  Dr.  Jortin  says, 
that  they  who  feed  the  sheep  should  llecce  the  sheep  :  — 

Sums  accumulated  by  Irish  Bisliops  of  the  EiigUsh  Protestant  Episcopal 
Church. 
Extract  from  probates  of  fortunes  left  by  Irish  Bishops,  laid  before  the 
House  of  Commons,  1832. 


Stopf(}rd, 

Bishop  of 

Cork, 

£25,000 

Percy, 

Dromore, 

40,000 

Cleaver, 

Ferns, 

50,000 

Bernard, 

Limerick, 

60,000 

Knox, 

KiUaloe, 

100,000 

Fowler, 

Dublin, 

150,000 

Beresford, 

Tuam, 

250.000 

Hawkins, 

Raphoe, 

250,000 

Stewart, 

Armagh, 

300,000 

Porter, 

Clogher, 

250,000 

Agar, 

Cashel, 

400,000 

Total, 

£1,875,000 

tliis  was  will 

n'n  a  period  of  forty  or  fiftv  years 

22* 

258  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 


LETTER   LXXVI. 

Edinburgh,  29th  September,  1844. 
Sunday  Evening. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  WILL  give  you  some  account  of  my  recent  pere- 
grinations. My  last  was  from  Belfast,  Ireland,  by  Mr. 
Ticknor.  He  left  on  Monday  morning,  and  I  came 
to  Ayr  on  the  Thursday  following.  Ayr  is  the  princi- 
pal town  in  Ayrshire,  Scotland,  one  of  the  best  culti- 
vated districts  in  this  highly  cultivated  country.  It 
is  the  birthplace  of  Mr.  Rankin,  of  Canandaigua,  who 
had  given  me  letters  to  several  of  his  friends,  which 
were  duly  honored,  and  they  gave  me  letters  to  others. 
Besides,  Alexander  Bickett,  whom  you  will  remember 
as  having  lived  with  me  in  the  United  States,  was  from 
Ayr,  and  had  been  home  the  last  summer  to  get  a 
Scotch  lassie  to  go  back  with  him.  He  had  made  me 
known  to  several  of  the  farmers,  who  had  expressed  a 
wish  that  I  should  visit  them.  He  was  much  respected 
in  his  situation,  and  had  married  a  very  nice  young 
woman.  I  went  to  see  the  family.  Two  sisters  were 
left  behind,  who,  with  the  mother,  told  me,  "  that  Alex. 
had  not  taken  the  best  of  the  family,  but  that  there  was 
mickle  good  corn  in  the  crib  yet."  I  saw  there  some  of 
the"  best  farming  that  I  have  ever  seen,  and  certainly  I 
never  met  with  more  hospitable  people.  I  called  on 
Mr.  Tennant,  a  large  farmer,  who  sent  at  once  to 
town,  four  miles,  for  my  luggage,  and   kept  me   three 


LETTER    LXXVI.  259 

days,  carrying  me  to  see  all  the  farms  in  his  neighbor- 
hood. In  the  meantime,  Mr.  Barnett,  a  large  pro- 
prietor, sent  for  mc,  and  I  staid  with  him  three  days, 
visiting  the  principal  places  in  his  neighborhood.  Mr. 
Campbell,  in  the  meantime,  who  has  an  elegant  and 
extensive  house  and  farm,  would  hardly  allow  me  to 
leave  without  visiting  him,  and  insisted  that  I  should  see 
him  on  my  return  ;  but  this  I  fear  I  cannot  do.  Other 
gentlemen  were  equally  kind,  and  I  could  have  staid  a 
month,  if  my  time  had  permitted.  My  time  at  Ayr  and 
in  L'eland  has,  I  think,  been  very  profitably  spent.  I 
left  Ayr  on  Friday  morning  for  Glasgow,  intending  to 
stay  two  or  three  days  at  G.,  to  get  refitted.  But  Glas- 
gow is  not  at  all  to  my  taste.  It  actually  swarms  with 
people  ;  much  of  it  is  excessively  dirty,  and  I  determined 
to  come  to  this  beautiful,  I  may  say  splendid  city. 
Yesterday,  being  a  heavy  rain,  I  kept  house,  for  I  needed 
rest.  To-day  the  weather  is  fine ;  the  city  was  last 
night  washed  thoroughly  clean  ;  and  I  have  attended 
meeting,  in  the  morning  at  Dr.  Candlish's,  who  passes 
for  a  Dr.  Channing,  and  in  the  afternoon  at  Dr. 
Ritchie's,  to  whom  I  had  been  fonnerly  introduced. 
The  latter  is  a  canny  and  hearty  Scotchman,  a  learned, 
sensible,  and  very  acute  man,  whose  sermon  was  quite 
too  long,  though  practical  and  excellent. 

To-morrow,  at  one,  I  leave   for   the   north,  to   go   to 
Inverness,  thence  to  Gordon  Castle.     Adieu. 


260        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 


LETTER  LXXVII. 

Tynemoutli,  near  Newcastle,  14th  October,  1844- 
My  Dear  M : 

My  last  was  dated  at  Edinburgh,  which  I  left,  intend- 
ing to  go  to  Gordon  Castle,  by  invitation  of  the  Duke  of 
Richmond,  and  to  Dun-Robin,  by  invitation  of  the 
Duke  of  Sutherland.  In  order  to  do  this,  I  returned  to 
Glasgow,  that  I  might  go  by  the  lakes,  and  proceed  up 
the  Caledonian  Canal  —  a  route  easily  traced  on  the 
map.  I  had  been  suffering,  however,  for  several  days, 
from  a  severe  pain  in  my  side,  —  a  remnant,  I  believe, 
of  my  fall  last  autumn.  The  weather  had  become 
changeable  and  tempestuous  ;  I  had  been  thoroughly  wet 
three  times,  and  I  deemed  it,  after  getting  to  the  end  of 
Loch  Lomond  in  a  hurricane,  expedient  to  beat  a  retreat, 
and  give  up  penetrating  any  further  into  the  highlands  of 
Scotland,  which,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  are  notori- 
ously the  region  of  winds,  fogs,  and  storms.  I  returned, 
therefore,  to  Glasgow,  and  went  to  visit  the  Messrs. 
Druminond,  at  Stirling,  who  have  a  very  large  and  justly 
celebrated  agricultural  museum.  I  saw,  likewise,  their 
extensive  nursery. 

The  country  around  Stirling  is  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful and  most  highly  interesting  in  Scotland,  and  the  view 
from  the  Castle  one  of  picturesqueness  and  richness  of 
scenery  scarcely  surpassed  by  any  prospect  which  I  ever 
looked  upon.  The  view  from  Mount  Holyoke  presents  a 
similar  picture,  but  is  not  to  be  preferred  to  it ;  and  the 


LETTER    LXXVII.  261 

many  historical  associations  connected  with  tiiis  part  of 
the  country  give  it  a  pecuhar  interest. 

From  Stirhng  I  went  to  a  place  called  Argety,  to 
visit  Mr.  Homes,  to  whom  I  had  letters.  He  is  a 
proprietor,  or  Laird,  and  a  very  enterprising  farmer,  con- 
nected hy  blood  with  some  of  the  highest  nobility  of 
Scotland ;  his  wife,  too,  is  a  highly  educated  person,  and 
they  gave  me  a  warm  welcome.  I  remained  here  from 
Friday  until  jNIonday,  and  was  strongly  urged  to  prolong 
my  visit.  In  this  neighborhood  are  some  of  the  most 
important  agricultural  improvements  in  the  world,  and 
my  visit  was  as  instructive  as  agreeable.  On  Monday 
noon,  Mr.  Homes  took  me  in  his  carriage  again  to  Stir- 
ling, and  I  proceeded  to  a  place  called  Glenburnie, 
about  seven  miles,  with  letters  to  a  very  large  proprietor, 
Mr.  Stirling.  The  farm  under  his  own  management 
consisted  of  seven  hundred  acres,  and  his  improvements 
were  very  remarkable. 

On  Tuesday  morning,  I  went  with  him  to  Falkirk 
Tryst,  a  market.  This  was  a  particular  object  of  my 
curiosity,  as  it  is  deemed  the  largest  market  in  the  world. 
It  is  held  three  times  a  year,  and  cattle  are  brought  to  it 
several  hundred  miles.  On  this  occasion,  there  were 
between  sixty  and  seventy  thousand  sheep,  and  from 
forty  to  fifty  thousand  head  of  cattle,  with  horses  innu- 
merable. I  never  saw  a  third  of  that  number  of  brutes 
at  one  time,  and  the  field  looked  like  a  great  encamp- 
ment. Besides  the  extiaordinary  numbers,  I  had  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  and  comparing  the  different 
breeds  of  cattle,  as  here  were  specimens  of  all  kinds. 
From  this  I  returned  to  Edinburgh,  where  I  found, 
waiting   for  me  at  the  hotel,  an   invitation  to  dine  with 


262         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

Mr.  Robert  White,  a  friend  of  Mr.  Greig's,  who  had 
invited  a  number  of  farmers  to  meet  me.  I  visited  also 
Mr.  Combe,  and  breakfasted  at  Professor  Gregory's, 
with  Liebig,  the  great  agricultural  chemist,  whom  I  had 
a  strong  desire  to  see,  as  his  name  and  fame  are  as  far 
extended  as  those  of  almost  any  man  living.  I  was 
urged  much  to  attend  a  public  dinner,  which  was  to  be 
given  to  him  at  Glasgow,  but  I  was  obliged  to  decline  it. 
From  Edinburgh,  I  took  the  coach,  and  came  on  by  the 
railroad,  which  follows  the  sea-coast,  by  Dunbar,  Had- 
dington, Berwick  on  the  Tweed,  to  Newcastle  on  the 
Tyne.  A  more  beautiful  ride  I  never  took,  and  a  more 
highly  cultivated  country  I  have  never  seen.  Around 
some  of  the  farms,  I  counted  seventy  or  eighty  large 
stacks  of  wheat  and  oats  ;  and  several  of  them,  it  is 
said,  have  three  hundred  acres  of  turnips  or  nita-baga ; 
and  one  farmer  had  paid  a  rent  of  £7,000,  or  ^35,000 
per  year.  The  farmers  here  are  extremely  rich  and 
intelligent  in  all  that  concerns  their  profession.  I  had 
letters  to  many  of  them,  and  invitations,  but  could  not 
stay.  One  of  the  farms  on  this  route  recently  sold  for 
£63,000,  or  ,$315,000,  cash.  I  believe  it  contains  not 
over  five  or  six  hundred  acres.  I  reached  Newcastle;  on 
Thursday  evening ;  dined  on  Friday  with  a  very  kind 
Quaker  family  —  to  whom  I  had  letters  from  my  Irish 
friends  —  the  lady  of  which  insisted  upon  accompanying 
me  to  Tynemouth,  about  seven  miles,  by  railroad,  where 
I  was  going  to  visit  Miss  Martineau.  Miss  M.  is  greatly 
improved,  and  to  a  considerable  degree  restored  ;  all  of 
which,  she  believes,  is  due  to  the  abandonment  of  medi- 
cine, and  the  influence  of  Mesmerism.  She  seemed 
extremely  glad  to  see  me,  and  sent  many  kind  messages 


LETTER     LXXVllI.  263 

to  you.  I  spent  a  deliglitful  evening  with  her,  and  the 
next  day,  at  her  urgent  request,  staid  until  late  in  the 
afternoon,  that  we  might  take  a  long  walk  together. 
We  sat  two  hours  on  a  cliff  on  the  sea-shore,  she  all  the 
time  pouring  out  a  stream  of  agreeable  talk,  like  a  run- 
ning, gushing,  bubbling  brook.  I  left  her,  with  a 
promise  to  return,  if  possible,  after  visiting  some  kind 
friends  near  Lambton  Castle,  Mr.  H.  Morton  and  family, 
he  the  agent  to  Lord  Durham,  —  a  better,  kinder  family, 
I  do  not  think  is  to  be  found  in  any  country.  I  had  a 
hearty  welcome.  They  would  not  listen  to  my  leaving 
them  yesterday,  and  would  hardly  let  me  go  at  all, 
without  a  promise,  if  possible,  to  give  them  a  week 
before  I  returned  to  the  United  States.  I  was  there  two 
or  three  days  last  autumn,  and  it  surely  is  delightful  to 
find  such  warm  affections.  They  live  in  a  most  comfort- 
able style,  and  the  house  is  as  nice  as  possible. 

To-morrow  I  leave  for  Carlisle,  and  thence  south,  to 
fulfil  several  engagements,  hoping  to  get  into  winter 
quarters  by  the  first  of  November.  I  am  obliged  to 
decline  many  invitations,  but  have  engaged  to  spend 
a  few  days  with  Lord  Braybrooke,  in  Essex,  and  to 
visit  my  excellent  friends,  the  Pendarveses,  in  Corn- 
wall.    Adieu. 


LETTER    LXXVIIL 

Carlisle,  17th  October,  1844. 
My  Dear  S : 

The  coach  does  not  leave  until  eleven  o'clock,  and, 

therefore,  I  have  the  pleasure  of  writing  to  you.     I  wrote 


264  EUROPEAN    LIFE    ANJ)    MANNERS. 

to  your  mother  the  night  before  last  from  Tynemouth, 
where  I  had  been  a  second  time,  to  see  Miss  Martineau. 
Her  situation,  in  regard  to  all  its  localities,  is  one  of 
the  pleasantest  which  can  be  desired.  She  declined, 
from  principle,  a  pension  from  the  government,  and  her 
friends,  by  a  generous  subscription,  have  placed  her  be- 
yond want,  and  she  has  purchased  an  annuity.  The 
house  in  which  she  lives  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Tyne,  and  the  windows  afford  a  view  of  a  wide  expanse 
of  ocean.  In  point  of  scenery  the  situation  resembles, 
but  is  far  more  beautiful,  than  Nahant,  excepting  only 
the  Nahant  Beach.  The  trade  of  Newcastle,  seven 
miles  above  Tynemouth,  is  very  great,  and  the  constant 
entrance  and  departure  of  vessels,  and  the  numerous 
steamboats  which  ply  upon  the  river  give  great  anima- 
tion to  the  prospect.  There  is  a  jutting  point  of  land 
on  which  is  a  fort,  occupied  by  troops,  and  within  its 
walls  are  enclosed  the  ruins  of  a  priory  of  great  anti- 
quity, said  to  be  a  thousand  years  old.  These  ruins 
are  remarkable  for  the  preservation  of  some  of  their  most 
prominent  features,  and  the  beautiflil  architectural  con- 
struction of  the  windows,  arches,  and  doors.  There 
are  on  the  shores  several  fine  cliffs,  and  some  exten- 
sive beaches,  which  are  hard  enough  for  a  drive  when 
the  tide  is  out.  It  is  much  resorted  to  as  a  bathing 
place ;  for  the  English  and  Scotch  indulge  in  this 
luxury  much  more  than  our  northern  people.  They 
have  a  custom  at  which,  perhaps,  you  may  smile. 
They  disrobe  themselves  either  in  boxes  or  in  some  nook 
on  the  shore,  and  then  the  ladies,  and  sometimes  the  men, 
in  their  bathing  robes,  are  carried  into  the  water  by  two 
women,  and    suddenly  dropped,  from   an  idea   that  to 


LETTKR    LXXVni.  265 

go  in,  walking,  is  apt  to  produce  a  nish  of  blood  to  the 
head,  which  may  be  injurious.  Is  not  this  an  amusing 
conceit  ?  While  sitting  with  Miss  M.  on  the  cliff,  I  saw 
several  women  carried  in  and  dipped.  I  did  not  try  the 
experiment. 

Miss.  M.'s  rooms  are  delightful ;  two  drawing-rooms, 
opening  by  folding-doors  into  each  other,  filled  with  books, 
pictures,  and  busts  of  Homer,  Newton,  and  others,  and  one 
of  her  brother  James,  who  is  her  idol,  and  who  deserves, 
without  doubt,  a  place  among  the  sages.  He  is  minister 
at  Liverpool.  Then  she  has  a  variety  of  bijouterie  on 
her  tables,  with  all  the  necessary  apparatus  for  lounging, 
reading,  or  writing,  all  in  elegant  style.  She  has  an  en- 
graving which,  when  I  have  a  good  opportunity,  I  design 
to  send  to  you.  It  is  the  Jesus  Consolator,  our  Saviour 
surrounded  by  the  sick  and  afflicted  in  body  and  mind, 
to  whom  he  is  imparting  relief.  The  variety  of  figures 
and  of  expression  makes  it  extremely  interesting,  and 
one  which  I  think  you  would  highly  value.  I  am  told 
she  refers  to  it  in  her  book  of  "  Consolations  for  a  Sick 
Chamber  "  —  I  believe  that  is  the  title.  She  had  given 
up  all  expectation  of  writing  any  more,  but  if  her  health 
is  restored,  there  is  no  probability  that  her  pen  will  be 
idle.  Her  tongue  certainly  will  not,  for  her  powers  of 
conversation  are  extraordinary.  She  is  very  agreeable, 
full  of  information,  and  little  personal  matters  and  anec- 
dotes, which  are  quite  interesting.  These,  however,  I 
shall  never  commit  to  paper.  When  I  have  the  hap- 
piness of  seeing  you  all  again,  I  shall  open  my  budget, 
where  they  are  safely  stored.  Public  persons  in  their 
speeches  and  political  acts,  distinguished  authors  and 
writers  in  their  works,  preachers  and  actors  in  their 
23 


266         EUROPEAN  LIKE  AND  MANNERS. 

performances,  may  be  freely  spoken  of  and  criticized, 
but  any  approach  to  a  violation  of  private  confidence 
is  without  excuse.  Americans  have  here,  on  this 
account,  been  a  suspected  class  ;  but  I  am  far  from 
thinking  them  more  liable  to  reproach  in  this  matter  than 
others. 

I  came  from  Newcastle  to  Carlisle  yesterday,  hoping 
to  have  gone  on  fifty  miles  further,  but  here  the  convey- 
ance was  interrupted,  and  I  have  been  detained  nearly 
a  day.  The  conveyances  by  public  coaches  in  England 
are  really  not  so  convenient  as  ours.  You  can  always 
post  from  one  place  to  another,  but  this,  with  tolls  and 
fees,  costs  half  a  dollar  per  mile. 

The  town  here  is  now  crowded  with  people  to  attend 
the  races  and  wrestling  matches,  which  last  two  days, 
and  bring  in  their  train  all  sorts  of  profligacy.  I  went 
last  evening  to  a  strolling  theatre,  two  pence  admission. 
The  audience  were  of  the  very  lowest  class,  but  behaved 
decently,  and  parts  of  the  performance  were  in  toler- 
able style.  Though  there  was  a  great  deal  of  vul- 
garity, such  as  smoking  and  cracking  of  low  jokes,  yet 
there  was  neither  indecency  nor  profaneness  to  offend 
any  one.     Adieu. 


LETTER    LXXIX. 

Liverpool,  18th  October,  1844. 
My  Dear  A : 

I  WROTE  you  a  note  this  morning  with  a  conditional 

promise  that  1  would  write  a  longer  letter  this  evening. 


LETTER    LXXIX.  267 

The  great  objects  of  interest  have  of  late  been  the 
visit  of  the  Queen  to  Blair  Athol,  Tjord  Glenlyon's  seat 
in  Scotland,  and  the  visit  of  Louis  Philippe  to  the  English 
Court.  The  papers  have  been  full  of  them.  It  is  im- 
possible not  to  be  amused  with  the  idolatry  of  the  Eng- 
lish people  towards  the  royal  family,  though  T  believe 
much  more  appears  in  the  papers  than  is  really  felt  by 
the  people,  certainly  by  the  sensible  part  of  them.  As 
matters  now  are,  the  Prince  of  Wales  does  not  sneeze 
without  its  being  fully  recorded ;  and  even  the  track  of 
the  Queen's  foot  on  the  sand,  at  Kirkcaldie,  has  been 
carefully  measured,  the  length  and  breadth  recorded, 
and  a  cast  taken  of  it.  It  is  to  be  understood,  however, 
that  what  is  called  the  Court  Circular,  detailing  all  the 
movements  of  the  royal  family,  and  the  nobility  in  their 
train,  is  regularly  made  out  at  the  Palace,  and  paid  for 
as  an  advertisement,  and  so  likewise  are  the  movements 
of  any  of  the  aristocracy,  which  are  so  frequently  inserted 
in  the  newspapers. 

The  Queen  is  a  constantly  improving  character,  and 
daily  gains  upon  the  affections  of  her  people.  Her  visit 
to  Scotland  was  not  at  the  expense  of  Lord  Glenlyon. 
She  accepted  the  offer  of  his  castle  and  provided  for 
herself;  he  went  into  a  house  in  the  neighborhood,  and 
was  himself  occasionally  the  guest  of  the  Queen  in  his 
own  house. 

I  go  to  London  to-morrow,  and  am  to  attend  an  Ag- 
ricultural meeting  in  Essex  county  on  Wednesday,  and 
make  a  visit  of  two  or  three  days  at  Lord  Braybrooke's  ; 
thence  I  go  south,  and  get  back  to  London  by  middle  of 
November.     Adieu. 


268         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 


LETTER   LXXX. 

London,  31st  October,  1844. 
56  Charing  Cross. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  HAVE  here  a  thousand  things  to  interest  me ;  but, 
then,  place  the  magnet  which  way  you  will,  the  moment 
it  is  free,  it  returns  again  to  the  same  point ;  and  where 
my  affections  centre,  there  I  wish  to  be. 

It  may  be  well  said  of  England,  or  rather  of  Lon- 
don, that  a  man  who  goes  abroad,  to  make  a  call,  on 
business  or  pleasure,  must  calculate  generally  to  lose  a 
day  and  spend  a  sovereign.  However,  one  month  more 
finishes  all  my  travelling  in  England.  After  my  present 
engagements  are  fulfilled,  I  make  no  more,  though  hun- 
dreds are  offered  me. 

On  Monday  evening  I  came  to  London,  about  ten 
o'clock,  and  left  the  next  day  at  noon  for  Saffron-Wal- 
den,  on  a  visit  to  Lord  Braybrooke,  to  meet  an  agri- 
cultural society  on  Wednesday.  I  hesitated  about 
accepting  the  invitation,  which  was  sent  to  me  in 
Scotland,  because  I  did  not  know  Lord  Braybrooke  — 
but  most  happy  was  I  that  I  went.  I  met  a  large  party 
of  gentlemen  and  ladies  in  the  house,  several  of  whom  I 
know,  and  almost  all  persons  of  rank  and  distinction.  I 
never  have  had  a  more  pleasant  visit.  This  is  among 
the  oldest  families  in  the  kingdom,  and  goes  back  to  the 
beginning  of  the  sixteenth  century.  T^je  castle  called 
Audley  End,  is  of  great  antiquity.  The  entrance  hall  is 
filled  with  antique  objects  of  curiosity  ;  and  two  rooms 


LETTER    LXXX.  269 

form  a  museum  of  natiu'al  history,  especially  rich  in 
ornithology,  made  up  in  general  by  collections  of  his 
lordship's  oldest  son.  The  birds  are  finely  preserved, 
and  the  collection  of  humming-birds  numerous  and  vari- 
ous beyond  what  I  could  have  imagined,  and  of  exquisite 
beauty.  The  party  consisted  of  about  twenty  gentlemen 
and  ladies,  and  every  thing  about  and  in  the  house  was 
most  sumptuous  and  elegant.  The  tables  embraced 
every  luxury  in  profusion,  and  the  adornments  with 
flowers,  &c.,  &;c.,  were  tasteful  and  beautiful.  But  I 
have  not  time  to  describe  them.  Occasionally  my  mind 
and  heart  were  full  of  the  striking  contrast  which  I  had 
so  recently  passed  through,  of  the  Irish  cabin,  and  the 
splendors  and  refinements  with  which  I  was  then  sur- 
rounded. 

On  Wednesday  we  attended  a  large  agricultural  meet- 
ing and  dinner,  where,  contrary  to  my  wishes  and  hopes, 
I  was  compelled  to  respond  to  the  toast  —  "  Mr.  Col- 
man's  health,  and  prosperity  to  the  United  States,"  with 
three  times  three  cheers  and  one  more.  My  remarks  are 
in  a  paper  which  I  send  you.  They  are  not  very  well 
reported,  but  they  might  have  been  worse,  and  I  hope 
will  not  displease  you.  I  have  refused  several  invita- 
tions lest  I  should  be  called  up.  On  Friday  afternoon 
Mr.  Pym,  one  of  the  most  respectable  men  in  the  coun- 
try, took  me  in  his  carriage  to  pass  the  night  with  Mr. 
Adeane,  a  large  proprietor,  whose  estate  consists  of 
about  two  thousand  five  hundred  acres.  He  has  no  title, 
but  is  a  highly  educated  gentleman.  I  have  seen  sev- 
eral large  establishments,  but  as  to  order  and  arrangement, 
I  think  I  have  never  seen  so  complete  a  place.  I  do 
not  believe  there  ever  was  more  perfect  housekeepincr,  in 


270        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

elegance,  neatness,  and  good  taste ;  but  good  house- 
keeping is  characteristic  of  all  England.  I  wish  I  could 
have  given  you  a  peep  into  my  bed-chamber ;  but  I 
must  tell  you  about  it  when  I  return.  I  expected 
nothing  less  than  three  or  four  servants  to  put  me  into 
bed,  and  see  that  my  bed  clothes  were  smooth  and  in 
order.  There  is  a  large  family  of  children,  —  the  two  eld- 
est girls,  of  fifteen  years,  twins  —  my  heart  was  touched 
at  sight  of  their  bright  and  cheerful  faces.  Besides  the 
family,  there  were  at  morning  prayers,  twenty  servants ; 
eleven  servant  maids,  dressed  alike,  in  a  style  of  the  most 
simple,  and  I  may  say,  elegant  neatness  —  exclusive  of 
governess,  housekeeper,  music-teacher,  &;c.  Prayers 
here,  once  a  day,  are  universal.  At  Audley  End,  we 
attended  in  a  chapel,  one  of  the  handsomest  rooms  of  its 
size  I  have  seen,  with  altar,  organ,  chaplain  in  his  robes, 
—  the  servants  in  livery,  by  themselves,  —  the  servants 
out  of  livery,  by  themselves — the  ladies  and  guests  in 
a  high  pew,  which  would  conveniently  seat  fifty  persons. 
On  Saturday  night  I  came  to  town,  wishing  to  see  the 
Queen  open  the  Exchange  on  Monday.  It  was  a  most 
ostentatious  and  gorgeous  exhibition.  Sunday  I  went 
with  my  friends,  the  Peabodys,  to  Greenwich,  to  attend 
church,  but  neglecting  to  carry  an  order  we  could  not 
obtain  admittance ;  in  the  morning  to  Rag  Fair,  and  on 
our  return  we  stopped  at  the  Thames  Tunnel.  On  Mon- 
day we  all  went  to  the  grand  procession  ;  the  people  in  the 
street  were  almost  as  thick  as  the  wooden  pavements, 
but  no  quarrelling  or  disorder.  Wednesday,  I  showed 
my  friends  Westminster  Abbey,  Covent  Garden  market, 
the  Arcades,  and  went  to  Dulwich  to  see  the  Gallery  of 
Paintings.     Thursday  afternoon,  I  went  with  them  to 


LETTER    LXXXI.  271 

see  Mrs.  Lawrence's  beautiful  villa  and  grounds,  having 
previously  procured  a  ticket  of  admission. 

To-morrow  I  leave  at  seven  for  Cornwall,  to  visit  my 
excellent  friends,  the  Pendarvescs,  who  have  done  every 
thing  for  me  that  people  could  do.  I  go  to  see  Lord 
Ducie's  pattern  farm.  I  go  into  Gloucester  to  leam 
something  about  cheese,  the  very  thing  you  say  Mr. 
Bryant  wishes  to  know.  I  have  to  visit  a  great  agricul- 
tural implement-maker ;  and  I  have  been  honored  with 
an  invitation  to  visit  the  Duke  of  Bedford,  at  Woburn 
Abbey,  where,  of  all  places,  I  most  wished  to  go.  I 
have  had  some  invitations  for  Christmas  holidays,  but  I 
fear  I  cannot  accept  them.  Mr.  Pusey  wishes  me  to 
come  there  to  meet  the  Chevalier  Bunsen,  one  of  the 
first  scholars  in  Europe,  and  a  party. 

I  am  sorry  you  did  not  like  the  Limerick  gloves. 
You  must  be  very  difficult,  since  they  are  deemed 
the  very  finest  that  can  grace  the  hands  of  royalty  — 
nothing  of  the  kind  is  to  be  compared  with  them  for 
fineness.     Adieu. 


LETTER   LXXXL 

Pendarves,  near  Truro, 
West  Cornwall,  IGth  Novoiuber,  ISll. 
My  Dear  M : 

As  I  go  this  afternoon  to  Penzance,  near  Land's  End, 
(see  the  map.)  I  am  afraid  if  I  do  not  write  from  here  I 
may  miss  the  mail. 

I    write    in    a    state    of   great    excitement,  and    ran 


272         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

scarcely  hold  my  pen.  First  let  me  thank  God  that  I 
am  well,  certainly  in  body  ;  of  the  mind,  I  am  not  so 
confident.  This  morning  at  ten  o'clock  I  went  down 
into  a  copper  mine,  six  hundred  feet  below  the  surface, 
and  have  been  for  several  hours  travelling  miles  under 
ground.  The  descent  and  ascent  were  by  ladders,  and 
the  fatigue  excessive ;  but  I  have  never  had  such  sights 
and  such  sensations  before.  My  head  is  full,  my  heart 
is  full.  I  was  awake  two  or  three  nights,  thinking 
of  the  adventure — no  small  enterprise  to  a  novice. 
This  morning  I  would  have  abandoned  it,  but  that  I  was 
ashamed  to  go  back.  I  have  seen  the  whole.  You  can 
travel  seven  miles  in  a  direct  line,  that  is,  in  extent, 
under  ground.     But  I  have  no  time  to  add  any  thing 

now.     Say  to   E I  shall  send  him  by  the  first  good 

chance,  a  piece  of  copper  ore  dug  by  myself,  six 
or  seven  hundred  feet  below  the  surface,  that  is, 
four  times  the  length  of  Park  Street  steeple  below 
ground. 

Never  were  kinder  people  than  where  I  have  been  stay- 
ing —  the  Pendarveses.  Two  nights  I  have  been  at 
Lady  Bassett's.  They  wished  me  to  stay  until  Christmas, 
and  urge  me  to  promise  them  another  visit,  but  I  cannot 
do  it.  I  am  tired  of  saying  how  elegantly,  how  mag- 
nificently people  live.  It  seems  to  me  I  am  never  to 
reach  the  end.  I  go  to  Penzance,  to  Col.  Scobell's, 
to-night.  Monday  I  visit  the  Land's  End.  Tuesday  I 
take  the  steamer,  if  the  weather  is  favorable,  for  Bristol. 
From  Bristol  I  go  to  Lord  Ducie's,  the  Hon.  Rev.  Mr. 
Talbot's,  Mr.  Holland's,  the  Duke  of  Bedford's,  and  then 
to  London.  This  ends  my  English  visits,  for  there  must 
be  an  end.      I  have  fifty  most  desirable  invitations  that 


LETTER    LXXXII.  '273 

I  must  refuse,  because  they  would  bring  with  liieiu  fifty 
more,     I  will  write  aiiain  this  eveninf^.     Adieu. 


LETTER   LXXXII. 

Pendarves,  Cornwall,  17th  November,  1S44. 
My  Deab.  a : 

No  church  for  me  to-day.  I  have  no  joints,  and  my 
muscles,  after  yesterday's  adventures,  seem  to  be  made 
of  oak,  and  the  skin  is  scraped  off  my  feet,  with  the 
wooden  shoes  they  made  me  wear,  without  stockings, 
in  my  descent  into  the  mine,  —  so  that  I  propose  a  little 
talk  with  you,  which,  after  all,  may  be  quite  as  edifying, 
and  perhaps  more  agreeable,  than  a  sermon. 

I  wrote  you  that  I  had  seen  ,  and  his  chamiing 

family.  What  a  sweet  woman  she  is,  and  what  lovely 
girls  are  the  daughters  !  I  left  him  in  London  a  week 
ago  last  Friday,  and  went  on  that  morning  to  Corn- 
wall, about  three  hundred  miles.  I  reached  Bristol 
by  rail  the  first  night,  Exeter  the  second  day  at  twelve, 
and  then  found,  do  my  best,  I  could  not  reach  Truro, 
until  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  nor  Pendarves, 
where  my  friends  lived,  to  whom  my  visit  was  intended, 
until  Monday  ;  therefore,  I  concluded  to  alter  my 
route,  and  visit  Lord  Hatherton  and  family,  then 
staying  at  Torquay,  near  Torbay,  (see  map,)  a  cel- 
ebrated watering  place,  on  account  of  his  daughter's 
health.  He  knew  I  was  going  to  Cornwall,  and  had 
written    to    me    to    come    there,    without    fail,    either 


274  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

going  or  returning.  I  arrived  there  Saturday  afternoon, 
and  put  up  at  the  hotel,  but  that  would  not  do,  so  they 
sent  immediately  for  my  luggage,  and  told  me  I  must 
stay  the  week,  and  give  up  my  visit  to  Cornwall,  and 
let  them  have  the  time.  That,  however,  could  not  be 
done,  but  I  determined  to  stay  until  Tuesday,  and  then 
they  said  it  must  be  Thursday  ;  but  I  compromised  the 
matter,  and  decided  to  leave  on  Wednesday.  It  is 
impossible  persons  should  be  kinder  than  they  were,  and 
from  the  manner  in  which  they  treat  me,  you  might 
infer  that  I  was  one  of  the  family.  Sunday,  after 
church,  as  Lord  Hatherton  was  indisposed.  Lady  Hath- 
erton  offered  to  be  my  cicerone,  and  walked  with  me 
several  miles,  about  these  most  beautiful  and  picturesque 
shores.  On  Sunday  night,  the  Bishop  of  Exeter,  whose 
country  residence  is  here,  and  whom  I  had  met  at  several 
places  in  London,  and  who  begged  me  to  visit  him 
when  I  came  this  way,  sent  for  Lord  and  Lady  Hather- 
ton and  myself,  to  dine  with  him  on  Monday.  On 
Monday  forenoon.  Lord  Hatherton,  the  Bishop,  and 
myself,  took  a  walk  of  four  hours,  and  on  Tuesday,  of 
six  hours,  around  these  beautiful  shores.  The  gen- 
tlemen were  full  of  anecdote  and  interesting  reminis- 
cences, making  the  time  pass  most  agreeably.  On 
Wednesday  morning,  as  I  was  to  start  very  early,  Lord 
Hatherton  sent  for  me  into  his  dressing-room,  to  urge  me 
to  come  back  that  way,  on  my  return  from  Cornwall, 
and  make  them  another  visit,  but  that  I  cannot  do.  I 
mention  it  to  show  their  kindness. 

On  Wednesday,  I  rode  to  Plymouth,  thirty-six  miles, 
through  a  most  picturesque  country,  but  could  go  no 
farther,  on   account  of  the  aiTangement  of  the  coaches. 


LETTER    LXXXII.  275 

until  the  next  day  at  ten.  Plymouth,  however,  in  its 
docks,  forts,  and  breakwater,  he,  he,  was  exceedingly 
interesting.  On  Thursday,  I  proceeded  to  Truro,  fifty 
miles,  through  a  pelting  rain.  I  never  knew  it  rain 
harder.  I  was  outside  the  coach,  and  supposed  I  was 
tolerably  well  sheltered.  When,  however,  I  got  off  the 
coach  at  Truro,  I  found  myself  wet  entirely  through 
and  dripping.  A  comfortable  fire  and  supper,  however, 
presently  restored  me.  It  was  a  most  rainy  and  tem- 
pestuous night.  On  Friday,  the  weather  was  still 
cloudy,  but  not  wet,  and  I  went  on,  by  one  conveyance 
and  another,  fourteen  miles,  to  Pendarves,  the  name  of 
the  residence  of  my  friends.  They  had  sent  their  car- 
riage two  days  to  the  station,  for  me,  and  had  nearly 
given  me  up.  Nothing  could  be  more  hearty  than  the 
welcome  I  received.  The  house  was  full  of  company, 
—  gentlemen  and  ladies  invited  to  meet  me.  Never  were 
kinder  people,  and  the  house  contained  every  provision 
for  comfort  of  the  body  and  the  recreation  and  gratifica- 
tion of  the  mind.  I  told  them  they  must  give  me  a  few 
hours  to  myself  in  the  morning,  and  I  would  be  at  their 
service,  after  lunch,  at  two  o'clock.  The  woman  came 
in  every  morning,  at  half-past  six,  to  make  my  fire,  and 
the  servant  to  bring  my  clothes,  neatly  bmshed,  soon 
after,  so  that  I  had  some  time  for  reading  and  writing 
before  breakfast  at  half-past  nine.  There  was  no  want 
of  books,  had  I  not  been  supplied,  for  Mr.  Pendarves's 
private  library  contains  more  than  six  thousand  volumes, 
all  catalogued.  I  passed  from  Friday  until  Thursday 
evening  with  them.  They  invited  me  to  stay  until 
Christmas ;  but  that  could  not  be.  On  Thursday  eve- 
ning, I  went  to  dine  at  Lady  Bassett's,  (a  peeress  in  her 


276  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

own  right,)  living  in  the  neighborhood,  whose  invitation 
to  visit  I  had  received  sometime  before  in  London,  and 
who  I  found  had  waylaid  me  at  Mr.  Pendarves's.  I  wish 
I  could  give  you  an  account  of  my  visit  here,  but  I  fear 
my  letters  will  tire  you.  I  left  them  on  Saturday 
morning,  with  a  promise  that,  if  it  should  storm  on 
Tuesday,  so  that  I  could  not  take  the  boat  for  Bristol,  I 
would  return  there,  they  kindly  expressing  the  hope  that 
it  would  certainly  storm,  so  as  to  drive  me  back.  Every 
thing  here  was  elegant.  Many  persons  were  staying 
in  the  house,  and,  among  others,  a  most  accomplished 
woman  and  her  daughter,  Mrs.  Abel,  formerly  resident 
at  St.  Helena.  Bonaparte  lodged  at  her  house  three 
months,  while  his  own  residence  was  in  preparation, 
and  she,  a  little  gay  girl,  was  his  special  favorite.  She 
has  published  an  account  of  her  intimacy  with  Napo- 
leon, in  a  journal,  which  is  interesting  and  well  written. 
She  and  her  daughter  played  and  sung  together  —  I  have 
heard  nothing  of  the  kind  superior.  There  were  sev- 
eral other  persons  present  —  among  others,  an  agree- 
able and  intelligent  Episcopal  clergyman.    I  have  already 

recounted  my  visit  to  the  mine,  in  my  letter  to  Mr. 

and  your  mother.  In  the  afternoon,  I  came  here,  on  a 
visit  to  Col.  Scobell,  formerly  in  the  army,  but  for  several 
years  an  extensive  farmer  in  this  vicinity  —  a  man  of 
great  urbanity  and  intelligence,  and  with  a  most  kind 
family.  I  found  a  party  invited  to  meet  me  at  dinner, 
at  seven  o'clock  last  evening,  but  owing  to  some  negli- 
gence of  the  coaches,  I  did  not  reach  here  until  eight. 
Their  carriage  had  been  waiting  an  hour  for  me  in  the 
town.  To-moiTOw  he  carries  me  to  Land's  End,  to  see 
all  that  is  to  be  seen  ;  and  in  order  to  accomplish  all  that 


LETTER     LXXXIII,  277 

can  be  done  in  a  single  day,  he  has  arranged  to  have 
three  relays  of  post-horses  on  the  route.  Is  not  this 
attention  with  a  witness  ?  I  cannot  be  grateful  enough 
for  the  kindness  I  have  received  everywhere.  Nothing 
seems  possible  to  exceed  it.  As  to  the  elegancies  with 
which  this  class  of  people  here  are  surrounded,  I  need 
say  nothing  farther.  Lady  Bassett,  though  a  single 
lady,  provides  a  dinner  for  fifty  people  in  the  house 
every  day,  or  rather,  including  servants,  has  that  number 
to  dine,  upon  an  average,  the  whole  year.  She  and 
Mrs.  Pendarves  have,  both  of  them,  large  waiting-rooms 
fitted  up  for  the  poor,  who  come  to  them  for  charity, 
which  they  dispense  most  liberally.     Adieu. 


LETTER    LXXXIIL 

Penzance,  Cornwall,  17tli  November,  1844. 
My  Deak  Sir: 

I  WROTE  to  Mrs.  C a  hurried  line  yesterday.     I 

send  this  for  the  purpose  of  giving  you  some  account 
of  my  visit  yesterday  to  one  of  the  mines  of  Corn- 
wall. This  county  is  in  the  district  of  mines,  and  its 
whole  territory  seems  to  be  underlaid  with  copper  and 
tin,  much  of  it  of  the  richest  kind,  as  you  may  infer 
from  the  fact  that  a  cubic  fathom  of  the  ore  upon  which 
I  saw  the  miners  at  work  yesterday,  would,  it  was 
judged,  yield  £100  in  value.  For  miles  and  miles 
after  you  enter  the  country,  the  surface  is  broken, 
presenting  the  appearance  of  immense  piles  of  gravel 
and  sand  ;  it  is  studded  all  over  with  water-wheels 
24 


278  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

and  immense  steam-engines,  which  are  constantly  ele- 
vating and  depressing  their  gigantic  arms  in  pumping 
the  mines ;  and  the  streams  of  water  pouring  out  in 
different  directions  from  the  "  adits  "  of  the  mines,  are 
colored  with  the  ore,  like  blood. 

I  came  here  to  visit  my  friends  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Pendarves. 
Mr.  P.  is  a  large  proprietor.  One  of  his  mines  within 
the  last  twenty  years  has  yielded  him  £80,000.  He  has 
been  a  member  of  Parliament  for  many  years.  They 
were  anxious  that  I  should  see  the  mining  district ; 
and  since  I  have  been  in  England  they  have  treated  me 
with  such  extraordinary  kindness,  that  I  felt  it  would 
be  hardly  right  for  me  to  quit  England  without  visiting 
them,  and  I  had  likewise  a  great  desire  to  do  it.  I 
came  here  about  ten  days  since ;  and  have  found 
much  to  be  seen  interesting  in  an  agricultural  view,  as 
well  as  in  other  respects.  After  seeing  the  mining 
country  generally,  it  was  proposed  a  week  ago,  that  I 
should  explore  one  of  the  richest  copper  mines,  and 
rather  incautiously  I  agreed  to  the  project,  which  was  to 
be  carried  into  execution  on  the  coming  Saturday.  After 
engaging  to  do  it,  I  had  a  dozen  minds  to  abandon  the 
project,  and  for  two  or  three  nights  I  got  very  little  sleep, 
from  the  apprehension  of  what  I  was  to  go  through  ;  I 
felt,  indeed,  very  much  like  a  condemned  criminal,  who 
was  looking  forward  to  his  execution.  I  dare  say  you 
will  smile  at  this  ;  and  the  idea  that  I  should  think  so 
much  of  what  hundreds  of  men  do  every  day  of  their 
lives  without  thinking  at  all  of  it,  may  amuse  you  ;  but 
to  a  novice  and  a  landsman,  it  was  no  small  affair  to 
descend  by  a  ladder  in  utter  darkness,  into  the  bowels  of 
the  earth  six  or  seven  hundred   feet  below  the  surface. 


LETTER    LXXXin. 


279 


The  morning  however  came,  and  after  having  said  my 
prayers  and  eaten  a  very  imperfect  and  hurried  breakfast, 
I  left  for  the  mine,  and  reached  there  at  half-past  nine 
with  my  heart  in  my  mouth,  wishing  that  almost  any 
thing  could  happen,  that  I  should  not  be  obliged  to  go 
down.  But  there  was  no  alternative,  and  I  proceeded 
to  prepare  myself.  First,  every  article  of  clothing  was 
to  be  taken  off,  and  I  must  put  on  a  flannel  shirt,  flannel 
drawei-s,  canvass  trousers,  canvass  jacket,  cow-hide 
shoes  without  any  stockings,  a  white,  flat  hat,  which 
seemed  to  me  to  be  made  of  board,  and  resembled  a 
barber's  washbasin  inverted,  and  above  all,  a  white 
nightcap.  The  white  nightcap,  which  came  down  to 
my  eyes,  with  the  exception  of  the  black  bows,  seemed  to 
me  so  much  like  the  cap  which  was  to  be  drawn  over  the 
eyes  before  the  poor  fellows  were  swung  off,  that  I  really 
felt  very  much  like  one  being  led  to  execution.  A  candle 
was  then  put  into  my  hands  stuck  in  a  piece  of  clay,  which 
we  lighted  at  the  mouth  of  the  shaft,  and  with  one  man 
with  a  candle  before,  and  another  after,  we  proceeded  to 
descend.  "  Hold  on,"  was  the  cry  ;  "  take  care  of  your 
candle  ; "  "  mind  your  steps  ;  "  "  grasp  the  round  of  the 
ladder; "  "  put  your  foot  on  the  round  before  you  let  go 
your  hand,"  were  the  exhortations  continually  given,  and 
sufficiently  startling,  when  you  felt  that  a  single  mis-step 
or  the  breaking  of  a  single  round,  might  send  you  down 
into  unfathomable  darkness,  from  whence  there  would  be 
no  ascent.  There  were  occasional  platforms  on  which 
the  different  ladders  rested,  where  we  took  breath,  but 
the  greatest  care  was  requisite  in  order  to  reach  the 
next  ladder  in  safety ;  and  at  repeated  intervals,  we  saw 
immense  caverns  or  drifts,  ofl^  at  the  sides,  and  penetrating 


280         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

to  unknown  depths.  At  last,  when  we  had  descended 
between  six  and  seven  hundred  feet,  the  guide  said  here 
we  would  quit  the  shaft,  and  commence  our  horizontal 
explorations.  We  left  the  ladders  and  then  took  a  side 
cut  by  a  passage  which  we  traversed  —  so  low  that  we 
were  obliged  to  keep  our  heads  as  low  as  our  hips  —  dark, 
damp,  and  dismal,  sometimes  crossing  a  pile  of  broken 
stones;  at  others,  crossing  on  planks  over  holes  of 
unknown  depth,  with  many  cautions  to  "  look  out," 
when  there  was  nothing  to  look  at  but  those  deep  pits 
and  caverns ;  occasionally  coming  to  open  chambers, 
where  we  could  stand  erect ;  at  other  times,  to  crevices, 
where  only  a  man  of  moderate  dimensions  could  wrig- 
gle through  plank-fashion  ;  at  other  times,  to  holes 
where  you  could  only  pass  upon  your  hands  and  knees, 
sometimes  stumbling  among  rubbish,  sometimes  going 
over  shoes  in  water.  When  at  last,  in  a  sort  of  lofty 
chamber,  we  sat  ourselves  down  to  rest,  we  soon  heard 
at  a  distance,  the  rumbling  of  a  carriage,  like  far  off 
thunder,  and  a  loaded  rail-car  was  driven  by  us  by  men 
with  torches  in  their  hands,  half  clad,  and  so  black, 
with  their  eyes  shining  like  cats'  eyes  in  the  dark,  that 
they  looked  like  children  who  had  never  known  any 
other  home  than  these  infernal  regions.  So  we  pursued 
our  way  through  one  crevice  and  another,  one  dark 
chamber  and  another,  over  one  frightful  hole  and  another ; 
sometimes  ascending  and  descending  wooden  ladders ; 
sometimes  upon  rope  ladders  which  could  not  be  held 
still,  and  which  left  you  swinging  over  these  fright- 
ful abysses,  occasionally  hearing  at  vast  distances  the 
pecking  of  the  miners,  occasionally  seeing  far  off  in  the 
extended  and  dark  galleries,  sometimes  fifty  feet  above 


LETTER    LXXXIII.  281 

you  and  sometimes  as  far  below  you,  parties  of  miners 
with  their  candles  stuck  upon  the  walls,  beatin<>;  and 
breaking  and  drilling  the  hard  stones,  and  looking  I  can 
hardly  tell  you  like  what ;  and  sometimes  in  our  long 
walks  passing  several  parties  of  these  inhabitants  of  the 
lower  regions  ;  sometimes  meeting  a  single  one,  so  black 
and  looking  so  different  from  any  thing  you  see  above, 
that  you  start  back  from  him  with  a  sort  of  instinctive 
shudder  ;  when,  after  awhile,  we  were  ordered  to  stand 
still.  Then  began  a  discharge  of  successive  and  temfic 
explosions,  (the  charges  for  which,  had  been  ordered  to 
be  kept  until  I  was  near  enough  to  hear  them,  and  at  the 
same  time  secure  from  injury.)  At  first  the  cry  ran 
through  the  mines,  "  take  care,  take  care,"  which,  with- 
out seeing  any  person,  you  heard  repeated  from  one  to 
the  other,  until  the  sound  seemed  to  die  away  at  an 
almost  immeasurable  distance,  and  you  heard  the  miners 
everywhere  dropping  their  tools  and  preparing  for  the 
blast ;  then  came  a  tremendous  explosion,  which  seemed 
directly  under  our  feet ;  then  another  and  another  in 
quick  succession  ;  then  several  at  once,  which  you  heard 
echoed  and  re-echoed,  as  the  reverberation  passed  along 
through  the  deep  and  distant  galleries  ;  and  then  the 
whole  seemed  to  be  answered  by  a  general  discharge  so 
far  off  that  the  sound  appeared  scarcely  audible.  The 
mine  now  became  full  of  smoke  ;  the  heat  below  was 
very  great,  certainly  as  high  as  eighty  degrees,  and  it 
had  grown  hotter  and  hotter.  My  breathing  now  was 
very  difficult,  and  I  felt  quite  faint,  but  did  not  dare 
complain.  After  having  traversed,  for  aught  I  know, 
miles  under  ground  in  this  way,  and  seen  the  whole 
process  of  getting  out  the  ore,  it  was  determined  to 
24* 


282        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

return  to  the  sliaft  and  coinmence  the  ascent.  This  we 
reached  after  awhile  —  how  found  by  the  guides,  heaven 
only  knows,  for  I  myself  had  no  more  idea  in  what 
direction  we  were  going,  than  if  I  had  been  utterly  blind. 
The  ascent  was  extremely  laborious,  and  had  it  not 
been  for  the  successive  rests,  I  believe  I  should  have 
given  up  in  despair,  and  taken  the  fatal  plunge.  I 
cannot  tell  you  how  grateful  I  was  when  it  was 
announced  that  day-light  could  nov/  be  seen  ;  and  still 
more  so  when  I  stepped  from  the  top  round  of  the  ladder 
in  broad  day  light,  and  felt  myself  once  more  upon  the 
surface  of  the  earth.  My  first  impulse  was  to  thank 
God  for  my  safety  ;  never  was  any  poor  wretch  who  had 
been  reprieved  at  the  foot  of  the  scaffold,  more  thankful ; 
my  second  was  to  look  at  myself,  and  admire  my  own 
appearance ;  my  third  was  to  enjoy  the  shouts  of  laugh- 
ter of  the  workmen,  men  and  women  above  ground,  who 
saw  me  emerge,  looking  like  the  very  d — I  himself,  and 
of  Mr.  Pendarves,  who  had  been  waiting  until  he  had 
almost  given  us  up  in  despair,  to  see  me  come  out.  A 
good  warm  bath,  a  thorough  ablution  in  a  warm  room, 
and  some  clean  clothes,  soon  made  "  Richard  himself 
again."  I  would  not  have  missed  the  enterprise  upon 
any  account,  had  I  known  previously  what  it  was  ;  but 
I  hardly  know  what  would  induce  me  to  repeat  it,  and 
thus  ends  my  mining  experience.  There  are  seven 
hundred  people  at  work  in  this  mine,  and  there  is  a 
population  of  eighty  thousand  miners  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. The  life  which  these  poor  fellows  lead,  is 
certainly  hard  enough ;  and  yet  they  prefer  it  "  to 
going  to  grass,"  as  they  term  working  upon  the  land. 
The  time  employed  in  actual  mining,  is  about  eight  hours 


LETTER    LXXXiri. 


283 


in  twenty-four ;  but  including  the  time  taken  up  in 
ascending  and  descending,  in  dressing  and  washing,  and 
in  taking  care  of  their  tools,  they  are  occupied  about 
twelve  hours.  Their  regular  wages  are  about  ten  shil- 
lings per  week  ;  but  as  they  often  take  jobs  or  work  upon 
tribute,  as  it  is  called,  having  a  certain  per  centage  upon 
the  sales  of  their  ore,  they  sometimes  make  several 
pounds  per  week,  if  they  happen  to  get  a  good  ''  pitch," 
as  they  tenn  it.  This,  ho\\'ever,  is  of  course  wholly 
uncertain.  Their  lives  are  shortened  by  their  labor,  and 
they  seldom  live  beyond  forty-five  years.  Many  of  them 
are  destroyed  by  various  accidents.  On  coming  out, 
they  have  always  a  warm  bath  and  clean  clothes  to  put 
on  ;  but  as  they  have  families  to  provide  for,  on  their 
small  wages,  they  are  compelled  to  live  very  meanly, 
seldom  getting  meat,  and  no  tea,  or  coffee,  or  butter. 
Many  of  them  are  tee-totalers  ;  but  the  state  of  morals 
here  in  some  other  respects,  is  said  to  be  most  deplorable. 
England  and  Scotland  in  every  part,  among  the  lower 
classes,  (L-eland  is  an  exception,)  must  be  said,  in  respect 
to  dissoluteness,  to  be  rotten  to  the  core. 

I  thought  you  would  feel  an  interest  in  my  mining 
adventures,  but  I  am  afraid  I  have  made  them  tedious  to 
you.  This  is  an  interesting  country,  and  from  what  I 
have  seen  of  the  people,  they  seem  from  their  dialect  and 
many  of  their  customs  to  be  clear  Marbleheaders.  Thus 
they  say  born,  for  bam  ;  cort,  for  cart ;  shaw,  for  show  ; 
and  their  grammar  is  a  protracted  murder  of  the  King's 
English  by  inches. 

I  came  on  here  last  evening,  to  visit  by  particular 
invitation  of  Col.  Scobell,  some  extraordinary  agricultural 
improvements.     To-morrow   I  go  to  Land's  End,  and 


284         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

as  it  will  be  economical  both  of  time  and  money,  I 
shall,  unless  the  weather  is  tempestuous  on  Tuesday, 
take  the  steamer  to  Bristol,  where  I  expect  to  arrive  on 
Wednesday  morning.  My  expectation  is  to  return  to 
London  by  the  first  of  December,  and  not  leave  it  for  any 
length  of  time  until  my  Reports  of  English  Agriculture 
are  completed.      Yours  truly. 


LETTER    LXXXIV. 

EXTRACT. 

Painswick,  Gloucestershire,  2nd  December,  1844. 

I  AM  now  on  my  way  from  Bristol  and  Clifton.  The 
fields  in  many  places  are  as  green  as  in  summer,  and  the 
flowers,  the  roses,  the  laurels,  and  many  other  shrubs  are 
in  perfection.  Last  Friday  week  I  picked  ripe  strawber- 
ries from  the  vines  in  the  open  air,  and  we  had  ripe 
currants  and  strawberries  for  dessert  at  dinner,  and  ripe 
raspberries  also,  all  gathered  that  day.  I  cannot  say 
they  were  very  good,  for  at  this  advanced  season  they 
become  tasteless.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  shrubs 
which  I  have  seen  is  the  arbutus,  a  long  lane  of  which  I 
was  shown  the  other  day,  covered  with  its  crimson  and 
white  fruit  ;  I  never  saw  any  thing  of  the  kind  hand- 
somer. 


LETTER    LXXXV.  285 

LETTER    LXXXV. 

Paiiiswiok,  near  Gloucester,  2iid  December,  1S44. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  HAVE  not  yet  received  my  letters  by  the  steamer, 
but  I  must  not  let  a  boat  go  without  writing ;  though  let 
me  forewarn  you  not  to  give  yourself  anxiety,  should  such 
an  event  occur,  as  it  might  happen  for  twenty  reasons 
beyond  my  control. 

My  last  was  dated  at  Pendarves,  just  as  I  had  emerged 
from  a  deep  mine.  I  look  back  upon  the  expedition 
with  great  satisfaction,  now  that  it  is  accomplished  ;  but 
there  must  be  very  strong  inducements  to  lead  me  to  a 
repetition  of  the  adventure.  I  still  in  truth  feel  the 
effects  of  it ;  the  skin  is  not  yet  mended  on  my  feet ;  my 
muscles  are  somewhat  stiffened,  and  I  fancy  that  my 
breathing  is  not  quite  so  free  as  formerly ;  but  a  short 
time  will  put  all  things  right.  It  was,  however,  no 
small  affair  to  go  up  and  down  ladders  more  than  six  hun- 
dred feet  in  length,  holding  on  by  one  hand  and  carrying 
a  torch  in  the  other,  and  then  to  walk  and  clamber  and 
creep  and  crawl  two  miles  or  more  under  ground  after 
we  got  down.  But  what  do  the  poor  fellows  do,  to 
whom  much  more  than  this  is  a  daily  task,  and  seven 
hundred  of  whom  belong  to  this  single  mine,  some  of 
whom,  it  is  said,  have  to  descend  daily  more  than  twelve 
hundred  feet  to  their  work,  and  I  have  heard  it  stated 
in  some  cases  eighteen  hundred. 

After  leaving  the  mine  I  took  the  railroad  for  Pen- 
zance, to  visit  Col.  Scobell.     His  carriage  was  awaiting 


286  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

my  arrival,  and  I  soon  found  myself  in  a  most  agreeable 
and  polite  circle  of  friends.  He  himself  is  a  large  farmer 
and  improver,  has  seen  much  of  the  world,  and  is  full  of 
information,  and  kinder  people  I  never  knew.  They 
did  every  thing  for  me  in  their  power,  and  would  have 
done  twice  as  much  if  they  could. 

I  reached  there  on  Saturday  evening,  and  on  Sunday 
I  was  suffering  too  much  from  my  mining  expedition  to 
go  to  church.  On  Monday  I  rode  to  Land's  End,  and 
took  a  complete  tour  of  the  coast.  I  went  to  what  is 
designated  the  first  and  last  house  in  England.  It  was 
a  most  interesting  excursion.  I  went  to  one  of  the 
largest  copper  mines,  which  is  dug  a  long  way  under 
the  sea,  and  where  the  miners  hear  the  waves  dashing 
and  the  stones  rolling  over  their  heads,  but  did  not  de- 
scend into  it.  Land's  End,  the  extremity  of  the 
island  of  Great  Britain,  is  a  remarkable  spot ;  and  as 
I  stood  upon  the  very  point  of  the  cliff,  and  knew  that 
the  breezes  which  I  drank  in  came  fresh  from  my  own 
home,  I  imagined  that  they  came  freighted  with  all  kind 
affections,  and  my  heart  was  touched  and  my  eyes  were 
flooded.  How  much  I  wished  that  my  arm  could  reach 
you,  and  that  my  ear  could  once  more  hear  your  gentle 
and  affectionate  welcome. 

We  returned  at  night  to  another  dinner  party,  for 
each  day  Col.  Scobell  invited  company  to  meet  me. 
On  Tuesday  I  left  after  breakfast,  and  after  a  drive  of 
six  miles,  took  the  steamboat  for  Bristol.  This  was 
contrary  to  my  custom,  to  go  by  water  when  I  could  go 
by  land,  but  as  I  should  save  two  days  time,  I  pre- 
ferred it  rather  than  return  over  a  country  which  I  had 
already   passed.      The  steamboat  lay   near  St.  Iv^es,  a 


LETTER  LXXXV.  287 

fishing  village.  The  coast  here  is  occasionally  frequent- 
ed by  large  schools  of  pilchards,  a  small  fish,  which, 
when  dried,  forms  a  considerable  part  of  the  subsistence 
of  the  poor  during  the  winter.  On  this  day  a  large  body 
of  these  fish  swarmed  in  the  harbor,  and  the  inhabitants 
were  out  with  every  species  of  boat  and  every  kind  of 
net  for  the  purpose  of  taking  them.  I  was  assured  that 
the  value  of  the  fish  sometimes  taken  in  such  an  event, 
in  one  day,  frequently  amounts  to  £5,000  sterling,  and 
has  sometimes  amounted  to  £8,000  sterling.  The  scene 
was  highly  animated,  and  there  were  few  idle  or  unoc- 
cupied hands  in  St.  Ives  on  that  day. 

I  reached  Bristol  on  Wednesday  morning,  went  to 
Clifton,  three  miles,  to  deliver  some  letters,  dined  in  a 
large  party,  and  rested  at  a  comfortable  inn.  On  Thurs- 
day I  went  by  appointment  to  visit  W.  Miles,  Esq.  M.  P., 
at  King's  Western,  and  there  having  pitched  my  tent,  de- 
termined, by  his  kind  invitation,  to  wait  for  my  letters  from 
London.  Mr.  Miles's  place  is  magnificent ;  in  situation 
and  elegance  I  have  seen  nothing  to  surpass  it.  We 
had  a  very  large  dinner  party  of  gentlemen  and  ladies  in 
the  evening,  and  more  or  less  company  every  day  while 
I  remained  there,  staying  in  the  house. 

On  Monday  morning  I  returned  to  Bristol  from  King's 
Western,  on  the  coach,  at  an  early  hour,  and  to  give 
you  some  idea  of  the  density  of  an  English  fog,  I  have 
only  to  say  that  for  a  considerable  part  of  the  way  it 
was  so  thick  that  we  could  not  discern  the  houses  by 
the  road-side,  and  were  obliged  to  keep  ringing  a  bell 
to  give  notice  of  our  approach,  and  to  avoid  collision 
with  other  carriages. 

I  went  to  Bath,  one  of  the  pleasantest  towns  in  Eng- 
land, and  returned  again  to  Bristol,  and  took  the  rail  for 


288         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

Tortworth,  Lord  Ducie's  place,  where  I  had  been  ex- 
pected some  days,  and  where  I  was  received  in  the  most 
cordial  manner.  There  was  much  to  be  seen  here  to  in- 
terest me.  I  went  to  stay  one  night  and  they  kindly 
induced  me  to  stay  four,  and  exacted  a  promise  of  me 
to  repeat  my  visit.  Lord  Ducie's  conversation  is  distin- 
guished by  good  humor  and  sparkling  wit.  He  is  full  of 
agricultural  information ;  knows  every  thing  about  a 
farm ;  can  shear  a  sheep  or  hold  a  plough,  and  without 
ostentation  or  affectation,  can  adorn  the  highest  society. 
He  carried  me  over  his  extensive  establishment,  and  to 
several  of  the  principal  dairies  in  the  neighborhood,  and 
when  I  left  on  Friday  morning,  would  not  allow  me  to 
take  a  public  conveyance,  but  sent  me  on  seven  miles  to 
meet  another  gentleman,  who  had  appointed  to  take  me 
up  there.  I  never  left  a  house  with  a  more  grateful  sense 
of  kindness ;  and  there  was  no  abatement  whatever  to 
my  enjoyment,  but  that  I  could  not  impart  some  of  it  to 
you  at  home.  After  all  I  have  said,  it  is  very  difficult  to 
give  you  any  just  idea  of  the  elegance,  combined  with 
perfect  ease  and  freedom  of  these  houses,  and  the  com- 
forts with  which  they  are  filled.  If  I  were  a  younger 
man  I  believe  it  would  have  spoilt  me  ;  but  I  shall  re- 
turn to  my  humble  home,  if  so  Heaven  in  mercy  blesses 
me,  with  a  satisfaction  not  lessened,  but  even  increased 
by  what  I  have  here  seen  others  enjoy.  I  know  how 
"  sweet  is  even  a  dinner  of  herbs  where  love  is."  Ought 
it  not  even  to  make  me  happier,  to  see  any  good  and 
kind  people  enjoying  all  the  luxuries  and  elegancies 
which  wealth  and  taste  can  supply,  though  I  myself  can 
aspire  to  no  such  indulgences  ?  Their  enjoyment  of 
these  things  certainly  does  not  in  any  way  take  from 
mine. 


LETTER    LXXXV.  289 

At  the  place  of  the  great  agricultural  establishment 
for  the  manufacture  of  farming  implements,  Mr.  Hyett, 
formerly  member  of  Parliament,  met  me  by  appointment. 
He  had  written  to  me,  inviting  me  to  come  and  see  how 
a  retired  English  gentleman  lived.  He  had  engaged 
me  to  dine  at  Stroud,  with  a  large  party  of  ladies  and 

gentlemen,  on  my  way  to  his  house,  at  Mr.  S 's, 

a  retired  manufacturer,  and  had  provided  a  place  for 
me  to  dress  at  a  friend's  house  on  the  way.  To  go  to 
dinner  here,  without  being  in  full  dress,  would  be  a 
sad  mistake.  I  long  since  learned  that;  and  though 
in  staying  at  a  nobleman's  or  gentleman's  house,  he 
will  often  say  to  you,  "  you  need  not  dress  much,"  I 
have  found  the  only  safe  way  is  to  be  perfectly  well 
dressed,  for  so  always  you  are  sure  to  find  your  host  and 
his  company.  I  came  near,  in  one  case,  making  a  mis- 
take in  this  matter  which  would  have  been  mortifying. 
I  had  supposed  myself  invited  to  dine  only  with  two  or 
three  gentlemen  in  London,  and  thought  at  first  I  would 
go  without  much  alteration,  having  an  impression  that 
my  host  was  living  at  bachelor's  quarters.  My  good 
fortune,  however,  saved  me,  and  I  went  as  well  prepared 
as  /  could  be.  I  found,  on  going,  one  of  the  most  elegant 
houses  in  London,  and  a  brilliant  party  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen  of  the  highest  rank.  The  gentleman  was 
the  son  of  the  Archbishop  of  York,  and  there  I  met 
the  Rev.  Sydney  Smith,  whom  the  Pennsylvanians 
love  so  well.  My  rule,  therefore,  is  invariably  to  put 
myself  daily  in  the  best  condition,  humble  on  my 
part  as  it  must  be,  to  meet  any  and  everybody.  I  like 
the  practice.  You  may  dress  yourself  as  you  please 
in  the  morning,  wear  the  coarsest  clothes  and  the 
25 


290  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

thickest  shoes  —  a  checkered  shirt  and  a  tarpauHn  cap ; 
but  at  dinner,  which  is  seldom  before  seven  o'clock, 
every  one  appears  full  dressed,  which  is,  upon  the  whole, 
as  much  a  matter  of  comfort  and  satisfaction  to  the 
individual  himself,  as  it  is  of  proper  respect  to  the  com- 
pany whom  you  meet. 

We  had  six  miles  to  ride  after  dinner,  and  reached 
Painswick,  Mr.  Hyett's,  at  12  o'clock.  Nothing  need 
be  more  tasteful  than  this  whole  establishment.  The 
gentleman  is  of  high  education,  long  accustomed  to 
travel,  full  of  philanthropic  and  public  matters,  living  at 
ease  upon  his  fortune,  his  house  filled  with  fine  books, 
pictures,  statues,  and  works  of  art,  and  himself  a  man 
of  elegant  conversation  and  great  kindness.  I  hope 
to-morrow  before  I  leave,  to  get  my  American  letters. 
I  wish  sometimes  that  they  came  rather  accidentally  than 
regularly,  as  I  get  into  a  fever  and  sometimes  an  ague 
of  anxiety,  when  I  hear  that  they  have  arrived  and  I  must 
wait  a  week  to  get  them.  After  this  I  go  to  Woburn 
Abbey,  to  the  Duke  of  Bedford's.  This  must  finish  my 
travels  in  England,  though  I  have  two  letters  from  Sir 
Charles  Morgan,  in  Wales,  to  attend  his  cattle-show  on 
the  18th,  reminding  me  that  1  promised  to  do  it  last 
year.     Adieu. 


LETTER    LXXXVI.  291 


LETTER   LXXXVI. 

Londun,  56  Charing  Cross, 
31st  December,  1844. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  RECEIVED,  two  days  ago,  your  letter  of  the  15th.  I 
have  not  advanced  here  so  well  as  I  could  have  wished  ; 
that  is,  so  fast  as  I  could  have  wished.  I  have  three 
visits  more  to  make,  which  will  take  me  from  London  un- 
til the  16th.  Mr.  Pusey,  M.  P.,  has  invited  me  to  meet 
a  party  of  agricultural  gentlemen  at  his  house  on  the  4th. 
Lord  Hardwicke  has  invited  me  to  visit  him  in  Cambridge- 
shire on  the  7th,  and  as  it  is  a  repeated  and  most  agree- 
able appointment,  I  am  unwilling  to  decline.  The  Duke 
of  Bedford  has  honored  me  with  another  invitation,  and 
my  visit  is  fixed  there  for  the  12th.  These  are  all  agri- 
cultural visits  and  opportunities,  which  I  do  not  feel  it 
right  to  forego.  Indeed,  Woburn  Abbey,  the  residence 
of  the  Duke  of  Bedford,  is  said  to  be  the  place  in  Eng- 
land, of  all  others,  most  worth  my  visiting.  Earl  Fitz- 
william,  Earl  Talbot,  the  Earl  of  Dartmouth,  Lord  De 
Morley,  Lord  Ducie,  Lord  Aboyne,  Sir  John  Boileau, 
Sir  Harvey  Verney,  Mr.  Parkinson,  Mr.  Hobbes,  Mr. 
Ransome,  Mr.  Tonge,  Mr.  Holland,  Mr.  Arkwright,  Pro- 
fessor Henslow,  Mr.  Adeane,  Mr.  Pym,  and  several  of 
the  clergy  have  invited  me  to  visit  them,  and  not  only 
to  visit  but  to  pass  several  days,  and  in  some  cases, 
even  a  month,  promising  me  every  accommodation  for 
reading  or  writing,  or  amusing  myself;  but  I  am  obliged  to 


292         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

come  to  an  end,  or  I  should  never  get  through  my  work. 
The  Duke  of  Richmond,  Hkewise,  in  the  most  friendly 
manner,  desires  me  to  pass  a  few  days  with  him  again, 
whenever  I  will.  Indeed,  1  could  fill  a  sheet  with  invita- 
tions ;  a  year  would  not  suffice  to  meet  them  all.  You 
see  what  reason  I  have  to  be  grateful.  And  what  infinite 
reason  have  I  to  be  grateful  to  God  for  his  goodness, 
who  has  mercifully  preserved  my  life  and  health  through 
many  perils ;  has  crowded  into  so  short  a  space  of  time 
so  much  enjoyment ;  and  has  given  me,  I  hope,  if  my 
life  is  spared,  the  means  of  rendering  the  information 
which  I  have  acquired,  and  the  scenes  which  I  have 
passed  through,  a  source  of  pleasure  and  advantage  to 
others. 

I  hear  of  Judge  Prescott's  death  with  great  regret, 
and  yet  how  enviable  are  such  a  life  and  death.  I  never 
knew  a  more  estimable  man.  I  had  become  much 
acquainted  with  him,  and  every  interview  only  the 
more  strengthened  my  respect,  esteem,  and  veneration. 
Adieu. 


LETTER  LXXXVII. 

Loudon,  31st  December,  1844. 
My  Dear  A : 

I  BELIEVE  I  am  not  at  all  in  your  debt,  in  the  way  of 
letter-writing,  but  I  am  quite  willing  to  extend  your 
credit,  as  I  know,  in  due  time,  I  shall  get  my  pay. 

Last  week,  on  Monday,  I  returned  from  Wales,  and 
the  papers  which  I  send  to  your  mother,  and  the  silk 


LETTER    LXXXVII.  293 

printed  bills  of   the  show,  for  the  children,  will,  in   a 
measure,  explain  the  object  of  my  visit.     I  left  for  Bris- 
tol, on  Tuesday  morning,  the  17th  instant,  by  rail,  and 
arrived    at    eleven    o'clock,  and    then   took    steamboat, 
crossing  the  Severn  to  Newport,  and  putting  my  bag- 
gage on  a   van,  walked  three  miles   to  Tredegar,   the 
seat  of  Sir  Charles  Morgan  ;   this  estate  has  been  in  the 
family  for  more  than  two  centuries.     I  was    expected 
at  the  time,  and  was  cordially  welcomed.     The  house 
is  an  enormous    pile,   I  should    think   more  than    two 
hundred  feet  square,  with  a  large  court  in  the  centre  ; 
and  the  finishing  and  furnishing  are  all  comfortable  as 
possible,  and  elegant.     The  park,  in  which  the  house 
stands,  embraces    about    thirteen    hundred    acres,   with 
lakes,  and  noble  trees,  and  water-falls,  with  gardens  and 
conservatories,  and    shrubberies  and    greenhouses,  and 
besides  all  this,  the  princely  owner  has  five  hundred  ten- 
ants on  his  different  farms.     He  was    kind  enough  to 
show  me  every  part  of  his  establishment.     In  his  beer- 
cellar  there  were  only  thirty-seven  large  tierces  and  hogs- 
heads, each  of  them  containing  several  barrels  apiece, 
and  the  large  vats  containing  hogsheads.     His  wine  cel- 
lars were  almost  equally  spacious.     In    his    slaughter- 
house there  were    hanging  up  eight  sheep,  four    large 
hogs,  and  one  large  ox,  and  they  brought  in  another  to 
be  killed  the  next  day  ;    to  say  nothing  of  the  salted 
meats  in  the  dry-meat-house,  and  the  game,  pheasants, 
hares,  rabbits,  venison,  &.c.     He  has  a  herd  of  four  hun- 
dred deer  in  his  park,  and  kindly  gave  me  a  side  of  veni- 
son for  the  ladies  where  I  lodge,  half  of  which  I  gave  to 
them  on  Christmas  day,  and  the  other  half  I  sent  to  the 
minister  of  the  French  Protestant  Church,  where  I  usu- 
25* 


294  EUROPEAN    LIFE    aIID    MANNERS. 

ally  attend  in  London.  As  he  was  disposed  to  show 
me  every  thing,  he  was  also  kind  enough  to  give  me  a 
list  of  his  house  servants,  in  the  order  of  their  rank,  for 
they  are  quite  as  tenacious  and  observant  of  their  rank 
as  their  superiors,  and  they  numbered  one  hundred  and 
eleven,  to  be  dined  in  the  servants'  hall  daily.  Be- 
sides that,  they  expected  at  Christmas,  when  their  guests 
arrived,  an  addition  from  the  servants  they  would  bring, 
which  might  carry  them  up  to  a  much  larger  number,  a 
lady  seldom  going  without  her  maid,  and  a  gentleman 
without  his  valet,  besides  their  coachman,  and  often- 
tunes  a  postilion.  The  party  staying  in  the  house 
while  I  was  there,  and  exclusive  of  guests  expressly  in- 
vited to  dinner,  amounted  to  about  twenty  in  the  parlor, 
besides  children  and  young  ladies  not  come  out,  who 
dined  at  the  lunch,  at  two  o'clock ;  and  the  party  at 
Christmas  would  probably  be  increased  to  sixty,  many 
of  whom  are  relatives  of  the  family,  and  were  expected 
to  stay  six  weeks.  One  of  the  invited  guests  who  was 
coming  with  his  family,  had  sent  word  he  must  bring 
eight  horses ;  and  Sir  Charles  wrote  him  to  bring  as 
many  as  he  pleased.  He  could  not  come  without  his 
hunting  stud  with  him.  I  could  not  stay  over  Christ- 
mas, as  I  had  other  engagements ;  but  they  urged  me, 
if  I  was  in  the  country  another  season,  to  repeat  my  visit. 
Sir  Charles  took  me  over  his  farms,  and  did  every  thing 
he  could  to  make  my  visit  agreeable ;  indeed,  the  whole 
household  were  as  kind,  as  attentive,  and  as  warm- 
hearted people  as  I  have  ever  met  with,  and  it  was  im- 
possible, abating  a  dreadful  ague,  that  my  visit  should 
have  been  more  agreeable.  We  breakfasted  at  ten 
o'clock  and  dined  at  seven  ;   for  those  who  took  lunch. 


LETTER    LXXXVII.     -  295 

(a  hot  dinner  it  should  be  called,)  it  was  always 
on  table  at  two.  I  had  the  mornings  to  myself, 
until  twelve  or  one  o'clock,  without  interruption  ;  the 
servant-woman  came  into  my  chamber  at  half-past  six 
to  make  my  fii-e,  and  the  valet  soon  after  to  bring  my 
clothes  and  shoes.  Though  there  were  so  many  persons 
in  the  house,  there  was  not  the  slightest  noise  to  be  heard  ; 
if,  you  perchance  met  a  servant  in  the  halls  or  pas- 
sages, they  would  be  sure  to  get  out  of  your  way,  unless 
you  wanted  them  ;  and  if  any  thing  was  required,  you 
had  only  to  touch  your  bell,  and  it  was  immediately  re- 
sponded to.  We  had  eight  men  servants  at  dinner  con- 
stantly, seven  of  them  in  livery,  with  their  heads  fully 
powdered,  and  one  in  black,  looking  like  a  grave  old 
clergyman,  who  was  the  butler,  who  handed  the  wine, 
and  put  every  dish  on  the  table.  At  table  no  one  helps 
himself  to  any  thing,  I  had  almost  said,  even  if  it  is 
directly  before  him,  but  a  servant  always  interferes. 
Even  the  person  sitting  at  your  side,  does  not  hand  his 
own  plate  to  be  helped.  Water-cups  are  placed  by  your 
plate,  and  oftentimes  with  perfumed  water,  to  wash  your 
hands  and  lips  after  dinner,  and  these  are  taken  away, 
and  others  are  put  on  with  the  dessert.  You  are  never 
urged  to  eat,  and  seldom  asked  what  you  will  have, 
excepting  by  the  servant.  In  most  cases,  an  elegantly 
written  bill  of  fare,  sometimes  on  embossed  silk  paper, 
is  passed  quietly  round  the  table,  and  you  whisper  to  the 
servant  and  tell  him  what  you  will  have.  The  vegeta- 
bles are  never  put  upon  the  plate  by  the  person  who 
helps,  but  are  always  passed  round  by  the  servants. 
Each  guest  is  of  course  furnished  with  a  clean  napkin, 
which,  after  dinner,  is  never  left  on  the  table  but  either 


296        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

thrown  into  your  chair  or  upon  the  floor,  under  the  table. 
The  ladies  leave  soon  after  the  wine  has  passed  twice 
round.  After  the  gentlemen  have  drawn  together  and 
finished  their  confab,  in  half  an  hour  coffee  is  announced 
in  the  drawing  room,  when  the  gentlemen  go  in  to  meet 
the  ladies.  One  servant  then  comes  with  the  cups,  and 
cream,  and  sugar,  on  a  waiter,  and  is  followed  by  another 
servant  with  a  coffeepot  of  coffee,  to  fill  up  your  cup 
after  you  have  prepared  it.  In  about  half  an  hour 
after  coffee,  the  tea  furniture  is  brought  in,  and  one  of 
the  ladies  makes  the  tea,  which  is  then  handed  round, 
or  left  to  stand  for  any  one  to  go  and  help  himself  to  a 
cup  or  to  hand  one  to  the  ladies.  With  tea,  generally 
a  few  transparent  slices  of  bread  and  butter  are  handed 
round  or  stand  upon  the  table  for  any  one  to  help  him- 
self. The  party  then  form  little  coteries  —  those  to 
whist,  who  choose  ;  the  ladies  generally  to  their  embroi- 
dery or  Berlin  work ;  others  to  their  books  or  the  news- 
papers of  the  day,  which  are  always  on  the  table ;  and 
sometimes  the  young  ladies  are  at  the  piano,  but  every 
thing  is  perfectly  sans  souci,  and  the  rooms  are  so  large, 
sixty  feet  long  or  more,  with  all  sorts  of  conveniences 
for  sitting  or  lounging,  or  forming  a  little  exclusive  con- 
versational party,  that  twenty  different  things  may  be 
going  on  without  one  interfering  with  the  other.  At 
eleven  the  servants  bring  in  the  decanters  of  wine,  Selzer 
water,  and  whiskey,  with  sugar  and  hot  water,  for  every 
one  to  help  himself;  and  the  bed-candles  are  placed 
upon  the  sideboard,  or  in  the  outer  hall.  The  ladies 
then  generally  retire  in  a  body,  giving  a  pleasant  good- 
night ;  the  young  girls  always  kissing  their  father  and 
mother;    and  soon  after  that  the    gentlemen    retire, — 


LETTER    LXXXVII.  297 

or  you  may  go  at  any  time,  only  bidding  your  next 
neighbor  good-night,  and  quietly  taking  your  own 
candle. 

In  your  chamber,  every  thing  is  always  in  the  best 
order,  —  a  blazing  fire,  and  a  rush-light  to  burn  all  night, 
in .  a  safe,  so  that  no  danger  can  come  from  it.  Your 
window  and  bed-curtains  are  always  closely  drawn, 
your  night-clothes  hung  by  the  fire  to  be  aired,  the 
bootjack  and  slippers  placed  by  the  side  of  your  bed, 
and  spare  blankets  folded  near  you.  A  bell-rope  is 
always  within  reach,  and  not,  unfrequently,  a  worked 
night-cap,  to  be  used  if  you  choose  it.  In  most  houses, 
prayers  are  had  half  an  hour  before  breakfast,  but  these, 
you  are  left  at  entire  liberty  to  attend  or  not.  There  is 
always  a  dressing-bell  for  breakfast  and  dinner,  half  an 
hour  before  each.  At  breakfast  you  come  down  dressed 
as  you  please.  Before  dinner,  you  go  into  your  cham- 
ber, and  you  find,  without  having  given  any  orders 
whatever,  your  dress-clothes,  brushed  and  folded,  and 
with  your  shoes,  laid  out  for  use.  A  pitcher  of  hot 
water  is  put  upon  your  table,  or  a  little,  bright  copper 
tea-kettle  is  boiling  over  the  fire.  Five  minutes  before 
the  dinner  hour,  you  are  expected  in  the  drawing-room, 
where  the  company  are  assembled,  and,  at  the  proper 
call,  the  lady  or  master  of  the  house,  always  assigns  you 
a  partner. 

After  breakfast,  or  at  breakfast,  your  tea  and  coffee 
will  be  turned  out  for  you,  or  you  help  yourself.  There 
is  seldom  any  servant  in  waiting.  Ham  and  eggs  are  on 
the  table  ;  the  cold  meats,  cold  beef,  cold  fowl,  cold  par- 
tridge, are  on  the  sideboard ;  and  you  get  up  and  help 
yourself  or  any  lady  whom  you  may  be  desirous  to  serve. 


298        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

If  the  post  arrives  in  the  morning,  your  letters  are 
always  handed  to  you  at  breakfast,  or  laid  by  your  plate. 
You  will  find,  likewise,  always  in  some  principal  passage, 
a  mail-box,  with  a  notice  upon  it,  at  what  time,  every 
day,  the  mail  leaves,  where,  if  you  deposite  your  letters, 
they  are  sure  to  be  sent.  Each  of  these  great  houses 
has  a  separate  mail-bag  for  itself. 

At  breakfast,  the  arrangements  for  the  day  are  gene- 
rally made,  and  in  all  the  houses  where  I  have  been,  the 
appointments  are  expected  to  be  kept  with  the  most 
exact  punctuality,  so  that  if  you  are  engaged  to  walk  or 
ride,  or  drive,  at  a  particular  hour,  precisely  at  that  hour 
you  will  find  the  party  in  the  hall,  and  the  horse  or 
carriage  at  the  door.  Your  greatcoat,  which  you  leave 
in  the  hall,  you  will  find  neatly  folded,  your  hat  brushed, 
your  gloves  laid  out  upon  your  hat,  and  your  umbrella 
in  its  place.  Indeed,  it  would  be  impossible  to  get 
along  in  such  establishments  without  the  most  exact 
system  and  punctuality,  and  where  these  are  observed, 
every  thing  goes  on  like  clockwork. 

Now  have  I  not  given  you  a  pretty  piece  of  gossip  ? 
I  hope  you  will  be  edified,  and  if  it  gives  you  any  pleas- 
ure, I  shall  be  glad.  You  have  desired  to  know  the 
particulars  of  manners  and  management  in  these  spendid 
establishments  ;  and  as  one  may  be  considered  as  a  type 
of  others,  and  all  are  upon  the  same  model,  I  shall  vio- 
late no  confidence,  by  giving  you  these  details  of  modes 
of  living,  wholly  different  from  those  which  prevail  with 
us.  Each  of  these  great  houses  has  an  extensive  brewery, 
laundry,  and  meat-house,  of  its  own ;  and  these,  with  the 
home  dairy,  where  fresh  butter  is  furnished  every  morn- 
ing, are  always  of  the  best  description,  and  well  worthy 


LETTER    LXXXVIll.  299 

of  inspection.  The  steward's  department  in  such  an 
estabUshment  is  Uke  the  commissariat  of  a  small  army. 
Adieu. 


LETTER    LXXXVIll. 

London,  2d  January,  184.'). 
My  Dear  Sir  : 

I  DO  NOT  recollect  having  ever  seen  Loudon's  account 
of  the  Lawrencian  Villa,  and  cannot  now  refer  to  it ; 
but  I  derive  an  impression,  from  what  you  say,  that  he 
considered  it  the  handsomest  establishftient  in  England, 
and  a  model  of  what  such  a  place  should  be.  I  have, 
in  the  first  place,  not  an  exalted  opinion  of  Loudon's 
taste.  I  visited  the  Aboretum,  at  Derby,  where  Lou- 
don had  all  the  means  and  money  to  make  the  place  as 
handsome  as  art  and  taste  could  make  it,  but  I  think 
there  never  was  a  more  egregious  failure.  Mrs.  Law- 
rence's place  is  transferred  from  where  it  was  first 
made;  but  every  thing  has  been  transplanted  that 
could  be  removed,  and  I  am  told  the  natural  advantages 
of  the  new  situation  are  much  superior  to  tliose  of  the 
old.  I  went  there  with  Mr.  Peabody  and  family, 
but  we  saw  it  under  great  disadvantages,  as  the  air  was 
raw  and  chilly,  and  the  afternoon  wet  and  foggy.  The 
place  is  extremely  beautiful,  but  very  far  from  being  the 
handsomest  place  I  have  seen  in  England.  We  entered 
the  park  gate,  and  after  a  drive  of  some  extent,  perhaps 
a  quarter  of  a  mile,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  house,  with 


300  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

an  open  lawn  in  front,  stretching  down  to  a  large  artifi- 
cial pond,  where  some  swans  were  disporting  themselves, 
and  at  the  upper  part  of  which  was  a  bridge,  with  sev- 
eral arches,  forming  a  very  picturesque  object.  The 
house  is  of  two  stories,  rather  long,  with  windows  reach- 
ing nearly  to  the  ground,  and  an  open  piazza  and  colon- 
nade in  front,  showing  an  elegant  entrance.  I  pre- 
sented our  card  of  admission,  which  the  servant  see- 
ing, immediately  asked  us  in,  and  sent  for  the  gar- 
dener to  show  us  the  premises.  The  room  to  which  we 
were  introduced,  was  a  sort  of  vestibule  or  hall,  adorned 
with  several  marble  statues  of  Apollo,  Diana,  Venus, 
and  others,  which  you  see  everywhere  here,  and  was, 
upon  the  whole,  fitted  up  in  a  tasteful  and  elegant  man- 
ner. This  room,  I  should  think,  might  be  thirty  feet 
long,  and  of  a  proportional  depth  ;  and  attached  to  it,  on 
each  side,  were  extensive  and  elegant  rooms — library, 
drawing  rooms,  dining  rooms,  &;c.,  &;c.  —  which  we 
were  not  shown.  The  gardener  then  took  us  over  the 
grounds,  full  of  beautiful  shrubbery  and  flowers,  in  a 
sort  of  negligee  order,  and  around  various  labyrinths  and 
by-paths,  where  every  once  in  a  while  you  would 
come  across  a  small  grotto  of  shells,  and  archways  made 
of  pieces  of  slag,  found  at  brick-yards,  where  several 
bricks  have  melted  together  and  become  very  hard-baked, 
with  occasional  statues  of  Ceres,  and  Flora,  &.C.,  &:c., 
in  the  grounds,  placed  with  great  taste.  He  then 
showed  us  the  dairy  room,  which,  I  think,  was  an  octa- 
gon building  among  the  trees,  with  doors  opening  oppo- 
site to  each  other,  the  shelves  running  around  the 
sides,  made  of  China  tiles,  the  walls  hung  with  exqui- 
site  China    plates,   and    the    milk   pans   of  glass  shin- 


LETTER    LXXXVIII.  301 

ing  upon  the  shelves.  Our  next  visit  was  to  the 
green  houses  and  conservatories,  which  were  distinct 
buildings,  I  think,  four  or  five  of  them,  with  span  roofs, 
and  running  back  and  parallel  with  each  other,  perhaps 
sixty  feet  each,  and  the  different  ones  appropriated  to 
fruit,  and  flowers,  and  rare  plants,  and  large  numbers, 
especially  of  the  orchidaceous  plants,  of  great  value.  The 
whole,  indeed,  displayed  very  great  taste.  The  situation 
of  the  place  somewhat  resembles  the  elegant  residence 
of  Mr.  George  Lyman,  at  Waltham.  Mrs.  Lawrence's 
improvements  are  not  completed,  and  she  is  extending 
her  shrubbery  and  walks.  She  is  undoubtedly  one  of 
the  most  successful  and  skilful  cultivators  and  florists 
in  the  country,  and  carries  off  more  prizes  at  the  horti- 
cultural exhibitions  than  almost  any  one  else.  I  am  told 
Mr.  Lawrence  is  an  eminent  surgeon  in  London,  and  the 
whole  of  the  country  place  is  under  Mrs.  Lawrence's 
management.  I  had  not  the  honor  of  an  introduction 
to  the  lady,  but  we  saw  her  on  tlie  grounds,  giving 
instructions  to  her  laborers  or  gardeners.  The  country 
is  full  of  such  beautiful  places,  made  as  elegant  as  taste, 
and  art,  and  skill,  and  science,  can  make  them,  with  no 
limit  to  expense. 

I  wish  I  had  taste  enough  to  have  given  you  a  more 
just  account  of  this  beautiful  place,  but  it  is  out  of  my 
line  to  do  so.  If  it  had  been  a  stercorary,  or  a  stable, 
or  a  farm-steading,  as  they  call  it  in  Scotland,  perhaps  I 
should  have  done  much  better.     Adieu. 


26 


302         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 


LETTER  LXXXIX. 

London,  7th  February,  1845. 
56  Charing  Cross. 
My  Dear  M : 

A  WEEK  ago,  I  finished  all  my  travelling  and  visits  in 
England.  Had  I  not  gone  into  Wales,  and  had  I  given  up 
my  last  visits  in  England,  I  should  have  lost  a  great  deal 
which  is  to  be  important  to  my  objects.  Indeed,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  kindness,  which  has  been  literally  poured 
upon  me  in  a  full  stream,  I  have  seen  several  individuals, 
whose  acquaintance  it  was  worth  a  voyage  across  the 
Atlantic  to  make,  and,  much  of  grandeur  and  luxury 
and  splendor  as  I  had  seen  before,  a  style  of  living  and 
a  magnificence  of  which,  I  confess,  I  had  but  an  imper- 
fect idea.  Lord  Hatherton  told  me  it  would  be  so,  and 
advised  me,  by  all'  means,  to  see  Woburn  Abbey  ;  and 
Lord  Auckland  told  me  I  should  find  there  what  he 
considered  the  best  house  in  England.  I  had  been 
honored  with  several  invitations  to  go  there,  and  to  the 
Earl  of  Hardwicke's,  and  I  could  not  persuade  myself  to 
forego  the  opportunity  of  so  much  pleasure  and  instruc- 
tion. These  visits  were  all  in  the  line  of  my  pursuits. 
Each  one  of  them,  in  addition  to  other  circumstances, 
presented  as  many  advantages  for  acquiring  agricultural 
information  as  any  places  which  I  have  visited.  Sir 
Charles  Morgan  is  the  largest  farmer  in  Wales.  Mr. 
Pusey,  M.  P.,  in  point  of  practical  science,  stands  at 
the  head  of  the  agricultural  community  in  England. 
Lord  Hardwicke  farms  most  extensively,  and  his  farming 


LETTER    LXXXIX.  303 

operations  are  more  exact  and  systematical  than  almost 
any  which  I  have  seen.  The  Duke  of  Bedford  is,  next 
to  the  Duke  of  Portland,  the  largest  improver  in  Eng- 
land; his  estates  at  Woburn  Abbey  being  no  less  than 
twenty  thousand  acres  in  one  body,  and  his  redeemed 
land  in  the  Bedford  Level,  all  cultivated  land,  exceeding 
eighteen  thousand  acres.  His  farm  establishment  at 
Woburn  Abbey  is  deemed  the  most  extensive  and  com- 
plete of  any  in  the  kingdom.  So  that  my  visit  there, 
besides  affording  me  the  pleasures  of  the  most  refined 
society,  in  the  house,  and  all  the  delights  of  pictures, 
statuary,  and  books,  gave  me,  out  of  doors,  in  his  gardens 
and  cultivated  grounds,  workshops  and  plantations,  the 
highest  gratification  and  improvement.  Indeed,  when  I 
am  to  get  over  my  astonishment,  or  reduce  my  eyes 
to  their  ordinary  dimensions,  I  don't  know.  To  give 
you  some  idea  of  his  operations,  upon  his  own  farm, 
under  his  own  management,  he  pays  more  than  four 
hundred  laborers  weekly,  through  the  year ;  and  in  his 
home  park,  which,  to  be  sure,  is  thirteen  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, he  has  laid  pipe  drains,  for  several  years 
past,  to  the  extent  of  fifty  miles  each  year ;  and  upon 
his  other  estates  he  makes  about  two  hundred  miles  of 
drains  every  year  —  drains  dug  three  feet  deep,  and  laid 
with  pipe  tiles.  I  design  to  give  an  account  of  this  agri- 
cultural visit  in  another  place,  and  therefore  add  nothing 
more.     Adieu. 


304        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 


LETTER    XC. 

London,  3d  February,  1845. 
My  Dear  A : 

You  are  a  lady  who  wants  particulars,  and  I  should 
like  to  know  if  there  is  any  thing  I  would  not  do  for  you 
if  I  could.  Under  these  circumstances,  I  suppose  I 
must  give  you  some  account  of  my  three  recent  visits, 
hut  mind  you,  they  are  for  you  and  not  for  the  public. 
I  have  already  been  greatly  disturbed  by  hearing  that 
some  of  my  letters  have  been  shown,  which  does  not 
seem  at  all  fair,  and  makes  me  half  inclined  to  write 
only  in  the  most  formal  way,  and  to  put  down  my  chron- 
icles as  if  I  were  writing  for  the  newspaper.  This,  I 
think,  destroys  all  the  charm  of  letters,  and  puts  an  ex- 
tinguisher upon  that  freedom  of  communication  and  those 
outpourings  of  the  heart  which  make  letters  often  so 
charming. 

I  gave  you  some  account  of  my  delightful  visit  to 
Sir  Charles  Morgan's,  in  Wales,  and  besides  that  sent 
you  a   printed  account  of  the  cattle-show,  and  to  my 

friend  E ,  a  bill  of  prizes  on   satin,  which  I  hope 

was  duly  received.  I  believe,  likewise,  I  wrote  you  of 
my  most  agreeable  visit  at  Lord  Ducie's,  where  I  met 
with  people  of  the  highest  intelligence  and  refinement, 
and  of  the  most  delightful  manners,  and  in  the  midst  of 
the  greatest  luxury,  with  an  unaffected  simplicity  which 
would  have  been  charming  in  childhood.  After  that  I 
went  to  Mr.  Hyett's,  in  Gloucestershire,  and  to  the  Hon. 
and  Rev.  Mr.  Talbot's,  in  Worcestershire,  and  to  Mr. 


LETTER    XC.  305 

Spooner's,  M.  P.,  in  his  neighborhood,  and  then  returned 
to  London.  My  visits  were  all  of  them  most  agreeable, 
for  how  could  they  be  otherwise,  when  every  possible 
arrangement  is  made  for  your  comfort  and  gratification, 
by  persons  having  not  only  the  disposition  but  the  ability. 
I  then  passed  a  week  in  London,  putting  my  lodgings  to 
rights,  and  arranging  my  letters  and  papers,  which  had  got 
into  a  state  of  accumulated  confusion  ;  and  after  passing 
Christmas  at  Sheen,  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bates  and  Mr. 
Everett's  family,  and  New  Year's  evening  with  a  large 
party  of  American  ladies  and  gentlemen  at  Mr.  Putnam's, 
and  refusing  several  invitations,  I  left  on  the  4th  January 
for  Mr.  Pusey's,  in  Berkshire.  Here  the  house  is  full 
of  books  and  statuary,  and  what  is  still  better,  the  most 
kind  and  intelligent  people,  with  the  addition,  on  this 
occasion,  of  several  distinguished  visiters  ;  the  Chevalier 
Bunsen,  one  of  the  most  learned  and  accomplished  men 
in  Europe,  ambassador  from  Prussia,  his  lady  and  daugh- 
ter and  two  sons  ;  Mr.  Sidney  Herbert,  M.  P. ;  Dr.  Play- 
fair,  Professor  of  Chemistry  to  the  Agricultural  Society, 
Dr.  Buckland,  the  learned  geologist,  and  several  other 
persons.  Mr.  Miles,  M.  P.,  lady  and  daughter.  Mon- 
day, the  7th,  was  Twelfth  Night,  and  we  went  with  a 
large  party  to  the  house  of  a  neighboring  gentleman, 
where  the  Christmas  gambols  and  the  Christmas  cake 
were  to  be  brought  out ;  the  children,  young  and  old, 
were  all  mustered,  and  the  evening  passed  off  with  great 
gaiety.  I  was  expected  to  stay  at  Mr.  Pusey's  until  the 
end  of  the  week,  and  a  host  of  visiters  were  looked  for 
the  next  day,  some  of  whom  I  wished  very  much  to  see, 
the  Earl  Radnor  in  particular,  but  I  was  obliged  to  leave 
these  kind  people  on  Tuesday  forenoon,  by  i\w  railroad, 
26* 


306        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

for  London,  where  I  took  coach  for .     I  was 

expected  to  be  there  at  dinner  at  seven  o'clock,  but  had 
written  that  I  feared  it  would  be  impossible,  as  I  must 
take  a  private  conveyance  some  miles,  and,  in  conse- 
quence, I  did  not  arrive  until  nine.  Dinner  was  then 
provided  for  me  with  as  much  elegance  and  variety  as 
if  I  had  been  a  party.  This  is  a  magnificent  place  ; 
the  house  is  about  four  hundred  and  twenty  feet  long ; 
the  park  most  extensive  and  beautiful,  and  every  thing 
within  of  corresponding  elegance  and  grandeur.  The 
house  was  full  of  company  —  noblemen  and  gentlemen, 
members  of  Parliament  and  others,  with  their  ladies.  In 
the  morning  the  Earl  and  the  other  gentlemen  went  out 
shooting  and  returned  with  three  hundred  and  fourteen 
head  of  game.  I  went  with  them  merely  as  a  spectator, 
taking  good  care  not  to  be  shot  at,  and  returned  in  about 
three  hours ;  they  did  not  return  until  night ;  the  lady 
was  waiting  for  me  to  walk  with  her  a  mile  or  two,  to 
see  some  of  the  finest  trees  in  the  park.  The  evening, 
after  dinner,  at  half-past  seven,  passed  off  most  agreea- 
bly, the  lady  of  the  house  playing  and  singing  with  a 
taste  and  skill  not  surpassed  in  my  experience,  and  the 
gentlemen  in  conversation,  at  cards,  or  at  their  papers 
and  books.  The  next  morning  the  gentlemen  arranged 
for  another  battue,  or  shooting  party.  A  battue  means 
beating  the  bush.  In  these  cases,  a  large  party  of  men, 
laborers  and  servants,  are  employed  to  go  round  a  copse 
or  thicket  where  the  game  is  plenty,  and,  beating  the 
bushes  with  poles  and  sticks,  compel  the  game  to  run  or 
fly  towards  the  centre,  where  the  sportsmen  stand  await- 
ing their  ari'ival.  The  birds  are  always  shot  upon  the 
wing,  and  being  large,  and  generally  flying  near,  it  does 


LETTER    XC.  307 

not  require  much  skill  to  bring  them  down.  Upon  the 
whole,  I  thought  this  sport  admitted  but  of  one  improve- 
ment, and  that  was,  to  have  an  arm  chair  placed  in  the 
poultry-yard,  and  the  hens  and  chickens  tied  by  the  legs, 
and  shot  at  at  leisure.  In  this  case,  few  of  the  gentlemen 
were  without  two  guns,  and  a  servant  to  load  for  them. 
The  sport  certainly  lacked  all  the  vivacity  and  vigor 
and  elasticity  which  attend  a  long  \\ alk  over  hill  and 
dale,  mountain  and  forest,  in  search  of  game  wherever 
it  is  to  be  found,  bringing  the  results  of  our  day's  work 
home  upon  our  shoulders,  and  with  appetites  sharpened 
by  fresh  air  and  exercise,  sitting  down  in  the  evening  to 
enjoy  the  rest  for  which  fatigue  only  can  prepare  us, 
and  to  recount  the  various  adventures  of  the  day. 

The  next  day  the  lady  said  she  should  take  me  under 
her  special  care,  to  which,  I  assure  you,  I  was  not  at 
all  averse.  At  twelve,  then,  we  sallied  forth,  on  a  walk  of 
three  miles,  through  the  mud,  and  while  she  visited  some 
sick  persons,  I  went  into  some  of  the  laborer's  cottages. 
The  carriage  overtook  us  after  walking  four  or  five 
miles,  and  then  she  was  kind  enough  to  take  me  through 
the  farm  offices ;  the  stables,  the  cow-houses,  the  pig- 
styes,  the  barn-yards,  almost  over  shoes  in  mud,  which  she 
minded  no  more  than  she  would  a  walk  on  her  drawing- 
room  carpet,  only  taking  care,  as  most  of  the  English 
women  have  good  sense  enough  to  do,  not  to  let  her 
clothes  draggle  in  the  mud  ;  she  showed  me  the  cows, 
the  calves,  the  harness-rooms,  the  implement-rooms,  the 
fatting-rooms,  and  the  dairy,  exquisitely  neat  as  it  was. 
She  explained  to  me  all  the  modes  of  management, 
and  then  took  me  to  the  bailiff's  house,  that  he  might 
tell  me  the  course  of  cropping  and  management,  with 


308        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

which  she  seemed  to  be  as  fully  acquainted  as  he  was. 
They  have  no  London  house,  as  she  prefers  being  at 
home  in  the  country  with  her  children,  of  which  she  has 
a  most  beautiful  family,  who  were  regularly  brought  at 
breakfast  and  before  dinner  into  the  drawing-room. 

After  our  excursion  over  the  fann,  she  gave  me,  in 
the  house,  proofs  of  an  equal  familiarity  with  the  details 
of  her  domestic  management,  nothing  connected  with 
the  family  escaping  her  particular  superintendence  and 
care.  Her  boudoir  is  as  beautiful  in  its  furniture  and 
arrangements  as  art  and  taste  can  make  it.  The  ex- 
terior of  the  house  is  quite  plain  and  antique,  but  the 
interior  is  superb,  and  the  apartments  occupied  by  the 
Queen  on  her  visit  here,  where  she  staid  several  days, 
magnificent.  The  library  is  a  fine  room,  more  than  sixty 
feet  long,  crossed  by  another  room  full  forty  feet  long,  and 
crowded  with  books  and  works  of  art.  The  chapel,  too, 
where  we  had  prayers  every  morning  at  half-past  nine, 
is  an  elegant  room,  capable  of  seating  one  or  two  hun- 
dred people  comfortably.  Soon  after  our  return,  the 
dressing  bell  announced  the  hour  of  preparation  for  din- 
ner, and  at  seven  we  assembled  in  the  drawing-room. 
She  and  the  other  ladies  were  every  evening  attired  in  a 
different  style.  I  am  no  milliner,  and  not  well  skilled  in 
describing  a  lady's  dress,  but  I  remarked  it  once  or 
twice,  because  I  thought  you  would  like  even  an  imper- 
fect sketch  of  it.  Her  hair  then  was  combed  back, 
dropping  down  on  each  side  of  a  face,  of  which  I  shall 
not  presume  to  speak,  and  bound  at  the  top  with  a  cir- 
clet of  brilliants.  Her  dress,  which  was  worn  low,  to 
show  the  bust  to  advantage  —  a  universal  custom  here  — 
was  of  crimson  velvet,  with  short  sleeves,  trimmed  round 


LETTER    XC.  309 

the  bosom  and  back  with  the  finest  lace,  about  six  inches 
deep,  and  trimmed  from  the  bottom  up  above  the  knees 
witli  the  same  kind  of  lace.  The  arms  were  bare, 
excepting  most  splendid  bracelets  on  the  wrist,  and 
with  short  kid  gloves,  trimmed  with  lace,  which,  when 
removed  to  assist  at  dinner,  which  she  chose  to  do, 
showed  on  tlie  hand  several  splendid  diamond  rings. 
Another  evening,  she  was  dressed  in  white  muslin,  with 
a  red  sash,  her  head  dressed  with  a  crimson  turban,  a 
circlet  of  brilliants,  and  a  small  white  plume  gracefully 
pendant  on  one  side.  Another  evening,  she  wore  a 
splendid  silk  dress,  and  a  circlet  of  pearls  ;  white  satin 
shoes,  of  course,  rich  lace  pocket-handkerchiefs,  &z;c., 
&£c.,  &;c.  But  beyond  all  this,  there  was  herself,  so 
unaffected,  so  well  educated,  so  ready  to  discuss  politics, 
agriculture,  literature,  or  fashions,  and  so  gentle  and 
bland  in  her  temper  and  manners,  that  it  was  impossible 
for  me  even,  old  and  plebeian  as  I  am,  not  to  feel  the 
highest  admiration.  The  other  ladies  were  dressed  with 
equal  elegance  ;  the  table  covered  with  gold  and  silver, 
and  every  thing  recherche  and  luxurious,  with  the  richest 
pineapples,  grapes,  asparagus,  fcc,  Stc,  from  their  own 
gardens.  I  was  to  have  left  on  Thursday  morning,  but 
they  were  kind  enough  to  insist  upon  my  staying  until 
Saturday,  and  then  coming  again  before  I  should  leave 
the  country.  I  left  on  Saturday.  They  sent  me  on 
seven  miles,  that  I  might  take  the  coach  for  London, 
after  loading  me  with  rabbits,  and  hares,  and  pheasants, 
for  the  ladies  where  I  live.  Sir  Charles  Morgan  had  in 
a  former  case  put  up  for  me  a  whole  side  of  venison, 
and  Lord  Ducie  had  given  me  braces  of  pheasants  and 
hares,  while  I  was  with  him.  This  is  the  way  these 
people  do  things. 


310         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

My  next  visit  was  to  a  place  of  equal  interest,  and 
where  I  had  much  to  see  and  enjoy.  Wobum  Abbey, 
in  its  magnificence,  distances  any  thing  I  have  yet  seen, 
and,  next  to  the  royal  palace,  may  be  considered  as  the 
acme  of  elegance  and  grandeur.  I  had  engaged  to  be 
at  the  Duke  of  Bedford's  on  Saturday,  but  wrote,  asking 
a  postponement  until  Monday,  as  the  friends  before 
described  were  not  willing  I  should  leave  them  until 
Saturday.  I  took  the  rail  on  Monday  for  Wobum 
Abbey,  and  was  obliged  to  post  seven  miles.  I  reached 
there  at  five  o'clock.  The  Duke  was  absent,  but  I  was 
expected,  and  was  immediately  shown  into  my  room  — 
a  room  of  an  elegant  description  —  and,  as  soon  as  I 
was  ready,  was  introduced  into  the  tea-room,  where  the 
Duchess  and  a  large  party  were  helping  themselves  to 
tea,  over  a  large  table,  which  was  always  ready  at  five 
o'clock,  for  those  who  desired  this  refreshment  at  that 
time.  Here  was  a  crowd  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  full 
of  wit  and  gaiety.  The  Duchess  received  me  with 
great  kindness,  and  apologized  for  the  necessary  absence 
of  the  Duke,  who  would  return  to  dinner  at  half-past 
seven,  and  introduced  me  to  several  of  the  company. 
After  an  hour  here,  I  retired  to  my  room,  where  I  found 
a  good  fire,  plenty  of  water  —  a  tea-kettle  of  hot  water, 
and  a  tub  of  cold  —  writing  apparatus,  and  every  possi- 
ble convenience  and  luxury.  The  servant  soon  came  to 
announce  the  hour  for  dressing  and  take  my  orders. 
The  house  is  very  large,  consisting  of  four  sides,  three 
stories  high  on  three  sides,  and  two  stories  on  the  other, 
each  of  the  sides  more  than  two  hundred  feet  long, 
enclosing  a  court-yard  of  great  extent,  and  having  three 
long  galleries,  the  length  of  the  whole  sides,  full  of  pic- 


LETTER    XC. 


311 


tures  and  works  of  art.  At  the  dinner  bell,  1  found  the 
usher  of  the  hall,  with  the  appearance  of  a  gentleman, 
di-essed  in  a  suit  of  black,  with  black  shorts  and  knee 
buckles,  silk  stockings  and  shoe  buckles,  waiting  in  the 
entry,  to  show  me  into  the  drawing-room,  where  the 
Duke  met  me,  and  where  I  found  a  very  large  party  of 
elegantes.  The  Duchess  Dowager  ;  the  Marquis  and 
Marchioness  of  Normanby,  he  the  late  Lord  Lieutenant 
of  Ireland,  and  she  the  sister  of  Lady  Hardwicke, 
which  brought  us  at  once  into  acquaintance ;  the  Mar- 
quis of  Landsdowne,  who  knew  Dr.  Howe,  and  inquired 
for  him,  speaking  of  him  in  the  highest  terms  ;  Lord 
Auckland,  with,  whom  I  had  staid  before  at  a  friend's 
house ;  Lord  George  William  Russell ;  Lord  and  Lady 

Russell  ;  Mr.  Sanford  and  Lady  Caroline  ;  Lady 

Rachel  Russell ;  and  Baron  De  Taille,  a  Major  General 
in  the  British  army  ;  and  other  persons  of  distinction. 
At  half-past  seven,  we  went  into  dinner.  I  have  never 
seen  any  thing  so  splendid.  The  service  was  all  of 
gold  and  silver,  except  the  dessert  plates,  which  were 
of  Sevres  porcelain,  and  presented  to  one  of  the  former 
Dukes,  by  Louis  the  Fifteenth.  I  observed  many  large 
massive  pieces  of  gold  plate  in  the  centre  of  the  table, 
and  a  silver  waiter  or  tray,  to  support  them,  more  than 
eight  feet  long  and  nearly  two  wide.  There  were  two 
large  gold  tureens,  one  at  each  end  of  the  table.  Be- 
sides the  gold  service  on  the  table,  there  were,  among 
other  plate,  two  large  gold  waiters,  on  the  side-board, 
presented  to  the  former  Duke,  as  agricultural  premiums. 
The  arms  of  the  family  are  a  deer ;  and  there  were  four 
salts  in  my  sight,  being  a  deer,  about  five  inches  high,  of 
silver,  with  antlers,  and  two  panniers  slung  over  his  back. 


312        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

one  containing  coarse,  and  the  other  fine  salt.  The 
servants,  in  livery  and  out  of  livery,  were  numerous,  and 
the  dinner,  of  course,  comprising  every  possible  delicacy 
and  luxury  in  meats,  wines,  fruits,  &;c.,  he.  The  eve- 
ning was  passed  in  the  drawing-room,  some  of  the  party 
at  cards,  some  at  billiards,  some  reading  the  papers, 
some  at  work,  until  eleven  o'clock,  when  the  party  take 
their  wine  and  water,  or  seltzer,  or  soda  water,  and  their 
candles,  and  retire.  The  dress  of  the  ladies  was  more 
splendid  than  I  can  describe,  and  the  jewels  and  diamonds 
on  the  head,  and  neck,  and  wrists,  and  fingers,  as  bril- 
liant as  their  own  bright  eyes.  At  ten,  we  met  for 
breakfast,  sans  ceremonie,  and  every  one  ordered  what 
he  wanted.  The  plates  and  cups  were  all  of  Sevres 
porcelain,  and  every  one  of  a  different  pattern  from  the 
others ;  each  guest  had  tea  or  coffee,  as  he  chose  to 
order.  At  one  elegant  mansion,  in  which  I  staid  several 
days,  each  guest,  at  breakfast,  was  furnished  with  his 
own  silver  urn,  with  boiling  water,  and  a  spirit  lamp 
under  it,  with  his  own  silver  cofFee-pot,  if  he  preferred 
coffee  ;  or,  if  tea,  with  a  separate  tea-caddy,  with  two 
kinds  of  tea,  a  separate  tea-pot,  cream-pot,  and  sugar- 
bowl,  all  of  silver  ;  his  cup,  saucer,  and  plate,  of  course, 
—  making  a  complete  and  most  elegant  establishment 
for  this  purpose.  At  breakfast  the  arrangements  were 
made  for  the  day.  The  first  day  the  rain  was  consider- 
able, and  the  Duchess  undertook  to  show  us  the  house. 
It  is  full  of  every  thing  magnificent  in  the  way  of  pic- 
tures, and  works  of  art,  and  furniture,  and  the  apartments 
occupied  by  the  Queen  and  Prince,  on  their  visit  here, 
were  extremely  splendid.  The  library  contained  twenty- 
one  thousand  volumes.     The  gallery  for  statuary,  which 


LETTER    XC.  313 

is  a  separate  building,  was  full  of  works  of  art  of  the 
chief  masters,  which  almost  compelled  my  adoration. 
The  original  group  of  "  The  Three  Graces,"  in  mar- 
ble, by  Canova  himself,  is  here,  and  is  surpassingly 
beautiful.  Then  I  was  shown  the  theatre,  for  private 
theatricals ;  the  aviary,  full  of  bii'ds  and  three  black 
swans  ;  the  grassarium,  where  grasses  alone  are  culti- 
vated for  experiment  ;  the  Chinese  dairy,  full  of  every 
thing  exquisite ;  the  heathery,  containing  heaths  only ; 
the  house  for  tropical  plants;  the  pinetum,  for  pines 
only ;  the  lakes ;  the  shrubberies ;  the  statues  in  the 
open  grounds  ;  the  kitchen  and  fruit  garden,  a  wonder 
in  itself;  the  Temple  of  Liberty,  containing  the  busts 
and  statues  of  some  of  the  most  distinguished  friends  of 
the  Duke's  father;  then  the  horses  and  stables,  which 
were,  in  fact,  almost  palaces  in  their  way ;  then  the 
saddle-room,  where  there  were  certainly  fifty  saddles, 
all  in  order  for  use ;  then  the  carriage-house,  where 
were  twenty-seven  four-wheeled  carriages ;  then  the 
tennis-court ;  then  the  riding-school.  The  women,  too, 
in  this  place,  at  the  different  lodges,  who  opened  and 
shut  the  gates  of  the  park,  were  in  livery,  being  dressed 
in  bright  scarlet  gowns,  with  white  caps  and  aprons, 
presenting  a  gay  and  pleasing  costume. 

The  second  evening  was  equally  splendid  with  the 
first ;  much  company  arrived,  so  that  our  party  was 
quite  large ;  and  so  was  the  third  and  fourth  evening ; 
and  on  Friday  morning  I  took  my  departure  for  London, 
and  here  completes,  for  the  present,  my  visiting  excur- 
sions in  the  country  in  England,  certainly  with  a  rich 
experience  of  the  most  extraordinary  hospitality  and 
kindness.  The  Duke  and  Duchess  took  leave  of  me 
27 


314  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

with  many  expressions  of  regard,  and  a  hope  that  I 
should  see  them  again,  and  they  should  see  me  in  Lon- 
don, when  they  came  for  the  session  of  Parliament.  I 
shall  describe  the  agricultural  department  of  Woburn 
Abbey  in  another  way,  and  therefore  say  nothing  on 
that  subject.  They  make  up  one  hundred  beds  in  the 
house  constantly,  for  their  regular  family,  and  the  Duke 
has  three  other  places  to  keep  up.  I  am  not  exaggera- 
ting at  all,  for  there  is  no  occasion  for  that.  I  have 
enjoyed  myself  as  much  as  possible,  but  not  more  than  I 
know  I  shall,  if  Heaven  ever  permits  me  once  more  to  sit 
down  at  your  little  quiet  table  at  Elfin-glen. 

There  were  some  arrangements  at  Woburn  Abbey 
which  I  did  not  mention,  and  which  are  not  universal. 
First,  an  usher  of  the  hall,  and  a  groom  of  the  cham- 
bers, besides  the  steward,  and  under  butler,  and  house- 
keeper. The  housekeeper's  room  was  as  elegant,  and 
furnished  as  elegantly  as  drawing-rooms  usually  are  with 
us,  and  full  of  pictures  and  bijouterie.  Next,  there  was 
a  professional  musician  employed,  from  London,  for  the 
piano,  every  evening.  Next,  the  Duchess  has  a  page, 
a  lad,  who  constantly  attends  on  her,  dressed  in  green, 
trimmed  with  gold  lace,  with  Suwarrow  boots  and  tassels, 
gold  epaulets,  and  a  sword  by  his  side.  He  is  called 
on  the  Continent,  a  chasseur ;  here,  a  page. 

To-morrow,  the  Queen  opens  Parliament  in  person. 
The  Duke  of  Richmond  has  kindly  written  to  me  this 
morning  that  he  shall  obtain  tickets  for  me,  so  I  propose 
to  take  Mrs.  Clark  with  me,  though  she  can  only  go 
into  the  corridor,  as  she  is  not  prepared  to  go  into  the 
House  of  Lords ;  as  no  ladies  can  appear  there  but  in 
full  dress,  with  plumes,  &-c.     She  will  see  the  Queen 


LETTER    XCI.  315 

and  officers  of  state  pass  in,  but  not  hear  her  majesty 
from  the  throne.  The  young  Prince  of  Wales,  it  is  said, 
is  to  make  his  first  appearance  there. 

We  have  had  a  fortnight  of  most  severe  cold,  in 
December.  Since  that,  the  weather  has  been  temper- 
ate ;  and  I  have  not  seen  an  inch  of  snow  this  winter, 
excepting  on  the  Welch  Mountains.     Adieu. 


LETTER  XCI. 

London,  1st  March,  1845. 
My  Deab  M : 

I  HAVE  darkened  the  walls  of  no  church  to-day ;  but 
I  have  remembered  in  my  chamber  that  beautiful  and 
divine  lesson,  "  They  that  worship  Him,  worship  him  in 
spirit  and  in  truth  ;  the  Father  seeketh  such  to  worship 
him."  And  I  have  adored  with  my  whole  soul,  through- 
out the  day,  the  goodness  of  God  in  the  remembrance 
of  friends  living  and  departed,  with  whom  he  has  blessed 
me  —  I  will  not  say  above  eveiy  otiier  man  ;  but  with  as 
many,  and  as  worthy,  and  as  true  as  my  heart  could 
desire,  and  infinitely  beyond  my  deserts.  These  friends 
have  been  my  spiritual  companions  through  the  day  — 
my  heart  has  been  melted  ;  my  eyes  have  been  flooded 
with  tears ;  my  dear  mother  has  been  at  my  side,  and 
put  her  arm  about  my  neck.  The  eyes  of  your  mother 
whom  I  loved  so  well,  have  beamed  upon  me  with  their 
accustomed  kindness  ;  my  sweet  departed  child  has 
been  once  more  in  my  arms,  and  the  lovely  bird  has 
again    nestled   in   my  bosom  ;    I  have  seen   you  all  ;   I 


316        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

have  spoken  to  you  all  ;  I  have  embraced  you  all ;  I 
could  not  bear  many  such  days  —  it  is  now  past  mid- 
night and  I  must  retire,  actually  exhausted  with  the 
mingled  excitements  and  emotions  of  a  day  passed  in 
the  solitude  of  my  own  chamber.  But  I  will  not  retire 
until  my  prayers  go  up  to  Heaven  for  you,  my  dear  and 
faithful  friend,  as  dear  and  as  faithful  as  man  ever  had, 
and  for  the  loved  ones  that  are  round  you.  The  deep 
ocean  divides  us ;  but  as  the  same  sun  shines  upon  us, 
so  the  same  guardian  care  protects  us  ;  the  same  kind  eye 
pities  our  sorrows ;  the  same  patient  and  merciful  ear 
receives  our  prayers  —  the  same  final  and  blessed  home, 
through  his  goodness,  I  trust  awaits  us  all. 

The  last  packet  was  full  freighted  with  the  tokens  of 
your  kindness ;  it  was  a  perfect  epicurean  feast  that  I 

enjoyed.     Letters  from  yourself,  S ,  C ,  E , 

Mr.  W ,  Miss  Q ,  and  the  previous  day  from 

J ,  were  but  too  welcome ;  and  for  awhile  I  ceased 

to  feel  the  pressure  of  the  chain  that  fastens  me  here, 
and  the  privations  of  my  long  exile.  I  '11  try  to  show 
myself  worthy  of  your  kindness,  and  you  shall  see  that 
none  of  it  is  lost  upon  me ;  and  that  not  even  a  cup 
of  cold  water  given  in  the  spirit  of  love,  shall  lose  its 
reward. 

I  have  little  to  write  to  you.  I  was  for  several  days 
very  ill  with  a  cold  and  a  cough ;  but  they  are  gone, 
and  like  ungracious  visiters  will  not,  I  hope,  return. 

I  have  not  told  you  of  a  most  agreeable  visit  which  I 
have  recently  made,  nor  shall  I  now  do  any  thing  more 
than  refer  to  it,  in  the  most  cursory  manner.  There 
were  two  young  ladies  in  the  family,  examples  of  every 
thing  that  is  dutiful  and  courteous.     One  of  them  is  very 


LETTER    XCII.  317 

pretty,  who  gratifies  and  relieves  her  philoprogenitiveness 
by  taking  care  of  other  people's  children  ;  so  she  is  the 
teacher  and  almoner  of  a  large  Sunday  School.  The  other 
young  lady  is  as  homely  as  she  can  be,  without  being 
deformed,  but  whhal  so  intelligent,  so  agreeable,  and 
so  unaffectedly  kind,  that  in  truth,  I  took  leave  of  her, 
thinking  that  she  was  not  merely  good-looking,  but  posi- 
tively handsome  ;  such  is  the  charm  of  a  sweet  temper  and 
amiable  manners  !  When  you  see  an  angel's  goodness 
peeping  out  of  the  windows  of  the  countenance,  with  a 
radiance  which  spreads  over  even  the  homeliest  features, 
you  cannot  help  admiring  and  feeling,  that  moral  beauty 
is,  after  all,  the  highest  order  of  beauty.  Such  too,  is 
the  danger  of  trusting  wholly  to  first  impressions !  In 
the  beginning,  she  appeared  inaccessible,  and  almost 
repulsive,  but  on  acquaintance,  soon  brought  out  the 
brilliant  powers  of  her  intellect  and  the  charming  dispo- 
sitions of  her  heart,  and  disclosed  the  embodiment  of 
what  is  most  admirable  in  mind  and  character.     Adieu. 


LETTER   XCII. 

London,  1st  April,  1S45. 
My  Dear  A : 

Your  kind  letter  was  very  acceptable  to  me,  and  above 

all,  its  charming  accompaniment,  the   Daguerreotype  ; 

complete  the  good  work  by  adding  the  Mother's  and 

E 's,  and  be  assured  they  shall  stand  upon  my  table 

like  the  ancient  Lares,  or  household  divinities,  to  receive 

my  daily  homage.     Nothing  could  be  prettier  than  the 

•27* 


318         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

picture    of  the    little    lady ,  sitting    so  prim,  and 

looking  so  grave.  You  never  told  me  whether  she  got 
the  little  articles  of  furniture  which  1  sent  her  by  Mr. 

B ,  to  begin  housekeeping  with.     I  begin  to  feel  that 

I  shall  be  quite  in  the  background,  when  I  return  home. 

C ,  full  six  feet  in  height,  E ,  quite  matronly,  and 

it  would  not  surprise  me  if  there  should  presently  be  a 
few  straggling  gray  hairs  under  your  cap.  But  now  don't 
be  alarmed  about  them,  and  don't  put  on  a  cap  too  soon, 
and  don't  ever  think  of  wearing  false  curls,  which  here 
are  considered  quite  outre,  unless  the  head  is  bald ;  and 
you  see  as  many  plain,  gray,  and  silvered  locks  smoothly 
combed  down  over  the  forehead  of  the  women,  ^s  you 
see  gray  heads  among  the  men. 

The  last  month  I  have  been  rather  quiet,  in  London. 
The  early  part  of  March  was  cold  enough  for  New 
England ;  the  wind  strong,  and  the  air  charged  with 
dust,  which  was  less  comfortable  than  snow,  if  we  must 
have  one  or  the  other.  They  say  here,  however,  that  it 
has  been  the  coldest  winter  and  spring  remembered  for 
many  years.  I  went  by  engagement,  to  meet  a  party  at 
Lady  Byron's  ;  and  as  the  rest  of  the  party  were  all 
mated,  they  put  me  of  necessity  into  the  Bachelor's 
chamber,  where,  to  be  sure,  I  had  a  fire  and  every  prac- 
ticable comfort,  but  where,  with  a  northern  aspect  and  a 
situation  swept  by  all  the  winds  from  the  north  pole,  I 
verily  thought  I  should  be  frozen  stiff.  Indeed,  I  had 
some  doubts  of  my  personal  identity,  in  the  morning, 
and  had  to  feel  sometime  in  order  to  determine  that  I 
was  not  quite  an  icicle.  The  next  day,  I  went  upon  a 
visit  to  the  Earl  Lovelace's,  intending  to  have  spent  some 
days ;    but  it  was   in   truth,  so  cold,  and  I  myself  had 


LETTER    XCir.  319 

taken  so  severe  a  cold,  that  I  was  compelled  to  ask  an 
excuse,  and  return  to  town  after  one  night.  The  English 
houses  are  not  very  well  contrived  for  such  severe 
weather ;  and  the  habit  here  is  not  to  keep  the  houses 
very  warm.  The  English  do  not  appear  to  me  half  so 
sensitive  to  the  cold  as  wc  are.  I  believe  they  are  right 
in  the  main  in  this  matter,  and  that  we,  in  the  United 
States,  keep  our  houses  far  too  hot  for  health. 

We  have  now  two  Americans  here,  who  make  some 
little  talk  in  the  fashionable  world.  One  of  them,  the 
lady,  has  called  on  me  just  as  I  had  finished  the  last 
sentence.  I  refer  to  Miss  Cushman  and  Mr.  Fon'est. 
Mr.  Forrest  I  have  not  seen  ;  but  I  have  seen  Miss 
Cushman  twice.  I  met  with  her  first  at  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Walker's,  at  Brixton,  about  five  miles  from  London  ;  and 
understanding  that  she  brought  letters  from  Mr.  Furness 
and  Mr.  Giles,  I  have  been  anxious  to  render  her  every 
civility ;  which  seems  nothing  more  than  right  to  a  young 
countrywoman  alone  in  a  foreign  land,  who  is  entitled  by 
her  character  to  respect.  I  have  seen  her  play  twice  ; 
once  I  went  with  Mr.  Bates  and  family,  and  once 
alone.  I  saw  her  first  as  Mrs.  Haller,  in  the  Stranger, 
a  play  which  is  very  far  from  being  to  my  taste.  The 
next  time  I  saw  her,  was  as  Rosalind,  in  "  As  You  Like 
It."  In  both  of  them,  she  performed  to  admiration, 
and  with  great  applause.  As  they  say  here,  she  is 
an  exceedingly  cleve?'  woman  ;  and  the  applause  she 
commands,  evinces  her  distinguished  histrionic  talent. 
Some  people  call  her  a  second  Mrs.  Siddons  ;  but  it 
is  full  enough  for  me  to  judge  of  cows  and  heifers, 
without  assuming  to  be  a  theatrical  critic.  I  go  occa- 
sionally to  the   theatre,  but  not   often.      When   I  get 


320  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

solitary,  or  tired  and  sleepy  in  the  evening,  I  run  out  at 
nine  o'clock  and  crowd  into  the  pit,  and  get  about  half 
of  the  play,  and  the  whole  of  the  after-piece.  The 
theatres  are  all  around  me  ;  six  of  them  within  three 
minutes'  walk  ;  but  my  theatre  bill  will  not  be  enormous. 
I  have  been  at  a  great  many,  from  a  half-penny  admis- 
sion in  Ireland  and  Glasgow,  to  tickets  at  two  guineas 
at  the  Italian  Opera.  I  cannot  say  that  I  have  much 
taste  for  the  Opera  music,  especially  as  it  is  in  a  lan- 
guage which  I  do  not  understand.  But  the  scenery 
and  dresses  are  most  magnificent,  and  gratify  my  ideality 
in  the  highest  degree. 

I  believe,  likewise,  no  person  living  can  enjoy  good 
acting  more  than  I  do.  The  comedy  at  the  Haymarket 
is  of  the  finest  description,  and  I  am  only  sorry  that  I 
cannot  afford  the  time  and  money  to  enjoy  it  frequently. 
At  the  other  theatres,  however,  with  one  or  two  excep- 
tions, the  acting  is  excessively  vulgar  and  offensive  ;  and 
it  amazes  me  that  persons  of  intelligence,  or  even  child- 
ren, can  be  gratified  with  the  extravaganzas  which  are 
sometimes  exhibited,    and    especially  in    the    holidays. 


LETTER    XCIII. 

London,  2d  April,  1S45. 
56  Charing  Cross. 
JVTy  Dear  S : 

You  could  hardly  have  given  me  more  pleasure,  than 
by  telling  me  how  much  you  like  the  Scotch  Las- 
sie.    We  all  agree  here  there  is  nothing  prettier  in  the 


LETTER    XCIIl.  321 

shops,  and  your  silence  led  me  to  apprehend  that  my 
taste  must  be  at  fauh.  I  have  told  you  where  I  live  in 
London  —  no  place  could  be  more  central,  and  you  can 
have  no  conception  of  the  number  of  people,  carriages, 
&c.,  that  pass  continually  under  my  window.  I  am 
obliged  to  shut  out  the  view  entirely,  or  I  could  do 
nothing.  After  eleven  o'clock  in  the  forenoon,  until  ten 
o'clock  at  night,  I  do  not  believe  there  is  a  time  when  a 
thousand  people  cannot  be  counted  from  my  window  ; 
and  I  have  frequently  counted  the  lamps,  in  sight  in  the 
evening,  and  they  amount  to  one  hundred.  I  have  sev- 
eral times  asked  Londoners  how  many  omnibuses  they 
supposed  were  in  daily  use  in  London  :  they  have  said, 
in  reply,  they  should  think  nearly  one  thousand,  whereas, 
I  am  assured  that  the  amount  registered,  some  little  time 
ago,  was  six  thousand  and  fifty,  plying  daily  in  and  about 
London.  You  think  you  have  some  idea  of  the  number 
of  people  in  the  streets,  but  you  can  form  no  idea  of  the 
condition  of  some  of  the  great  thoroughfares,  from  twelve 
o'clock  until  seven.  I  was  curious  enough  one  day, 
standing  in  Hyde  Park,  a  pleasant  afternoon,  to  count 
the  carriages  of  the  nobility  and  gentry,  which  passed 
me  in  a  given  time.  In  eighteen  minutes  there  passed 
me  two  hundred  of  superb  four-wheeled  carriages  and 
equipages,  and  these  were  all  different,  and  taking  the 
circuit  of  the  Park.  This  very  minute  I  have  been  to 
the  window  and  counted  ten  omnibuses  at  once,  to  say 
nothing  of  cabs,  broughams,  chariots,  wagons,  handcarts, 
wheelbarrows,  donkey  carts,  stage-coaches,  iic,  &;c.,  &;c. 
The  miracle  is,  where  all  these  people  find  food  and 
lodging,  and  clothing.  In  a  pleasant  day  the  sight 
is    quite   as   amusing   on    the  river,   where   the  steam- 


322         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

boats,  loaded  with  passengers,  are  passing  every  minute ; 
and  on  London  Bridge  the  people  seem  as  thick  as  flies 
on  a  plate  of  molasses  in  summer.  The  shops,  likewise, 
are  most  magnificent,  full  of  every  thing,  and  full  of 
nothing ;  and  at  night,  the  illuminations  in  the  principal 
streets  are  among  the  most  beautiful  displays  of  art  that 
the  eye  can  look  upon,  and  seem  to  present  a  sort  of 
enchanted  land.  The  well-fed  English  people  differ 
widely  from  the  New  Englanders,  in  robustness  and  ful- 
ness of  health,  but  the  poor  and  laboring  people  are  ex- 
tremely squalid  and  filthy  in  their  appearance.  The 
higher  classes  are  eminently  neat  and  elegant,  without 
being  fine.  If  you  should  meet  a  very  fine  gentleman, 
you  may  set  him  down  as  one  of  the  swell  mob ;  and  if 
you  meet  a  very  fine  lady,  you  may  take  it  for  granted, 
she  is  a  lady  with  whom  you  would  desire  no  further  ac- 
quaintance. In  company,  however,  it  is  not  so,  and 
here  they  dress  in  the  richest  and  most  elegant  manner. 
The  contrasts  in  human  condition,  which  here  constantly 
meet  you,  are  most  painful.  There  are  a  great  many 
professional  beggars,  many  of  whom  I  know  perfectly 
well,  because  I  meet  them  in  their  daily  haunts,  and  they 
likewise  know  me,  and  now  never  solicit  charity  of  me ; 
but  there  are  others  whose  wants  and  distresses  are  all 
real,  and  as  bitter  as  bitter  can  be.  Things  are  not 
ordered  here  exactly  as  we  should  like  to  have  them, 
and  property  is  most  unequally  distributed  ;  but  by  what 
rule  a  new  distribution  is  to  be  made,  so  that  every  man, 
woman,  and  child,  shall  receive  their  just  proportion, 
requires  an  infinitely  wiser  head  than  mine  to  determine. 
Adieu, 


l.ETTER    XCIV.  323 

LETTER    XCIV. 

London,  3d  April,  1845. 
My  Dear  M . 

I  SELDOM  go  to  Parliament,  but  the  night  before  the 
last  I  attended  the  debates,  having,  by  the  kindness  of 
some  friends,  a  seat  in  the  Peer's  gallery,  which  is  com- 
fortable, and  gives  a  fine  opportunity  of  hearing  to  ad- 
vantage. The  subjects  in  general  debated  in  Parliament 
are  of  great  public  interest,  the  empire  embracing  a  pop- 
ulation of  one  hundred  and  fifty  millions,  extending  its 
power  and  authority  into  all  quarters  of  the  globe,  and 
connected  by  direct  interests  and  intercourse  with  every 
nation  of  the  civilized  world.  I  was  much  interested,  as 
I  always  am,  and  only  wish  I  could  afford  the  time  to 
attend  every  night. 

To-night  I  am  going  to  the  theatre.  Don  't  be  alamied. 
I  am  not  very  dissipated,  but  Miss  Cushman  is  very  de- 
sirous I  should  see  her  in  "  Much  Ado  About  Nothing," 
that  she  may  have  the  benefit  of  my  criticism,  and  I 
have  promised  to  attend.  Only  think  of  my  being  pro- 
posed as  a  theatrical  critic  —  an  occupation  which  I 
never  anticipated,  and  an  honor  to  which  I  really  did 
not  aspire.  However,  she  comes  here  with  excellent 
letters.  I  shall  be  glad  to  render  her  any  service  in  my 
power.  I  know  what  it  is  to  be  from  home,  and  how 
valuable  is  any  expression  of  a  kind  interest  in  your 
welfare. 

The  weather  here  now  has  become  delightful,  and 
while  I  look  out  occasionally  from  my  window  upon  the 


324  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

busy  and  active  thousands,  literally  thousands,  and  the 
bright  sunshine,  I  feel  very  much  like  a  prisoner  in 
confinement,  for  here  am  I,  fast  to  the  table,  without  the 
power  of  locomotion.  I  sometimes  get  dreadfully  hypoed  ; 
but  what  is  the  use  ?  my  work  must  be  done ;  if  I 
go  into  the  street,  the  sight  of  the  hundred  wretched, 
squalid,  friendless,  miserable  beggars  that  constantly 
solicits  your  charity,  soon  reconciles  me  and  silences  all 
complaint. 

The  Hardwickes  have  come  to  town,  and  I  have  re- 
ceived a  note  from  Lord  Hardwicke  to  breakfast  with 
them  to-morrow  morning  before  he  goes  to  the  palace, 
where  he  is  now  lord  in  waiting,  so  I  shall  have  the 

pleasure   of  seeing  these  kind  friends  again.     A 

asks  why  have  I  not  been  at  the  palace  ?  The  reason 
is,  I  have  not  been  presented.  Several  persons  of  rank 
have  urged  me,  and  kindly  proffered  their  services,  but 
from  various  private  and  personal  reasons,  I  have  de- 
clined.    Adieu. 


LETTER   XCV. 

London,  17th  April,  1845. 
My  Dear  A : 

This  morning  my  old  friend.  Dr.  Codman,  brought 

me  a  very  short  letter  from  you,  in  which  the  very  last 

thing  in  the  world  I  expected  from  you,  was  an  evident 

attempt  at  deception,  to  make  it  appear  much  longer 

than  it  really  was,  by  spreading  it  over  a  very  wide 

surface.     This,  however,  I  '11  say,  short  or  long,  it  was 


LETTKR     XCV.  396 

tmly  welcome ;  and  if  it  had  contained  nothing  more 
than  your  signature  it  would  have  been  worth  some- 
thing. But  why  don't  you  give  me  more  news  ?  One 
would  think  that  nothing  ever  happened  in  Salem ; 
and  yet  in  the  commonest  affairs  I  should  take  an  in- 
terest. 

I  was  extremely  sorry  to  learn  that  indisposition  pre- 
vented Mr.  Saltonstall's  coming  to  England.  I  have 
no  doubt  he  would  have  enjoyed  it,  and  it  would,  per- 
haps, have  added  ten  years  to  his  life.  Whether  it 
would  have  actually  increased  the  number  of  his  years, 
I  cannot  say,  but  with  his  enthusiastic  attachment  to 
England,  as  the  land  of  his  ancestors,  and  the  very  focus 
of  ci\nlization  and  refinement,  abounding  in  objects  to 
gratify  his  taste  and  to  delight  him,  he  would,  as  I  have 
done,  have  lived  five  years  in  one.  You  did  not  choose, 
either,  to  let  me  have  any  clerical  news.  I  hear  there 
is  a  great  noise  among  the  clergy  in  Boston  and  vicinity, 
and  that  the  infallible  Unitarian  body  is  divided.  Here 
continual  contests  are  going  on  among  members  of  the 
same  church,  but  the  different  sects  keep  quite  distinct 
from  each  other,  the  Unitarians  being  looked  upon  by 
all  the  others  with  a  pious  abhorrence.  I  am  myself 
merely  a  calm  philosophical  observer,  and  look  down  upon 
these  contests  with  amusement  often,  but  much  oftener 
with  chagrin  and  disgust.  I  wonder,  for  my  part,  that 
with  all  their  quarrels,  the  clergy  have  not  long  since 
thoroughly  extinguished  all  religion.  If  it  were  not  a 
native  element  of  the  human  mind,  and  really  a  part  of 
our  nature  and  constitution,  it  would  long  ago  have  been 
put  out. 

I  wish  you  could  see  London  at  this  gay  season.     In 
-28 


326         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

the  principal  thoroughfares  it  requires  great  skill  to  pre- 
vent being  loin  down  or  running  other  people  down,  and 
so  sure  as  you  turn  your  head  or  stop,  you  are  certain  of 
some  one's  running  against  you.  At  the  great  crossings 
you  have  often  to  wait  minutes  before  you  can  get  over, 
and  I  have  seen  actually  fifty  people  collected,  waiting 
for  a  passage,  or  an  interval  between  the  carriages,  when 
they  may  run  across  as  if  for  their  lives.  The  grocer 
who  keeps  next  to  my  lodgings  says  it  is  judged  that 
twenty-five  thousand  horses  pass  under  my  window 
daily ;  the  account  has  sometimes  been  kept  as  accu- 
rately as  it  could  be,  and  I  have  no  doubt  of  it.  On  a 
pleasant  day  the  river  is  covered  almost  as  thickly  with 
boats,  steamboats,  rowboats,  &£c.,  &;c.,  as  the  streets 
with  carriages.  The  names  of  some  of  the  steamboats 
are  amusing  —  Starlight,  Daylight,  Twilight,  Maid,  Bach- 
elor, Matrimony,  Bride,  Bridegroom  ;  and  they  put  in  and 
take  off  passengers  continually,  at  all  the  different  land- 
ings, where  you  see  people  waiting  in  crowds,  present- 
ing quite  a  picturesque  scene.  The  day  in  London  can 
scarcely  be  said  to  close  until  about  two  o'clock  in 
the  morning  ;  cabs  are  to  be  found  at  all  hours  every 
night,  and  the  coal  carts  and  market  carts  begin  to  move 
about  five  o'clock.  The  great  rush  is  from  about  twelve 
o'clock  to  six.  Parliament  adjourns  about  half-past 
twelve,  though  in  an  excited  debate  they  sit  much  later. 
Parties  never  separate  until  twelve,  and  balls  continue 
usually  until  four ;  and  I  have  seen  persons  going  home 
after  daylight.  The  police  are  always  about  at  the  dif- 
ferent corners,  and  the  wretched  women  abound  in  the 
streets  all  night.  After  midnight  they  are  always  to  be 
found  intoxicated  —  in  my  opinion  the  most  pitiable  ob- 


LETTER     XCV.  327 

jects  in  human  existence  ;  poor,  poor,  poor,  despised, 
abused,  degraded  creatures  ;  many  of  them  beautiful  in 
their  persons,  splendidly  dressed,  and  of  amiable  disposi- 
tions ;  and  many  of  them,  I  have  no  doubt,  well  educated 
and  of  respectable  parentage,  but  betrayed  and  aban- 
doned. 

The  theatres  close  soon  after  twelve.  Most  of  them 
are  crowded  ;  and  in  all  the  superior  ones  the  manners 
are  as  correct  as  in  a  drawing  room,  and  nothing  offen- 
sive presents  itself.  The  billiard  rooms,  the  gin  palaces, 
and  the  beer  shops  professedly  close  at  twelve,  but  they 
have  always  a  crack  of  the  door  open,  or  some  back 
passage,  where  the  knowing  ones  can  enter,  and  as  you 
pass  you  can  hear  the  evidences  of  a  collection  inside. 
I  have  frequently  been  into  them  in  the  evening,  and 
taking  no  notice  of  anybody,  asked  for  a  glass  of  beer, 
that  I  might,  unobserv^ed,  see  what  was  going  on ;  and 
you  may  find  in  these  places  almost  as  many  women  as 
men,  the  wives  of  mechanics  and  laborers.  But  I  have 
given  you  enough  of  London  for  this  time.  We  are  en- 
tertained with  a  frightful  murder  once  a  week,  and  for 
the  last  three  weeks  with  an  execution.  Two  more 
wretches  are  on  hand  waiting  their  turn.  I  think  we 
need  another  flood  to  purify  the  earth.     Adieu. 


3'28  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 


LETTER    XCVI. 

EXTRACT. 

London,  2d  May,  1845. 

I  HAD  written  so  far,  when  I  was  again  interrupted 
by  one  of  those  acts  of  kindness  which  are  meeting  me 
at  every  step.  Count  Rzewuski,  (pronounced  Javuski,) 
one  of  the  distinguished  men  of  Austrian  Poland,  who 
brought  a  letter  of  introduction  to  me,  and  to  whom  I 
have  had  it  in  my  power  to  render  some  attentions, 
which  he  has  been  kind  enough  to  estimate  more  highly 
than  they  deserve,  has  just  sent  me  some  letters  to  Vienna, 
Trieste,  and  Rome,  which  will  give  me,  he  says,  access 
to  the  first  people  in  those  countries,  and  to  see  every 
thing  which  I  may  wish  to  see.  The  first  is  to  Count 
Alfred  Potochi,  Vienna,  the  largest  land  owner  in  Prus- 
sian Poland,  and  an  intimate  friend  of  Prince  Metter- 
nich,  the  Prime  Minister.  His  daughter  married  Prince 
Liechtenstein. 

The  second  to  Baron  Joscha,  Vienna,  one  of  the 
most  distinguished  men  of  the  Hungarian  nobility,  and  a 
government  officer,  intimate  with  the  Schwarzenburg 
family,  who  own  half  of  Bohemia. 

The  third  is  to  Count  Francois  Stadion,  Trieste,  a 
large  land  owner,  in  Austrian  Poland,  and  a  man  of 
great  knowledge  and  influence. 

The  fourth  is  to  his  own  brother,  a  cardinal  at  Rome, 
a  friend  of  all  the  distinguished  men  at  Rome,  and  who 


LETTER     XCVn. 

will  introduce  me  to  the  Borghese  family,  and  to  every 
distinguished  person  and  place  I  may  wish  to  visit.  I 
am  not  certain  of  spelling  these  names  correctly.  The 
next  question  is,  shall  I  avail  myself  of  such  splendid 
opportunities  for  information  and  the  gratification  of  a 
reasonable  curiosity  ?  In  any  event,  the  kindness  and 
politeness  are  the  same.  The  Danish  Ambassador,  the 
Belgian  Ambassador,  and  the  Prussian  Ambassador, 
have  all  kindly  offered  me  letters  of  introduction  to  the 
continent. 


LETTER   XCVII. 

London,  June  3,  1845. 
My  Dear  M : 

The  fashionable  world  is  here  all  awake,  to  attend 
the  Queen's  ball  —  a  hal  costume,  to  be  given  at  the 
palace.  The  dresses  are  to  be  of  the  time  of  George  II. 
—  ridiculous  enough  —  powdered  heads  and  wigs,  tight 
waists,  shorts,  and  shoe  buckles,  &;c.,  &;c.  The  lowest 
sum  at  which  a  gentleman's  dress  can  be  had,  is  sixty 
guineas  ;  a  lady's  dress,  thirty  guineas.  This,  of  course, 
does  not  include  diamonds,  &ic.,  &;c.  A  lady,  who  is 
going,  told  me  that  the  charge  of  the  barber  for  dressing  a 
lady's  hair,  is  £5,  or  twenty-five  dollars.  Only  four  hun- 
dred invitations  are  given  out,  and  of  these,  fifty  were  de- 
clined at  once,  on  account  of  the  expense.  The  foreign 
ambassadors  wished  to  go  in  their  usual  dresses,  for  this 
reason.  The  Queen  said  they  might  decline,  but  if  they 
came,  they  must  conrre  in  the  appointed  costume.  The 
28* 


330         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

fancy  and  full  dress  ball,  for  the  benefit  of  the  Polish 
exiles,  follows  the  week  after,  when  the  same  dresses  are 
expected  to  be  worn  by  many.  For  that,  the  Duchess 
of  Bedford  has  been  kind  enough  to  send  me  a  voucher, 
and  I  shall  attend,  but  certainly  not  in  a  fancy  dress. 

Lord  Hatherton  urges  me  to  go  to  his  country-house, 
and  stay  as  long  as  I  choose.  He  says  he  should  really 
like  it.  I  should  find  servants,  horses,  and  every  thing  I 
want,  at  my  service.  This  is  very  kind,  and  I  believe 
he  means  what  he  says.  I  have  half  a  dozen  similar 
invitations.     Adieu, 


LETTER   XCVin. 

London,  16th  June,  1845. 
56  Charing  Cross. 

My  Dear  M : 

I  HAVE  your  kind  letter  by  the  last  steamer,  only 
thirteen  days  old,  which  in  other  times  than  these,  would 
have  been  deemed  an  impossibility  ;  now,  however,  when 
the  communication  between  distant  places  is  by  the  elec- 
tric telegraph  rendered  absolutely  instantaneous,  nothing 
of  this  sort  surprises  us  ;  and  even  clairvoyance  and  mes- 
merism are  set  at  defiance.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Pendarves, 
who  spare  no  pains  to  show  me  whatever  is  interest- 
ing and  curious,  took  me  to  see  the  working  of  this 
wonderful  apparatus  ;  the  transmission  of  information,  a 
distance  of  twenty  miles,  and  the  return  of  an  answer, 
did  not  occupy  one  minute  ;  and  a  distance  as  great  as 
the  diameter  of  the  earth  would  have  scarcely  made  any 


LETTER      XCVIII.  331 

perceptible  difference.  Indeed,  intelligence  in  tins  way 
may  be  said  to  travel  faster  than  time ;  for  if  you  should 
undertake  to  inform  the  people  in  Liverpool  that  it  is  now 
twelve  o'clock  in  London,  the  information  would  reach 
there  sometime  before  the  revolution  of  the  earth  would 
bring  that  place  to  the  meridian.  I  should  like  to  be 
sent  along  this  line  to  your  side,  though  I  am  afraid  at 
that  rate,  I  should  be  too  much  out  of  breath  to  say  all 
that  I  should  want  to  say. 

They  took  me,  likewise,  on  another  occasion,  (calling 
at  my  lodgings  in  their  carriage,)  to  see  the  silver  foun- 
tain to  be  sent  to  the  Turkish  Pacha,  Mohammed  Ali,  as 
a  present  for  his  kindness  to  the  English,  even  when  at 
war  with  them,  in  allowing  them  to  pass  the  Isthmus  of 
Suez,  on  their  way  to  India ;  an  act  of  forbearance  and 
kindness,  which  it  would  be  quite  idle  to  look  for,  ordi- 
narily, in  a  Christian  nation.  The  vase  is  magnificent 
in  the  extreme,  but  not  tasteful.  Tiie  workmanship  is 
wonderfully  elaborate.  Its  weight  is  ten  thousand,  four 
hundred  ounces,  or  upwards  of  eight  hundred  and  sixty- 
six  pounds,  and  its  cost,  about  £7,000,  or  ^35,000. 

The  third  great  object  of  interest,  now  on  exhibition 
here,  is  the  marble  statue  of  the  Greek  Slave  by  Mr.  Pow- 
ers, the  sculptor,  formerly  of  Cincinnati.  It  is  the  statue 
of  a  young  girl,  entirely  nude,  with  a  chain  upon  her  hands, 
and  expressive  of  grief  and  shame  for  her  captivity  and  ex- 
posure. He  had,  it  is  said,  several  models  to  work  from. 
At  first  I  was  disposed  to  think  that  his  model  was  not 
so  good  as  that  of  either  of  the  Three  Graces  selected  by 
Canova ;  but  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  it  is  as  true 
to  nature  ;  and  certainly  it  is  preeminently  beautiful. 
Sculpture  seems  to  me  ahiiost  a  divine  art,  and  the  sue- 


332         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

cess  of  Powers  in  this  case  is  triumphant ;  for  he  has 
disarmed  prejudice  and  silenced  ill-natured  criticism,  and 
his  work  receives,  with  scarcely  an  exception,  universal 
admiration. 

The  next  subject  of  public  interest,  which  has  en- 
grossed everybody's  conversation,  has  been  the  Queen's 
dress  ball,  at  which  the  guests  were  expected  to  appear 
in  the  costumes  of  a  hundred  years  ago,  and  consequently 
to  personate  the  manners  of  the  Court  at  that  time.  I 
think  I  mentioned  this  to  you  in  my  last  letter.  If  I 
repeat  my  accounts  you  must  excuse  me,  for  I  am  unable 
to  preserve  any  thing  like  copies  of  my  letters,  and 
hardly  a  recollection  of  their  contents.     I  have  sent  to 

E a  pictorial    paper,  which  will    give    you    some 

notion  of  the  show.     I  dined  that  day  with  Lord  and 

Lady  ,    and   waited  until  they   were    dressed  for 

the  occasion.  The  room  was  filled  with  friends  before 
they  left,  and  there  was  a  perfect  crowd  in  the  streets 
to  see  them  get  into  their  carriage.  It  was  rather  difficult 
to  understand  how  she  would  manage  with  her  hoop  in 
getting  through  the  door ;  but  she  does  every  thing 
gracefully,  and  would  have  gone  through  a  key-hole,  for 
aught  I  know,  had  it  been  required.  Powder  was  gen- 
erally worn  by  the  ladies;  wigs  by  all  the  gentlemen, 
and  by  many  of  the  ladies.  I  saw  her  the  next  day  by 
appointment,  and  I  could  not  help  feeling  that,  when 
"  unadorned  she  was  adorned  the  most,"  and  that  she 
needed  neither  powder  nor  paste,  nor  any  external  em- 
bellishments, to  make  her  as  handsome  and  agreeable  as 
it  is  safe  for  one  to  look  upon.  Mr.  Everett  appeared 
as  Benjamin  Franklin,  and,  as  I  was  told,  "showed  off 
to  great  advantage." 


LETTER    XCVIII.  333 

I  did  not  attend  the  ball  of  course,  an  invitation  being 
impossible,  as  I  have  never  been  presented  at  Court, 
and  I  should  not  have  been  certain  of  it,  if  I  had.  13ut 
I  have  seen,  since  that  time,  with  the  exception  of  roy- 
alty itself,  a  repetition  of  the  same  show.  I  attended 
the  Polish  full  and  fancy  dress  ball,  given  on  Friday  last, 
for  the  benefit  of  the  Polish  exiles,  in  which  all  the  prin- 
cipal ladies  and  gentlemen,  who  were  at  the  Queen's 
ball,  appeared  in  the  same  dresses  which  they  wore  on 
that  occasion.  I  went,  as  matter  of  curiosity,  at  ten 
o'clock,  and  left  for  home  at  three  in  the  morning ;  and 
I  '11  assure  you,  grand  as  the  occasion  was,  felt  rather 
disturbed  to  be  walking  home  after  such  an  evening's  dis- 
sipation, by  broad  day  Ught ;  for  in  this  latitude,  at  this 
season,  the  day  dawns  at  two  o'clock.  I  left  two-thirds 
of  the  party,  when  I  came  away  ;  and  whether  they  got 
home  by  Saturday  night  or  before  Sunday,  I  cannot  say. 
I  myself,  of  course,  went  in  no  other  fancy  dress  than  a 
plain  suit  of  black ;  and  I  had  a  very  fair  support, 
though  tRe  great  majority,  indeed  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  company,  were  in  court  or  fancy  dresses.  The  rooms 
were  excessively  crowded,  and  the  heat  intense.  No 
supper  was  provided  excepting  tea  and  coffee,  and  lemon- 
ade, bread  and  butter,  and  small  cakes,  and  ices  ;  but  no 
wine  or  spirits,  or  meats.  The  dresses  were  exceedingly 
brilliant,  and  such  an  array  of  glittering  diamonds  as 
were  worn  by  some  of  the  ladies,  surpassed  any  thing 
which  I  have  before  seen.  The  ball  was  given  at  Al- 
mack's,  or  Willis's  rooms,  and  the  company  was  of  the 
highest  rank  and  fashion.  Minuets  were  danced,  quad- 
rilles and  waltzes,  Highland  reels,  k,c.,  <kc.  Two  very 
large  rooms  for  dancing  were  opened,  besides  the  side 


334         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

rooms,  and  yet  they  were  greatly  crowded.  It  is  said,  for 
elegance  never,  on  any  public  occasion,  to  have  been  sur- 
passed. I  am  very  glad  to  have  seen  it,  but  once  is 
enough  for  me,  and  I  have  no  desire  for  a  repetition. 
Five  guineas  were  given  by  some  persons  to  obtain  a 
ticket.  At  the  court  ball,  it  is  said,  that  the  dresses  of 
some  of  the  gentlemen,  without  diamonds,  cost  five  hun- 
dred guineas,  or  more  than  ^'2,500,  and  one  lady  wore 
£60,000,  or  f  300,000  worth  of  diamonds.  Lord  Mor- 
peth was  one  of  the  most  elegantly  and  expensively 
dressed  gentlemen,  and  seemed  himself  not  a  little  amused 
with  his  wig  and  appearance.  I  should  at  once  have 
recognized  him.  The  Duchess  of  Bedford  presided,  and 
was  extremely  well  dressed.  The  Duchess  of  Suther- 
land was  most  magnificently  apparelled,  but  she  is  so 
handsome  that  nothing  appears  amiss  with  her ;  she 
wore  powder,  but  no  wig.  The  Duchess  of  Roxburgh, 
whom  I  do  not  know,  appeared  most  splendidly ;  and 
well  she  might,  as  the  annual  income  of  the  Duke  is 
stated  to  be  £300,000.  There  was  a  large  party  of 
young  ladies,  who  were  appointed  to  dance  in  a  certain 
quadrille,  dressed  in  plain  white  muslin  and  satin  skirts, 
with  a  simple  rosette  on  the  front  of  their  gowns  and  on 
their  side,  and  a  plain  cincture  of  diamonds  round  the 
head  ;  with  the  hair  combed  plain,  and  without  powder ; 
who  were  much  to  my  taste,  and  were  universally  ad- 
mired. One  of  them,  with  whom  I  am  much  acquainted, 
appeared  extremely  well,  and  I  could  not  help  telling 
her  that  I  saw  no  one  in  the  room  dressed  in  better  taste 
than  herself;  I  did  not  add,  as  I  might  in  good  faith  have 
done,  that  I  saw  no  one  by  any  means  so  handsome  as 
herself.     The  handsomest  dresses  in  the  room  were  I 


L,KTTt:K  xcvm.  335 

think,  upon  the  wliole,  several  of  plain  pink  lace,  over  a 
satin  skirt  and  plain  pink  silk  dresses.  Two  or  three 
ladies  appeared  as  Night,  wearing  dark  velvet  hahits, 
with  black  lace  veils,  reaching  almost  to  the  ground, 
which  were  covered  with  stars,  and  velvet  jockey  hats 
or  bonnets,  with  stars  of  diamonds,  and  the  new  moon 
appearing  among  the  stars,  carrying  in  their  hands  a  sil- 
ver wand,  surmounted  with  a  crescent,  as  well  as  I  could 
make  it  out.  These  dresses  attracted  great  attention,  but 
I  thought  were  not  much  admired.  The  Highland  gen- 
tlemen, in  their  country  costume,  with  their  legs  bare  above 
the  gaiters,  and  extending  some  ways  above  the  knees, 
especially  when  they  sat  down,  were  perfectly  disgusting. 
The  dresses  of  the  ladies  were  without  exception  extreme- 
ly modest ;  I  think  I  may  say  more  so  than  I  have  seen 
at  many  evening  and  dinner  parties.  The  dancing  was 
graceful  and  elegant,  and  the  old  figure  dances  were 
very  pleasing.  I  remember  perfectly  well,  when  a  boy, 
to  have  seen  ladies  in  powder,  and  the  minuets  danced 
with  great  elegance  and  grace.  There  must  have  been 
a  great  deal  of  practice  here,  to  have  prepared  themselves 
so  well.  The  minuet,  I  hope,  will  come  in  fashion  again  ; 
it  is  very  pleasing  and  full  of  grace.  But  I  cannot,  under 
any  circumstances,  be  reconciled  to  the  waltz,  which 
seems  to  me,  except  among  brothers  and  sisters,  or  mem- 
bers of  the  same  family,  to  border  upon  indelicacy. 

So  much  for  the  ball.  I  have  seen  it  once  ;  that  quite 
satisfies  me.  I  am  not  going  to  philosophize  or  moralize 
upon  it.  I  am  happy  to  see  people  enjoy  themselves  in  any 
way  by  which  they  and  others  are  not  injured.  I  admire 
elegance  of  dress,  grace  of  manner,  splendor  of  decoration 
and  embellishment,  and  all  that ;  and  I  am  glad  to  see 


336         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

money  collected  for  useful  and  benevolent  purposes. 
If  persons  cannot  be  induced  to  give  money  for  the  sake 
of  charity,  let  them  give  it  for  their  own  gratification, 
that  it  may  be  applied  to  purposes  of  charity.  But, 
in  this  case,  there  are  many  things  to  be  said  for  and 
against,  which  require  to  be  considered,  in  order  to  make 
up  a  just  judgment,  and  which  I  have  not  time  now 
to  discuss.  The  elegance,  the  magnificence,  the  splen- 
dor, the  costliness,  were  much  beyond  what  I  have  been 
accustomed  to  see.  I  should  have  said  that  many  of  the 
ladies,  who  wore  powder,  were  a  good  deal  rouged,  and 
several  of  them  wore  patches  of  court  plaster,  which 
certainly  did  not  improve  them. 

I  was  very  glad,  a  week  since,  to  get  a  little  relief  in  the 
country.  Mr.  Wake,  who  goes  out  in  this  boat  to  the 
United  States,  and  to  whom  I  have  given  introductions  to 
several  gentlemen,  invited  me  to  make  a  visit  at  his  father's, 
about  sixty  miles  from  London,  and  attend  a  large  agri- 
cultural meeting  in  the  neighborhood.  The  father  is  a 
venerable  clergyman,  and  the  mother  a  daughter  of  the 
celebrated  lawyer,  Mr.  Grattan,  formerly  of  Ireland. 
His  uncle.  Sir  William  Wake,  lives  directly  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, in  great  elegance  and  comfort.  In  these  two 
fannilies  I  passed  three  or  four  most  agreeable  days,  and  re- 
turned to  town  greatly  benefited  by  the  excursion  ;  before 
I  went  I  was  worth  nothing.  The  parish  of  this  gen- 
tleman contains  about  twenty-five  families  ;  the  church, 
a  venerable  building  only  two  steps  from  the  door  of  the 
rectory,  would  contain,  perhaps,  a  hundred  people ;  the 
living,  besides  the  garden  and  field,  is  about  two  thousand 
dollars  ;  and  here,  in  the  midst  of  every  thing  tasteful 
and    elegant,    remote    from    the    public    roads,   and    in 


LETTKK    XtlX.  337 

a  park  of  several  hundred  acres,  with  gardens  and  forests, 
and  cultivated  fields  around  them,  these  people  are  lead- 
ing a  most  quiet  and  philosophical  life.  I  told  them 
they  need  not  claim  any  merit  for  being  good,  for  really 
there  was  no  chance  for  a  temptation  to  do  wrong. 

I  have  not  yet  been  able  to  obtain  such  lodgings  as  I 
wish  in  the  country,  but  I  hope  to  shortly,  as  the  weather 
for  a  few  days,  in  London,  has  been  excessively  hot  and 
disagreeable.  I  am  going  to-morrow  down  into  Hamp- 
shire, to  pass  a  few  days  at  Mr.  Nightingale's,  where  I 
anticipate  a  quiet  and  useful,  and  most  agreeable  visit. 
Adieu. 


LETTER    XCIX. 

London,  16tli  July,  1843. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  SEND  you  a  little  volume  of  Hymns,  used  at  Finsbury 
Chapel,  which  I  hope  you  will  read  with  the  same 
delight  and  rapture  with  which  I  often  hear  them  sung. 
The  music  at  the  Chapel  where  they  are  used,  is  cer- 
tainly the  best  I  ever  heard  in  any  place  ;  and  the 
hearing  of  it  quite  worth  a  voyage  across  the  Atlantic. 
In  many  cases  it  is  absolutely  overpowering.  I  often  go 
there  for  the  sake  of  hearing  it,  and  of  hearing  likewise 
the  most  original  preacher  that  has  ever  come  under  my 
notice,  (Mr.  Fox)  ;  not  always  to  my  taste,  not  always 
in  accordance  with  my  opinions,  but  his  discourses  are 
full  of  thought,  and  bright  with  the  treasures  of  the 
imagination.     Yours  truly. 

29 


338         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS.  - 

LETTER   C. 

London,  17th  July,  1845. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  AM  delighted  to  hear  you  are  going  to  recreate 
yourself  in  the  country.  I  dare  say  you  will  be  glad  to 
learn  that  I  have  escaped  the  distracting  bustle  and  din 
of  London,  for  quiet  lodgings  at  Islington.  My  new 
lodgings,  where  I  have  been  now  three  days,  promise 
well.  They  are  four  miles  from  Charing  Cross,  in  a 
quiet,  clean  street,  and  every  thing  seems  agreeable.  It 
is  not  difficult  to  find  lodgings  in  London,  but  it  is  very 
difficult  to  find  exactly  such  as  one  would  desire.  I 
certainly  applied  at  fifty  places,  and  excepting  where  I 
am,  I  could  find  none  that  were  even  decent,  under 
eighteen,  twenty,  or  thirty  shillings  and  more,  per  week, 
and  this  "  out  of  season."  But  here,  with  small,  though 
neat  accommodations,  I  am  to  pay  only  ten  shillings, 
without  any  extras  whatever.  It  can  hardly  be  called 
out  of  London,  though  it  is  quite  removed  from  its  bustle 
and  interruptions. 

I  have  been  invited  to  go  to  Shrewsbury  and  Chester, 
to  make  a  visit,  but  have  declined.  Lady  Byron,  whose 
kindness  has  been  unintermitted,  wrote  to  me  that  she  had 
procured  quiet  lodgings  for  me  at  Leicester,  which  I  was 
compelled  to  decline.  Lord  Hatherton  desires  me  to 
come  to  Teddesley,  and  meet  several  distinguished  per- 
sons, and  spend  some  time  there  ;  but  that  I  must  decline, 
as  I  do  not  mean  by  any  inducement  to  be  taken  off  my 
work. 


LETTER     C.  339 


I  have  seen  hosts  of  Americans  ;  and  to  IMiss  C- 


I  have  had  the  pleasure  of  paying  many  attentions  ;  and 
when  I  look  hack  upon  the  course  of  kindness  which  that 
family  has  shown  to  me  for  nearly  forty  years,  beginning 
with  the  grandparents  on  both  sides,  father,  mother,  he, 
&LC.,  I  feel  that  any  thing  which  I  can  do  for  her,  would 
be  a  very  imperfect  return.  I  went  sight-seeing  with  her, 
shopping  with  her,  to  the  theatre,  and  to  the  opera  twice 
with  her.  Indeed,  I  never  passed  so  dissipated  a  week. 
She  had  her  carnage  all  the  time,  and  the  horses,  I  believe, 
had  little  rest.     But  I  must  tell  you  my  adventures  with 

another  young  lady.  Miss  D .     She  came  out  here 

on  her  way  to  visit  a  sister,  who  resides  in  Paris.  I  saw 
a  note  of  hers  on  Monday,  requesting  the  gentleman  to 

whom  it  was  addressed,  Mr.  C ,  to  come  to  her  at 

the  Colonnade  Hotel,  as  she  was  in  great  distress.  As 
he  could  not  go,  I  immediately  volunteered  to  go,  know- 
ing as  I  did  her  father  and  friends  very  well.  I  intro- 
duced myself  to  her,  and  she  soon  recognized  me. 

I  found  her  weeping  bitterly,  and  insisted  upon  her 
telling   me  the  cause  of  her  trouble.     She   had  never 

known  Mr.  C except  on  board  the  boat ;  and  it  was 

by  mere  accident  that  the  servant  had  found  him,  (for 
she  did  not  know  his  hotel,)  a  thing  which  could 
scarcely  be  done  in  London,  once  in  a  thousand  times. 
She  at  last  told  me  that  she  had  been  placed,  at  the 
commencement  of  her  voyage,  under  the  care  of  a  Dr. 

K ,  and  arrived  at  the  hotel  on  Saturday  evening,  at 

ten  o'clock.  On  Sunday,  after  breakfast,  he  left  her 
alone  in  the  hotel ;  and  when  in  the  evening  hearing  a 
noise  in  his  chamber,  she  sent  to  inquire  for  him,  a 
servant  brought  her  word  that  he  had  paid  his  bill,  taken 


340  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

away  his  luggage,  and  gone  to  private  lodgings.  In  the 
morning  he  came  back,  and  giving  her  a  railroad  and 
steamboat  bill  of  times  and  distances,  he  told  her  he  was 
not  going  to  Paris,  and  she  could  find  her  way  alone. 

For  a  young  lady  to  be  thus  left  alone  all  night,  in  a 
strange  hotel  in  the  midst  of  London,  not  having  a  single 
acquaintance  in  the  town,  and  to  be  expected  without 
any  knowledge  of  the  language,  or  country,  to  find  her 
own  way  to  Paris,  a  thing  which  I  even  could  not  do 
without  a  good  deal  of  trouble,  is  a  most  extraordinary 
affair.     I  never  heard  of  such  conduct. 

She  expressed  the  greatest  anxiety  to  get  on,  as  her 
sister  was  ill,  and  would  be  unhappy  at  her  delay.  I 
then  told  her  I  would  take  her  under  my  care,  and  if  I 
could  find  no  other  proper  person  to  go  with  her,  I 
would  go  myself,  if  for  no  other  purpose  than  to  see  her 
safely  landed.  I  then  found  lodgings  for  her  with  some 
friends,  who  I  knew  were  acquainted  with  her  family, 
and  for  whom  I  had  obtained  comfortable  apartments 
near  myself,  and  told  them  they  must  take  her  into  their 
family.  As  I  went  afterwards  to  have  her  passport  pre- 
pared, I  met  accidentally  with  Mr.  Fleischman,  of  the 
Patent  Office  at  Washington,  whom  I  knew  very  well, 
and  who  was  on  his  way  to  Paris  ;  and  who  promised 
he  would  see  her  safe  to  her  friends. 

On  Thursday  morning,  I  put  her  into  the  cars  for 
Southampton  to  Paris,  as  happy  a  creature  as  you  ever 
saw  ;  and  have  since  had  a  most  grateful  letter  from  her, 
informing  me  that  Mr.  F.  did  not  leave  her  until  she 
shook  hands  with  her  sister. 

My  good  friend,  Dr.  Parkman,  has  returned  here, 
full   now  of  sunshine,  with   his   face,  as   he  would   say, 


LETTER    C.  341 

Zionward.  I  expect  my  head  will  be  nothing  but  one 
mass  of  phosphorus,  when  my  face  is  turned  homewards. 
Mr.  Saltonstall's  death  I  greatly  dejjlore.  I  con- 
sidered him  a  man  of  uncommon  worth,  and  a  blessing 
and  honor  to  the  town.  He  was  a  man  of  cultivated 
mind  and  refined  taste,  and  a  remarkable  exception  to 
those  narrow  views,  which  eminence  in  any  one  of  the 
learned  professions  is  too  apt  to  produce.  He  was  dis- 
tinguished by  his  conscientiousness  and  his  enlarged 
sentiments,  and  there  was  no  man,  in  whose  sense  of 
right  and  justice,  I  should  have  more  strongly  confided. 
To  his  family,  his  loss  is  perfectly  irreparable. 


I  am  not  disposed  to  quarrel  with  the  institutions  or 
customs  of  any  foreign  country,  but  here,  they  are  in 
many  respects,  very  different  from  those  in  which  I  have 
been  educated.  With  us,  you  know,  education  takes 
precedence  of  every  thing  else,  but  here  rank  is  always 
in  the  ascendant.  A  private  tutor  in  general,  though 
he  may  be  a  graduate  from  Oxford  or  Cambridge,  yet 
occupies  a- comparatively  humble  position  ;  and  so,  also, 
with  a  governess,  even  of  finished  education.  As  a  man 
of  education  and  proper  self-respect,  I  could  never  con- 
sent, as  I  have  seen  it  done,  to  be  called  in  to  prayers 
when  the  servants  came  in,  and  not  introduced  to  any  of 
the  company  present,  and,  after  prayers,  sent,  or  rather 
expected  to  retire  to  my  own  room,  where  I  was  to 
take  my  breakfast  by  myself,  or  with  the  children,  though 
that  breakfast  or  dinner  might  be  served  on  gold  or  silver 
plate.  It  is,  however,  quite  remarkable  to  witness  the 
29* 


342        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

idolatry  with  which  rank  is  here  regarded  ;  and  most  of  the 
lower  classes  seem  to  me  to  take  more  pleasure  and  pride 
in  admiring  it,  than  the  possessors  do  in  its  enjoyment. 

I  told  you  I  had  been  at  the  opera  twice  with  Miss 

C ,  but  I  could  not  but  feel  there  might  have  been 

a  better  use  for  the  four  guineas  which  were  paid  for  our 
two  tickets.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  three 
guineas  apiece  were  offered  for  a  ticket.  Mr.  Wetmore 
was  kind  enough  to  offer  me  a  seat  the  same  evening  in 
his  box.  For  his  box,  which  would  only  admit  three 
persons,  he  paid,  I  think,  about  seven  guineas,  or  thirty- 
six  dollars.  I  will  not  deny,  however,  that  I  enjoyed 
the  entertainment  exceedingly.  The  scenery  and  dresses 
are  splendid  beyond  description.  The  tout  ensemble  of 
the  house,  crowded  with  persons  in  full  dress,  and  with 
all  the  rank  and  fashion  of  England,  is  extremely  mag- 
nificent. The  music,  excepting  the  choruses,  which 
are  not  to  my  taste,  is,  I  suppose,  as  good  as  the  world 
affords.  But  the  dancing  of  Taglioni,  whom  I  have  for 
years  desired  to  see,  far  exceeded  my  expectations.  I 
never  saw  so  sylph-like  and  fairy  a  being.  I  never, 
indeed,  before  saw  a  person  who  could  walk  upon  air. 
The  singing,  however,  exquisite  as  it  is,  does -not  equal 
that  which  I  hear  whenever  I  go  to  Finsbury  Chapel. 

Since  I  wrote  to  you,  I  have  dined  with  a  large  party 
of  gentlemen  at  Greenwich.  There  are  several  London 
companies,  who  dine  together  frequently.  This  was  the 
Cordwainers'  Company,  one  of  the  oldest  in  London, 
and  now  embraces  many  persons  of  education,  who 
come  in  by  hereditary  descent.  These  dinners,  at  which 
I  have  several  times  been  present,  are  always  of  the 
most  luxurious  description,  the  viands  most  choice,  and 


LETTER    CI.  343 

the  wines  the  most  costly.  They  are  paid  for  out  of  the 
funds  of  the  company,  which,  in  some  cases,  have  accu- 
mulated to  an  immense  amount.  Each  of  the  compa- 
nies provides  for  its  poor  and  decayed  members.  I 
confess  I  had  some  distrust  as  to  the  use  of  the  money, 
which  afforded  such  means  of  doing  good,  in  such 
frequent  and  splendid  entertainments  ;  but  my  distrust 
was  quieted,  under  the  acknowledged  and  proper  right 
of  every  man,  or  body  of  men,  to  judge  for  themselves, 
in  the  disposal  of  property  which  has  fallen  into  their 
hands.  They  are  responsible,  they  only,  to  their  own 
consciences  ;  and  the  community  have  no  other  right 
than  to  see  that  no  illegal  or  immoral  appropriation  is 
made  of  it.     Adieu. 


LETTER   CI. 

London,  IStli  August,  1845. 
My  Dear  A : 

I  HAVE  a  few  spare  moments  in  a  shop  in  Regent 
Street,  and  these  shall  be  given  to  you.  Now,  that  my 
despatches  are  actually  on  their  way,  I  begin  to  respire 
a  little  more  freely. 

You  have  been  roasting  in  America ;  we  have  been 
freezing  here.  I  wish  you  would  bottle  up  a  little  of 
your  caloric  and  transmit  it  with  all  haste,  that  we  may 
have  some  bread  to  eat,  and  feel  that  it  is  really  August 
instead  of  November,  as  it  would  seem.  We  have  had 
but  one  fortnight  of  wami  weather,  and  I  sleep  under  as 
many  blankets   as  I  did  in   January.      How   my  heart 


344         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

burns  with  desire  to  see  you  and  yours.  My  spirits 
often  sink  far  below  zero  at  the  thought  of  how  long  it 
may  yet  be  before  I  have  that  happiness. 

I  do  not  remember  what  I  last  wrote  to  you,  but  I  think 
that  since  the  last  packet  I  have  witnessed  the  proroga- 
tion of  Parliament,  seen  the  sovereign,  the  great  officers 
of  state,  the  assembled  nobles  and  princes,  peers  and 
peeresses  of  the  kingdom,  in  all  of  earthly  glory  which 
wealth  and  art  and  taste  can  command,  and  heard  the 
speech  from  the  throne.  If  I  should  speak  of  it  as 
many  do,  I  should  pronounce  it  all  mere  child's  play 
—  the  Parliament  house  a  large  baby  house  —  the 
Queen  a  doll,  and  the  peers  and  peeresses,  in  their 
feathers  and  jewels,  at  a  child's  ball.  But  there  is  a 
different  view  to  be  taken  of  it.  The  show  was  ex- 
tremely beautiful,  and  there  was  a  moral  sublimity  about 
it,  which  much  affected  me.  This  little  woman  holds 
the  sovereignty  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  millions  of 
human  beings ;  extends  her  power  into  all  parts  of  the 
civilized  globe  ;  the  sun  never  sets  upon  her  dominions  ; 
her  ships,  as  birds  of  the  ocean,  dot  the  equatorial 
regions  all  over  like  flakes  of  snow  on  a  green  field, 
and  penetrate  into  the  terrific  regions  of  perpetual  frost, 
where  animal  life  is  all  but  extinct.  She  holds  the 
power  of  life  and  death,  the  great  questions  of  war  and 
peace,  is  the  most  active  instrument  in  the  civilization 
of  the  world,  and  embodies  in  her  own  person  a  domin- 
ion, perhaps  more  extensive  and  brilliant  than  was  ever 
swayed  before  by  human  hands.  Here  were  learned 
and  grave  judges  doing  homage  to  this  sovereignty,  peers 
and  nobles  kneeling  before  her  in  token  of  obedience, 
and   much   of  the  wealth   and  talent  and   activity  and 


I 


LETTER    CII.  345 

power  and  learning  of  the  kingdom  crowding  around  the 
bar,  which  kept  them  at  a  respectful  distance,  and  list- 
ening in  breathless  silence  to  the  words  of  this  personi- 
fication of  political  grandeur  and  power.  But  I  have 
no  time  to  moralize.  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  get  a 
lady's  ticket,  as  well  as  one  for  myself,  and  of  gratifying 
Miss  Joy  with  the  opportunity  of  being  present  under 
my  escort. 

I  have  been  at  the  opera  four  times  this  winter,  by 
invitation,  for  I  have  no  guineas  to  throw  away,  and  last 
week  went  with  Lady  Molesworth,  whose  daughter  holds 
a  very  high  place  in  my  regard  for  her  agreeable  man- 
ners and  her  bright  mind.  The  music,  the  scenery,  the 
singing,  the  dancing,  within  certain  limits,  were  mag- 
nificent and  delightful.  I  have  a  large  ideality,  you 
know,  and  therefore  enjoyed  it. 

You  are  very  coy  about  writing.  I  wish  this  letter 
was  worth  one  farthing,  but  I  know  it  is  not,  excepting 
as  it  assures  you  that  I  am — Yours  ever. 


LETTER   CII; 

London,  18th  August,  1845. 
My  Dear  M : 

I  DO  not  know  that  I  have  now  much  to  tell  you  that 
would  interest  you.  A  family,  in  which  I  have  been 
very  intimate,  have  just  lost  a  daughter,  one  of  the  most 
accomplished  and  delightful  young  women  I  ever  saw, 
and  for  whom  I  had  contracted  a  strong  friendship.  She 
was  about  thirty-three  years  old,  and  has  departed,  to  the 


346  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS.  . 

universal  grief  of  the  circle  in  which  she  moved.     Miss 

L ,  an  intimate  friend  both  of  hers  and  mine,  agreed 

with  me,  in  speaking  of  her  some  time  since,  before  her 
illness,  that  she  was  a  model  of  a  woman,  and,  within 
our  knowledge,  had  scarcely  her  superior.     Her  name 

was  R ,  the  daughter  of  a  merchant,  and  she  has 

died  of  some  internal  derangement,  after  severe  suffer- 
ing. It  is  not  customary  here  to  call  until  some  time 
after  the  death  ;  therefore,  though  I  have  left  my  card,  I 
have  not  yet  seen  the  family.  There  is  another  case 
which  interests  me  greatly.  One  of  the  young  women 
who  lived  as  an  apprentice  in  the  house  where  I 
lodged,  is  now  in  a  lingering  consumption,  and  I  visit 
her  as  often  as  I  can,  as  she  seems  always  most  happy 
to  see  me.  She  is  a  Catholic  by  religion,  and  about 
twenty-five  years  old.  I  scarcely  ever  saw  a  more  lovely 
person  ;  and  as  her  strength  fails,  her  countenance  be- 
comes more  radiant,  and  her  eyes  seem  to  have  a  celes- 
tial brightness.  She  is  entirely  destitute  ;  and  a  gentle- 
man who  has  heard  of  her  case,  but  does  not  choose  to 
be  known,  has  sent  her  five  pounds,  and  directed  a  friend 
not  to  let  her  want  for  any  thing.  Is  not  this  beautiful ! 
I  have  never  seen  a  brighter  example  of  the  power 
of  religious  faith  in  supporting  the  soul  in  the  near  pros- 
pect of  death,  and  under  its  certain  apprehension.  Her 
sister  devotes  herself  to  the  care  of  her,  and  the  good 
creature  told  me,  the  other  day,  that  they  had  but  one 
wish  ungratified,  and  that  was  that  I  could  be  of  the 
true  church.  She  should  then,  she  said,  die  happy.  I 
could  only  tell  her  not  to  make  herself  unhappy.  I  had 
no  doubt  that  she  would  go  to  Heaven,  and  if  for  no 
other  reason,  I  should   do  my  best  to  meet  her  there. 


LETTER      ClI.  347 

But  what  narrow  conceptions  of  the  goodness  and  wide 
providence  of  God  sometijnes  overcloud  the  best  minds. 
Her  sick  chamber  was  a  beautiful  school  of  patience, 
resignation,  faith,  and  hope  ;  and  homely  and  meanly 
furnished  as  it  was,  shone  with  a  moral  radiance  far 
brighter  than  that  which  glitters  in  many  a  princely 
saloon. 

I  was  much  interested  last  week  in  having  dropped 
in,  as  I  accidentally  passed  by,  at  the  Old  Bailey, 
(where,  whenever  I  choose  to  go,  I  have  a  seat  on  the 
bench  by  the  side  of  the  judges,)  at  the  time  of  the  trial 
of  a  poor  woman,  about  thirty  years  old,  who,  a  few 
days  since,  threw  her  three  children  into  the  Thames, 
two  of  whom  were  drowned,  and  was  about  to  plunge 
in  herself,  when  she  was  prevented.  She  was  driven 
to  desperation  by  the  brutal  conduct  of  a  profligate 
and  drunken  husband,  who  had  beaten  and  abused 
her.  The  jury,  to  every  body's  satisfaction,  brought 
her  in  not  guilty,  on  the  ground  of  insanity  at  the  time 
of  committing  the  act.  She  was  quite  a  pleasing  look- 
ing person,  but  seemed  entirely  stunned  with  her  sit- 
uation. 

The  records  of  crime,  most  frightful  and  enormous  in 
their  character,  which  the  papers  daily  present,  are  heart- 
sickening,  and  make  one  shudder.  They  insist  here 
that  they  are  not  out  of  proportion  to  the  population.  I 
am  afraid  it  is  far  otherwise,  and  society  seems  to  me 
much  out  of -joint,  and  where  our  Christianity  is,  it  would 
be  difficult  to  answer.  There  are  certainly  not  wanting 
the  forms  of  religion,  all  its  external  decencies  and  pro- 
fessions, on  all  occasions  loud  enough.  These  are  very 
little  to  my  taste.     The  value  of  the  tree  is  to  be  known, 


348         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

not  by  the  smoothness  of  the  bark  and  the  abundance 
of  its  leaves,  nor  the  beauty  of  its  flowering,  but  by  its 
actual  and  full-ripened  fruit. 

I  confess  I  have  no  great  complacency  in  what  the 
world  commonly  calls  religious  people,  or,  I  should  say, 
in  people  who  call  themselves  religious.  The  last  thing 
I  wish  a  friend  of  mine  to  do,  is  to  make  any  extrava- 
gant profession  of  religion.  I  like  that  men,  above  all 
things,  should  have  religion,  and  practise  rehgion,  and 
live  up  to  their  religion,  and  evince  its  supreme  influence 
over  their  tempers,  words,  manners,  and  whole  lives  and 
characters,  but  the  moment  a  man  begins  to  profess  re- 
ligion, I  begin but  I  won't  say  what.     Adieu. 


LETTER    cm. 

Matlock,  Derbyshire,  31st  August,  1845. 
My  Dear  M : 

It  makes  me  very  happy  to  find  you  enjoying  your- 
self so  much  in  the  countr}%  But  I  think  by  this  time 
you  must  be  roasted  quite  brown,  from  all  I  hear  of  the 
extraordinary  and  intense  heat  of  the  summer.  Here  it 
has  been  the  reverse.  Many  persons  speak  of  it  as  the 
coldest  summer  remembered.  I  think  their  memories 
must  be  short,  for  I  am  not  willing  to  call  it  cold,  but 
temperate,  healthful,  and  agreeable.  We  had,  for  a  long 
time,  rain  every  day,  but  for  the  last  week  it  has  been 
clear  and  warm,  and  what  is  almost  as  unusual  as  snow 
in  summer,  we  have  had  moonlight  and  starlight  nights, 


LETTER  cm.  349 

and  these  blessed  objects  showing  their  sparkling  coun- 
tenances to  us,  like  the  bright  faces  of  long  absent 
fi'iends.  ...... 

I  have  lately  made  a  visit  to  the  school  at  Norwood, 
of  a  thousand  pauper  children.  My  most  kind  and  in- 
defatigable friend,  Mrs.  Courage,  desired  that  the  first 
leisure  I  had,  I  should  let  her  show  me  that  institution, 
and,  above  all,  the  beautiful  and  highly  cultivated  coun- 
try in  its  neighborhood.  The  school  at  Norwood  is  de- 
signed for  the  reception  of  children  from  some  of  the 
poor-houses  in  the  city,  and  as  much  is  done  for  them, 
as,  perhaps,  can  be  done  for  children  whose  term  is  vari- 
able ;  but  it  was  sad  to  witness  the  melancholy  results 
of  ill-usage  or  neglect,  growing  out  of  poverty  or  vice, 
in  the  deformities,  the  stinted  growth,  and  the  diseased 
eyes  of  the  children. 

My  next  engagement,  a  most  agreeable  one,  was  at  din- 
ner, at  Mr.  Harcourt's,  M.  P.  Here  I  had  the  pleasure  to 
meet  several  members  of  the  government,  several  mem- 
bers of  parliament,  and  several  noblemen.  Our  invita- 
tions were  for  eight  o'clock ;  we  sat  down  about  half- 
past  eight.  Nothing  could  be  more  splendid  than  the 
entertainment. 

The  party  on  this  occasion,  as  I  have  said,  embraced 
several  gentlemen  of  distinction,  and  the  conversation 
was  in  a  high  degree  instructive  and  brilliant.  One  of 
the  gentlemen  near  me  chose  to  rally  me,  in  perfect 
good  humor,  upon  my  religious  opinions,  and  demanded 
what  religion  I  was  of.  My  reply  was,  that  I  was  of 
no  religion,  which  seemed  to  create  some  surprise  in  my 
neighborhood.  I  reminded  him,  however,  that  because 
I  said  I  was  of  no  religion,  it  did  not  imply  that  I  had 
30 


350  EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

no  religion,  but  in  this  matter  I  should  answer  nothing, 
holding  myself  accountable  only  to  a  far  higher  than  a 
human  tribunal,  and  that  religion,  in  my  opinion,  was 
much  too  lofty  and  sacred  a  subject  to  be  mixed  up 
with  party  distinctions  and  sectarian  prejudices,  or  any 
mere  forms  of  faith  or  ceremonies  of  worship. 

On  Wednesday  I  went  to  Croydon  to  see  a  farm, 
cultivated  in  a  peculiar  manner,  about  which  much  has 
been  said  and  written.  I  missed  seeing  the  owner,  but 
saw  the  farm,  and  to  great  advantage.  I  was  amused 
when  I  got  home,  late  in  the  evening,  in  recalling  the 
different  conveyances  by  which  I  had  accomplished  my 
journey.  I  went  four  miles  in  a  steamboat ;  five  miles 
in  an  omnibus  ;  twenty-two  miles  by  railroad  ;  and  I 
walked  fourteen  miles,  besides  walking  over  the  farm. 
This  might  be  called  getting  along  "  by  hook  and  by 
crook." 

An  old  and  highly  respected  friend.  Dr.  Robbins, 
from  Boston,  has  just  arrived,  and  I  have  had  the  pleas- 
ure of  showing  him  something  of  London  ;  and,  know- 
ing his  taste,  I  took  him  to  see  the  new  buildings,  the 
princely  squares,  the  terraces,  unrivalled  for  their  beauty 
and  magnificence,  and  then  over  the  busiest  parts  of  the 
city,  through  Hyde  Park,  round  St.  James's  Park,  over 
the  principal  bridges,  and  returned  to  his  lodgings  to 
dine  at  half-past  eight  o'clock.  I  never  saw  any  one 
more  astonished  and  delighted.  Indeed,  I  showed  him 
what  not  one  American  in  a  thousand  ever  sees,  and  I 
was  amply  repaid  by  the  pleasure  which  he  expressed. 
He  said  that  such  a  day  would  repay  many  times 
the  expense  and  trouble  of  crossing  the  ocean.  I  left 
him  about  eleven  o'clock  ;  but  did  not  get  away  with- 


LETTER    Clir.  351 

out  his  entreaty  that  I  would  go  on  witli  him,  as  his 
guest,  to  this  place  and  Chatsworth,  on  his  way  to 
Scotland.  I  promised  to  think  of  it,  and  yester- 
day morning  determined  that  I  would  join  him  at 
the  Euston  station,  and  visit  Chatsworth,  deemed  the 
most  magnificent  establishment  in  England,  stopping 
on  the  way  at  this  beautiful  watering  place,  which, 
excepting  that  it  has  had  its  face  washed  and  its  hair 
combed,  resembles  very  much  the  ride  to  Colerain 
and  Charlemont,  on  the  Dcerfield  river.  Mr.  and  Miss 
Joy  were  of  our  party,  and  we  four  had  the  coach  or 
car  to  ourselves,  and  it  seemed  to  me  like  getting  home 
again.  We  rode  by  rail  and  coach  one  hundred  and 
forty-eight  miles. 

To-day  I  have  attended  a  dissenting  congregation, 
where  I  heard  very  good  singing,  saw  a  humble,  but 
very  decent  people,  exceedingly  well-behaved,  and  heard 
a  very  flourishing  preacher,  delivering  himself  in  a  style 
which  I  do  not  choose  to  designate.  After  that  I  strolled 
off  to  see  my  friends,  the  Nightingales,  who  have  a  de- 
lightful summer  residence  in  this  neighborhood,  I  was 
told  about  three  miles  distant,  but  quite  five,  and  much 
of  it  up  hill.  They  are  some  of  the  best  and  most  cul- 
tivated people  in  England.  They  gave  me  a  hearty 
welcome,  and  begged  me  on  my  return  to  make  them  a 
visit,  but  I  cannot  do  it.  The  walk  was  perfectly  charm- 
ing, the  scenery  in  the  highest  degree  picturesque.  I 
could  not  help  thanking  God  all  the  way  that  he  had 
made  this  world  so  beautiful,  and  given  me  sense  to  en- 
joy it. 

I  go  from  here  to-morrow  with  our  party  fifteen  miles 


352  EUftOPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

to  see  Chatsworth ;  thence  to  reach  the  rail,  where  we 
separate,  he  for  Scotland,  and  I  return  to  my  home.  I 
think,  as  I  am  in  the  neighborhood,  I  shall  take  one  day 
to  see  Lady  Byron's  allotments,  in  Leicestershire,  on 
my  way,  as  she  has  kindly  invited  me  to  see  them,  and 
provided  lodgings  for  me  two  months  ago,  to  occupy  as 
long  as  I  would  stay.  She  devotes  much  of  her  time 
and  wealth  to  the  improvement  of  the  condition  of  her 
poor  dependents,  and  no  one  can  be  more  benevolently 
interested  in  their  welfare. 

I  came  home  one  day  last  week  and  found  a  letter 
from  a  lady,  a  Quaker,  I  infer  from  its  style.  She  says 
she  has  a  great  desire  to  see  me  ;  has  been  at  56  Char- 
ing Cross,  and  came  out  to  Islington  ;  and  if  I  will  fix 
a  time  she  will  come  to  London  from  Chelmsford,  which, 
I  understand,  is  thirty  or  forty  miles,  for  that  purpose  ; 
and  that  she  has  vacant  apartments  in  Paris  at  my  ser- 
vice, which  she  wishes  me  to  occupy  when  I  go  there. 
She  says  she  has  known  me  through  my  friend,  Eliza- 
beth Pease,  of  Darlington,  a  most  excellent  person. 
What  is  the  object  of  this  good  lady  ?  People  here  are 
not  quite  so  flill  of  projects  as  with  us.  It  does  not  at 
all  belong  to  the  English  character.  But,  as  the  French 
say,  we  shall  see,  and  I  promise  you  an  account  of  the 
denouement.     Adieu. 


LETTER    CIV.  353 

LETTER    CIV. 

London,  Isl  September,  1845. 
My  Dear  R : 

You  know,  so  far  as  numbers  go,  you  are  quite  in  my 
debt,  and  I  hope  you  won't  bind  me  to  the  hard  rule  of 
receiving  quahty  for  number.  But  now  put  on  your 
usual  kindness,  and  don't  be  so  very  sparing  of  your 
letters  when  it  costs  you  nothing  to  write,  and  your  let- 
ters always  give  me  so  much  pleasure. 

I  should  like  to  know  what  you  are  about  now  in 
Salem.  I  am  reminded  of  Salem  whenever  I  go  down 
the  Strand,  by  the  sign  of  the  VVenham  Lake  Ice  Com- 
pany, and  a  large  block  of  ice  which  appears  at  the 
window.  In  passing  the  shop,  the  other  day,  on  the 
box  of  an  omnibus,  I  heard  a  very  well-dressed  person, 
who  sat  on  the  other  side  of  the  driver,  gravely  inform 
him  that  this  ice  came  from  the  West  Indies  ;  very  mar- 
vellous geographical  knowledge  1  This  block  of  ice  is 
about  eighteen  inches  square,  and  about  twelve  thick. 
The  Londoners  look  upon  it  with  amazement.  I  am 
told  they  sometimes  go  into  the  shop  after  gazing  through 
the  window,  and  put  their  hands  on  it,  to  be  sure  that  it 
is  not  glass.  Many  consider  it,  likewise,  a  sort  of  stand- 
ing miracle,  for  they  don't  see  that  it  diminishes,  not 
having  a  suspicion  that  the  cunning  Connecticut  Yankee 
who  exhibits  it,  takes  a  new  piece  out  of  the  refrigerator 
every  morning.  But  enough  of  this.  I  think  it  would 
be  of  service  to  put  some  of  your  ministers  in  a  refrige- 
rator or  an  ice  house.  What  has  kindled  all  this  new 
30* 


354        EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

heat  and  set  them  to  devouring  each  other,  and  aroused 
a  spirit  of  persecution  towards  some  of  their  brethren 
which  seems  to  me  wholly  irreconcilable  with  Christian- 
ity ?  If  a  man  is  a  heretic  let  him  go,  or  you  will  be 
sure  to  give  influence  to  him  and  currency  to  his  opinions. 
They  think  to  stop  the  progress  of  free  opinions  and 
free  inquiry  by  crying  mad  dog,  when  the  whole  effect 
is  to  send  everybody  to  the  windows  and  doors  to  see 
which  way  the  mad  dog  went ;  and  to  inquire  whose 
dog  he  is  and  what  made  him  mad,  and,  above  all, 
whether  he  was  really  mad,  or  whether  people  only  said  so. 
These  people  seem  to  think  if  they  only  hold  up  their 
umbrella  before  the  sun,  they  keep  its  light  from  every- 
body else,  whereas,  the  only  effect  is,  to  keep  themselves 
in  the  dark.  I  was  much  amused,  the  other  Sunday, 
on  hearing  what  we  Englishmen  call  one  of  the  clever- 
est men  in  London,  say,  in  his  sermon,  what  a  capital 
thing  it  would  be  if  we  could  now  "  catch  a  live  apos- 
tle ;  "  and  what  a  variety  of  sects  would  come  to  him  to 
settle  their  controversies.  There  would  be  the  Baptists, 
the  Anabaptists,  the  Pedobaptists,  the  Antipedobap- 
tists,  those  who  baptized  by  sprinkling,  those  who  bap- 
tized by  immersion,  those  who  hold  it  necessary  to  im- 
merse three  times,  those  who  hold  that  holy  oil  must  be 
used  as  well  as  water,  and  those  who  hold  that  no  bap- 
tism is  valid  unless  performed  with  the  sign  of  the  cross, 
Stc,  &£c. ;  and  then  if  the  apostle  gave  his  decision,  they 
would  get  into  a  dispute  about  the  meaning  of  his  lan- 
guage ;  and  if  his  language  was  so  direct  and  explicit 
that  it  could  not  be  misunderstood,  then  those  against 
whose  opinions  he  decided  would  insist  upon  it  that  they 
had  got  the  wrong  apostle.     What  a  true  picture  of  the 


LETTER    CV.  355 

frivolous  disputes  which  continually  prevail  among  peo- 
ple who  ought  to  know  that  they  know  nothing,  or  at 
least  far  too  little  for  them  to  undertake  the  control  of 
other  people's  reason  and  consciences.     Adieu. 


LETTER    CV. 

London,  17Ui  September,  1845. 
My  Dear  R : 

In  spite  of  all  your  silence  and  neglect,  I  do  not  mean 
to  be  moved  ;  and,  therefore,  venture  once  more  to  have 
a  few  words  with  you.  What  are  you  doing  ?  How 
many  children  have  you  now  under  your  patronage  ?  and 
how  do  the  religious  affairs  of  Salem  go  on  under  your 
active  superintendence  ?  How  is  hydropathy  ;  how  is 
mesmerism  ;  how  is  your  favorite  subject,  abolitionism  ? 
Here  we  have  every  thing,  and  here  we  have  nothing. 
A  man  here  believes  what  he  pleases  ;  says  what  he 
has  to  say  ;  does  what  he  chooses  to  do ;  and  has  all 
the  liberty,  without  censure,  without  surveillance,  which 
a  rational  man  can  desire,  provided  he  keeps  out  of  the 
hands  of  the  police.  Here  nobody  is  of  any  importance  ; 
and  the  proudest  man  only  floats  upon  society  like  a 
cork  upon  the  rapids  of  Niagara,  sure  to  be  hurried  along  ; 
sure,  presently,  to  go  over,  and  as  sure  not  to  be  thought 
of  or  cared  for  after  he  has  gone  over.  Every  man  is 
for  himself,  and  if  he  does  not  take  care  of  himself,  there 
is  nobody  will  take- care  of  him.  It  is  not  that  persons 
here  are  more  selfish  than  others  ;  but,  really,  no  one  has 
any  time  to  spend  upon  the  affairs  of  other  men.     In 


356  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

the  busy  season  the  streets  of  London  present  a  sort  of 
Waterloo  rout  —  "save  himself  who  can  ;" — saunter, 
and  you  '11  be  run  down  ;  fall  down,  and  you  '11  be  run 
over.  Sometimes  I  have  thought  that  a  man  might  walk 
from  the  Exchange  to  Charing  Cross,  two  miles,  through 
the  busiest  and  most  crowded  part  of  London,  and  at  the 
busiest  time  of  day,  with  nothing  else  on  than  Adam's 
cast-off  paradisaical  suit,  and  he  would  not  be  noticed 
farther  than  that  some  hasty  passenger  might  venture  to 
remark,  en  passant,  "  that  is  a  queer  fellow  ;  what  tailor 
made  his  dress  ? "  So,  too,  the  Queen  might  die  to- 
morrow ;  her  body  would  not  be  cold  before  her  succes- 
sor must  be  found  ;  and  a  few  tolling  bells,  a  few  muf- 
fled drums,  and  a  few  glittering  swords  and  nodding 
plumes,  and  the  world  would  go  on  precisely  as  it  was 
going  before.  This  is  a  humiliating  but  an  instructive 
lesson,  and  a  most  wholesome  extinguisher  of  all  pride, 
if  pride  in  man  can  be  extinguished  unless  the  candle  of 
life  be  snuffed  out  at  the  same  time.  What  comes  of  all 
this  ?  What  composes  this  mighty,  moving  mass  ?  Many 
aching  limbs ;  many  heated  and  burning  brains  ;  many 
agonized  hearts  ;  wealth  beyond  the  dreams  of  the  Ara- 
bian Nights  ;  luxury  as  brilliant  as  gold  and  silver  and 
diamonds,  and  human  art  and  labor  can  make  it ;  indul- 
gence without  restraint ;  destitution  complete  ;  poverty 
extreme  ;  wretchedness,  vice,  and  suffering  unmitigated, 
and  absolutely  hopeless.  What  a  picture  of  life  !  Who 
can  unravel  this  web  and  draw  the  threads  straight  ? 
What  shall  settle  this  turbid  cauldron,  and  cause  the 
waters  to  become  clear  ?  Alas  !  no  human  power  or 
sagacity  can  even  approach  the  task  ;  and  man,  standing 
upon  the  shore  of  the  mighty  ocean,  may  think  as  well 


LETTER    CV.  357 

to  assuage  its  tempests  by  his  breath,  and  stay  its  rising 
tides  at  his  command,  and  sniooth  its  broken  surface 
with  the  palm  of  his  hand.  Yet  what  is  to  come  of  this 
great  city  ?  It  is  growing  at  this  very  hour  much  faster 
than  ever.  Thousands  and  thousands  of  houses  are  in 
the  process  of  erection,  and  thousands  and  thousands  are 
being  born  to  fill  them.  Rome  had  her  six  millions  of 
inhabitants ;  London  has  as  yet  but  two.  What  is  to 
prevent  her  having  twenty,  unless,  as  it  was  the  last 
feather  that  broke  the  camel's  back,  so,  presently,  it 
would  seem,  that  she  must  be  crushed  by  her  own  weight. 
Yesterday,  by  invitation,  I  attended  the  sessions  at 
the  Old  Bailey,  took  my  seat  on  the  Bench  of  Justice, 
(so  called,)  and  watched  the  affecting  sight  of  hundreds 
of  prisoners  being  arraigned  and  tried,  and  saw  many  of 
them  sentenced  —  children,  women,  and  men  —  some 
to  a  month's  imprisonment,  with  hard  labor,  some  twelve 
months',  some  two  years',  many  to  be  transported  for 
seven  years,  and  many  for  life  ;  and  all  this  was  done  with 
as  much  indifference  and  sang  froid  as  a  butcher  in  Cin- 
cinnati would  get  into  his  pen  of  swine  and  knock  down 
his  victims  by  dozens.  My  feelings  were  much  too  big 
for  utterance,  and  I  could  not  but  think  that  the  poisoned 
chalice  must  presently  come  to  some  lips,  who  now  so 
harshly  force  it  upon  others,  and  that  the  curse  cannot 
be  light,  which  must,  sooner  or  later,  fall  upon  a  heart 
steeled  against  all  compassion,  and  pitiless  and  indifferent 
to  the  temptations  and  sufferings  of  the  poor,  friendless, 
injured,  and  often  betrayed,  as  well  as  unfortunate.  The 
judge,  again  and  again,  passed  dreadful  and  heart-rending 
sentences  upon  some  wretched  boy,  or  some  poor,  miser- 
able, affrighted  woman  ;  and,  after  telling  them,  in  the 


358  EUROPEAN    LIFE    AND    MANNERS. 

harshest  manner,  that  they  might  congratulate  themselves 
upon  escaping  so  lightly,  turn  round  and  laugh  heartily 
at  the  concern  of  the  compassionate  aldemian,  who  sat 
at  his  side  and  did  what  he  could  to  stay  his  violence, 
and  at  the  surprise  and  anguish  of  the  poor  convicts.* 
I  wish   I  had  something  pleasanter  to  write  about. 

Do    give    me    the    news What 

have  you  to  say  about  ecclesiastical  matters  ?  What 
is  the  last  new  doctrine  broached  ?  How  stands  Par- 
kerism  ?  Now  put,  as  we  say,  the  best  foot  forward, 
if  one  foot  is  better  than  another,  and  let  me  know 
the  whole  course  of  things  in  S .     Adieu. 

*  "  A  girl  of  thirteen  years  brought  to  receive  judgment  for  theft.  She 
had  been  prosecuted  upon  the  complaint  of  her  father. 

"  Sergeant  Adams  ordered  the  girl  to  recognize  for  her  appearance  at  a 
future  Mme."  —  Times,  March  2dth,  1847. 

Experience  had  taught  him  to  know  how  often  it  happened,  that  parents 
contrived  to  induce  their  children  to  commit  crimes,  in  order  to  throw  them 
upon  the  state  for  support,  and  thus  relieve  themselves  from  the  cost  of  their 
maintenance,  and  from  the  care  of  their  bringing  up,  and  eventual  introduc- 
tion to  well  doing  in  life. 

A  few  days  since,  he  had  four  cases,  where  the  parents  had  endeavored 
to  rid  themselves  of  the  natural  burden  of  their  children,  by  prosecuting 
them,  and,  at  the  last  .«es.sion,  there  had  been  clear  ground  for  suspicion, 
that,  in  one  case,  money  had  been  intentionally  placed  in  the  way  of  the  lad 
by  his  parents.  Thus  the  parents  were  relieved  from  the  care  of  their 
children. 


LETTER    CVI.  359 


LETTER  CVI. 

Loiulon,  14th  October,  1S45. 
My  Dkar  M : 

I  WRITE  you  SO  often,  that  really  my  materiel  is  quite 
scarce,  and  you  must  often  put  up  with  very  short  com- 
mons. I  have  lately  been  reading  the  life  of  Blanco 
White,  in  which  I  have  been  much  interested  ;  but  I 
refer  to  it  principally,  at  this  time,  for  the  sake  of  quot- 
ing a  passage  from  a  letter  addressed  to  him  by  Mrs. 
Hemans,  which  I  have  read  more  than  once,  I'll  assure 
you,  and  with  no  small  sympathy  : 

"  I  have  now  been  settled  about  six  months  near 
Liverpool,  and  though  I  meet  with  much  kindness,  and 
have  even  attached  myself  to  some  individuals,  whose 
society  interests  me,  still,  you  will  understand  all  those 
undefined  longings  for  the  streams  and  the  mountains  of 
my  childhood ;  sudden  pictures,  flashing  before  the 
mind's  eye  —  remembered  sounds,  that  come  and  go,  and 
waken  the  heart  to  gushings  of  painful  tenderness, — 
all  these  exile  feelings,  in  short,  by  which  I  am  but  too 
frequently  visited.  Such  things,  I  suppose,  must  be,  in 
all  deep  and  severed  hearts,  until  the  '  better  country, 
even  the  heavenly,'  shall  be  reached,  where  there  is  '  no 
variableness,  neither  shadow  of  change.'  " 

I  long  to  return  home.  I  long  to  see  you,  the  children, 
other  friends,  oftentimes  and  constantly,  with  an  intensity 
for  which  I  have  no  words.  But  I  think,  at  present,  I 
am   in    the   way  of   my   duty,  and   must  rest  content. 


360         EUROPEAN  LIFE  AND  MANNERS. 

P.  S.  There  is  another  passage,  in  one  of  Blanco 
White's  own  letters  to  a  friend,  which,  I  think,  will 
amuse  you,  —  so  I  'II  quote  that,  also,  as  I  have  a  little 
spare  room  : 

"  So  Campbell  is  again  in  the  heyday  of  youth.  I 
never  doubted  he  would  marry,  a  second  wife.  The 
expected  house-warming  must  be  preparatory  to  that 
event.  But  I  much  doubt  whether,  at  his  time  of  life, 
a  new  wife  can  make  a  man  happy.  An  old  one,  I  hold 
to  be  a  great  comfort ;  and  it  is  a  subject  of  regret  to  me, 
that  I  have  not  had  the  pleasure  of  growing  a  sexagena- 
rian in  company.  But  to  take  up  a  blooming  partner 
at  fifty,  or  to  form  a  partnership  of  rheumatism,  cough, 
and  hobbling,  with  a  ripe  beauty,  are  follies  of  nearly 
equal  absurdity." 


END    OF    VOLUME    I. 


University  of  California 

SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 

305  De  Neve  Drive  -  Parking  Lot  17  •  Box  951388 

LOS  ANGELES,  CALIFORNIA  90095-1388 

Return  this  material  to  the  library  from  which  it  was  borrowed 


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